Has anyone played with the torque in the rear screw to get better accuracy? If you where did you end up torque wise for improvement? Just wondering if people are ending up around the same torque or its all over the place.
Are there anything a good smith can do to improve accuracy on the Fieldcraft or are they pretty tuned up from the factory? I bought one in 243 a week ago, haven't shot and bought a special run green 22" in 6.5 Creedmoor should arrive next week. So I'm just curious
Thank you
Take it apart. Clean it. Make sure you assemble it right (follower and spring). I adjust my Timney down to about 2 lbs (bottom front hex screw).
Run a patch through the barrel. Make sure you shorten the front scope base screw a bit so it doesn't clamp down on the barrel threads (if you use the front screw - there's 3 there and you only probably need to use it if you use a rail).
I tighten the front action screw first. The bedding is excellent, so you don't need to worry too much about torque if you don't have a wrench. I firm it down pretty good. Then tighten the rear action screw - I don't tighten rear as much as the front.
Not sure if you're reloading or not.
I've had very good groups from mine with both handloads (243, 22-250, 7mm-08) and factory ammo (6mm CM, 6.5 CM, 7mm-08) just doing the above. I wouldn't mess with any thing else unless you're not shooting good groups.
The Fieldcraft is the best deal going. Accurate, stainless, excellent stock, light, good QC and they'll fix it fast if the let something slip by. It's too bad they're not producing them now....and not sure if they'll ever get it ramped up again. If they do, they will drop some chamberings, from what I've heard. The 7-08 has been hard to find for some time now.
Here's a post with some targets further down. Just sighting in and shooting a quick 3-shot group.
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...rimer-win-wlr-in-fieldcraft#Post14435374
Thank you all for the replys. I'd like to use the 243 Fieldcraft for factory Sporter class in Groundhog shoots (benchrest).