I have never been on a sheep or goat hunt and for some weird reason don't have the sheep bug yet, but have recently started liking the idea of a goat hunt. If I were to do this, I may try to book a hunt in BC. But with all this goat hunting going through my head, it got me thinking rifles. I have my trusty Win 70 270, but it's 9 pounds loaded up so we need to go lighter on the weight....I got this setup running through my head right now - thoughts -

Tikka T3x Superlite stainless 300 win mag
McMillan Sako Classic Edge
Talley ringmounts
NF NXS 2.5-10x42

Probably around 7.5# loaded up, maybe a touch less. Would be willing to have a heavier scope for pure reliability factor. If I could put this setup together for $25-2600 would it be a good investment or would there be better options for that $$$$ (Keep in mind I'm pretty set on the NF 2.5-10X42)

This rifle would be a strict mountain gun for the occasional sheep/goat hunt.

I'd go with something with a little less recoil. Hard kicking stuff ain't fun when shooting in monkey pucking a jug positions, and you can get into some weird shooting positions in the rocks.

A lighter .270 would work just fine.

Shots aren't usually long. In fact you will be surprised at how close they can be.

This exact setup in a 270wsm?

Never hunted sheep/goats but this seems to be a ballistics question. A 270 WSM doesnt gain much over the plain Jane 270 Win. We're it me, I'd buy a Kimber 84L in 270 Win. Mine weighs a tad less than 7lbs with scope, catridges, sling. A 150 at 3050 should work. I know elk aren't fond of it.

I'd not take a 270WSM over a 270.

If you're worried about shooting far, skip the 270's and 30's and go 6.5mm or 7mm something.

+1

And if you're set on the NF 2.5-10x42 then a SA would be a good choice- 6.5 Creed or 7-08 seem logical. Don't need a cannon to put the hurt on...[

In 75' i used a tang ruger 270win for both dall sheep and mtn goat. And i believe i used plain old corelokts as well. Any reasonably lightweight rifle would serve. If i were returning tomorrow, I'd take a 270win.

Appreciate all the feedback. I know the capabilites of the 270 win as thats been my primary caliber of choice for deer, elk, shiras moose, black bear, and antelope here in Idaho. I was mainly looking at some other options just so as to not double up and have 2 270's.

Also curious on feedback on the rifle/stock/scope choice. I think a Superlite Tikka in an edge stock should be more than lite enough. Again, this setup may only be used on 1-2 hunts and then put in the safe - thinking a scope at the NF NXS level may be a little overkill?

Get a 270, 270 WSM or 30-06 in a Tikka T 3 and go for it. It is was me would go with a Leupold 6x36 with the LR duplex over the scope you are looking at.

I was mainly looking at some other options just so as to not double up and have 2 270's


......not that there's anything wrong with that.


One set up for mountain hunting and the heavy one set up with say, 150 or 160gr NPs sounds like the beans to me, especially since in general you seem happy with the round so far. Don't let the homophobes scare you off. Not a huge Tikka fan, but admire the performance, so all things considered, it seems like the easy way out.

How about considering staying with your .270, but putting it on a diet? Adding a McMillan Edge, Talley LW's, a Leupold VX3 2.5-8 scope, might reduce quite a bit of weight. I have a customized pre-'64 action, rebarreled to .280 Rem., with a Bansner stock, 22" #2 barrel, Talleys, VX3 2.5-8, which is a shade over 7.5# all up. Makes for a great mountain rifle, for about any species you might want to hunt.

The problem with that is my .270 already has an edge...lol SC Win 70 action, timney, edge, talleys, VX6 2-12X42, The reason its so heavy is it has a 24.75" Shilen #3 with nearly 2" of shank. The only way to reduce the weight is to put a new barrel on it. But it shoots so good, thats not happening.

Maybe I just suck it up and loose 5-10 pounds more than my hunt weight and lug a 9# rifle up the mountain....

hiaring -

Another suggestion per Goat Rifle & Hunting.

First I've never hunted goats BUT I've read a LOT about it. One thing stood out is, Goat Guides & Experienced Goat hunters said,

"most hunters use TOO heavy or stout constructed bullets. Goats are NOT thick nor heavy muscled. Don't OVER bullet."

Just passing along a suggestion from reliable sources.


