Hi, Gentlemen, I'm a longtime lurker/recent joiner with a question re: my Rem. N.A.Custom in '.06. It does not achieve the M.O.A. guarantee...close, but no load yet has done better than roughly 1.5", (factory or handloads). Come to discover it has a raised, V-shaped channel molded into the stock at the end of the forend to provide a contact point there. While I'm obviously familiar with the concept, I've never owned a Remington before (lifelong Sako guy), and I always thought they shot better completely free floated as one sees in the military Remingtons, A.I. products, etc. Torquing the guard screws to different levels of ft. lbs. doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Input from long time Remmy shooters?

Stay with SAKO. Remington QC has gotten so bad. Last 700 my smith was trying to rebarrel had the action threads 6 degrees off set (tilted) to the left of center. You'll never see that in a SAKO (or Tikka).

Never say never friend, Sako's or Tikka's ain't perfect either..............Hb

valhallabound, first Welcome to the Fire. Remove those two "speed bumps" in the stock to free float the barrel. See how it shoots then. Werks for many

g

Ah yes, all you have to do is mention Remington and there's always some drooler to make a pointless comment where he parrots something he read on his mommie's 'puter.
I have found that free floating is not always the straight road to Jerusalem that some would have you believe. I still have the pressure point in most of my Remingtons. They are sometimes sensitive to how much pressure. Try putting a biz card between the pressure point and the barrel and see if that helps. If you want to try free floating it, before you go hogging out the barrel channel, try this: using biz cards, punch some holes in them and use them for shims. Put them between on the action screws between the stock and the action. You may need a couple (or more) on each screw. This will lift the action out of the stock (free floating it) Do the dollar bill trick to make sure the barrel is free from the forearm. Tighten things down and try some shots this way.
By the way, have you checked to make sure the forearm is not touching the barrel at any point other than the pressure point? Have your taken the rifle apart for a through cleaning to make sure there are no errant wood or metal chips floating around?
What loads have you tried so far?

Valhallabound,

Welcome!

A few years back I bought two identical Rem 700 CDL SF Limited's in 260 Rem. One for me and one for my daughter. I had mine's trigger touched up, free floated, glass and pillar bedded and the crown just kissed to clean up any burrs.

It is easily the most accurate factory rifle I've ever owned with around 15 different loads that will go MOA and much better.

My daughter, "I" touched up the trigger and removed the two bumps up near the front end. The rifle did not shoot as accurately as the first.

Do what you will with this info; just saying.

Alan

Thanks for the warm welcome, everybody! A lot of good input re: the alchemy of trying to diagnose this thing, although for what it cost it's a shame I have to do anything to it! I'll play around some more, maybe use some of stillbeeman's tips and see what I come up with.

The tariff on a remington is getting ridiculously high, so I agree, for the dollars you spend, it shouldn't need too much. The guys that spend a grand for a Kimber and then have to go to work on it are even sicker.

I agree, this is some sad chit! not all Kimbers are dog's I'm sure but there are many according to the stories I read on the campfire....................Hb