There was another thread about bedding the Kimber Montana, and another with "accurizing" ideas. I'm one that thinks there is more than one way to achieve a goal, and rather than post on those good threads, I thought I'd just put up my own comprehensive post, sharing my own experience, methods, and observations.

As to history, I got my first Montana (8400 300 WSM) in the Spring of 2004, and have had something like 16 in the intervening years. Four were 8400's, and the balance in 84M and L's. Everything I'll share here I've done to all those, and I've never had a Montana that wouldn't shoot something sub moa.

Here's my rifle Pre-flight Checklist, some of which is specific to the Kimber, but most of which I apply to any new rifle:

1). Bed full Receiver and Shank (or full chamber).
2). De-grease Bolt and Trigger (Brake Cleaner).
3). Re-Oil/Grease Bolt and Trigger.
4). Apply nail polish to firing pin set screw (Kimber).
5). Adjust Trigger to 2.5 - 3lbs (MT's I like 2.5lbs).
6). Break top of feedramp with fine rattail file.
7). Polish feedramp and underside rails with 600 Emery.
8). Eezox all metal below stock level.
9). JB Weld scope ring bases to receiver top.
10). JB Weld sling swivel studs to stock.
11). Lap Rings, and de-burr with fine rattail file afterwards.
12). Mount scope in rubber cement. Blue Loktite ring screws.

a). With the 84's, make sure to check that the forward receiver scope base screw does not bottom-out into barrel shank. This is not always the case, as it was not with the rifle in these photos.

b). Much has been made about the mag box bottoming-out in the stock. I've never had this problem, but it certainly bears paying attention to.

c). Torque Specs: Front action screw, 45 inch lbs. Rear action screw, 35 inch lbs. Scope bases, 25 inch lbs. Ring screws, 20 inch lbs.


Bedding:

First some general thoughts... I've read the idea of bedding the MT with only the rear action screw tightened and a "guide screw" in the front. Have also seen "finger tightening" the action screws only. My own view is the action should bear on the pillars. That's what they're there for. Without using a bit more pressure than the above methods provide, the action isn't going to bear on them tightly, while oozing out excess epoxy. I put my action screws in "farmer tight" while bedding in order to make full pillar contact, and to move out excess epoxy. Afterwards I employ a torque screwdriver for consistency. As I said originally, there is always more than one way to do something, but I prefer my own method obviously!

Though the Montana is factory bedded with a "slave" action, it's surprising how much area will fill up with epoxy while still making full contact with the pillars. The factory bedding, however, really does move the process forward a fair bit, but I really don't think there's any substitute for bedding the actual action to the actual stock.

Bedding an already painted rifle is a bit more demanding than bedding a stock blank with no paint. More care is required to avoid beating-up the paint. Just a head's up.

Bedding Stuff:

Epoxy - I like Acraglass Gel or a similar Gel like Marinetex. I've also used runny 2-part epoxies but have always added a thickener like Cabosil (fumed silica) to those. The important thing is to NOT use non-thickened epoxy. I see guys using JB Weld, and while anyone is free to do what they want and it undoubtedly works well enough, I prefer a stronger epoxy. I use JB's on less critical chores like ring bases, where I prefer a weaker epoxy.

Release Agents - A lot of different ones work. I use Paste Wax for some aspects of the job, paint-on Brownells blue release agent for others, and Brownell's Acra-Release Aerosol for the barreled-action.

Exacto Razor Knife. (I prefer a no. 2 blade - have extra's on hand).
Blue Tape or quality masking tape (I prefer masking tape).
Modeling Clay.
60 Grit Sandpaper.
Mineral Spirits.
Acetone.
Fine artists brush (think small sable).
Paper towels.
Common Sense.
Patience.

The How:

Before I take the action apart from the stock I take the Exacto knife and score the paint around the tang to give my self a "guideline" to prep to. I also mark the stock with a pencil where I want the bedding to stop at the barrel shank.

After disassembling and setting the barreled action aside, I begin by prepping the stock.

I score a line in the stock at the end of the shank where I want to stop the epoxy. I then sand all the areas I want to bed with 60 grit, including down inside the lug area. Where I want to be careful to not over-sand into finished paint (like the tang and forward the shank) I score and "crosshatch" with the exacto, essentially duplicating the sanding, but in a more controlled way. After all this is done I wipe all the sanded areas down with acetone until all residue is removed.

Next I apply blue tape or masking tape along the top of the receiver, letting it overhang into the stock (PS, I prefer quality masking tape to blue tape). I then take the exacto and cut off the overhanging tape. It's important when using tape to really press it down to mate to the stock.

I then coat (the artist's brush) with the Brownell's blue paint-on release agent any and everywhere I DON'T want epoxy to stick. Those areas would include; Inside the pillars, the taped areas, inside the mag well (3/4 - 1" below the area being bedded), the barrel channel forward the shank where I want the epoxy to stop (put a lot here forward the shank - the epoxy will ooze forward!), the tang, the bolt handle cutout, etc. You really don't necessarily need tape on the stock... two coats of the blue release agent thinly applied will work on the stock, but I usually put tape on the flat surfaces for trimming purposes:





You can really see the blue release agent in this photo all around the tang and on the inside of the stock:



Next, I de-grease with acetone all the rifle surfaces to be be bedded. With the Montana I don't remove the trigger, bolt stop, or anything (other rifles I sometimes do). I wrap the trigger with tape and fill any voids with modeling clay. I fill the tang and lug screw holes with paste wax, and also the gas port. I re-wipe those areas with Acetone, and spray the entire receiver with the Brownells release agent, then set it aside:



I coat the action screws with paste wax so they'll release later:

Next I mix the epoxy, color to suit, and apply it to the stock:





As a final step, I re-shoot the action with the aerosol release agent and make make sure the action screws are fully coated with wax. I then carefully mate the action to the stock, tightening the actions screws and watching to keep the barrel true in the barrel channel while slowly applying more pressure to each screw as the epoxy finds its way out of the stock. Don't rush this, and while handling the rifle, watch that epoxy... you'll get it everywhere if not careful! (PS, note in the below pic the paste wax popping up in the rear receiver screw hole... it did its job!).