Jerry

Brilliant.

LOL, ever see what a goat looks like under the hide??? Apparently not...

Of all the rifles I own, I normally grab the 338 WM just for the smash crash factor, although the 308 Tikka T3 got taken on my last goat hunt. A 270 would be fine with the right trigger nut. Lighter is good, if you can swing it, and a 300 WM in a T3 wouldn't be a wrong answer.

I've only ever used a 30/06, but then again it was all I owned at the times I went and brown bears were aplenty in some of the places.

A Tikka in 7mm Rem wouldn't suck, I'm assuming they chamber for that?

There you go again: S H .



I said, "I've never hunted goats" !! What I posted came from Goat/Sheep Guides PLUS hunters that have killed them. THEY said it doesn't take a HEAVY or STOUT constructed bullet. Too many Xs there are pass thrus w/o sufficient expansion.
Take it or not FROM THEM.

I'm out.

Jerry

I'd go with a lightweight 6.5 Creedmoor in a factory rifle. When I did my AK sheep hunt I went with a lightweight 260, but it was a NULA with a 3-inch magazine, I'm not sure what Tikka's have. It's much more fun to shoot any kind of volume with a short-action non-magnum 6.5 in a lightweight rifle and it's got enough power and lots of good bullets to choose from to reach out.

I have shot a few goats but that does make me an expert, however I will pass along my thoughts as if I am one.

My go-to rifle was a 30/06 loaded with a 165 gr Nosler Partition. It was J C Higgins (FN Mauser) with a Butler Creek tupperware stock, Leupold 6x36 scope - I am guessing it was around 8 lbs all up, I didn't find it particularly offensive weight wise probably because it handled so good.

If I were going today I would take a Tikka stainless/synthetic with a Leupold 6x36, for a caliber I would take either a 7/08 or 270,with a Nosler Partition. No need for a custom, super light weight rifle, or something that kills on both ends, that combo will work just fine.

IMO tales of goats toughness are exaggerated. If you look at the skeletal make-up of a goat you will see that his hump is quite a bit higher than his vitals. Many hunters center on the body like they were shooting a deer or elk and as a consequence the bullet goes through the lower part of the hump, which is heavily muscled, and the goat keeps going on because the bullet passes through muscle, not vitals.
Anyone who says a goat is not heavily muscled has never skinned one, or have been in the country where they live.

Something else to keep in mind - the Billies are hard to distinguish from the Nannies, a good way to make a quick and fairly accurate judgement of which it is take a look at the eye. A billy's eye will be about the same size as the base of his horn - a nannies will be smaller. Also a good set of horns will be at least twice as long as the ear, twice as long as the ear horns will measure out around 10", anything longer is a real trophy.

My goats have been taken at close range, anywhere from 75 to 150 yds. I have seen a lot at further range but resisted the temptation to shoot them - just because you can see them doesn't mean that you can get to them after they are down.

I am old enough and stove up enough now that I won't be going after any more goats, although a sheep hunt may still be out there for me (if I could just draw a tag).

drover

My goat experience is limited to tagging along on some hunts...as I've never bee able to pull a tag. The goats I did see killed did die easily, but they can wind up in some pretty gnarly spots. Occasionally they can and do fall off cliffs and (rarely) at times can take a full day to get over to. I'm generally an armpit shooter but my advice is to anchor them with a shoulder shot with whatever rifle you take.

As far as a rifle, the 300 Win Mag would be just fine but unnecessary. Since it seems you're willing to spend for quality, you may want to look at an Andriondak or Ascent, or possibly a Rem ti of some sort in 7-08, 6.5 Creed or something similar. I wouldn't touch another tikka of any flavor with 'Flaves cock. For bullets anything you'd use for deer would be just fine for goats.

There is nothing wrong with having two .270s. Or three .30-06, three .223s, four .30-30s, or five .22s. Makes ammo selections simple. As to the .270, one is a heavyweight pre-war standard M 70, and the other is a fairly light switch barrel job.

Jack

Is that how he pulls the trigger? Why so down on Tikka's?

8 I like your original choice best!!

Might also want to consider the Barrett Fieldcraft in 6.5 Creedmoor. That would be my choice.

