I'm mostly planning to ease into reloading for my hunting rifles (not as interested in my handguns, at least not right now)... so a couple questions:

1. What manual would you recommend?

2. Would you recommend starting with a kit or just buying equipment separately and piecing one together?

Any reloading manual is a good choice.

Kit.

The online Nosler manual is free. A good one. The Berger manual’s intro information is excellent but their load data is very anemic. The Sierra load data is very good and is available on an iPhone if you have one.

The kits are serviceable, or you can get what you want in pieces. Pieces is a good way to select individual high quality components but possibly more expensive and more complicated initially.

The kits come with some stuff that’s for very basic crude reloading.
Once you get into it, you’ll slowly find you need more stuff to be more precise .
Also it’s not a cheap hobby. I hope you’re talking about high powered rifle like 243,6.5, 30/06 300 win or what ever because if you want to do 1000 rounds of 556 you’ll want progressive vs single stage.
I bought beginners to reloading or something like that.
YouTube but a friend who helped me at the beginning was the best and got me my confidence

Send me a PM if you want some beginning manuals. Might have some floating around.

Look for a it. Buy once cry once.

There a lot of good manuals around, and several manufacturers of projectiles and propellant have on-line resources.

You'll get a lot of opinions about what brand of gear and what particular bits of equipment you need, much of which frankly reflects posters' own usage and often prejudices or brand loyalties. Before deciding what to get it would be a good plan to consider why you wan to reload, because that will make a difference to what you'll need and indeed whether it is worth reloading at all.

For example, if you only use a few rounds a year, in a reasonably available calibre, and your rifle shoots it well enough, there might not be much value in reloading. You might also get by with something really quite basic, if a little slow, to knock up enough ammo for the year if you don't use much. I personally started out with a Lee Loader, about 40 years ago, which is a very basic and admittedly rather slow way of doing it, but this is quite capable of making accurate and reliable ammo. It is also very portable, and will pay for itself if you factory rounds are expensive. It is not perhaps ideal if you want to knock up more than a box or two at a time though.

If you want to make ammo a bit faster, and/or have a bit more control over variables such as charge weight, seating depth etc, to allow a bit more "tweaking", there are various press kits. The Lee Anniversary kit is pretty good value IMHO, and I've been very happy with a predecessor for decades. Others may prefer different brands, but I've found that Lee gear is well able to produce accurate and reliable ammunition - several of my hunting rifles average well under 1 moa with ammunition made on a Lee O-frame press with Lee dies and propellant thrown in a Lee Perfect thrower.

There is dearer gear too of course, and for some applications like benchrest competition, or pumping out high volumes, you might want to buy some more specialised stuff, but for use in hunting rifles these really offer no benefit IMHO. No doubt that reflects my own prejudices too of course ;-)

Some of the kits actually include a manual. For instance: RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit.

I'm inclined to believe that a good kit would be the better/cheaper way to go. But, that's not what I did because I personally knew several people, at the time, that were willing to sell me their superfluous equipment [having upgraded to a better press, or scale, or priming tool] for a good price (In fact, now I, too, have a Lyman powder measure and entry-level scale just sitting in a drawer unused). You just need to consider your own options, objectives, and monetary constraints.

I've been reloading for my hunting rifles for many many years, and, while I thoroughly enjoy eking out the most accurate load for each rifle, I can tell you, with absolute certainty, that you will, ultimately, NOT save money doing so. Aside from the up-front costs of acquiring the necessary equipment, you will also need the dies and the components. And you will end up shooting much more often, so, while you may be saving a good bit of coin on a per-box basis, you will be going through those boxes much more quickly, with resultant range fees, plus the expense of nonreusables (bullets, primers, powder).

Just so you know . . . it's a very satisfying hobby, but it ain't cheap!

I suggest what was recommended to me: get a couple of reloading manuals to read before buying any equipment or components. That will give you a solid idea of what is involved. You can then better consider a solution for whatever your needs are.

I got a lot of valuable in formation from the Lyman manual, as well as The ABCs of Reloading.

I used a Lee press for several years with very good results; a relatively inexpensive way to start. As my volume increased (.223) I switched to a turret press.