Now comes the waiting... Acraglass Gel is very consistent with its cure time, which is one reason I like it. It will be getting too hard to trim easily past the 6hr mark. Around the 3hr mark, while the epoxy is still pretty rubbery, I peel back the overflow slightly away from the action. This will make it easier later to remove the action without breaking epoxy and ruining your edge. Generally at 5hrs I score the epoxy around the tang with the exacto and remove it, then back the action screws out, pop out the action, and begin trimming the remaining excess epoxy. The exacto will ride along the top of the tape to trim this area. I score the shank line and pop that out as well.

After all that I put it back together and let it finish curing til the following day, when I do clean up. The blue release agent comes off with warm water. I rinse the entire inside of the stock with warm water and dish soap and dry. The modelling clay cleans up with a toothbrush and mineral spirits.

The finished bedding:

I see a permanent prominent position here. A great job, photos and explanation as always.

Awesome post! Would you mind going over how you JB weld the bases to the receiver and your other scope prep?

Well done how-to Brad. Pics are always worth 1k words.

Thanks Joe, and Scot... since you guys both have (had) Kimber MT's of mine, you both have seen first hand the bedding.

Scot, as to the rings...

I de-grease the underside of the ring bases, screws, and receiver screw holes with denatured alcohol. You really don't need to get too carried away, the epoxy will stick well enough. I then mix 2-Part standard grey JB Weld and coat the bottom of the bases. I also daub on a tiny bit the screws. I then attach them to the receiver, and finish tightening slowly with the Torque Wrench to 25 inch lbs. I clean up the excess with denatured alcohol (clean up helps with Q-Tips).

Lapping, I use a lapping bar and 240 grit lapping compound. Aluminum rings go quick so don't get too carried away. Also, because the receiver tops are so straight and even, the Kimber's are about the easiest action to lap rings to I've ever experienced... there's little to overcome in terms of out-of-whack machining.

Before lapping I wrap the action with saran wrap, and tape around the bases to keep lapping compound out of the action and off the stock and barrel.

On Talley Lwt's I plug the inside hole of each ring with a bit of cotton to keep lapping compound out.

After lapping, the rings will typically (depending on make) have a sharp edge all the way around. I take a fine rattail file and lightly relieve those edges at a 45* in order to keep them from marring whatever scope is to get mounted.

For scope mounting, I just apply a thin layer of Elmer's rubber cement. Whatever oozes out, I let dry and clean off. Scope rings get 20 inch lbs.

I think the above is as bomb-proof a method of scope mounting as you'll find. The JB Weld essentially provides a monolithic scope base.

To remove the bases, pop the action out of the stock, kiss the rings with a Benzomatic torch, and loosen the screws.

Thx MM.

Tis a good glob of information Brad. CP.

Very nice write up. I thought I was the only one anal enough to use an exacto knife.........

I also use a bunch of tape to make sure I have the break line between the barrel/action cutout and the stock covered. Plus I don't want any epoxy on the stock.

I hear you on the 2 action screw thing. I did a "test" of sorts. I put the action in the stock and used only the finger tight tang screw. The action didn't move. I did use 3 layers of black tape on the barrel to keep it centered in the channel. I could see where using the tape could raise the barrel enough where tightening the action screw could create a torque issue. I did the tang action screw thing to both of mine this AM. We'll see how they turn out.

Thanks again for taking the time to post.

Wow, very well put together Brad, the kimber folks should be very appreciative, nice work.

Bill I've found, rather than wrapping the barrel to keep it in the channel straight (for the pressure reason you state), applying a shim or two on the sides of the barrel channel while tightening will help.

Randy, thanks.

But really, most of the information is pretty generic to any rifle.

Merry Christmas my friend...

Chris, Merry Christmas to you and yours... hope you had a good hunting season!

Many Thanks Brad. That was a LOT of time putting that post together - very much appreciated. Merry Christmas!

Outstanding! Very nice of you to take the time to share.

Merry Christmas to you and yours as well Brad. CP.

Appreciate the detailed explanation. I too do all the same things to every rifle. I'll definitely keep this as a reference though. I have only one 84M, but it is an incredible hunting rifle in my opinion and these items are simple refinements that ensure consistent performance.

I have used JB Weld, as well as Acraglas, and have not seen a functional difference. Really was just due to using what I had on hand. Have to look more into the attributes.

My 84M has traveled a lot, been in rain, snow, and dust over the last 5+ years and I'm thinking about stripping it down and giving it a good check out. I'm primarily interested in corrosion.

Thanks again!

Great thread Brad. If more guys did this to any rifle they own, there would be a lot less threads on poor shooting rifles...

I'm 3+ hours into my Kimber bedding job. And learned to NEVER, EVER use straight Acra Glass again. I thought skim bedding I'll use a thinner material. It got under my masking tape, ran out the "stud", generally made a mess. I'm not hugely hopeful its going to come out the way the gel/SS versions usually do. I've got it all cleaned up but that stuff is garbage. I'll bet I'll be re-doing the bedding.........

Again - thank you for the thread and pics. I've done 20-30 rifles but I always learn something by looking at how other folks do things. Hadn't thought of the shim thing - I've always used 2-5 layers of electric tape to center the barrel in the channel.

Nicely done!


Kudos!

Scot, I always finish up with ring lapping last. And since this weekend I'm going through and doing the entire pre-flight to this Kimber 84L (270 Win), thought I'd detail my ring lapping a bit more.