There is a big difference between a 100 lb 2 year old and a 350 lb mature billy, an older billy is built like a tank and has solid bone structure. Most of the time they go down pretty quick when hit correctly but sometimes they can soak up the lead and not go down very easily. If you hit them poorly you can have a real mess on your hands.

From my time guiding for them and hunting them with friends I put the 30-06 near the top of the list, I forgot about the 7mm Rem Mag Steelhead mentioned for some reason but it is great too. Lots of bullets work great of course but I'm partial to the Accubonds, they open up fast but still are tough enough to penetrate well if needed In the 30-06 either one of the 150-165 gr Accubonds or similar would be perfect although I did shoot a goat with the 180 gr version in a 30-06 that worked well...............

I have seen them shot with everything from a 260 Rem to 9.3x62 and not surprisingly they all work fine. The guy I guided for really liked the 338 WM for goats and liked some of the bigger 300 magnums. This year I'm going to carry my 35 Whelen with 200 gr Accubonds again, it's the lightest gun I own and will work great if we run into a grizzly. Have yet to shoot a goat with the Whelen so really hope it happens this year

Edit to add, I goats are one animal I like something a bit more powerful like a 30-06 or bigger but the one I shot with the 260 Rem died quick.

I doubt it since he has stated his interest in a T3. It would likely be fine for what the OP wants one for, but I can't stand the look, feel and function of them.

They feel like a kid's toy, have way too much plastic on them, haven't been nearly as accurate (for me) as they seem to be for others, and aren't throated like I prefer. I've had a few, and instantly regretted buying them with no seller's remorse as I got rid of them ASAP. As always, other's experience and opinions may vary.

]


Most mountain hunts I do involve traveling through brown bear country, the 338WM just feels right from start to finish, even if it is a bit heavy...I did just pick up a Lightweight Hunter in 6.5 CM that I got for mountain hunting

I wouldn't go with the .300 or any other mag. I would probably look into a short action actually. Possibly the .260 rem, or a 7mm-08, on a synthetic, stainless, lightweight, short rifle. Yep, that sounds about right...
-Jake

When I draw a goat tag I'll be packing my Kimber MT 84L in 270. It has its barrel shortened to 22.5". About as perfect a sheep/goat gun as I can imagine.

Cartridges I've used or seen used to kill goats

30/06, 280 Rem, 270 Win, 300 Wthby, 6mm/284, 7mm RM.

Worse kill, was the guy that 'hump' shot a goat with the 300 Wthby, it was a right proper goat roping.

The .280 would be my pick of that litter.

This would be my 1st choice, 2nd would be a 7mm-08.

As far as bullets, there are a whole bunch from 120 to 160gr that would work from the mono's to the target style hunting bullets at normal hunting ranges. It will be harder to find a bullet that does not work.

Long range shooting will require a slippery bullet and a whole lot more trigger time.

Ive hunted sheep with a kimber montana in 308. Its always worked but I havnt shot a goat with it before, I would though.

I recently fell into a good deal on a kimber mountain ascent in 270 and I wouldnt hesitate to take that either. For a loooong time, All I had was a 270, I wanted to use my money to pay for hunts rather than new toys and that 270 worked perfectly for about a decade on moose, sheep (dall, barbary), elk and all sorts of deer. Lots of people tried telling me that I needed a better gun but I was having way more success on my hunts than any of them were.

If I were going to buy instead of build it would be one of these.
http://www.winchesterguns.com/produ...tion/model-70-featherweight-compact.html
http://www.winchesterguns.com/produ...t-production/model-70-featherweight.html

Orhttp://www.ruger-firearms.com/products/HawkeyeCompact/specSheets/37140.html?buy=1

Skinned more than a few goats and worked bone from them... the only NA game I have found with harder bone is caribou... but goat bone is significantly thicker-walled! And they are built solid! TTSX is all one needs and their comments against them is a comment more on the toughness of goats coupled with their unique anatomy. Hard to shoot them exactly right when their mop prevents you from seeing the parts.

I would go short action for a light-weight mountain rifle and keep the cartridge down to a 7-08 or similar. Larger cartridges weigh considerably more and are not needed.

Never came off a goat or sheep hunt wishing for a heavier rifle...

Never heard anyone else fresh off a mountain hunt regretting they did not carry a heavier rifle.