If you are just doing your hunting rifles this is hard to beat. I started with a Lee single stage and still use it for all my bolt action rifles and predator calling rifles. They used to come with a manual, I see they discontinued that. Lee, Nosler, Speer, Hornady, Sierra.....all make good manuals.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1013011111?pid=423081

I will also suggest the RCBS supreme master reloading kit. I bought one in the 90's and still use every piece that came with it, with a couple exceptions. Its assembling loaded ammo. You can get as fancy as you want, or you can just get by. Its all up to the person doing the reloading. I shoot a lot, so for me it saves a ton of money over buying factory loaded ammo. Plus, I want my ammo to be tailor made to attain the best accuracy out of my rifles. Here's my set-up:

So in the picture, you can see a different loading tray and different trickler. I bought the loading block because the fat WSM's wouldn't fit in the old RCBS loading block. The trickler that comes in the supreme kit is cheesy and light, hence the reason I use a different one made a lot heavier. As far as which maunals to buy, the choice is simple enough. If you load Nosler, Barnes, Hornady, Sierra, buy those bullet manufacture manuals. As someone else said, Nosler has very good on line loading data. You can just about skip buying a Nosler load manual. Other things I always suggest are a good caliper (digital or vernier), tumbler, brass prep center and concentricity gauge. The concentricity gauge will verify that your dies are set up for minimal run-out. You want to load straight and consistent ammo, or you'll just be wasting components....

Thanks, all. Midway has a Lee kit on sale with free shipping right now, so I snagged it as a start, along with some dies and gauges.

Looks like brass and powder might be a different story at the moment.

What cartridges are you looking at reloading?

Sportsmans has the Supreme kit for $299, BTW. Thought about dipping my toe in that mess again. 1,100 rounds to breakeven with 223, not counting time spent.

As noted above
"I suggest what was recommended to me: get a couple of reloading manuals to read before buying any equipment or components. That will give you a solid idea of what is involved. You can then better consider a solution for whatever your needs are."

If you can find some cheap old reloading manuals at a gun show or in a gun shop, buy them.
Manuals from different sources will have different parts of reloading that they focus on. Read the sections
before worrying about data and tables.

When you are ready to do a load work up, you can get they data you need for the new components on line.
The process and procedures stay the same, but the old books won't have all the new components included.

Go Slow and pay attention.
Buy reasonably good stuff as you need it.

Just my 2 cents.

Great advice. Anyone who has an interest in reloading their own should appreciate a good sit down with a few good loading manuals. I know I've sat and looked through them for hours. A lot of good stories in most of them as well. You'll even find stories from guys here, one example is in the Barnes load manual in the 300H&H data. I also would read through the how to sections and become familiar with the loading process and learn some tips and tricks along the way. One thing I warn against though, is believing you can find load data online for every bullet manufacture. It's just not the case. Most of these companies want you to buy something and their load manuals are at the top of the list for things they want you to buy. Nosler, on the other hand, is very generous to offer their online load data... Kudos to them for sure...

Primarily 280, 25-35, 32-20, and maybe 30-30. I have a ton of 6.5 and 708 right now, but those in the future once I run through what I've got.

The Big Book Of Gun Gack by John Something-or-other is a good start as well.

Big Book of Gun Gack

Gotcha.

I was able to use our statewide-linked library system to order in many different manuals when I started reloading. I found it very useful to read several different descriptions of the process (and possible pitfalls). In the end, I plunked-down $ for Hornady's 10th & Barnes #4, since those are mostly the bullets I shoot. I also got Lyman's 50th, on a whim. I still consult Hodgdon's & Nosler's online load data, too.

The Gun Gack book is a wealth of information, too. Once you've read through all the reloading manuals, Gack will quickly show you the things that matter most, and the things that... you can obsess over at a later time.

I'm still perfecting my method, too. Someone recently posted about Panhandle Precision's videos, and that's definitely helped me square-up some things.

A friend here recommended the Lee kit, and since they were on sale around Christmas when I bought it, I went that route. If you read the reviews around here, it's kinda hard to find a negative review of most any reloading stuff, be it RCBS, Lee, Lyman, or whatever.

I know there have been many threads about, "if you had to start reloading all over again, what would you ditch, and what would you keep?". Perhaps I can find them, & post the links.