Honestly, I think with a Kimber it's an entirely optional step. Like I said, the receivers are so darn perfect! However, I dislike the amount of "pinch" Talley Lwt's have, and since that's what goes on most of my Kimbers, I always lap them. Heck, I lap all rings... it's the anal thing to do

I start by taping off the receiver, and plugging any holes with cotton as I mentioned above... bedding compound wants to go everywhere!



I lap with 240 grit. It's important if doing both ring halves together (top and bottom) to keep the top rings consistent (even/parallel) to the lower rings while lapping to ensure an even lap. I continue to tighten the rings as I lap, and double check that the top rings are parallel fore and aft to the bottom rings:



When I feel I've gotten what I want, I remove all the screws and drop them into a jar of mineral spirits.

The next step is critical IMO... lapped rings are specific to their original location, so I remove the front ring, and with my exacto scratch a F-> on the inside of the ring... F = "Front Ring" and the arrow points towards the muzzle. Next I do the same to the rear with R->.

I clean the rings and screws with mineral spirits, and use bits of cotton ball wrapped on a toothpick and dipped in the spirits to clean the screw threads on the lower ring halves.

Lastly, I use a rattail file to bevel the sharp edge on the rings created by the lapping. I leave the saran wrap (or whatever) on the rifle during this part to keep all the filings from finding their way into the nooks and crannies of the action:



A bit more clean-up and the rifle is ready for a scope.

Thanks Brad,I really appreciate this. I have a couple of questions please.

What do you use to remove the paint on release agent from the stock? Is it hard to get off? I can see using it sparingly on the outside if it is hard to remove while I might use a lot more just in case if it is easy to remove.

Do you add tape or anything to the bottom of the recoil lug,or is it not necessary since you are tightening the action farmer tight?

I think I see that you are painting with release agent and taping the mag box area?

BSA, I concur... factory rifles, no matter what they cost, haven't been gone through like a properly constructed custom. All the things I've described cost a fair bit of coin if you're having a smith do it!

I want dibs on the next Montana you trip...

Tag this for when my Montana 7mm-08 comes in

PRM, I rate the JB's as slightly "inferior" only because of how it behaves after it's cured. JB's is a bit more brittle and will definitely "crack" with less force than Acraglas Gel. Hit with a torch it definitely loosens up more quickly than Acraglas. But again, that's just my subjective impression, and a man only has himself to please. JB's is undoubtedly "good enough"... my inner perfectionist just isn't happy with it though!

Years back I did industrial coatings and have used literally thousands of gallons of various epoxies... they're all formulated differently. We had one that was mixed with sand for trowel-on applications, and it smelled, looked (color) and acted exactly like JB's! Of the many different one's I used, that was the only one that had the same characteristics. I assume JB sources it from the same Co. as there are only a small handful of epoxy manufacturers world wide.

Yeah, Kimber MT's are outstanding hunting rifles. Not general-purpose rifles, but ideal for backcountry hunting...

LOL, no longer selling rifles... everything I have is staying from here on out as I've settled on what I like, and the dang things are not getting cheaper for some reason.

But I take that as a compliment

Great post Brad. I think the reason Kimbers sometimes get a bad rap is that the bedding from the factory looks so good people think they are a bedded action. As you stated, they are bedded to a dummy action, not any particular action. At least they are easy to skim bed and it takes very little material. You sure do a great job! Mine didn't turn out that pretty but it does shoot.

RH, the blue paint-on release agent comes right off with warm water. No harm, no foul. I use it everywhere, inside and out.




I always bed lugs tight, no tape on the front or bottom of the lug.




RH, no tape on the inside of the stock anywhere... chalk that up to early morning (bad) light for photography, or that some of the Montana paint peeled off in the mag box area when scraping out excess epoxy. I paint the blue release agent anywhere I don't want epoxy, inside and out.

On a tupperware (plastic stock) it's easier to just brush on paste wax. But since the Kimber already has paint, it's harder to remove the wax. Ditto the inside of a McMillan Edge stock.

PS, you a "Tide" fan? Probably a stupid question...

Where have we heard that before?!? 😉

What did you settle on as the perfect quiver?

Thanks Brad,yea I'm a Tide fan but I'm not as extreme as some and will root for the other home team when the're playing someone else.I'm actually not a really big sports fan. I enjoy watching a game with friends but I'm not the guy who will only hunt till game time.

Brad,

Thanks for taking the time to post this information and share your knowledge and techniques.

Based on the prior posts I think I may have bought from you the only Kimber Montana that you did not work on (grin). That 7-08 received the SAS treatment and resides in my first string line up.

WW, I think you did! I bought it, never did anything to it, and sold it!

AK, right now I have a Kimber MT 308, Kimber MT 270 (barrel cut to 22.5"), Winchester M70 308 EW and 1990's M70 SS Classic Fwt 270.

The M70 EW is in an Edge, PT&G Bottom Metal, X-Low Talley Lwts, and a 3.5-10x40 CDS on top. Lovely rifle, and really a better general purpose rifle than the Kimbers.

The M70 270 Fwt is the last to be put together. It will go in an Edge, PT&G bottom metal, open sights, 6x36 LRD in detachable mounts. A Finn Aagaard-esque "practical" rifle.

I have a MT 257 Rob barrel, and the 308 "might" get converted to that... or stay as it is. Or get re-barreled. We shall see!

Here's this years elk, a decent 7x7, with the 308:

I'm not much of a sports fan either, only reason I ask was I was recently in Starkville, MS with a client and watched the Tide roll-up the Bulldogs... what an amazing team. Really like watching an NFL team. I'd never been to an SEC game... really more of a religious event!

