I recently returned from a hunt in Northern BC and the guide carried a 30 year old Ruger 77 wood blue 338 win mag with a Leupold - 2-7x33. The gun had been used hard - very little stock finish left, no blueing at all and covered in rust and the scope was severely dinged up - however the gun still shot, held poi, and the guide had full confidence in it.

It got me thinking about putting together a rifle setup this winter after hunting season with the idea of producing a working rifle that would be bomb proof - much like this guides rifle. My use for it mainly would be setup as a backup/loaner rifle that I could loan out as needed but something that needs to be a step above a RAR or the like. This project would also cure some rifle looneyism this winter.

Anyways, this is what I am thinking:
Ruger Hawkeye Stainless 30/06 or 338 OR possibly a Older Model 77 that had the iron sights from the factory on it.
Black McMillan Ruger Pattern Stock
6x40 Meopta in Ruger rings.

Bed the rifle, tweak trigger as needed, and get everything mounted and secured. Such a setup could take a whole lot of abuse for a whole lot of years and would make one heck of a near "bomb proof" setup. Thought?

IMHO the M77 mk II is one of if not the best rough duty hunting bolt action rifles made. I don't recall hearing of their bolt handles falling off, triggers rusting up and I've yet to fire one that wouldn't shoot reasonably well with factory ammo, and likely better with handloads. Unless you just want to spent money, the factory tupperware stocks are fully functional.

First three handloads I put through my 350 rem mag allweather M77 mkII



Gun hand a grand total of 10 factory loads through it, nothing done to the trigger or stock and was topped with a 2.5x compact leupold.

Seems like bedding it, tweaking it and dropping it in a mccmilan stock is the opposite of what the guide had.

That guides rifle had taken abuse for a whole lot of years without a thousand dollars of upgrades. I get what youre trying to do but what you are describing isnt the same thing and isnt nearly as cool as what the guide had.

Sounds like a SS Hawkeye or boat paddle Ruger in factory form (tune trigger) and a Leupold 4x or 6x and you'd be happily in business for a long time.

Go for it. But, take some advice.....I've gotten bored a lot in the winter, and found myself working on "projects" that didn't make much sense to me later on.

Hiaring8, That was my attempt in 1989. One rifle for everything, except maybe pass shooting geese . A Win. 70 (push feed) action (tefloned)Douglass SS barrel, folding express sights, McMillan stock, Pachmyar pad, Leupold QD base/rings ( with 2 Leupold scopes same zero's). Same set-up every year, same bullet ( though I did change about 4 years ago), same charge, and same zero. memtb

Exactly

Ruger 77 rebarreled to 35 Whelen with a 20" SS barrel bedded into a factory wood stock was my "always ready and never let me down" Alaska rifle for 8 seasons. I killed about everything up there besides sheep and goats with it and some form of 250gr bullet, never needed to shoot anything twice either.

Yea, that has happened once or twice....I don't really have any big winter plans - this idea is as close as I have and not 100% sure on if I even want to do it....

Montana Rifle Company in whatever is their current synthetic. Have a .338Fed. Shoots well and I doubt if one will break it easily.

If you can find a tikka stainless in 9.3x62 with your choice of 2-10 power scope.

Oh and my 77 has always worn a 2.5 Leupold in factory rings. Shot stuff out past 300 yards with it more than once and never wanted more, was never worried about having too much magnification up close either.

I got a Ruger Hawkeye African (black with walnut stock, express sights, and no muzzle brake in front). I din't want to mess-up the walnut stuck and bought a McMillan "classic," I believe, (around $500.00) with a Decelerator recoil pad. Also, I got a gunsmith to check my LOP before I ordered the stock, and McMillan cut it to the right length to include the recoil pad. This stock does not need bedding, so I din't do anything to it. Mounted a nice Leopold scope on it.

It sounds like what drew you to the rifle was it's character which sounds like was well earned. And I'm not sure that a man can re-create that in the shop. But, that's my opinion.

Sounds like a job for a 98 Mauser chambered in 338-06. Stock and trigger to your fancy!

The MRC 1999 is available in stainless, has the claw extractor (CRF), 70-style open trigger, 3-pos. 70-style safety, gas flange on the bolt shroud, c-collar like a 98, and one piece bolt (no handle to fall off). I'm not sure how robust the bolt stop design is, however.

I like the 77/Hawkeyes, and in theory the ringmounts seem bombproof. I believe the claw extractors are now MIM, and recall some stating failures. I don't like the safety as well as the 70 style, but that is just me.

There are reports of newer Win 70 rifles with bolt handles coming off. I think Brian Pearce has written about it, and D'Arcy Echols pins the handles. Of course, there is no c-collar, nor gas flange on the bolt shroud. The little gas baffle that clips to the bolt body doesn't seem effective, based on the reports I've heard.