Tikka would not be on my radar, but that is personal choice...
You do not need a Hubble for a simple mountain rifle and enough weight could be saved to make a significant difference.

Comments about losing 10 pounds off the body to put on the rifle are foolish from the start. There is a huge difference between a pound on the body or attached to a pack and a pound of free weight swinging in the hand. It makes a very big difference.

+2.

As I get older I prefer lighter, lower recoiling rifles, although my .300WM and .338WM still get used. While I've never hunted goats or sheep (and have zero desire to do so), I do hunt elk. IF I were going after goats or sheep I'd look for a light rifle chambered for a flat shooting cartridge in the .257 to 7mm range.

130 gr in .270 is plenty for sheep/goat. Shot my first two rams with 100 gr in .243. Bang. Flop. 20 yards and 100 yards approx.

6.5 would be a real good one too. Mine likes 140's but lighter would work, especially with premiums, which are not really necessary for anything, unless for accuracy reasons.

A straight fixed 6X scope is also an excellent choice.

You're correct of course and no argument about it, but, on the other hand, I've never come off a mountain with a 9 lb 338 and said "that damn heavy rifle ruined my hunt". ... In any event, I am 95% sure I'll be taking the 6 1/2 lb, 6.5 creedmoor on my next alpine outing.....must be getting old

My choice when building was a Rem 600 barreled into 284 Win years ago by Mickey Coleman. Have brass and 140 Barnes so far.

Have never shot the gun, never even put the action back into the stock to rebed either... Will when I have to.

Doesn't mean I"m right, just ended up being my choice.

If I ever get drawn I would likely tote my 280. An old M70 in an edge stock and a fairly svelte 23" barrel. Its around 7.5#'s ready to go. The 150 BT has been a great bullet in it.

If I were to buy new, It'd be a toss up between a Montana, T3 superlite, or even a Howa alpine.

I wouldn't care much about the chambering as long as it was 6.5 to .308 and a case capacity between the Creed and the '06.

I'm still a big fan of the leupold 6x42.

Not an expert, but my conclusion from a sample of one (solo backpack hunt) is that goats do carry a lot of lead for there size. The average 9" billy I shot required 3 Nosler 180 Partitions from a 30-06 to fully anchor him for good. Then he still managed to do the tumble! Like anything else, shot placement first, cartridge second. Follow that rule and any middle road rem-chester will do the trick. Me, I'd take a 270, 280, 30-06 that weighed no more than 7.5 lbs.

taking a 300 win mag to northern b.c this sept for goat/moose hunt, loves 180 gr ttsx, model 70 that redneck made for me, fits me very well

Go pick up the Kimber mountain ascent on the classifieds in 308. Sub 5lbs, recoil not bad...

Keep me from buying it!!!!

You may want to look at a 6.5x55 Swede. Light recoil, excellent ballistics with modern loads.

Solid advice!

Plus knowing the country you call home, there are a fair amount of respectable critters local to you. I have seen more goats and sheep in that part of the state than anywhere.

Funny where they can end up though. Sometimes in places you would not at all expect.

Have the current barrel recontoured to a lighter weight. Easy peesy!
PM me and I will send a name of a guy who is competent.

Twice I have been given the Weatherby Kiss by my 30-06 while using an alder for support in the mountains of Kodiak. Every shot I took up there involved an awkward position. I used alders, a jacket draped over a rock or my backpack as a field rest. You use what's close and it's rarely like a bench rest. My 243 and 257 Roberts never left me with a nasty gash in my forehead and blood running down my face. I mild recoiling rifle on a diet is just the ticket for mountain hunting.

Man that's a lot of rifle!

I'd be taking a 6.5 or 7mm on a short action.... like a 7 WSM or 6.5 SAUM or even step it down to 7-08 or Creed.

A 7.5# 300 WM would border on the unshootable (in any kind of volume) for me. I like to shoot.

Like the scope choice!

Years ago, I was stationed in Alaska with USAF. I hunted Dall sheep with a co-worker as a guide and we both brought .308 rifles for this adventure. We saw many sheep but getting within reasonable shooting distance was a challenge. My partner shot his ram at a distance of approx 125 yards while mine was taken at about 150 yards. Both were one shot kills in very steep country.

Sherwood