Bill, yeah runny epoxy is a zero in a rifle... really not sure why Brownell's even sells the stuff. It's a specialty item, not for any kind of bedding I know of, unless thickened.

Glad you like the thread. R H CLark really inspired me to do it. He put up a post yesterday requesting any Montana bedding tips, and since I was quite literally just starting one, thought I'd oblige.

I've gleaned a lot from various guys on this site over the years, and it's only right to take some time to give back something that will hopefully help someone else.

Merry Christmas all...

Brad, Thank you for the time and effort to post. As said above, a picture is worth a thousand words... Much appreciated...

Nice work Brad. I'm sure it make those Kimbers shoot 'mo-betta'

Nice posts. Thanks.

This thread is an excellent resource that needs to be made a sticky.

Thank you, Brad, for your work to create this presentation. And your photos are excellent. Merry Christmas.

Really neat looking job Brad. Looks way better than most of mine have turned out. One question. Do you check that the pillars are at the correct height so as not to induce stress into the action before going "farmer tight" on the screws?


Dave.

Tagged. Thanks for the write-up and photos Brad. I'm gearing up to bed my first action, a M70 Classic into a McMillan. Your post goes a long way in helping me visualize a few steps.

Excellent post Brad. Have done a few myself with the only significant differences being that I stop at the lug, floating the shank one wrap of masking tape, use a set of bedding studs rather than OEM fasteners, and get a tad lazy on the stock masking too, using WD-40 on some Q-Tips to spin/slide the fresh, extruded AcraGlas gel off. Running a fresh Q-tip with WD-40 around the stock/action makes a nice, clean fillet. After curing, a soapy sponge removes the WD-40 off the stock's surface after popping the action loose.

Pretty sweet write up, just wish it would have come 2 days sooner or I would have done mine a day later. Did two on Saturday similar to SAS's upgrade, I'm sure they'll shoot similar to the 5 I've already done similar but I'd like to try something different. Excellent thread, thanks and appreciate the pics.

Runny Acra glass is all we used to have. The gel came much later. The runny stuff is supposed to be harder, and is often used as an adhesive, where being thin is an advantage. I have never tried the gel so can not compare, but did one stock with the gel type stuff from midway. I thought it was way soft.

I pulled it last night and surprisingly it looked really good. In fact it is perfect except I got more in the barrel channel than I care for but will likely shoot it as it. A Dremel tool will fix the issue if it needs fixed. I'm still not using the runny variety ever again.

Brad,one more question please. After bedding there is a very thin layer of compound on top of the pillars,I'm guessing you just leave it there?


The regular original Accraglass is perfect for gluing up hidden tang knives. It's thinness allows it to perfectly conform to an antler handle and it's shrinkage is less that other epoxies.

Dave, that's a good question, and frankly I'm not really sure how to answer it.

I suppose the way to say it is, with the action screws mating the action to the pillars, I've never had a Montana not have enough room all around it to allow an thin layer of epoxy while still bearing on and exposing the pillars. If there were a problem spot higher than either of the pillars, it wouldn't allow the bedding material.

... makes me wonder if in fact the Kimber slave action is not slightly oversized?

I will say, I once had a Rem Model 7 who's stock was so badly formed the bolt wouldn't run in the raceways without binding. Only when the action screws were completely lose would the bolt run free. Talk about "stressed"... That one went back to Remington!

I do... the top of the pillars are scuffed up enough it's not going anywhere. And really, 45 inch-lbs for the front, and 35 for the rear are really not that much. I don't worry about it, and have never found it a problem.

Bill, I'm glad it worked out!

To all, thanks for the kind words!

Brad

Once you get done with all of your set up steps, do you find your rifles hold zero better than an out of the box set up?

Well done.

tag for later

Great post. Thank you!

Brad - awesome post! Thank you

Brad, good post. Still kicking myself for selling that 30-06 I bought from you.

Brad,

This is impressive. I usually don't realize I bedded a rifle until I wake up and find it in the gun vise.

Props.




Travis

Flave, same thing here. I always seem to bed them after work, go to sleep and then wake up at 2 or 4AM and pop them out of the stock.


Brad, your bedding job reminds me of a finish carpenter type work. Mine are more along the lines of corral type 'carpentry' work!

Brad, great job!

And, GREAT bull!

Merry Christmas to you and yours!

The next time Brad beds a rifle, we ought to get him to shoot a video and post it on u tube.
Merry Christmas to everyone.

Brad,

You bed the "shank or full chamber" area.

What about on a Winchester Featherweight contour barrel? Do you still bed the chamber area, or some other amount?

Deep, can't really say as I think I've only ever shot one Kimber (a 308) without fully bedding it. That rifle shot great, but most 308's do!

DD, on the featherweight I generally will bed to the base of the cartridge shoulder.

Travis, what happens in Havre, stays in Havre.

Sammer, you know how meticulous I am... can be a bit of a curse at times. But it does get me a lot of work!

Yeah I guess you wouldn't really know then.

How's this: do you typically have to adjust the scope when you go the range post-season?

Even for rifles that don't get hunted, I often find that they are off 1/2 MOA or so if they sit in the closet long enough.

Nope, essentially never. Funny you should bring this up, I took my 308 MT up to my range last week after the season to check its zero, and it was exactly where it was at the beginning of the season, after a pretty good backpack hunt.

That is a good sign.

Great write up Brad, Thanks.

Really great write-up Brad. Thanks for taking the time.

Congrats on another very fine bull also!

Merry Christmas

Brad, great write-up. Question on the JB-Weld scope base mounting. Have you ever done it on a rifle with Cerakote and tried to remove the scope bases? I'm guessing the cerakote would come off but have never tried it. I have some rifles with cerakote and been reluctant to use the JB-Weld for this reason.