I'm sure there are more details that I'm missing.

As much as I like these types of discussions, I bet metal corrosion and scope/ring/mount issues are bigger problems but I don't have any experience making a living with a bolt action in the cold and wet

I was in a similar situation a few years back. I found myself with a bunch of "specialty" rifles but no all around/loaner riles so it was the perfect reason to buy a few.

at the time I had lightweight mountain rifles and a few nice big bore rifle so I wanted to get backups/loaners guns that I could just haul out and not even think about. I was looking for things I wouldn't upgrade, id just slap a scope on them, throw them in the skiff, on the snow machine, loan out, not worry too much about maintaining them past the basics.

What I ended up with was a Winchester 70 extreme conditions in 30-06 with a Leupold 3-9x40 and a Ruger Hawkeye all weather in 270. Over the years those 2 guns have been on more hunts than any of the expensive ultra lites and big bores. I still use those, but they are sort of purpose driven guns. When I go for blacktails or sheep, I take one of my kimbers or even a Weatherby, For bears, I pull out my 375HH (hopefully I'll use it for bison or muskox at some point.

For everything else, as long as im not backpacking in, its either the Ruger or a Winchester, if Im boating, floating, horseback riding or day hunting, Ill all take one every time. I don't sweat it if I ding them up, I dry them off and run a patch through the barrel and thats about it, no modifications.

A few years back when I moved to Alaska, I was convinced that everybody was going to be rocking high end custom big bore rifles, what I found was that most people I met outide of the road system were using rifles much like that your guide had. The first guy I ever went moose hunting with was/is a hardcore subsistance hunter, he hunts strictly for meat, his rifle was an old browning xbolt 338WM, I was sort of embarassed to be all decked out in gear with a nice gun when this guy showed up to get me wearing a yellow rubber rain jacket with his beater old rifle. Now I sort of try to mimic the locals a bit more than I used to.

I have a Model 70XTR that was fixed up and customized by Red Morton in 1981. It is a push feed 300 Win Mag with a Bell and Carlson Medalist stock and a simple Leupold 4X with lyman target dot with weaver bases and rings. It holds 4 down and feeds like poop through a goose. It is one rifle that would be the last rifle I would sell or trade. 1st moose, 1st sheep, 1st black bear, 1st grizzly- thing shoots about 1.5 moa after thousands of rounds. I hunted exclusively with that rifle for about 15 years. Somehow when the time comes it kills. It has made some wonderful shots. I have thought about fixing it up with a new mcmillan stock and cerakoting. Maybe put a hart match barrel or a Proof research barrel on it. It weighs about 9 lbs all up but it points right and someways I just want to make memories with other rifles.

I would take an old quality M98
Feed it with stripper clips
Keep the orginal trigger
Original safety
Put a heavy duty peep sight on rear bridge
McMillan stock
In 9.3x62

Like Darcy Echols has done to this Win 70

My "go to work rifle" is a Remington 700 in .30-06. I have shot 25+ deer with it, countless other critters as it serves as a truck rifle also....

My sister, wife, father, grandfather and several friends have all used it from time to time. It's beat up. Has dings in the stock.

But it shoots dang good. And when it's really time to kill a deer that's typically what I grab. And it typically works.

Lots of other options, and it's nothing fancy.

I don't think you can build that over a single winter. It's gotta be something you've drug around with you for a while.

-Jake

My version of what you describe is a Ruger 77 Stainless/Zytel in .35 Whelen and cut to 20" with a Remington front sight and NECG rear ghost ring.

It is scoped at the moment for load development. I may keep it scoped and just keep the NECG handy for a backup situation. I have been playing with 225 grain loads (Sierra and Barnes) as well as 158 grain pistol loads. Seems to be a very handy and versatile low maintenance rig as long as ranges are reasonable. Hopefully in another 15-20 years of guiding my kids around Montana it will have some of the character you described in the guide's rifle.

my 2 cents worth: whose recommendations you get and trust are most important. I wouldn't put much worth on the guy who says "this is what works good for me." we all have our favorite actions, scope models, mounts, loads, etc, etc. etc. etc. Next, I'd disregard almost all of what any gun writer says. Very, very few of them have ever spent that much time in the outback of alaska and canada and when they do, they're "field testing" some new gun, scope, etc. There are precious few guides and outfitters in those areas that really know that much about gun design and what works year in and year out. There may be more, but II know only one personally, and that is Phil Shoemaker who posts on this forum from time to time. My son guides for him but surely is not a gun guy either. One of Phil's other guides IS a gun guy with tons of experience in what works and doesn't when it comes to equipment in the out-back. Its interesting talking to him about this stuff. He will tell you that little things like trigger designs can make or break your hunt in tough conditions because he's seen it. I would caution paying much attention to guys who say "I'm been to Alaska x times and my stuff worked great." I've hunted Alaska several times but would never consider myself all that knowledgeable on it. The one thing I would tell you that I'm very certain of when it comes to equipment is "keep it as simple as possible." Simple trigger designs, scopes (as in fixed powers) and gun designs that have proven themselves reliable over decades of hard use: way more important than accuracy.

