I'm looking for advice for a friend I recently sold a BACO Winchester Featherweight Stanless to in 30.06. I bought the gun used, never shot it and sold it to him. He cannot get it to shoot any better than a 2" group at 100 yds. 2" groups were his best so far. His last shots of day were with Federal Premium 150 grain Nosler Ballistic Tip ammo. Waited 15 minutes between shots 3.75 inch 2 shot group at 100 yards. He can shoot groups under 1" with his 760 pump with the same ammo. I know these guns weren't know for being the best shooters out there, but I would think you could get better performance than what he's getting. Any suggestions on a different ammo or what else he could try?

Might check that action screws are snug and see if the forestock is touching or exerting pressure anywhere in the barrel channel. Doesn't sound like the scope, but wouldn't hurt to verify it is mounted securely (no loose screws in rings or mounts) and the scope isn't in a bind. Another thought might be to give the bore a good cleaning since you say you bought it used. Could be fouled? Just some scattered thoughts on troubleshooting.

BACO Model 70 Featherweights actually are known for shooting well. I''d be surprised if you can't get things close to 1 MOA with a little tinkering.

First, torque the action screws to spec. The front one might be too long, in which case it can bottom out on the barrel shank and screw things up. If the action screws are OK, then make sure that the scope is mounted as outlined here: https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...367363/1/scope-mounting-to-maintain-zero Again, torque is important.

If those two steps don't change things, then try another scope.

Also, that rifle might not shoot its best groups with that load, so definitely try different ammo. I've had very good luck with cheap Federal blue-box 180-grain loads in several rifles. Federal's Fusion loads tend to be accurate as well. If your buddy handloads, then have him try a 180-grain Sierra over 55 grains of IMR 4350. It's a time-honored 30-06 accuracy load.

Keep us posted on your progress.


Okie John

I agree that swapping the scope is a good idea but rule out that the current one is securely mounted too before pulling the old one off. You can waste a lot of ammo troubleshooting accuracy with a bad scope or mount.

I know the Leupold scope itself is good. I had it on a different rifle and it shot great.

The three featherweights I have are all tack drivers...223, 6.5 x 55, and 7 x 57...

all info above is good advise... mine were all bedded by previous owners...

Guard screws, mounts, rings are likely culprits. Go there first.

Good advice given. Follow the suggestions. As for your Leopold being good. Well, I've had a few go tits up, so don't assume it's not the culprit. I'd also make sure the bore isn't copper fouled. Another note on the bore, some of those bacos had extremely rough bores that take more rounds, downrange, to break in. A buddies EW was so bad that it shot 4" groups at 100 yards. It didn't matter what kind of ammo he used. It didnt start shooting moa groups until after around 600 rounds down the tube.

Go back to basics. Action screws, scope base screws, scope mounts.

That rifle does not line that load, try another. I have a Blaser R-93 in 7mm RM it will not shoot 160 gr Nosler Partition Fed Premium load as accurate as I would that thought it would. Around 2 inches, plenty for game shooting, but I tried some 150 gr Federal Blue box and Federal Fusions, half to three quarter inch groups. So some barrels may not like some loads or bullets. While I was a little disappointed since I like the 160's but since I bought the rifle 12 years ago now, I have killed 24 head of game with it, and the 150 gr bullets and not a problem. My guess a 165 or 180 gr load will shoot, if not then look at the bedding, or the crown if all the other things have been looked at. And yea I swap out a scope too. My barrel just doesn't like the 160's as loaded by Federal.

I would've never had the patience to put 600 rounds down the tube of something shooting 4" groups.

That... But if all checks out OK, then check for a free-floated barrel.. If not, remove the action, remove the crap Win calls 'bedding' and do a good glass bed to include the first 1-1.5" of barrel in front of the receiver - then ensure the rest of the barrel is floated..

If all this doesn't work I'd suggest a close inspection of the crown.

Me either man. He doesn't hand load and the ammo he was buying was expensive. It was a 300wsm and he said "It's going to start shooting better, or I'll be putting a new barrel on it!!!!" He had that barrel smoking hot that range session. I don't condone that, but he was pissed and that rifle finally settled in and shoots moa now...

Here's a link to an interesting method on bore polishing. I haven't tried it, but would rather have tried it or maybe some of Tubb's FinalFinish bullets before shooting 600 rounds downrange to deal with a rough bore. Comments below the method are probably worth reading too. It sounds like a safe method to polish a bore with no risk of throat erosion.

My Bore Polish Method to Shoot Better - by onondaga at castbulletassoc.org

I had a 7mm Rem Mag Stainless Classic featherweight that didn’t shoot worth a darn because the stock pushed against the barrel on one side. Had a ‘smith float and re-bed and it has shot great since. The magnum featherweights had a standard contour barrel in a featherweight stock. The problem could possibly be even worse in a thin featherweight contour barrel.

Plenty of good advice already given. I've had great luck on all six I have played with. Get back to the basics, swap out the scope, check mounts after checking the two action screws. You will eventually find the problem source. Don't forget to report back here.

