Trying to put a 2x7 on a RAR 243. Currently have Talley LW lows, but the “base” on the rear wont let me push the scope as far forward as I want because of the power ring. Considering grinding it down. Reckon I could reverse the bases but hate them facing backwards. For whatever reason.

Anybody using dual dovetails? Suggestions?

"Backwards"? I never viewed Talleys as having a front or back, it is just whatever fits best. Seems like you are adding an unnecessary restriction.

The Burris XTB with rings of your choice increases flexibility without going full rail.

Probably “unnecessary restriction” but that’s the way, uh huh, uh huh, I like it.

Just turn the rear one then. Then they will be bookends, and it looks fine.

You can turn either base in either direction as needed if using Talley's. But since the Rugers already have bases I use them with Burris Zee rings.

16bore,

It doesn't sound like everyone is understanding the problem you are describing. I've done that on a number of Talleys due to the exact same problem with clearance on the power ring. It typically doesn't take much to make them work. In the past I've always just used a file to ensure I didn't overdo it.

Roger that ammoman.....flipping the base ain’t moving the scope forward. Reckon we’ll see.

Okay, I think I misunderstood the problem when I first read the original post.

I, too, have had a problem with the power ring hitting just the base portion (i.e., not the ring portion) of a Talley Lightweight mount. And, indeed, simply reversing the ring will not help with that problem. One solution with the Talley LW was to go to a higher ring height, but then the scope would be higher than necessary. Removing material from the base would weaken the base, which is where Tally LWs sometimes tend to break, so maybe not the best solution.

Much to my disappointment, going to a regular base-plus-ring system, such as with Warne bases, did not help, either, because the power ring would still hit the base. Meaning, I still needed to go to a higher ring. I.e., the same problem as with the Talley LWs.

I ended up going to the next higher Talley LW mount. Not the best solution, but it didn't weaken the base and was the easiest.

I'd love to hear of a more elegant solution to the problem.

Photos are our friend...

In my experience, the amount and location of the material removed is insignificant. I'm sure there are situations where that wouldn't be true, but I haven't seen them with the setups I've had.

Took 0.010 off the bottoms of 200+ sets, can’t see the top being an issue.

Figured I’d follow up....stuck an end mill in my drill press, stuck the base in a vice and did it by hand....little bits at a time. It worked. I know a bunch of real machinists just fell to the floor......

Do same with a flat file on a regular basis. Lower the rear base to clear power selector ring. Chamfer forward portion of front base to clear the objective bell. Perhaps not as "perfect" as using a mill, or end mill. But still functional. One of the reasons I love the Talley Aluminum light weight mounts.

Looks just right.