Merry Christmas

Brad,
Thanks a ton for the great post. I have an 84L Classic with the walnut stock. Any ideas on anything you might do differently for a wood-stocked gun?
Thanks,
Jed

DJ, I've no idea on the Ceracote... that would likely be a good question for someone that applies it like Redneck here on the forum. I'd be curious to know myself.

Merry Christmas!

Jed, nice thing about your wood stock is that, unlike the Montana's which are "generically" bedded with a slave action, the wood-stocked versions are bedded to their individual actions, so unless you want to add some bedding to what is already there, I'd not worry about it.

Best,

Brad

Thank you and tag

Brad, I had never heard that about the wood stocks. That really surprises me that they would do one method for one type of stock and another for the other. How did you find that out?

Great write up...and excellent work. I would gladly pay for instruction in your bedding practices.

I have it in my mind that I can do it. Would just like to have someone looking over my shoulder and guiding me through potential trouble spots.

Thanks for sharing.

GB

Jed, that's what I was told by Kimber. But I honestly can't confirm it as I've never had an 84M wood model apart. What are your thoughts pulling it apart, does it look like the action and bedding were mated during bedding? Put up some pics if you can.

The Montana stocks are made and painted in Costa Rica, so it makes sense they'd be bedded at the time of mfg with a slave action.

Brad,
I will gladly post pics of my 84L Classic once I get it apart. Any idea of what specifically I'd be looking for to tell if it was needed to that particular action? Mine has only had a few rounds (12-18 I think) through it since I bought it new last year.
Thanks,
Jed

ttt

First time I have heard that. Have always understood the walnut stocks are harvested, built, checkered and bedded to slave actions in Costa Rica before being sent to NY. Far cheaper wood and labour costs. They are one of the only production stocks that are still checkered with a human operating the tool, as can be told by the imperfect checkering. I have bedded all the wood stocked Kimbers I've had. They suffer the exact same maladies as the montanas as far as bedding and binding magazines, etc.

bushrat, thanks for the clarification...

The last time my vise looked like that I was taking it out of the box...

Very nice work Brad. Very nice....

W

Woofer, Merry Christmas man!

How's things in "The Kingdom?"

Brad,

Great work BTW. Do you have any experience with Devcon Titanium epoxy for either the bedding or the scope mounts?

Old Elk, no I have no experience with that particular epoxy.

Not 100% sure that is how it is , it is what I was led to understand. Kimber seems a bit elusive about it's manufacturing process. It would be ice to know for sure.

I agree... I've never actually seen the glass bedding in an 84 wood stock...

Identical to the montanas except it's not painted over.

Good to know...

Back atya' Brad. The kingdom is void of snow. 40's 50's mostly. Xmas is 60 I guess. I would bitch but being old now 40 and 50 in Dec are OK.....

I know I'm old now because my 17yr daughter said goodbye the other day and kissed me on top of my head. It was the first thought that came to mind. Laughed out loud.

Anyone know off hand what the barrel thread specs are on the 84?

I was re-reading this, and it occurred to me the only additional thing I now do to each rifle is Tubbs Final Finish and ultra bore coat. It has resulted in improved accuracy in each rifle. The most recent was a Howa Mountain Rifle in 308 Win. If nothing else, the Tubbs FF makes the barrel feel as smooth as glass and it cleans up easier.

Woof, 2' of snow on the ground here. I may have to move to north Vermont.

prm, I need to try the Tubbs.

Final rifle... Kimber 84L MT 270 Win, barrel cut/recrowned to 22.5", 2.5-8x36, Talley Lwt Lows, Uncle Mike's Mountain Sling, 4 rounds, 6lbs 10.5 oz's. I'll add a CDS later, will bump rifle to 6lb's 11oz's all-up.

Great job, mine never look that good. Thanks for the write up.

Brad, here's the eastern MT version and I know you love bipods.....grin


Shoots 140 Accubonds uber-good with a case full of H4831sc.

Nice, Sammo. I have a couple of 270s that love the same load.

Excellent thread, Brad. I do this will all my rifles.

Sam, 140 NAB's are on hand to try. That's about as good a one-bullet-bullet as I can think of.

We've got over 2' new snow here in the last week... may not head out to shoot for a couple days

My 270 in October, 140 gr TSX. Truly a great rifle.

Ed, congrat's on your elk and the Kimber... the 270 MT is to Western highcountry hunting what carrots are to peas.

I got one of the first 270 MT's about four years ago. Like yours a 6x36 lr rode on top. I shot a couple elk with it, including an old 6x6, and foolishly sold it. This new one is meant to make up for that mistake!

This one fell to a 150 Partition:

Brad,

You were the one that eventually made me go to the Dark Side. Between this rifle and my LW 375 H&H M70 I am tempted to unload the rest. My three son's cringe when I mention that.

Brad is bad for my gun looneyism. <G>

He also really needs to have a pictorial post of his elk. He has quietly amassed a nice collection of great elk. When he talks elk and elk rifles I tend to pay attention - he knows of what he speaks.

Aw shucks...

Ed, that 270 Montana does seem to render most everything else redundant...

Sorry for being such a bad influence!

Merry Christmas guys...

Brad,

Awesome thread. Thanks for posting. Quick question as I'm on the fence between a Montana and EW Model 70 in .300 Win. In your previous post you mentioned the EW being a better everyday gun. Question is what makes is a better everyday gun than the Montana. Second question is how close can you get the EW in weight to the Montana with the custom bottom metal and lighter stock? Thanks

That original 270 of Brads is still kicking down doors. But it's deer shoulders instead of elk. I keep hoping the good elk Ju-Ju will come my way, but 0-2 so far. Someday!

It's the Swaro scope. Switch it back to a 6x36, and watch her shine.

