Is there enough meat on a 7mm bore T3X Lite barrel at 18” to have it threaded for a 5/8x24 suppressor?

No sir, not enough to thread 5/8 with a .050” shoulder, as recommended. You’d need a OD of .725” or better, don’t think you’ll get there with any t3x chambered in 7 mag or 7mm-08.

Have to do something like 9/16” with an adapter. Or of course 1/2” if you feel that’d leave enough wall thickness with a .284 bore...

Thank you. I am very new to this world of suppressors and threaded battles, period. How is it that a rifle like a pencil-barreled Kimber Montana can accommodate a suppressor but a cut back T3x cannot? Does using a flash hinder mounted suppressor, in any way, help this situation?

I’m not a gunsmith or expert in the matter, or up on Kimber thread pitch specs for their lightweight rifles.

But I have read up on the subject and had a few t3 lites chopped and threaded. They were .223s and a 243, so I went 1/2” and used a 5/8” adapter to attach my titanium direct thread can. With these small bore rifles no concern. But with bigger bores wall thickness comes into play when threading slim barrels at 1/2” or even more so 7/16”. But I’d assume if kimber is doing that it’s safe.

Yes, a with brake attach type can easily allow adapting different thread pitch rifles to a common suppressor. I do this with my tbac ultra 7 .30 cal. And I could see having a brake attached all the time bolstering thin muzzle walls somewhat with a sporter barrel threaded smaller than the typical 5/8”. Downside is brakes cost $100 each. If you get a direct thread can you can use quality thread adapters to get to 5/8” as well.

I would ask a good gunsmith or the suppressor manufacturer

Good reading on the subject here:

https://www.longriflesinc.com/colle...ts/gunsmithing-services-muzzle-threading

Your Tikka probably has enough barrel diameter depending on how you have the barrel threaded. I had my Kimber and X-Bolt done by a machinist in Colorado who threads the barrel, then screws on, rocksets and turns down a threaded collar to act as a square shoulder for suppressor mounting. Going this route you only need ~0.635" for 5/8x24, which if I remember from my last T3 Superlite is about what the barrel is at the muzzle.

The result works well and looks like:



Alternatively, some suppressor manufacturers including Liberty and Thunderbeast will make and install a muzzle device (brake or flash hider) on your rifle that indexes on the muzzle and doesn't require a shoulder.

Thanks, gentlemen. Starting to make a little more sense. It’s not just the threads, but also a substantial enough “backstop” or shoulder is needed.

Threading it 1/2x28 and then using a 1/2x28-5/8x24 adapter is a good way to go too.

Yes sir. It’s The shoulder you end up with, and also how much wall thickness is left between bore and minor thread diameter. If you thread a .22 cal 1/2” (which is standard practice), you have more wall thickness left than if you thread a .30 cal 1/2”. Most barrels over .22 cal are threaded 5/8”, but I’ve heard of .308s threaded 1/2” and as you mentioned kimber is threading some pretty slim barrels with smaller thread pitch’s.

Some gunsmiths are threading sporter barrels 9/16”, and coming up with solutions like the ones Scotty mentioned above.

Personally I want all mine threaded 5/8. I have another t3 lite 243 and am debating doing the 1/2” with adapter thing again or getting a CTR contour prefit already threaded 5/8” instead.