I have a Ruger Gunsite Scout Rifle in 308 Win. Mine is in stainless and laminate with an 18" plus some 1/10s barrel length. For my purposes this gun has it all for a knock-a-bout all purpose rifle. You could probably have it bored to 338 Fed. if you are not satisfied with 308 Win. It is built like a tank. Extremely accurate and shoots most factory ammo very well. Has option for scout scope or standard scope mounting. Also, comes with a very good ghost ring in case your scope goes south. This gun is built like a tank, has spacers for an adjustable stock. This one will do what you want off the shelf.

Well, my hunting rifle is a ruger hawkeye and I regret getting it. It's going to take a lifetime to break it and have an excuse to buy another one.

I understand. I had a similar problem. I eventually resolved the issue by barrel length. I have a Ruger M77 in 35 Whelen with a 24" barrel. Everyone knows a guy has to have a short barrel rifle to offset the long barrel rifle. Only way to balance everything out. Just common sense.

Model 70 Classic SS everyday of the week (2x on Sun) over a Ruger 77. My working rifle in .35 Whelen.

One of the most sought after rifles in my part of Northern B.C is the old stainless boat paddle Rugers from the early 90's. They are just behind the Win model 70. I like the older Ruger rifles but can't warm up to the new ones due to the investment casting.

Nice moose above

I approve of those sights!!!

Hate to bust your bubble but Ruger has never made a 77 that wasn't investment cast.

I would say the Ruger stainless boat paddle with open sights would be a great choice, top it with a quality fixed 4x scope, maybe a Leupold or a Japanese Weaver.

A more traditional choice would be a Mauser, the old FN's were great, again open sights and a quick detach scope mount.

A properly modified M98 with a fiberglass stock would be a excellent choice.

30-06, 35 Whelen, 338-06, 9.3x62 would be top choices for chamberings, an advantage they have over magnums is magazine capacity. An extra round on board is an advantage.

Muskeg, looks great, but get that poor rifle some irons for a pre-rut present!

My setup for this sort of thing is a New Haven Classic Stainless in 9.3x62 with NECG front sight, Talley QDs with their peep sight, and a Leupold 2-7 with custom dots out to 400 yards for 286gr Noslers at 2400. It's in a McMillan but for the purposes of this thread factory plastic likely is just as good. What I like about this set up is reliability, ruggedness, and accuracy, in that order. My rifle gets used year round for hunting and bear protection. It's a fishing, hiking, berry picking, camping, trapping, hunting rifle. It gets rained on, dunked in salt water, frozen, fallen on, rubbed on rocks, used as a hiking staff, and so on. It's never failed me and I don't expect it to. It's 50/50 between the scope and peep sight. I think the Hawkeye/77 is equally suitable for these purposes.

I have an '06 and a .375 with the same set up. The only difference is these two have factory front sight ramps.

Someone here referred to Ruger Americans as "backyard rifles" I agree and would include most other rifles made these days in that category. I own some of them, but I don't count on them for real use as my primary rifle for where I live and the places I go.

Not bursting my bubble makes no difference to me either way. But your right they have been cast since what late 60's.

The guys I guided for had a pair of stainless boat paddle Ruger 77 MK II's in 338 WM that were very well used. They even were quite rusty but worked well, the outfitter decided to do a Winchester model 70 in 9.3x64 just to try something different but he told me the 338 was all you needed for guiding. They stopped grizzlies under the worst of conditions and lived to tell the tale.

No surprise to me, and heard such anecdotes re: the M77 more than once previously.

As common modern commercial rifles go, This is my number one choice, and using the Zytel® 'skeleton' stock with factory sights. I know of many very satisfied 300 Wing Mag users so set up.

I think of tough rifles as being the rifle most likely to survive and still function after being tossed out a SuperCub door to reinforce someone in need. I can think of no rifle that fits that better (in modern terms). I like my M70s, but they aren't quite 'there'.

http://echolsrifles.blogspot.ca

Klik, didn't you have a M77 .223 which survived some epic ordeal a few years ago? Like tarped up in a sled for months or something?[quote=Klikitarik]

That's what I'm thinking..

Yep, I was wondering where he was going with that statement.... To the OP, check out a guy named Phil Schoemaker (458win here) and see what he uses. Nothing wrong with using a stainless Ruger 77, old Mauser or Stainless model 70 chambered in 30-06, 338wm, or even the 9.3x62mm. All great choices...

