I was out shooting my new Kimber and I had to shoot a couple of other guns to let her cool. Anyway my extreme weather 300 wsm was shooting 3 inch groups and I just didn't get it. I pulled on the front mount and could feel a little movement. When I got home I pulled the scope to find the front base was loose by more than two turns on each screw (it rattled around once I got the scope off). I cranked them back down tight and got a little more turn on both of the rear base screws. I'm really looking forward to shooting this gun again as I'm not sure how long it has been this way. I was really struggling with some weird groups this summer and the base being loose is something that I just didn't expect as I'm usually guilty of over tightening them. I still like the talley lightweights but I guess I will have to pay a little more attention to errant groups. I had a shift in impact at 400 yards but I figured it must have been from separating the stock from the action. I missed a cow elk at 320 yards and now I scratch my head as to whether it was the gun the cross wind or both.

Do you use lock-tite on the screws? If not, I strongly recommend removing them, and redo-ing with lock-tite.

+1

No I didn't but I probably should consider it. Which color do you use?

Blue...

I do loc tite and JB weld.

My bases ain't going anywhere..

blue

If I had a rifle that had a tendency shake mounts loose I'd use blue locktite on the screws and JB Weld between the bases and the reciever. Sory to copy you Rancho I was writing when you posted.

What you fellas shooting that you have to use JB Weld to hold the bases on?

Rifles that won't have bases come loose..

Loc-tite seems a little extreme but do what gives you confidence.
I use 30 inch/lbs. on the base screws and 15 inch/lbs on the cap screws. Never any problems with a dozen setup this way with Talley LW's. Good luck.

By the way, make sure you degrease the base mounting holes in the action and the screw threads for bases and cap screws. A little lacquer thinner works well.

Never tried JB weld on the bases or rings myself but I was just about ready to do that with my Winchester model 100 the other day. I used the red loctite on the crossbolt nut because it kept wanting to loosen up. The blue was good enough for all the smaller screws. It's amazing how much your groups start falling apart when chit starts loosening up!!!!! That semi-auto just rattled them lose like an impact wrench

Get a T-15 torx head screwdriver and crank the bases "farmer tight."

Blue locktite also works.

The aluminum Talley LW's cranked on the Leupies will put a dent in the tube bodies. Just so you realize that.

Never dented a tube, but I did tighten a rear ring on a Leupy 3-9x40 tight enough that it made it difficult to twist the power ring.

But, on bases, I don't see any harm in cranking them down.

I have had NO problems w/these mounts, not breaking, loosening, etc.

That said, I read something tdy by a custom scope base/ring mfg.

One thing on their website -

"Titanium has a very low coefficient of thermal expansion, so point of impact shifts will not occur due to scope base growth under varying temperature conditions. (Severe problem with aluminum bases)"


I have no doubt the mfg. makes fine products, the statement begs the question, but how much is marketing hype vs. real concerns, I don't know.

I concur with the Blue LocTite.I wouldn't(can't)see the need for anything further.
I thought you were refering to the damage they do to scopes.Tally LW are sleek and light but be prepared to see Tally bites on your tubes.

those talley light weights should really be lapped in too.

That's an OTT problem. (Other Than Talley.)

The base screws could be a bit too long & bottoming out, also, giving you a false sense of torque on the screws. They may just be snug against the base, yet tight as heck in the bottom of the hole. I had this issue with a set. It seemed like they were tight, but not really. Something to check. It drove me nuts 'till Karnis figured it out.

I've found that to be very important.

Yep, had that issue with my M70. The most forward screw was bottoming out on the barrel thread, which caused it to strip. Cutting another screw down to size took care of that.
And as Waders said, farmer tight widda T-15 torx head screwdriver.

kinda tough to blame talley if you did not get the screws tight. I see it as installer error. I am not trying to be a dick, but for some guy skimming the net, he is going to see this and think they are no good. I actually think they one of the few great things to happen to gun that benefit light weight rifles.

my two percent of one dollar.

High country I don't disagree with your installer error assessment and didn't mean to rip on On Talley per se other than to point out a problem I was having. I think other scope mount designs would have shown the problem sooner because they aren't one piece. I realize now that I didn't degrease the holes and didn't use locktite. I have run 3 sets of talleys now and this is the first problem. I also have never gotten the talley bite on my conquest scopes as some have mentioned.

BigBuck,

If you over tightening the bases, it's seems possible to me that you may be actually stretching the screws and not really getting them as tight as you'd think. In a conversation with Leupold custom service, a few years ago, I asked what is the torque spec. They told me "15-20 in. lbs... No more than 20!" Since then I have adhered to that. I do, however; use PURPLE Loc-tite. Purple is for small screws. I've never had one come loose... I figure there is a torque spec for a reason.
GH

Careful, I once partially stripped threads in a soft bridge doing that. Locktite (blue), remaining threads, and a "Doh!" forehead slap have held the base in place for years now. In my (really, really weak) defense the screw was too short.

Blue works if you're lazy and don't degrease the threads and screw thoroughly. Never had to use heat to back one out, just a GOOD screwdriver carefully.

Also anything on the threads, grease, oil, thread locker, decreases friction so less torque is needed for the same "set." Another reason to go easy.

Thank you Mr. Grasshopper, wish you posted more Kimber info here but understand your reluctance.
Anyway, if you are getting the Talley "bite", you are cranking the cap screws too tight. Plus, there is supposed to be a gap between the upper and lower ring. If you have NO gap, you are crushing the scope tube.
Gary and Chris from Talley recommend 17 inch/lbs.. They also say you CAN lap but very lightly. These aren't Ruger rings (my comment)!!!
Save yourself some error and grief, people. Buy an inch/pound torque wrench from your favorite supply house. Use it for the action screws, base screws and cap screws. "Farmer tight" depends on who the farmer is!

Personally I have not had an issue and I do not use any color Loctite. That was with 338's and wizzums. Not saying it won't happen. Don't forget a drop of fingernail polish used to be the norm also.

I use red. If you want to remove the screws, hold a soldering iron on the screw heads for about a minute and the screws come right out.

I tension all my base screws to about 30-35"-lbs, with some nail polish hardener(steal ya wifes. I did . Diamond dust gear is the best, grin ) on the threads before hand.
An old gunsmith taught me this some time back. Better than LT IMO too. Used both!
The polish when set dries hard, & when one wants to remove it, you will hear the snap crack that tight seal makes. Great technique.

Degreasing is not part of the problem. Where torque really matters you want a lubricant so you are getting a true torque reading. Dry threads can "dry seize" and give a full torque reading prematurely. Not that this likely matters for scope bases but if you think greased threads are more likely to come loose that is wrong.