My FFg supply is low, and I won't be able to make it to the Synagogue of Holy Black anytime soon. But a small House of Worship carries FFFg.
Anyone have any words of advice on using FFFg for PRB's in a 54?
I use it all the time. It's about 5-10% more powerful, so adjust for the same load, or enjoy more fps with the same load as your 2F. It also ignites a little easier, and has less fouling.
Got to keep it slow.
My Kodiak is regulated like a DGR, so I have a narrow window between "kill stuff" and "too fast causes excess spread" - if I want to use one rear sight.
I've got it set right now where 85gr FFg gives me a 5" spread at 100 yards. Got the sights set in between. What's 2.5" between friends, right?
Damn gun crosses at about 25 yards.
In that case you'll have to play with the 3F powder to get it accurate. Start with 10gr less, and see how it does.
Thanks, MH.
If nothing else, knocking 20gr off the combined charge will reduce the overall loaded weight.
(that's a joke)
Thanks, MH.
If nothing else, knocking 20gr off the combined charge will reduce the overall loaded weight.
(that's a joke)
And a good one too. With those doubles, every little bit helps.
I use nothing but T7 3F in my 54 cal Lyman Great Plains Rifle and patched RB. I use 80 gr with Hornady Ball
running 90gr of Swiss FFFg under a PRB in my .54. It shoots pretty decent, considering the bore has some pitting. A young boar fell to it earlier this year.
I use 3f in my .54s and also use it for a primer in my flinters.
As mentioned, drop the charge a bit compared to 2f.
I run 3F in a custom .54 with a PRB all the time. 80 grains works great and chrono's in the 1590's.
. in my 54 i have never used anything but 3F . in my 62 i tried 2F but settled back on 3F. about the only place i use 2F is in my 12 gage paper loads
I use 3F in my 20 ga. smoothbore.
Qtip
Soli Deo Gloria!
We talkin Goex, Swiss? I use 70 g Goex 3F in 2 T/C .54's behind a PRB and get great results. I've all but quit using 2F Goex, although 2F swiss is good stuff.
We talkin Goex, Swiss? I use 70 g Goex 3F in 2 T/C .54's behind a PRB and get great results. I've all but quit using 2F Goex, although 2F swiss is good stuff.
2F Swiss is almost 3F. Sort of 2 1/2F They measure the kernels different over there.
FWIW,
I've got an old CVA St. Louis Hawken .50 I've had since I was 16.
For years the load was 85grn. FFF, Ox-Yoke Patch, Speer .490 ball. I always figured 85 of FFF would give more speed than 90grn. FF, plus, it would never shoot worth a hoot with FF and Ox-Yoke patches, which I used for years.
Bout two years ago I ran out of Ox-Yoke patches, so I bought some pillow ticking and smeared bore butter on them. I tried FF again and it shot as well as FFF. Then, I broke out the Chrony, the FF (90grn) load ran 1800fps. The FFF (85grn) load only ran 1700fps. Not that 100fps is a big deal, but it did fly in the face of what I had assumed to be true for the better part of 25 years.
It also taught me that the patch do make a difference!
It also taught me that the patch do make a difference!
No doubt.
I was using some "leftover from previous owner" .012" patches that by the numbers should fill to the lands nicely, i.e the barrel measured .532/.542 - with the .012 patch, and a .530 round ball, I should be .012" over diameter once loaded.
Tried some .024 denim patches, and it closed my regulation by 2" at 50 yards. A lot more consistent as well.
Go figure.
FWIW,
I've got an old CVA St. Louis Hawken .50 I've had since I was 16.
For years the load was 85grn. FFF, Ox-Yoke Patch, Speer .490 ball. I always figured 85 of FFF would give more speed than 90grn. FF, plus, it would never shoot worth a hoot with FF and Ox-Yoke patches, which I used for years.
Bout two years ago I ran out of Ox-Yoke patches, so I bought some pillow ticking and smeared bore butter on them. I tried FF again and it shot as well as FFF. Then, I broke out the Chrony, the FF (90grn) load ran 1800fps. The FFF (85grn) load only ran 1700fps. Not that 100fps is a big deal, but it did fly in the face of what I had assumed to be true for the better part of 25 years.
It also taught me that the patch do make a difference!
Makes no sense. Read this.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/228706
Interesting.
It did put me to thinking about variables at the time.
First, I've never used an overpowder wad.
Second, I'd be curious if there's such a thing as a slow lot of FFF and a fast lot of FF. It can happen with smokeless, and I'm sure it was an older can of FFF and a newer can of FF I had that day. Recipe change? Difference in ingredients?
Further, I didn't run long strings, I ran two rounds each and went on. Admittedly, not a great statistical cross section.
I didn't write down exact speeds (I gotta take better range notes) though I do remember there was right on 100fps between loads with the FF being the faster @ right on 1800fps. Those were the results from that particular day. How do I remember them? Cause I'm still shooting FF!
Remember, I was shooting 5 grains MORE FF than FFF.
Maybe I (or my chrony) was mistaken. Maybe I need to do more testing. Maybe being as how either load will put three in under and inch (often in one hole) @ 50 yards, I'm not gonna worry too much at either speed.
I will say I've meant to test it further. But I hate chronographing. I'd much rather shoot at targets and have had very little luck (like Herb) lining out both at the same time.
Herb is really into the details. I've never seen him post a short message.
I've read several of Herb's posts on the ALR forum.
He's definitely more "detail oreinted" than I am!
I have shot ML for a long time and have tried many variables in shot and powders. No one has mentioned barrel length in regards to powder burn. I shoot a 58 cal flintlock with a 42 inch barrel. I shoot 2F powder and feel it gets a complete powder burn in a 42 inch barrel length. Shooting a Hawken style gun with a short barrel, I would shoot 3F powder. Partly because of the short barrel but also the 3F powder would fill the side breech better, being a finer powder. In a flintlock I add a flash pan powder that is a 4F or finer. Actually I take my 2F powder and crush it with my wooden powder horn stopper and use it in the pan. Some of it is a super fine powder that is dust. When the flint strikes and the sparks drop, the frizzen raises which will pull some of the dust up into the air. The spark is igniting the dust first then the remainder. It is a fast ignition given all other lock timing is correct. All powder is coated to make it less hazardous from friction, therefore even purchased 4F is not as good as crushing your own. Just my take and experiences with black powder. Hope it helps or gives another perspective.
My FFg supply is low, and I won't be able to make it to the Synagogue of Holy Black anytime soon. But a small House of Worship carries FFFg.
Anyone have any words of advice on using FFFg for PRB's in a 54?
Both my T/C Renegade and T/C New Englander .54's like 85gr of Goex 3f, a .535 Hornady swaged RB
wrapped in a .015" lubed patch.
Ed
Ok ill mention it . I use 3F in my 54 which has a 42 inch hand forged iron barrel . My Hudson valley which has a 56 inch barrel .
i use 3 or 4f in the pans but mostly 4F.
in my SXS's the have 32 inch barrels or less and range from 12 gage , 16 gage and 20 gage . i use 2 F in those as i have found that 2 F does not spread the shot pattern a great as 3F
. in my 54 i have never used anything but 3F . in my 62 i tried 2F but settled back on 3F. about the only place i use 2F is in my 12 gage paper loads
I use 3f in my .62 cal. also. How many grains are you using in yours Captchee?
I use nothing but T7 3F in my Lyman Great Plains 54 cal Rifle with the Hornady Patched Round Ball
I use 3f swiss in my 54 hawken with a PRB..