UPDATE - Spoke to Phil yesterday, after another 4+" group with 150 grain, he took 3 shots with 180 grain Federal Premium Trophy Copper that resulted in a 5/8" group. He was shocked. He didn't have time to shoot anymore, but he's now going to try some 165 grain ammo just to see what happens.

Sounds like your buddy found his load.


Okie John

Can't help but wonder if changing the seating depth of the 150 gr load wouldn't help matters. Probably a moot point since this is factory ammo and your friend may not handload, but wouldn't assume that the 150 BT won't shoot well in that rifle just yet. Might be interesting to compare the throats of his Winchester Fwt and 760 pump.

Went from 4" groups down to 1", just by switching ammo. Damn what a picky biotch.. just sayin.

That has me thinking there's an undiagnosed pathology.

My 2008 30-06 featherweight is a VERY picky bitch. Only two loads that I've had consistently shoot well on more than one range session were a 200 grain Accubond with 54-54.5(can't remember which and don't want to dig for it) grains of RL17, and a 150 TTSX and 58.5(I think) grains of Ramshot Big Game. Every single other combination I've tried has either been good one day and not the next, or just plain [bleep] all around.

Removing the factory bedding and re-doing it did seem to help some...

Yep, not likely the "problem" is solved with that amount of change due to ammo alone. If that were to actually be the highly unlikely case, that rifle would be sent down the road tomorrow.

Regardless of people who like free-floated light barrels, I've rarely seen on that didn't shoot better with the barrel stress free bedded, with full length or with just a pad near the end of the forearm.

Obviously the action & lug should be correctly bedded as well.

Also, again, if only obviously, the scope & mounts need to be proven as well.

MM

I agree MM.

I don't think he's out of the woods yet for two reasons. First, he shot a single 5/8" group. In a recent test of two different loads in an old P14 with metallic sights chambered for .303 British the average three-shot groups were 2.709" and 3.277". The largest were 4.593" and 5.754". But the smallest were .813" and 0.520". Even this blind hog found a couple of acorns.

The second reason is that all of my rifles except one shoot most loads into group sizes that are at least vaguely similar, not ranging from sub MOA to 4+".

I like to see pictures of these groups.. that will definitely help with a diagnosis of what might be wrong..

Don't suppose he's resting the barrel instead of stock on the front rest or on a hard front rest ?

as a handloader, I'd look suspect at the powder that might be being used in it...

if the 180s shot well... pull some and seat some 150 grain Ballistic tips on top and then try to see how that shoots.
I tend to suspect the powder or charge first, if a round doesn't shoot well to begin with.


I had a Shaw barrel in 223, that I put on a Model 70... it wasn't that much of an accurate rifle at the range..
but in the field it managed to do pretty well at shooting sage rats with my Blue Dot loads...
however after about 600 rounds down the tube... it turned itself into a tack driver all of a sudden...
figured they could have finished the barrel a little better at the factory.

non military, my favorite action still is the Model 70.. push feed or 'classic'...
favorite military is the Springfield and P14 or P17 Enfields.

Agreed. When I was shooting pistols competitively, we had a saying: "Broke guns don't fix themselves."

Stress relieved the barrel and burnt out the high spots on the bedding in one swoop. Also a lot closer to getting that new barrel.

I always start with a good cleaning then proceed to bedding, screws, scope etc.

The BACO Win model 70 30-06 has 1-10” rifling twist. No real surprise that a 180 grain shoots well, or better than a 150 grainer.

Agree trying 165 grain ( go for flat base versions). I have the same rifle ( baco USA Win m70 featherweight 30-06). 57 gr / IMR 4350 with a 165 gr Hornady flat base and 180 gr Hornady w/ 55 gr imr 4350 both shoot near 1 moa ( neither of those are over 1.5 moa on a bad day) for 3 shot groups. Sweet rifle. Currently wears a 3x Leupold.

Agree with earlier comment to check for min / uniform barrel contact in barrel channel. Sometimes a little constant pressure on the bottom isn’t too bad, and may help. Stock/ barrel contact on one side is not good ( relieve the side contact if present). Good luck. Can you repeat those sub-moa group with 180 grainers? That would important to support a benefit, or to show a “ fluke” group. Also, I would try 165 grain loads ( more than one manufacturer if you don’t reload).

Regarding “ simple changing of ammo” and improved groups...
Both my brother and have have Marlin 336a 30-30 rifles ( 1976 vintage, 24” bbl, microgroove rifling.). Received both new from our Dad. Mine has a 4x scope. His has a Weaver 2-7x scope. Mine shoots near 1 moa with 32 grains ww748 and 170 grain Speers. My brother’s Marlin would shoot about 4 moa with Hornady 170 grain bullets and near max loads of 4895 and 3031. We live 500 miles apart. We got together years ago, and shot our Marlins. “See what I mean?” , as he shoots another 4” group. I told him to try my reloads (170 Speer / ww748). He did, and it posted a 1.5 moa group. I shot HIS reloads, and got justunder 4 moa groups. He now shoots the 170 Speer / 32 ww748 load.

