Anybody else been having ejection issues with there Cooper rifles? My Jackson Hunter in 25-06 is on its third trip to Cooper, in the process of getting it changed to the new ejection system that they are using now, but they are trying to charge me. Will let yall know the outcome!

Thanks
HeavyBarrel

None that I've had with my Excalibur in 280AI. Approx 100 rounds so far..

Great rifles for sure, but there customer service is in question at the moment! Sure don't want to bash them if they make it right!

HeavyBarrel

Never had any Issues with my 52 Classic in .280 Rem.

It has performed flawlessly thus far.

Hope they take care of you.

I got my model 54 in 260 a few months ago and had problems with nosler custom ammo in it. The bolt lift was heavy and the shell would get stuck in the extractor. Sent the ammo and fired shells to Nosler and they said the ammo was to hot for the cooper rifle and my money was refunded. I was glad it was not the gun. I changed ammo and everyting is great.

Do those of yall who have Model 52's have brass marks on the exterior of the reciever, where the spent brass kicks around and hits behind the ejection port, leaving brass tik marks?

Also for those that have Model 52's, what mounts are you using? Had trouble with Warne Base/low Leupold ring combo. Brass was contacting my windage turret cap.

Thanks
HeavyBarrel

I am using low leupold's with a VX3 4.5x14x40 on mine.

No, I have not noticed brass "tik" marks.

Shooting Nosler Custom Brass, 140 gr Accubonds, and 55.5gr of RL-19.

Rifle on bottom....

CallaoJoe

Is your rifle fairly new? If so it prob has the new ejector. If so, that is good news that it is working properly. That is what they are doing with mine, installing a new bolt with the new style ejection system. My rifle is a four year old M52 Jackson Hunter, unsure when they switched to the new style but it was sometime between now and then? I am using the same scope, but the bases I was using were the Warne picatinny style, with Leupold (I think PRW) rings. I since switched to Talley low integral aluminums.

HeavyBarrel

Very nice rifle! by the way

HeavyBarrel

Serial number is right under 10K, if that helps. 9xxx

I bought the rifle, in 2010.

I mostly use Talley's like that these days....

Both my .260 and .35 Whelen Rem700's have talleys, and I love them.

Interesting! In reading your posts, if I understand them correctly the rifle is ejecting okay but the issue is that when the brass is ejected it is kicking the brass out in such a manner that it hits the rear receiver ring which leaves a brass "tick" that you don't like.

Is your bolt the older style with the blade ejector instead of the new style with the plunger ejector? If it is a blade ejector, is the "kick-back" related to the force that the bolt handle is withdrawn, or does the brass kick-back and hit the rear receiver regardless of the enthusiasm on the bolt handle?

With 25-06 length brass and using Warne mounts and low Leupold rings I can see where there may be a real possibilty of hitting the scope windage knob. Have you tried medium height rings? A simple solution is to turn your scope 90 degrees CCW so that the elevation knob is now the windage know and the windage knob is the elevation knob. I seen this done on other rifles when the brass hit the windage knob because of low scope mounts.


drover

drover

Blade style extracter, they are installing the plunger style. Did not really check on wether the amount of force made a difference, just noticed the marks on the reciever, and then figured out that the cases were hitting. I was not overly forcing the bolt back as I was catching my brass while shooting off the bench.

Since I have switched to the low Talleys, the issue of brass hitting turret has been cured. The low Talleys are a little higher than the Warne/Leupold combo.

HeavyBarrel

My model 54 which has the plunger type ejector leaves the brass "tick" mark on the rear receiver ring also. I have never thought of it as a problem, I just clean it off when I clean the rest of the rifle. I certainly don't consider it so much of an issue that I would want them to do a bolt change on it, especially when the issue may still be there.

I suspect that it could be cured by shortening the ejector spring so that it is a bit weaker but I prefer the positive ejection that it has now. You may find that after the bolt change you still have the "tick" marks on the rear receiver ring.

drover

Have owned my 52 22 Classic for almost ten years and approaching a thousand rounds, not a single hiccup.

drover

Was informed that it would fix the brass mark, and if it didnt, he would send it back free of any charges. Guess the tick dosnt hurt the function of the rifle, just never had one do it, and dang sure dont want my $1600 dollar rifle doing it.

How do you clean the brass ticks off? I tried rubbing pretty hard with copper solvent and couldnt budge them.

HeavyBarrel

RDW

No brass marks???

HeavyBarrel

Not that I have seen.

Put a drop of oil on the brass mark and gently give a few rubs with 0000 (super fine) steel wool. It does not damage the bluing and easily removes the marks. Hint - This also works to remove light surface rust from blued steel.

drover

I bought my Excalibur last June and it has Leupold bases, medium rings and a 3.5-10 VX3 on it.