Just picked up a brand new Montana 84L in 25-06. Those of you that have them, have done the “pre-flight”, etc. I was going to bed the recoil lug and shank right off the bat. However, when I drop the barreled action in the stock and try and wiggle there’s no play. It slides in easy enough, but it doesn’t move at all. Still bed it, or shoot it first? Also, I can see shiny spots thru the paint from the “feet” on the bottom front of the magazine box. I’ll tend to that with the dremel. When I get bases/rings I’ll make sure the screws don’t bottom out on the barrel shank. Anything else to look for? Also, favorite scopes for the long action Montana’s? Leupold 3.5-10? And favorite mounts? Talley lows? I’m all ears!

I'll go first and have had a few dozen of Kimber Montana's from .204 Ruger to the Talkeetna. First, shoot the rifle as is and use it as a benchmark of accuracy.
You can do all the little techie fixes later. But befor3e I shoot them, I bring the trigger pull down to 2.5#'s. A common sense light trigger works wonders for accuracy.
Your "shiny" spots from the mag feet are a sign that there is no pressure on the box. A little sliding around is a good thing. For me, there is only one base/ring set to buy and that is the Talley Lightweight in low or extra low. I also like the versatility of their extended model - depending on the length of your scope tube. The latter will handle a 40mm objective. A small amount of blue Loctite is good for me after you degrease the threads of everything.
If the accuracy is not MOA, don't immediately think you need to bed it. A proper job can't hurt accuracy. Sometimes it takes 50+ rounds to make things perk. I had had great success with Acraglass and stick with it. You can bed the action area, lug and I feather it off going an inch down the barrel shank. I have never full length bedded any Kimber. Just remember the 84L model you have can be finicky to shoot consistently every trip to the range.

For the 84L I believe the 2.5-8x36 is an optimal size for the rifle. But I have my share of 3.5-10 x40's on rifle too. Old eyes like the extra 2x power.

Most likely Brad will come around and add his experience. Listen to what he has to say. He takes his Kimber prep regimen to a high level. Others too will lend their experience. I trust you will keep us informed as to your progress. I have never owned a 25-06 anything so I look forward to your results.

Yeah I would definitely shoot it first, I would give it a thorough cleaning then tighten the action screws to 45 inch pounds and head to the range. It might not need any of the "pre-flight" prep, I have owned 8 Montana's (.308, 300 WSM, .280Ai, 30-06 and .223 chamberings)... 6 of the 8 needed zero prep to shoot sub MOA and function flawlessly right out of the box. All of My rifles also wore Talley lightweight (low) ringmounts 👍....Good luck...Hb

My $0.02 based on research and personal experience...fwiw...this is applicable to most rifles...not just the Montana...

Adjust the trigger as light as you feel comfortable with.

Check the mag box for binding and relieve contact points.

Check the front action screw for contact...it should not bottom out.

Make sure the front scope base screw is not too long so as to contact the barrel.

Make sure the recoil lug has adequate clearance beneath it and the factory bedding.

Make several trips to the range...if results are not positive then look to rebed the action as a final step.

Lastly and most importantly ....mount a like new Leupold VX6 2-12 on it as I will be posting one for sale this weekend. 👍🏼

Tag.

I agree with everything bigwhoop posted. I've owned a dozen or so and have been able to make them shoot something into MOA. I've bedded all but one Montana. My current 280 AI isnt bedded but shoots MOA for 5 shots with a couple of loads. I think the newer models, with barrel wart, tend to be more accurate than the older models - at least the ones I've played with.

I also think, like alot of light rifles, are prone to shoot not so great when manhandled. My bench technique is minimal wrist grip, minimum face pressure, no hand on the forearm. Others do it different but I shoot better from the bench that way.

I’m following this thread. I’ve got an 84l classic on it’s way. I assume the same would apply?
It’ll be my first Kimber.

@borden811 - what’s the pre flight that you speak of, sir?

Same here. All of the above. Love my 280’s & 280 AI.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt.../10774365/Kimber_Montana_Bedding_And_Pre

Lots of good info.

Have 2 of the them 7mm08 and a 270 WSM.
7mm08 took a bit of work to get to shoot it is a first run Montana.

270 WSM has shoot lights out from the day I removed it from the box.
I do take the actions off the stock clean it all well. Check the fit in the stock to how tight it locks in with NO BINDING.
Push em into the lug and torque em down. Check function done.
The 270 WSM needed nothing other than the 3.5x10 VX that is still on it.
It is very stable never changes and shoots 130gr TSX 3225 FPS in about an inch. Devastating deer round.