I considered that Elk didn't like the Swaro

OAG, it pleases me to no end you got my old 270... it's a darn good rig!

tm, answered on your other post.

Brad

Couple more photos of two "preflight" items...



4). Apply nail polish to firing pin set screw (Kimber):





Here's one I forgot to mention. Call it 13). on the checklist

When Kimber assembles the Montana stocks, they're apparently (sometimes) adding the pads while the stock is still curing and producing heat. This sucks the air out of the recoil pad and "dimples" it. To make the dimples vanish, puncture the dimples with a heavy pin. Over time the pad will find its original shape. I haven't seen this problem in a while, but a lot of the older MT's had this issue.

Brad,
I finally got around to taking my 84L apart and this is what I found. The bedding under the barrel shank looks like it is only making partial contact based on part of the bedding being 'shiny' and the rest having a slightly roughened appearance. The receiver portion had an even finish. I know the pics aren't the greatest, but what do you all think? I think it is time to order some Acraglas Gel!

Jed, go for it... sure can't hurt, and certainly could help!

Thanks for the pictures.

ttt

Thanks for the information.

Bump.

I'll add my thanks to a great thread!

Any chance you could elaborate a little more on the filing/polishing of the ramp? How much of the ramp are you hitting? How fine of a rat tail file are you using?

Thanks again for a great thread

MT, if you look on page one lower down from the bedding where I show the ring lapping, the bottom photo shows breaking the sharp edge of the lapped rings with a fine rattail file. It's a small round one, not sure how fine it is, but you can see in the photo there's not much tooth to it at all. It's likely a finish file for a chain saw blade.

The angle you see there is about the same on the ramp... you're only "breaking" the sharp edge at the very top of the ramp where cartridges are scratched as they ride over it to enter the chamber. The actual "face" of the ramp just gets a good polish with 600 Emery.

Should'a looked this up a week ago... Some good practices.

I don't know when or how they're doing it but a Pachmayr Decelerator Old English pad will compress when clamped and sometimes stay dimpled looking when the pressure is let off, no heat required. The fix is exactly as pictured. It also takes just the pin prick to shove a lubed screw thru there too, if one's into screwing rather than gluing. At olden day KoO there were many many trials to go with a screwed-on pad on the 89s. Just never would result in everything lined up 100% perfectly flush while 100% gap free on the end product. It took literally dozens of trials to show management, and a picky guy in the final assembly area, initials DC, that it was not a Machine Sanding - Hardware Department flaw. The trouble that spurred the testing was the taping required and the resultant lines or edges that can result using the spray-on finish, a 2k automotive clearcoat.

I was fairly satisfied with the pad on my Montana, it was perfectly shaped but with the plastic base just a hair uniformly undersize of the composite - real good tolerances, si muy bueno. I sanded my composite/paint down to match the plastic of the buttplate so I could tape off and paint to the rubber and not have a recessed band between the composite and the rubber, nor a ridge at the edge of the composite. The pads on wood stocks are, I surmise, still glued on then carved down in-place, ala machine sander, likely having finish over the plastic base, not like the Montana where the hard base is finish free.

There's several things about these rifles I did not realize, one is the great trigger. It adjusted down and performs perfectly satisfactorily. Glad this thread got back up.

Thanks!

Great info in this thread.
Gives me another fun project.
Thanks.

tag

Wow Brad!
Very nice work. I need to 'tag' this thread, for certain.

An excellent job preparing a rifle for "no excuses" use. While I feel woefully unqualified to critique it, I am a tad surprised that in the original list of tweaks there is not:

5.5 Apply fingernail polish to trigger adjusting screws.

Yeah, when I said 5). Adjust Trigger to 2.5 - 3lbs (MT's I like 2.5lbs) I forgot to add that I always re-seal the adjustment screws with nail polish.

Good catch!

Just read this.
Thanks Brad!

Folks, remember to be especially careful when drilling out the head of your cross-threaded rear takedown screw so you don't nick the trigger guard.

Tagged.


Okie John

Tag

Tag

Great thread! Im going to be going through this one a few times while I get ready to bed my Mountain Ascent. I see photo bucket has screwed up the pictures though. Any chance of getting them back up for us?

Thanks for the post.

Bumping this up as well - any chance there are updated pics out there since photobucket messed them up?

Tag

tag

This is an old thread but I found something on a new Kimber Hunter 6.5CM that I picked up on Black Friday. When I removed the stock I noticed the front action screw left a small mark on the bottom of the barrel shank. (Threaded hole goes clear through receiver and barrel shank can be seen through hole). Anyway, I filed .010" off the bolt and now it no longer touches. Last time out I had a couple groups well under 1" (best 3 shot group was .6). Not sure if it was the bolt or loads I'm working on, but if a long screw on a scope ring can cause havoc - I would have to believe a stock bolt could do the same. If you are having trouble with your Kimber, give it a look.

FWIW: Smoking the end of the bolt with soot is an easy way to see if it is touching. I like to light the end of a piece of masking tape on fire and use the soot. (Also makes awesome sight black).

After setting mine aside for a long while, upon a fresh start, I found my feeding issues to be confounded by a gloob of resin in the stock's mag well that caused the mag box to tilt on reassembly. No amount of dinking with the lips of the box was going to fix that. Once cleaned out, careful work with a new box and follower got her working good. Especially pleased how slick the ejector catches the cartridge on the forward move. Great little rifle.

This should be a sticky. A lot of the same info can be used on the model 70 as well.

There's much to be said,for Starting At The Fhuqking Start...no matter the Make or Model

Hint..............

No chit huh!

Have seen it matter.....................(grin)

Great thread with lots of great info!......

Tag

Tag - Brad, any way you can get the pics back into this thread?

Tag

Tagged

Brad- looks like damn Photobucket nixed all the photos

Mike

Tagged

Tag

Tag

tag

Tag

Bumping this to the top, for easier reference.

