I've never accurized a Browning BAR. My usual prep of free floating the stock is mute on a BAR.

Is the BAR sensitive to torque on the forend screw? Are there any aftermarket trigger options?

I've loaded for several 243 bolt guns so I've got lots of bullet / powder options. Where should I start with loads since seating depth is going to be an issue?

Think the twist is a 1 in 9 1/4". Guessing that would be fast enough to stabilize 95 gr bullets.

Midway should be delivering small base 243 dies.

What am I missing / any tips ?

I've owned several of them and none of mine needed "accurizing".

A 1" auto loader is about as good as it gets with that platform.

Mine will only take medium powders...

It was a bear to get right

Snake

I don't usually load for top end velocities, my stuff is pretty middle of the road, so I may have dodged that one.

Factory stuff would consistently go 1.25" to 1.5" in mine.

Float the forearm. Medium speed reloads or Federal Blue box ammo. Tighten forearm screw till it shoots 3/4", start a bit more than hand tight and work up. These are unreal rifles and parts are available to rebuild them. There is an update on the gas piston. Pull it apart and clean it. Mine has at least a thousand rounds thru it, altho a 308. Like shooting a varmint rifle recoil wise and damn near as accurate. The forearm screw is the key to my rifle.

I hope the information keeps coming, as I am looking for a BAR in 243. Wanting to use as a Dog gun when ranges get a little to much for my 223, and an extra deer rifle.

I've glassed the forearm on a Win 100, as covered on another Fire thread. And that really helped change that gun from 3" to 1 1/2" at a hundred.

The BAR's I've had didn't need any work. The were accurate (near MOA) out of the box and stayed that way.

DF

Sell it.

A real option if it doesn't respond to load development.

Because that's an accurate auto loader and an accurate round.

DF

I had my BAR safari in 270 win. trigger smoothed up. It helped a lot. Usually no worse than 1 1/4'' group @ 100 yards. First shot would, not always, have a different POI.

Years ago I had a BAR .270 and it would always throw the first shot out of the group. Then it would settle down and produce a good group. While I was hunting moose with it the problem never bothered me much. The first year I went to Wyoming I switched over to a bolt gun and never went back.

Jim

I've seen that with some semi autos.

It would seem that manually closing the bolt sets up a bit different than a bolt close from a full firing cycle. Not sure what to do about that one.

DF

My buddy has a newer short track and it is a tack driver. With a 55 gr nosler bt is will shoot far less than moa. I load it with RL 15 book max. Maybe not the normal for autos but all my BARs handle it fine and shoot very well. I have noticed that if you take the forend off you need to make shure you torque it the same when you put it back on or it will change your poi