Sometimes “ a simple change” can yield an improved group size. Both my brother and I will attest to that.

Well, I figured that that rifle just didn't like that 150 gr. Load. Rifles are individuals, no two are really alike.

Curious if this ever got sorted out.

Bump.

Mine shoots around 3/4" with 165 BT,. day in day out. First load and bullet I tried 57.0 Grains 4350, so I was done. It is all I'll ever need. It was an All Terran FWT with the plastic stock, Bedded and free floated in a FWT walnut stock, Leupold 6X42 in Talley SS mounts. I favor the 165's in the '06. Nosler AB are less accurate in this rifle for some reason. I've fooled around with seating depth and other extreme than cases it makes very little difference.

Still hasn’t been resolved. It’s been shot a few more times. Still inconsistent groups. Shooting 1.5” with other guns, checked scope and cleaned it. Check bedding next?

I am having a similar problem with a 243 stainless featherweight. As I said in my prior post, floating the barrel on a 7RM fixed a similar problem - the 243’s grouping reminds of what the mag’s groups like Omer like.. The 243 is in at the smith getting the barrel floated now.

With the 7RM, I was trying to shoot it with 160 gr partitions - Federal Premiums and handloads and it wouldn’t shoot. After the barrel was bedded I switched to 175s and they shoot well, but I had some left over 160s too and they also shoot well after the barrel was floated. OAL was pretty much the same, though.

I have the same vintage model 70 featherweight. Mine likes 180 interlocks, on top of 48 grains of IMR 4895. Not fast but consistently under an inch. I tried lots of powders and bullet combinations to get it to shoot well. Free floated the barrel, bedded the action, and torque the screws the same always! It was a challenge but lots of fun!

Do like Redneck said and get rid of the factory bedding. Its often inadequate. I've had to re-do the glass bedding on a few EW rifles and BACO featherweights. However, I will say the bedding compound they use is much better than the WRA Olin USRAC hot glue bedding. That chit was so brittle, it wasn't even funny. Before I even shoot a new rifle anymore, I'll go thru it and make sure everything is done to it to ensure it's going to shoot good. This means, checking and torquing all action screws, new glass bedding, new trigger spring (ernie the gunsmith) in the case of the BACO model 70, Clean the hell out of the barrel, dissassemble the bolt and degrease and lightly oil, check locking lugs for proper engagement, check headspace, make sure the mag box isn't binding, Check scope mounts, rings, don't forget about that front receiver bridge screw where the barrel threads are, it needs to be shorter than the rest, so it doesn't put pressure on the barrel/chamber area, too long of a screw there also means the scope mount will not be held in place satisfactorily, loctite those screws, and USE a proven scope. In order to get consistently good accuracy, the whole mechanical package has to be right.

Speaking of picky B’s, my Weatherby Mk V lightweight shot Federal 165 TSX loads and Remington CL 180s better than a lot of high priced spread. It doesn’t shoot the 168 TTSX handloads particularly well either. Nothing really seems to settle in under an inch with various powder/ primer combos. It cut cloverleaf groups with the discontinued Federal TSX load, so the rifle is capable. Worst ammo was Swift A-Frames.... I may just stick with 180 Remington CL factory ammo and call it good. Have also contemplated handloading 165 TSX and see what shakes. I don’t use the rifle much and am tired of fiddling with it. Happy Trails

38 responses and I would’ve expected Tikka mentioned 37 times....but nothing?

This as noted above for sure.
" check for a free-floated barrel.. If not, remove the action, remove the crap Win calls 'bedding' and do a good glass bed to include the first 1-1.5" of barrel in front of the receiver - then ensure the rest of the barrel is floated.. "

After bedding,
Make sure the bolt handle does not touch wood when closed.
Make sure the magazine box is a little loose with screws tightened down.
Tighten the screws correctly.
Do the above for sure. . even if the gun is shooting acceptable to you as is.

If this does not give you tighter groups and repeated sessions give you the same poi
try removing the scope and mounts and remount them.
If that does not work, try another scope.

Don't do a lot of load variations during the above. Wait till improvements have been made to dial it in.

Sell gun if you haven't found magic after doing these things.

Your may have fouling/deposits in the barrel, or a rough bore, if you have already tried various loads (165, 180 grains).

Try giving the bore a good bronze bore brush scrubbing with a good cleaning solvent ( from the breach/ chamber). I mean .”good scrubbing” like 100 front/back passes, then a few soaked cleaning patches. Then another 100 front/back passes with the bore brush then cleaning patch until you get to 500 -1000 forward/back cycles with a tight-fitting solvent-soaked bronze brush ( do it over a couple of days if need be, but do it well). Wrap several layers of tape ( ie packing tape) on the last 3-4” of the cleaning rod near the bore brush. This will protect the crown/muzzle from getting dinged from the metal cleaning rod dropping onto the bore as that bore brush exits the muzzle.

Then try a 165 or 180 grain load for an accuracy check. 150 may be too short for its 1-10” twist rifling.

May need to fire lap the bore to smooth it out. Not hard or expensive to do.

Don’t Give up. Be patient. Be methodical.