Also, any chance someone has the photos from this thread saved?

Tag

I asked Brad if he would re post them. Thinking he just ain’t found the time

He's an old-timer now. It may take him longer to get to it.

Since this has had so much interest over a number of years and applies to virtually all bolt actions and not just Kimbers it would be nice if we could get the pics restored and pin this thread to the top.
Ric?

Rick has nothing to do with it... photos got deleted off phtobucket when it changed.

I plan on re-doing the entire thread with new pictures and additional information... when this old timer gets around to it

Thanks Brad, a lot of us look forward to that.

That would be very kind of you.
Thanks.

Nice write up thank you. 👍

Also thanks to whoever bumped this old thread up. I like seeing how other guys do it and make adjustments as needed in my routine. Very helpful thread.

With age comes wisdom and patience.

😂🤣Ask me how I know😉

I recently traded into a 308 Montana. Going to go thru this checklist after the holidays. Good stuff in this thread!

TAG

Bump it up,

this is really interesting wish I could see the pics of the process

Me too!

I can't believe theres a check list. On my 4th Montana and they all shot great out the gate.

.243
7mm-08
.308
300 wsm

TAG

Sticky, sticky, sticky!

Excellent thread Brad & all.

I’m enjoying my 1st Montana in 30-06 and sure enough it’s feeding rough. I’m going to run the whole rifle thru the list of tweaks and get her ready for next season. I did find that 55gr of Imr 4350 under a 180gr anything will make big holes - which led to excited feeding which led to awareness that something wasn’t quite right.

Be well buddy!

Pints

POC, I kinda just got into the Montana's and Dave7mm mentioned using a little STP Oil treatment on the lugs, and I mean just a small bit on the finger tip. Besides lubricating the lugs, a bit of it got on the rails and probably on the follower and man, it smoothed up feeding in all 4 of the Kimber SA's. When I first started running them they were rough as a cob comparing them to 70's..

Give it a try, only out 5-6 bucks..

Yesterday I coonfingered one of the new Montanas in 308 as part of the mid-life crisis that I'm hitting at 62.

Anyone else tried them?


Okie John

I'm pretty sure nobody buys them anymore....

I’ll have (2) new to me Montuckies this next pass and hopefully a Kimber Police Tac to boot. Hint……..

I was correct......

Yep,little danger of you getting anything new,but at least you get to read about it. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!…………..

Buy something new......

Me.....On Wheel of Fortune
"Pat.....I'd like to buy a "new" post from Big Stick"

Pat.....
"Sorry.....Big Stick hasn't created a "new" post in a decade you lost your spin"

Keep Pretending aloud and pardon wares that exist,as you “live” vicariously. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!……….

I ran that through Google translator and it said you failed 7th grade English or you are a Slavic immigrant

Fortunately for you,Imagination and Pretend are free,so even YOU can “afford” to “contribute”…you “lucky” kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Keep Pretending aloud. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!………….

Free.....

Laffin

For context,you can cite how many times a day you think about me and how Imitation is THE most Sincere form of Flattery. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!…………..

Imitate?

That's funny. Do you have a stand up act? A guy in the back with a snare drum and a cymbal?

How many times a day do you think about me? Hint.

What do you do for a “living”,which mandates your Whining Brokedicktitude and inability to “do” for yourself. Hint.

You are on the drums and it’s Flattering. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!………….

Flattering that you are responding to my every word?

Who holds the strings? You think it's you...

I'll take all I can get. So far I've had to do a total of "jack squat" to any of them. Well, I did turn a Montana that someone put in a Hunter configuration, back into a Montana. But they all shoot. Even the hunter.

Nah.....

I laid that bait out there for a big ol stubby!!!
She swam out and pulled my bobber under several times just like I planned

It is fascinatingly fhuqking HILARIOUS,that you "think" your STUPIDITY is a "secret weapon". It's simply a fhuqking plight and your vicarious "living",is a hoot! Hint.

Most recent Montucky to hit the porch(last pass). Hint.












Don't "forget" that Imitation is THE most Sincere form of Flattery,as you nip heels and Pretend aloud. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!..................

My bobber just took another run......

Predictable

Like YOU could "afford",let alone "have" a bobber. Fortunately for you,Imagination and Pretend are free,so even YOU can "afford" to "contribute"...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?




Montucky prior,which was the pass prior. Hint.










Imitation is THE most Sincere form of Flattery. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!.................

I'm going to have to get a bigger stringer.....

Keep extolling your very WELL founded Insecurities and I'll simply fuel same,with wares that exist. Hint.

Typical slow day here. Hint.









Now you can say you've "seen" a Montucky Seex Twat-Seex...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?





Fortunately for you,Imagination and Pretend are free,so even YOU can "afford" to "contribute". Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!....................

Predictable

Better check to see if he didn't steal my bait.....

Of course it's predictable. You are going to Whine Insecurities from your Couchbound Kchunt and I'm happily going to fuel them,as you "live" vicariously...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

STUPIDITY isn't "bait",it's a plight and them differences are stark. Hint.



Mmmmm...next newest Montucky. Lilja 8" Seex Twat-Seex. Hint.





Only have a brace(that means two) of 'em. Hint.




You Brokedick Do NOTHING Droolers,are a hoot! Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!................

A new day.....same fish taking the same bait.

It's easy

What else does Liar Larry have to do? Sure doesn't hunt, shoot, work, or do anything productive.

Just pretends he does. LOL HINT

2nd barrel on this receiver(now on it's 3rd). You ladies keep extolling how Imitation is THE most Sincere form of Flattery,as you "live" vicariously...you "lucky" kchunts. Hint. Congratulations?!?



Fhuqking LAUGHING!..................