Sheesh, glad it wasn't something more embarrassing... I'm not sure if the worse abuse was 'sweating' inside that blue tarp for a few months or getting beaten, fairly uncushioned, on a sled for over 500 miles of Yukon River and coastal trail.

375 Ruger Guide Gun with a Leupold VX3 2.5-8x36mm using Alaskan Arms quick detach rings. Then have New England Custom Ruger Ghost Ring Peep Sight that attach were rear receiver.

Yup, but asside from the rough unmachined surfaces such as the bolt raceways I don't have any issues with Ruger investment casting their parts. Anyone who's drilled and tapped the trigger housing for an overtravel screw has an appreciation for how strong the alloy is. I'm not going to say no one has blown up an M77, because it's impossible to build something stupid proof, but they are very strong actions.

M77's are like a typical Ruger firearm, extremely strong, reasonably accurate, very reliable, reasonably priced, a little rough in a few spots and maybe a tad heavier than the competition. They may not garner an emotional response and following, but it's a pretty safe bet they can be used hard for your lifetime and passed onto the next generation.

Savage hog hunter in 338

Twenty five years ago, just getting back into hunting, I bought a Century Arms sporter for $230. It was a WWII Mauser action they screwed a new 30-06 barrel onto, some Weaver bases and a black plastic stock. I bought a Weaver 2x - 10x for it at the same time. It was my primary hunting rifle until I started acquiring some "nicer" guns, then it became my foul weather piece, then backup and loaner. It shot great and I killed a lot of deer with it. I sold it this year to a young guy who was looking for something more powerful than his 223. My primary backup gun these days is a hardwood stocked Marlin 30-30.

I'd have a really hard time not picking a 30-06 in whatever configuration you prefer.

For a factory rifle, just get a Ruger MKII or Hawkeye stainless in 30-06, leave it in the factory plastic stock which is quite stiff and light in its own right, and has some very prominent checkering molded-in for grip.

Leupold's 4x with a heavy duplex would do what you need to do anywhere. Factory open sights would be great but are about impossible to find anymore, so you'd probably have to have them added if desired.

I'm thinking for me it would be a pre 64 70 Fw bored out or rebarreled to 338.....338-06 a squair would be perfict...topped with 1.5 x5 leupold in QR rings....McMillan stock....would weigh about 61/2 -7 lbs....I actually have collected all the parts but haven't had the heart to bore out a perfectly good 06 FW barrel....I will run across one with a pitted bor someday. ...

My working farm rifle is a ruger boat paddle 223. It rides in the pickup or combine or whatever....I find the safety gets dusty and gritty over time....I have carried a mod 70 some without issue....Remington 700 s I love but triggers design is prone to freezing if wet and temps drop...sako never fails....
I recall a friend in Alaska showing pictures of his float trip he does every few years....they float the river in a raft and kill moose and bears..carabu."...he had his 80 year old father with him...to save weight they took only one rifle....so he found a picture with the rifle in it....it was an old Springfield 06 in a Fajin stock with a well warn weaver on it with all the bluing gone....it was laying on a huge pile of meat and horns....he said it's the only rifle his dad ever had....can you imagine how much meat it has put in the freezer..

I have one of those in .338WM (M77 MKII stainless steel) and a Leopold Var-X III 2.5-8x. Started using in 1994 and never let me down when moose hunting. The storage thing about this rifle is that it shoots quite well from a cold and clean barrel. I have never had the need to take a third shot on moose, but it always shoots straight and +2 at 100 yards. I never adjust the scope nor anything on it, but clean it to remove dust or mud every couple of nights at the campsite. The rifle shot that way from day one, so I never take a fouling shot.

There is a really nice mos 70 classic with a McMillan stock in the classifieds ....this thing would be my choice for Canada. It's a 338wm

I've been looking at this for a few days, but I don't plan to buy it so I will pass it along.

Looks like a dang good deal on a hard to find rifle to me:

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/703307776

Ray, you got to love a rifle like that. I know a lot of guys around here who use stainless Ruger m77 mkII 338wm for their elk rifles. I've had more than a few myself and love them. Excellent "utilitarian" rifles for DAMN sure.... Come to think of it, I know where a like new one is sitting in a rifle rack at a small LGS. IF it's still there in a couple weeks when I am elk scouting in that area, I may just end up taking it home with me....

I believe the claw extractors are now MIM, and recall some stating failures.

Never heard either of those things.

The extractor may well be machined from the same type of investment (lost-wax?) casting as the rest of the action, but I've never heard of one failing, ever.

I want to like the M-77, but the action screws and the scope ring screws on the ones that I've owned keep shooting loose.

Any ideas on how to stop that?


