Anybody use bore butter? My dad swore by it. I've read different opinions, just checking what yall use. Took mk85 to range today to set scope. Got it loaded, installed cap, pulled trigger, no dice. Nipple was plugged up. Could of sworn I'd cleaned it well. Took Hoppes and carb cleaner to get the crud out. Try again Wednesday

If using BP or 777,or Pyrodex, I use bore butter or substitute .If BH209 and of the standards, that I use in mycneter fires .The claim is BP will build hard carbon deposits if standard petroleum based oils are used

I've used Bore Butter in the past but have switched to Ballistol .

I always snap a cap on an empty barrel to prove the nipple is clear before the first load.

Always used Bore Butter when shooting black powders subs. I also ALWAYS snapped a couple primers before loading. I never had a mis-fire.

T/C Number 13 bore cleaner and Hoppes 9 black powder gun bore cleaner is really good for swabbing the bore between shots. Bore Butter is, too, and it doesn't creep into the drum on a sidelock as badly as water based liquid bore cleaners can. I've had some miss fires after the drum got wet and I didn't take the time to fire a few caps off before loading the next roound. Bore butter doesn't do that, and it can make loading a tight lead bullet easier.

I use Ballistol as a rust preventative. But in the past, to keep it "all natural" and good smelling, I've used Bore Butter as an exterior rust prevantive. It worked fine. It's just a bit messy and doesn't creep into nooks and crannies like Ballistol does. I pretty much just use Ballistol now.

My older[27 years] TC Thunderhawk has only had TC's non petro based cleaner and BB used in it.
Non-removable breech, I always have the nipple out when swabbing with BB and run a small wire through nipple occasionally during season.

A little dampness in the drum can be a big pain in the butt. When those kinds of misfires occur, I usually just take the side screw out of the drum, or screw off the nipple, and put a pinch of black powder in the drum and put the screw or muzzle back in. That's enough to power through whatever little damp powder there is that a No. 11 cap doesn't have the power to get through.

I had a couple of rifles that shot well with bore butter, Crisco, or lithium grease and two that would not group at all until all that bore butter was cleaned out. I eventually learned the "history and marketing" of bore butter and never touched the stuff again I use Ballistol for patch lube and bear oil or CLP for lubrication and rust preventative.

I'm thinking I cleaned the bore, lubed it, anti seize on threads of breech plug and nipple, and just forgot to clean nipple. Wouldn't be the 1st nimrod move I've made.

The problem with bore butter is that it can trap moisture between it and the bore, causing a lot of rust. I don’t mind it as patch lube or conical lube, but I wouldn’t coat the bore in it for storage. My $0.02.

Final swabbing with alcohol, dry, and then apply bore butter. My TC Hawkin was purchased in76.I am on my third barrel. I wore the first two out but have never had a bit of rust come out on patches. It has not been shot for two years and I don't expect to see any. Of course I live in Colorado where humidity is low, but that final swab with alcohol is sure to get all the moisture out.

I used bore butter in my TC Hawken for about 20 years. It was great as a Maxiball lube, as a quick cleaner in the field and as a bore protector before storage. There was never an issue with corrosion or misfires. The rifle was shot a lot and the bore was still pristine when I sold the rifle after I moved to an Encore. I still use bore butter in the Encore barrel for storage between seasons.

No, olive oil only, think Grannies favorite seasoned cast iron skillet.

You will NEVER season a modern barrel with anything and olive oil smoke point is so low you dont want to season a pan/skillet with it either. Bore Butter is total garbage. A bore should be swabbed free of any oils prior to shooting anyway. Modern synthetic oils are a million times better at preventing corrosion. Even mineral oil based products like Ballistol are much much better than Bore BUMMER.

Go get a can of WD40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor. The stuff is great at preventing corrosion. Just swab it out before firing then snap a couple primers or caps before loading.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-S...Lasting-Anti-Rust-Spray-300035/300719560

Thanks for the replies folks

Went to range again today, and apparently there was still some trash in the nipple. Sounded like a cap gun. Pissed and embarrassed I came home and cleaned the heck outta everything. Safety pin and carb cleaner thoroughly through nipple. Fired it into a log out back. Try again tomorrow

I bought my TC Hawkin 50 Cal new in 1989 from Gander Mtn. All I have ever used is Bore Butter to protect the metal after cleaning with warm soapy water. I do squirt a shot of wd40 in the nipple hole before replacing the nipple after cleaning. Has worked fine for 30+ years.

I used TC Bore Butter, TC Gorilla Grease, and TC bore cleaner for years to good effect and without any problems before I found out how terrible it was. I even used TC Bore Butter as an exterior protectant. My rifle got rained on and was left sitting after firing for more than a day on many occassions without any rust.

I've also used Frog Lube and have a good supply of Frog Lube that's still good that I bought back in the mid 2000s when it was all the rage for ARs. Despite the bashing Frog Lube got, it actually worked very well in ARs. I've used it on black powder guns as a bore treatment and general protectant and never had a problem with it, either. I actually think Frog Lube missed its calling when it didn't market their produicts to the BP community. It makes a great patch lube, cleans BP fouling very eall, and is a very good anti-rust protectant.

17 years with nothing but hot water cleaning and Bore Butter for protection and not a speck of rust inside or out on my T/C Hawken.

Set it a few days ago. Took 4 shots to zero @ 50 yds, that's as far as I'll shoot were I'll be hunting. Cleaned the heck out of it, then a patch of alcohol, afterwards a light swipe through of rem oil. I'll check it, and run a patch through it right before I go hunting

My protocol is to snap a couple caps and then swab the bore with acetone before leaving the house, to clear oil out of things. When loading before stepping into the woods I'll dry fire it again and then load it. I figure the greased patch will leave enough protective coating for a day of walking (stumbling) around.

For storage I merely use CLP in the bore and have never had an issue in over 40 years since I started using it.

Once I CLEAN my M-L, when it will sit a while(months) I go a little heavy on the oil in the bore. I will patch & dry everything before I load again.

Most of the times it’s just extra Hoppes 9 inside.

Don't blame the cleaning storage regimen...caplocks are notoriously unreliable as everyone knows.

One things for sure, everyone has their own "method"!

I do the same except with a dry patch pushed down in the barrel. Holds that fire right in the nipple and snail where I want to make sure no oil is at.

Bore Butter works very well if you use it very correctly. Anything mis-used tends to mis-function. I've been using bore butter since the mid 90s with no problems. You're supposed to snap some caps on the nipple before loading to be sure the nipple and "channel" are cleared. If you did that at all, your results prove you did it poorly. Since I don't like leaving potentially corrosive residue in the gun, I do something a little different. I clean with hot water and #13, then swab the inside .. and outside .. of the bore with bore butter while the barrel is still so hot the bore butter melts .. then after it cools, I wipe off the excess and swab out the excess with patches. I clean the nipple separately with boiling water and paper towels, etc to be sure it is clean, then use a little bore butter as anti-seize on the threads before reinstalling the nipple. When that is all done, my extra step is to "squirt" some CO2 via a silent ball discharger through the nipple to clear the channel. When it is time to load the gun to hunt, I run 1-2 more dry patches through the barrel just to clean up anything that I missed before and I repeat the CO2 treatment to clear the flash channel without getting residue from popped caps in there corroding things. May not be the very best but it is the very best I've found and it **works**. I can't think of the last time I had a first-try misfire with a clean gun. I'll get maybe 1-2 per 100 shots with a slightly dirty gun (I do a fast wet-swab + dry patch between shots) which I attribute to either not seating the cap firmly or some other moron stunt. The first one goes bang, always, always.