FC

PM s by on #1

I started with Lee’s Anniversary Kit which has everything you need to get started except dies and components. I replaced tools since with nice stuff, but it has the basics to get started.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1013011111?pid=423081

Same as efw

I strongly suggest this
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101273351?pid=231904 For precise measurements to ogive. Easier than combined over all.
They also have a set for head space.
And Sinclair has chamber depth gauge so you dont trim too much, actually know your chamber and case length.
https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=15010
The Hornady case prep tool saves my fingers and time
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012733817?pid=245424
Here are some tools from my bench
https://i.imgur.com/XP5gzp6.jpg

And here we go. Suggesting chidt that is absolutely unnecessary to a newbie wanting to learn about reloading... Trust me, if he reads through the load manuals and learns how to find proper OAL by sooting the bullet, he'll be money ahead. Also, no need to know his exact chamber length for trimming brass. Just trim to book suggested length, which is .010" under SAAMI spec and you are golden. I agree about the case prep centers, also your pics aren't showing up. Here's a pic from some ammo I loaded doing it the oldschool way. No freeking fluff unnecessary tools:

I always know how far off the lands my bullets are running. My loads always chamber and fire and are extremely accurate.
This reloading chidt can get expensive if you take into account buying all the unnecessary chidt some of you are suggesting...

By the way, guess how much the 10 shot group would have cost, had it been factory ammo... Any takers?:
286gr Nosler partiton factory 9.3x62mm ammo cost...

Yes, reloading saves a chidt ton of money. Its stupid to think otherwise.

Sweet group!

OP, the best advice you have gotten or will get is to buy a couple of good loading manuals and spend days reading and studying. Many people here will tell you what you need, but you need to understand what you are going to be doing and decide for yourself what you need. Other than the purchase of the manuals, my only advice is “buy quality”.

Speer, Hodgdon and Western Powders all offer free online reloading manuals.

I recommend getting a book off Amazon called The ABC’s of Reloading.

Kits are an okay place to start. Honestly, with reloading equipment it’s a Catch-22 - there are many tools or methods out there to give the same end result, but with differences in how you do it. A lot of which way you choose is based on personal preference and personal goals. You won’t know what works best until you get out there and try it.

Don’t fall in to the trap of somehow thinking of you just do enough research you’ll figure out exactly what will work best for you without ever actually doing any reloading.

You made a good choice for a starting reloading kit with the Lee, they are not fancy but they will do everything needed and do it well.

The Western Powders loading manual (I am referring to the full printed manual - not the freebie paper copy or the on-line version) has one of the best instructional section for reloading of any of the manuals IMO. If you have an opportunity to take a look at one I think you will be impressed, it is written in a very well laid out style, simple to understand for a beginning reloader, and lots of quality photos. I am also fond of the Western Powder / Ramshot offerings of powder. I wish it would have been available back in the dark ages when I started reloading.




western Powder manual - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019858118?pid=592562

drover

I agree that starting reloaders can produce accurate ammo with simple tools.

There should be a mistrial process to reloading.

Start with simple tools and basic processes. My first .308 rifle loads were simply following the reloading manual, trim length, seating depth, etc. and working up through a charge ladder,

I was able to find a load about 3/4 of the way between start and max that gave me consistent, repeatable 1” groups at 100 yards.

I’ve since gone down the rabbit hole but IMHO it is better to start simple then add on complexity and tools (or not, depending on the end goal).

Thanks for all of the input. I'm all ears for thoughts on brass quality (I know this could start a few fights)... especially for new brass. Recommendations?

Hands down, the Lyman manual #49 or #50, they ain't sellin' powder nor bullets. Equipment? Get a Lee Loader classic, and a cheapo manual scale, then much later you can dash out and buy all the classy toys to load ammo almost as good as your hand dies.

I got a Lee whack-a-mole...in 223. So I could load 63SMP and 70 Speed RN for my slow twist Ruger. Maybe some mono's and interlocks and partitions and some bondeds.

Shouldn't take too long to recoup my investment.

Hornady has been both available, and consistently good in my parts.

I thought the 2 chamberings of Nosler brass I bought were soft.

FC

I usually go with whatever once fired brass I have in my stash.

Barring that, I tend to go with Starline or Hornady for virgin brass.

Get a couple of reload manuals and study the written chapters hard.

As good of start as any AND it will suffice In a SHTF scenario as well without any doubt. Did you get the Lee Dies? The Lee Collet Neck Die will save you from an unbelievable amount of excessive bullshit and you don't have to use case lube! Its called Neck sizing only instead of full length sizing and many of us here do just that with great results

Trystan

Agree with EFW and others. Get the Lee kit and collet dies. Read the book -sure , but go to Lee's website and watch the very short and helpful videos on how to set up dies and do stuff. No easier way to get started.