Same fish

Different day

Predictable

You Window Licking CLUELESS Do Nothing Kchunts are a hoot! Hint.

Typical day. Hint.











Be SURE start a Thread,if you ever go Outdoors. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!.................

Same fish

Same bear

Same bite

Reliably predictable

It's not like you could even begin to "do" for yourself. Hint.





At least you can "afford" to read about it...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Fhuqking LAUGHING!....................

That's a serious fish....

Stick -- NEVER STOP! NEVER GIVE UP! NEVER STOP TRYING TO EDUCATE THESE LUGS ONE COPY-PASTED PICTURE OF A FISH FROM 8 YEARS AGO AT A TIME!

If Stick has told you dolts once he's told you a thousand times: the brand of the rifle matters INFINITELY MORE than if you're actually able to harvest game with it! I wouldn't touch a rifle used to kill 100 trophy elk if it doesn't say Kimber or Barrett, hasn't been thrown in the creek at least 14 times, and hasn't been run through the old ballistics calculator for a 147 ELX-DXMD-NKDNGD at 1200 yards in atmospherics consistent with South America during the late Triassic period. Back in the early 90s I was a

IF THEY STILL WON'T LISTEN AFTER ALL YOU'VE DONE, POST A PICTURE OF TODAY'S MAIL! IT'S THE ONLY WAY THEY'LL LEARN!

Same refusal to learn! Back in the late 60s I was milling planks in the Yukon and ran into a guy who thought he could shoot fish a 38-55. He figured if it would kill a deer or elk, it would easily stop a trout. I explained to him that at 900 feet above sea level a 45-70 drops 517 feet at 125 yards and carries less energy than a newly-served pinball. He quit his job and opened the first Waffle House west of the Prime Meridian. Used to cut steaks with a 1400cc Yamaha with a dual Foster plank welded right onto the giblet plate.

WHY DOES STICK HAVE TO KEEP EXPLAINING THIS STUFF?!

It’s plum fhuqking flattering,when a Drooling Brokedick CLUELESS Fhuqk registers,so she can “live” vicariously…the “lucky” kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Fhuqking LAUGHING!………..

They do teach English, sentence structure and grammar in your trailerhood?

No?

What is going on here? Bedding?

Shadetree mechanic- brokeback gunsmith

Used rifles that "don't shoot" are my fhuqking FAVORITE and such things are very much tied to correct assembly,the balance being Reupold scopes. Hint.(grin)

The bestest/easiest way to assemble a Blind Mag Box correctly,is to simply gut wrap the follower spring midship on it's foot and tether tails to receiver walls. Poke it in the stock,give the tape tail a tug and trim. It will then "magically" disappear below the stock line. Repeat and you are there. 7-08 illustrated. Hint.

243 here. Hint.




Such simplicity,breaks alotta hearts. Hint.



Fhuqking LAUGHING!....................

Are you using the kimber follower? Maybe looks like a 700?

Good intel. Going to give it a whirl.

If you FL bed the action as God intended, that's not going to work.

A better workaround is not being a ham-fisted meathead.

I drive S/A 700 milled followers in all of my S/A Montuckies,whether .378" or .473". Hint.




On a Montucky,I prefer to R&D the barrel for happiness,in regards to fore end pressure. I do so by using electrical tape,to find what it likes,then I simply replicate that preference with bedding. Quick,fast,easy and unerring. Same approach on something like a Howie Carbon Mini. Hint.



Spent Primers remain THE Supreme Tutorial and why CLUELESS Fhuqking Droolers like Bradjelina,are unable to connect a single fhuqking dot. Her "life" expenditure of ammo,wouldn't fill a pint ziploc with empty brass. HINT.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!....................

Thread about bedding and LiL Fish adds tape between stock and action because she can't assemble a blind mag box.

I guess if all one does is take pictures of their "wares" is matters not if the bedding is all fucked up because of a layer of electrical tape.

You Crying Kchunts be sure to Duel,in order to sort who thinks about me the most. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!………….

Dearest LiL Fish,

I am just a bit jealous of Brad because you put his name and statement in all of your posts. Every. Single. Post.

What does it take to get you to add my name and a post to your sig line?

Thanks in advance.

You couldn’t begin to “afford” a Montana,but fortunately you can”afford” to steal pictures and think of me…you “lucky” kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Don’t “forget”,that Imitation is THE most Sincere form of Flattery. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!…………..

Your problem sticker is you don't understand things shoot loose, not tight. Good bedding is essential to tight. Hint.

What.....

No more bluegill pictures strung up next to an ugly rifle somebody left in a creek??

You Professional Victims are a hoot...you "lucky" kchunts. Hint. Congratulations?!?

Don't forget that Imitation is THE most Sincere form of Flattery,as you steal pics to boot. Keep filing your Hurt Feeler reports and waxing eloquent on your copious very WELL founded Insecurities and I'll happily fuel same with wares that exist. Hint.





Bless your hearts for trying.

Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!....................

Phugg Stick, You make that Bluegill look Yuge!!!

We normally catch 40 or 50 so.......

Stick,

6x MQ on the Kimbers?

6x MQ? I only have dozens and dozens and dozens of 'em. Hint.




And dozens. Hint.....................(grin)

LiL Fish,

When your best play is posting fish pictures in the Hunting Rifles forum it's time to do some introspection about how you got to this place.

Love and Kisses

John

Squirms,

Simply cite how many times a day you think about me,as you blindly follow me around…you “lucky” kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?

At least you can “afford” to “live” vicariously and there’s no slighting your taste in men. Hint.

Fhuqking LAUGHING!………..

Let’s take a poll:

Who would you rather have shooting at you???

Burns or Stick???

Who doesn't love the oblivious HILARITY,of a Professional Victim? Hint.





Fhuqking LAUGHING!........................