Okie John

Are the MK II stocks less painful than the Tangers were?

Would think a thread locker like loctite should do the trick. Use purple 222 loctite for screws up to 1/4". Be careful to not let any excess drip where it shouldn't go. Doesn't take much.

Loctite 222 Threadlocker Purple

I tried that. No luck. A 30-06 and a 338 both shot loose every 30-40 rounds even after I torqued the screws in repeatedly.


Okie John

When screws loosen, it is usually because the receiver is moving in the bedding when the rifle is fired. Pillar bedding fixes it. GD

I really like the Ruger Mk II's over the Hawkeyes. I also prefer the Zytel stocks over the black tuperwares. It's easy to add a Limbsaver on the Zytel stocks and man it doesn't make a difference the caliber they are very easy to handle. I prefer 30-06 and 338WM either will make a handy working rifle for anything I can think of. The MK II Stainless has very tight pores and while you can get some freckling, they fight off rust pretty well. Those Ruger sights are nice and handy as well. Course if you need a working rifle you need a back up. MIne are Winchesters mod 70's. My 338 is a push feed but my 30-06 is a classic stainless. Actually both are stainless. So long as you have 2 rifles in the same caliber that shoots the same bullet you should be good.

308 Hawkeye All Weather, VX-2 2-7X33 in a Ruger Zytel. Trigger worked to 3lbs with some other aftermarkets. Thought I would like the Zytel, but the full Zytel paint job by my grand kids gets the nod.

That's my trio of rough service rifles. M70 EW in .270 Winchester, M70 Classic FWT with McMillan Hunters Edge blind magazine in .30-06, and M70 Classic with McMillan Hunters Edge in .338-06. The .270 got a face lift with a McMillan FWT Edge stock and Leupold VX3 3.5-10X40 and weighs 7lbs 13oz all up with 6 rounds of 130 grain ammo and mountain sling. The .30-06 and .338-06 both have Leupold 2.5-8X36 optics and weigh 7lbs 2oz and 8lbs 8oz respectively all up.

I never had Ruger action screws loosening. About half-way on this video you can see how to tighten the action screws of the M77 MK II and Hawkeye, and like others have mentioned a little Loctite helps too. I just don't use it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KGAYS91BDk

Thanks.


Okie John

Nice.


DMc

Our Alaskan family uses 30-06's, most Winchesters, have found cerakote works well for protecting them in harsh camping conditions. Use 220 Hornady handloads and 180 federal trophy bondeds with great success. I prefer levers with peep sights and use mod 94 356 for most hunting and a mod 71 for moose using 250 woodleighs. Most any rifle will work fine if you can hit and use a proper bullet.

To the OP,

if a well used Ruger is what you are wanting, why not buy a Ruger and just use the hell out of it until it looks like that?

Or just buy one that's already beat up. http://www.djsloanandsportinc.com/ has several Ruger tang-safety 338's that look like they've been drug behind a truck.


Okie John

Ruger M77 Mark II All Weather in Zytel Stock (7mm Rem Mag, 30-06, 338 Win Mag or 35 Whelen)
Leupold FX-II 4x33 or 6x36
Nosler Partitions
Limb Saver Recoil Pad

I've posted this before, but I think it fits with the thread.

The "working rifle", or "backcountry rifle", "practical rifle", "wandering rifle", "wilderness rifle", or "professional's rifle" is my very favorite.

I've usually had one such rifle in the house since rifle-nuttery set in.

I understand the praise for the SS M77 MKII, and have had a number, including a 338 WM with open sights / Zytel stock. It didn't shoot worth a hoot, and I think it's overly heavy. For me the M77 is just too rough, and the safety sucks. But it is practicality embodied, and if I lived in the bush it might very well be my choice. It's bomb proof top to bottom, and is more rust-resistant than anything else out there.

However, I prefer the M70, so built my ideal around that action (old-style trigger).

Pictured is a SS M70 Fwt 30-06 (what other cartridge could it be really?).

21" barrel, Bansner Stock, NECG Classic Rear Sight, XS Sights front, Low Burris Zee's over Warne/Weaver Bases. Leopold 2-7x33.

I think a rifle of this category NEEDS backup iron's and a removable scope.

Obviously there are many ways to an end, but this is the one I crafted in 2004.

180 NP's at 2,780 takes in a world of hunting.

I'm currently contemplating its replacement, a lighter version with slightly heavier barrel, but the original concept will be completely intact.

Let me know if you decide to sell this one.


Okie John

Brad, that is a great looking set up.

Still I like and prefer the 338 Win.

Me, too.

I guess under the right conditions that could work.

Re a "working rifle" - years ago I set up an already sporterized Model of 1917 to be my "rough and tumble" rifle. About the time the project was more or less complete, some young man in my home decided that he needed it for a bear rifle...