Very good plan. I'd stick to it. Shoot it after doing the simple stuff, and then bed if needed. If you're feeling ambitious it wouldn't hurt to dab bed the lug right off the bat.

What do you torque the screws in the stock to?

Never mind...found it further down. Thanks

45 in/lbs in the front and 35 in/lbs at the tang. I sneak up on these values alternating front and tang, in 5 lb increments. I'm always sure to finish the front first then the tang because this is what I've been told and have had good success.

Thanks for the link. Sure is lotsa good info.

Shame flipping photo suckit seems to have ruined many a great reads with their bs.

Thank you, Brad! - for that detailed write up in the linked thread.

I do this exact same thing - thought I was just being extra loonish................

I have owned 5 different Kimber Montanas, 4 were 84M and 1 was a Talkeetna. Three of the five needed some work but two, one a .308 and the Talkeetna, needed no work other than the front scope base screw shortened a little so it would tighten correctly. A .308 was scary accurate right out of the box, shooting many factory loads around 1" 5-shot groups.

Make sure your scope base screws are correct, then remove the magazine follower and when the action is replaced make sure the mag box has some movement in it, then shoot the rifle.

I just tighten the action screws down in no particular order with with a Brownells Magna-Tip screwdriver.

Hhmm...and yet your Montana shoots lights out! Go figure.

I always shoot rifles first before doing any modifications. Most of the bad talk on lack of accuracy is not trying ample samples of loads. Barrels lean towards certain grain weights, velocities and setting depths.
I only use Talley lows on my Kimbers. There’s enough bolt handle clearance.
25-06 can reach out there, but it depends on where you’ll use it. If only thicker cover 3-9; otherwise I’d say 4-12/4.5-14

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Talley lows are ordered, everything else suggested has been done minus bedding. Disassembled, cleaned, trigger adjusted, Mag box checked, etc. still deciding on a scope. It’ll be use for deer hunting, shots anywhere from 25 to 500+ yards. I’d like to keep it reasonably light, i.e. no nightforce. I do have a Cabelas instinct HD I was considering putting on it. It’s a 4.5-14x44 though. That might make it a little top heavy. Also have a vx3i 3-10x40, which is the obvious choice, but, I had a plain duplex and I’d rather have a b&c on it. Decisions, decisions.

I have a 25-06 from around 2006, no thread barrel. I checked the action screws, cleaned it then mounted a Leupold VX3 4.5-14x50 (I don't find it heavy at all) in Talleys and went to the range. If the scope you have is one made by Meopta it will be great on that rifle! I'm not sure if this will apply since your barrel is different, but mine did not like higher velocity...middle of the road book loads and heavier bullets is what it likes. It'll shoot Accubonds (110gr), Bergers (115gr) and Sierra (120gr) all sub MOA with RL22 or 4831. The Bergers are not for everyone as the potential for an exit wound is low but for the smaller deer here I've found them to work great. Send me a PM...I've got all my reloading info from it.

I've been reading this thread and ask for your patience as I am a new member. I recently (prior to Christmas) purchased a Kimber Hunter (Boot Campaign edition) in the 7mm-08. I too have been wondering about the torque specs for the take-down screws. When I dismantled the rifle for the first time to clean it I noticed what appeared to be a red colored thread lock material on the end of the screws. I've always used Blue Loctite on scope bases, but this looked to be reddish in color. I do not use a thread locking material on the take-down screws as I usually dismantle after each hunt to clean the rifle. Swarovski says no more than 17.7 in/pounds on the scope rings. But, I'm looking for the in/pound specs to tighten my Talley lightweight bases to the receiver (I'm thinking 25-30 in/pounds) and also the torque settings for the front and back take-down screws. I married my Hunter with a Swarovski Z5 3.5-18x44 P. Would you agree the 45 front and 35 in/pounds on tang also hold true for the Hunter? Thanks for your help and enjoyed this thread.

Here's a 84L I put together with a PacNor 7x57 barrel (.600 at the muzzle) Mountain Ascent stock, Talleys and a 3.5X10.
6.25 lbs as shown. I got it slapped together and then had a car accident and haven't been able to shoot much since August.

[img]https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...171173/mountain-ascent-7x57#Post14171173[/img]

The 3.5-10 just looks right on those guns to me. Kind of like the 2.5-8 looks perfect in the short actions.

I bedded my Adirondack 308 using Acraglass gel, shortened the front base screw and fit the mag box (it was binding) before I ever shot it. Bedding won’t hurt it so why not. It’s pretty easy. I don’t measure groups but it’s a one ragged hole shooter at 100 yards. Leupold FX3 6x42 in Talley lows is about perfection for me.