1917 action, six-shot magazine, gov't 30-06 barrel bobbed to 21" and the whole thing is bedded in a Bell & Carlson stock, with a fixed 6x Leupold atop.

To "complete" the rifle, I should re-install the Lyman receiver sight and the front sight. And have the rifle cerakoted.

In the meantime, it's served the young fellow well. He's taken two bear and I think two bucks with it. Very good "rough and tumble" rifle that I think would serve well pretty much anywhere.

Guy

I think you were hoping all along he would grab that rifle!

Okie, I have had the 77 series Ruger front action screw loosen also.

I have noticed some the newer Hawkeye,s front action screw have a detent or dimple in the screw. Which should help to keep them tight.

I have called Ruger and bought or requested torx style replacment screws, to get them to proper torque which helps in keeping them tight, in unbedded wooden front stock screw will loosen due too amount of moisture in wood.

I use epoxy pillars in my wood stock Rugers to keep them tight, and bedded to prevent breakage.

If my MK 2 or Hawkeyes quit shooting well , first thing I check is front action screw. Kurt

Just get a Ruger Gunsite rifle.

I've got lots of rifles but the one I keep coming back to and trust more than anything else is a Husqvarna 98 in 30-06. I've put a model 70 style three position safety on it and put it in a Basner stock. It has Talley Lightweights and a Weaver Grandslam fixed 4.75x. The barrel was cut back to a very handy 21 inches and it shoots good enough. I honestly have never had to shoot something twice with that rifle. It just works.

Well, yeah.. He's the fourth generation of our family to use that rifle, in different configurations. I first shot it about 45 years ago.

Regards, Guy

Ruger boat paddle and "Happily in business" are not even in the same hemisphere, let alone zip code!!!

Worst commercial rifle stock of all time, IMO&E...

Ruger boat paddle and "Happily in business" are not even in the same hemisphere, let alone zip code!!!

Worst commercial rifle stock of all time, IMO&E...

Seriously good point and well-said!

Yeah, just like Darcy does it and keep it under a hundred!

No one with friends he likes would EVER do that!

No one with friends he likes would EVER do that!

Exactly!

Exactly!

Not sure where that came from, but tangers are a very, very well-designed stock and far from painful. The MKII, not so much...

For many years of back-up while guiding I used a 77 tanger in 300WM with a Leupold fixed 3x. In those days I thought the bullet sun rose and set in a small central Oregon town... or some small Idaho burg struggling to cross the line.

The rifle now gets handed around as a loaner, often for extended periods of time, and has left a hefty blood trail in a good number of places... It loves the TTSX line-up...

These days I use a custom-stocked 700 in 30-06 with a Vortex 4-16x44HS for most everything of size. It has worked well for the last several bull moose with 168gr TTSX.

This year I decided to start stretching things to see how far I had to go to catch a TTSX. Looks like a 700 in 7-08 with 145 gr TTSX in a bull moose can get it done! Just takes a raking shot through the ribs, spine, off-side scapula, a bunch of meat, and a piece of really thick hide to catch one!

Moose died.

Military designs like M98 and Lee-Enfield proved themselves very much in that manner, long before any custom gunsmith
got their hands on them trying to make a buck out of selling candy shop 'pimprovements' on them, none of which really
make a rifle bomb proof, if anything they can compromise reliable function.

My "rugged" hunting rifle is left-handed Ruger Hawkeye in 308Win with McMillian stock and fixed Leupie 4x scope. As new hand loader, I haven't decided on bullet choice yet.

I worked as a guide in the 70's and 80's and carried a old Husquvarna that was a heavier rifle but I was young.These days when I pitch in I take a little Browning BLR takedown-it is great. I can take it down in a storm and put it in a dry pack anytime. Packs great on a horse.Cheers

Didn' Ruger kind of invent the process....

We could take a lesson from Dick Preniky..."alone in The wilderness". For those who haven't watched it...dick disappeared in the Alaska wilderness to live out his retirement...he took a rifle with him....stayed for 30 years.....the rifle ...a model 70 30-06

Yeah, they did. They made golf clubs and all sorts of stuff for other companies with that process.

Hand drills come to mind...a dealer I knew was a big ruger collector and had a ruger hand drill....
I'll bet they said what can we use this investment cast process to really make money....how about knock of single action revolver....

I think RU 77s have always been investment casting? No "older" or "newer".....

I have two RU77 Tang models that you could not pry me from. Both are blued/wood, tho for my uses I would prefer SS and plastic... I'm hard on rifles.

One is a .338WM, self worked on, after purchase, 2nd hand at fair market value. Didn't work very well factory standard. Glass bedded, free floated, factory trig tuned to 3.25 or so poundage. As light as I could get it safely. Stick-on rubber cheek piece added to accomodate my long neck. I installed a .260 base and .260 blade front, silver soldered on, in case the scope goes tits. Rear sight is a V filed into the higher integral scope base. I always disliked those Ruger high sights. This one is low profile, zeroed at 100 with 250 gr loads.

The other RU77 Tang (.30-06) is a "deplorable" picked up for $80. Chopped the muzzle bulge out to 17 inch bbl length, glass-bedded /free floated the stock, worked factory trigger down to about 3#., refinished water damaged stock, chopped that fore and aft , and slimmed forend to make it propotion to eye-appealing '"for the wife". Mostly, I use it, with a 1" slip on recoil pad over the Decelerator pad (which the .338 also sports, to my LOP).

Basically, I anticipated Ruger's "carbine" models by about 10 years...

And, by the way- both shoot 1.25 MOA or better with factory loads, and mo-better with certain fire-formed handloads. The .338 prefers shoulder headspacing to rim.

The whole Alaska / Canada working rifle blueprint is very appealing to me. The first custom rifle I built back 25yrs ago was based on this basic concept.
Stainless rifle weren't as common back then and I am a Mauser guy.

So I built mine on a 1909 Argentine Mauser action. 338 Win. mag 22" barrel. NECG open sights , early Warne quick detach rings.
Basner stock. Total weight 7.75lbs.

Here's my 'working" gun. Stock is an old Brown Precision. Bbl is a Lilja 1:12". The M78 was Remington's pre-SPS cheap version of the M700.

I like this rifle a lot.

Always liked that rig, Brad.

Same here. Non-stainless wouldn't bother me.

New guy here. Been lurking a long time and like this thread - especially that I can read many of my own thought patterns into what others have done or are doing.

Forever I'd only ever hunted with hand-me-down rifles: 30-06 pump action when I was a young buck through early 20's, then my dad's old 7mm when times were tough in my late 20's. Killed piles of deer & elk with those two rifles and they were definitely well worn and just awesome. Nothing particularly fancy either... cheap glass, corelokts etc.

Then I started earning a few dollars and decided it was high time I buy myself a proper rifle at the ripe old age of 37 for a goat hunt on Kodiak. Got myself a new Tikka and Vortex package in 7mm and punched a few tags. The combo was easy to shoot well, easy to carry and gave me no troubles. Then gave it to a good client when he retired as he planned to build the exact rifle setup I had. While it did everything I wanted, it was plain jane boring.

Enter my super duper high fancy Christensen Arms Ridgeline 308. Tiny, light, carbon fiber, titanium, accurate, real nice! Bought Feb of this year and I proceeded to put roughly 500 rounds down the pipe over the spring/summer. Took it to Alaska for a sheep/moose hunt and had the time of my life. But kept liking my party members' old 30-06's for the same reason the OP alluded to; the guns and their respective owners had earned all the dings and shooting them accurately was as natural as throwing rocks in water for my 2 year old son. I have my late fathers Ruger 30-06 in the safe and the old 7mm he gave me being rebuilt into a 257wby. One thing I learned with the CA is that a rifle can be too light and that a carbon fiber stock will chip when a wood or laminate stock might just get a small dent. I also discovered I really like short actions. And I like a gun that has been there done that and has the matching character and successes that always make great stories.

Recently, I bought myself a brand spanking new Browning xbolt medallion (blued/wood) in 300 wsm. The plan is to spend a small fortune shooting the hell out of it on all kinds of hunts until I die. Love the weight, feel and balance. I don't think you can buy a properly worn gun off the rack, but you can indeed buy one and live a great life with it, and that's what I intend to do.

When you can have one “go to” rifle, and you put all the “dings”,scratches”,etc. on it yourself..... you will carry the memories of those hunts with you to the grave! memtb

I like that!

Nice post and welcome to the forum.

My current, a 1996 Classic Stainless FWT 308 Win in a McMillan Hunters Edge Compact and PT&G Al Bottom Metal.

Shown with 6x36 LRD in Low Weaver's, but currently wearing 2-7x33 LRD in Talley X-Low Lwt's. A very consistent shooting rifle.

Just needs iron sights!

Welcome to the forum and thanks for the great post. Share your gun's great life with us as you go along please.

I've posted this pic many times but the ,338WM on the left would seem to me to be about ideal for the OP's purpose. The stainless barrel was fluted and (I think) trimmed to 22" by the original owner, who eventually went with a carbon-wrap barrel. I got it some years later and had it mounted on a stainless MKII action, then put it in a skeleton "boat paddle" stock. My load is a 225g AccuBond at a relatively sedate 2742fps. Sights are factory originals. Recoil is stiff but manageable. Right now it has a Burris FFII with their Ballistic Plex reticle, 3-9x. Don't know what the rifle weighs, but a 4x or maybe 6x would bring the weight down a tad and perhaps improve reliability of the scope. (Not that I've ever had a problem with the Burris FFII's and I own a pile of them.)



The others are a .300WM (center) and a .30-06 (right), factory configs.

If i was building one today I'd go with the current Ruger synthetic stock. I have couple and like them. Suspect the original Zytel skeleton boat paddle stocks are a bit more durable as they are solid rather than hollow.

Here you go. Winchester New Haven classic,(old style trigger) 21" 308 1-11 Lilja featherweight, Mcmillan compact edge, NECG sights zeroed at 100Y. 5-168 Nosler BT's at 2700 under an 1" all day at 100. Shoots 118 LR, Federal match, M80 ball and factory ammo in decent groups, chambered with my 95 Palma reamer. Shoots tracer into a couple inches for s...

That is one sweet 308... perfect twist, and barrel length. Love the NECG sights. Which bottom metal? Factory 2-piece?

1 piece factory bottom metal. Funny thing is the housing is aluminum but the floor plate is SS.

Nice rifles Brad and rgrx. How much do they weigh?


Okie John

Rifle unloaded weighs 6 lbs 7 oz.
Scope and rings 1.75 Lbs

Total at 7 lbs 14 oz. Could come in under 7 lbs with a lighter scope like a 2x7 and weaver rings if weight becomes an issue.

Thanks.


Okie John

Exactly. Another good reason to glass bed your rifle..

Probably a pushfeed at that... .... Just kidding...

That's awesome. Not a damn thing wrong with that rifle. Just a bit heavy for some of these sissies here... Good suggestion IMHO though...

Me 3...

Yeah, that rifle Mr. Proenneke carried looks a lot like a 30-06 I used to own... .... Mine probably shot better though..

Here's an interesting Weaver ring failure. I wrapped up a typical Pacific Northwest wet-weather deer hunt last night and was watching TV in the same room where my lightweight Husqvarna 30-06 was drying out after having been drenched for the second time in as many weeks.

It's this rifle, but with a 4x Leupold instead of the VX-R 3-9x40.



I heard something hit the floor and bounce a couple of times. Turns out the cross bolt that goes through the saddle had broken like a button popping off of a fat man’s shirt.



To be fair, I’ve been using this ring for 25 years if not more. It’s been on several scopes and dozens of rifles (including two 308’s, more 30-06’s than I can remember, two 338-06’s, a 270, and a 35 Whelen) for thousands of full-power rounds. It’s also been soaked with rain without being dried out or cleaned countless times.

I had checked that rifle’s zero that afternoon, and it was hitting where it should have out to 320 yards, so maybe it was just time for it to go.

Another good reason to have properly-zeroed iron sights on your rifle plus a spare scope pre-zeroed in rings plus any tools you’ll need to swap them out.


Okie John

That's a beautiful rifle. It looks quite close to the .338WM Ruger Hawkeye African I own. Like yours mine does not have a muzzle brake, but has a McMillan stock that is not as fancy as yours. Mine is heavier, too.

Ruger M77s of various flavors seem to be popular around here for boat guns and whatnot. They hold up.

Wow!!!

That is the first failure of any sort I have seen with Weaver standard "fasteners" and it is a real question where the cause might be...

Looks like a case of "farmer tight" somewhere along the way and it just finally failed due to metal fatigue.

I am pretty sure I have one of those screws in my parts stash, if you can send me a picture of it, preferably with a set of calipers showing the head diameter, I will take a look and send you one. I am pretty sure that there were a couple of different head sizes/styles so I would need the pic and measurement to make sure I had the right one.

Sending a PM with my cell phone # you can send the pic to.

drover

That's exactly what I thought when I read Okie's post. It's easy to get in the farmer-tight habit with Weaver's.

Obviously anything man-made can and will break, but I still think Weaver's are among the most stupid simple, robust rings out there. Kind of like marrying a Minnesota farm girl. She may not be glamorous, but is someone to build a long life with

This may be the issue. I just got a torque wrench a few months ago, and it seems that I've been farmer-tightening everything for the last 40 years.


Okie John

Ruger 77 MKII stainless with the boat paddle stock. They're tougher than wood pecker lips!!! Trigger job if needed, free float the mag box, torque the front action screw to about 55 in/lb, the rear to about 45 in/lb, clean the firing pin and spring assembly and lube with Rem Drylube, install a front sight with a sourdough sight blade, get a NEGC peep sight, and mount the scope of your choice. Done!

Thanks, but I've got Weaver parts coming out of my ears. I retired that set of rings, then went out the next morning and bought the exact same thing to replace it. I'll probably retire all of my old Weaver rings in the next year or so and replace them with more of the same.


Okie John