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Posted By: LeroyJenkins Crystallize your thinking - 06/24/13
I lived in Anchorage for 6.5 years, and am now actively planning/preparing to move back. My timeline is largely career oriented, likely 1-2 years out. I am not married, have no kids, no house, and no debt. I work for a good company that is mainly based on the east coast and major international hubs, so unfortunately no transfers.

I work in the Information Technology field (Mostly active directory and Microsoft troubleshooting)
Cost of living and higher travel costs (to lower 48 for family), been there done that.

Looking to move to Alaska for the long haul, buying a house and getting married/family are two main goals for that.


Basically looking for [Linked Image]
I want to hunt, fish, hike like a madman and spend the majority of my time outdoors. I live meagerly, don�t care what I drive or what labels I wear.

Based on the above where would you recommend I focus my efforts and further research.
Most job oppertunities more then likely, Anchorage.

No jobs but fits everything you want to do, Haines.

Good compromise, Juneau.
You don't have to go far from A-Town to be in mountain man territory. I'm sure there are jobs in Anchorage also alot of jobs up on the slope and they will fly you back and forth to Fairbanks or Anchorage. I am Military and have been here for 4 years and will be here for 3 more and myself and my wife decided already we will be here for retirement. I will have 7 years left when I leave here but we are planning to retire near Anchorage. It's nice to have a city with all its crap for the wife and be able to drive a few aways to be in the middle of Gods country.
I've never visited Juneau, but it seems like a very equitable compromise . What sort of fishing do they have out that way? Obviously halibut, rockfish, etc from ocean type fishing. Any silvers or kings?

How is the hunting? What all can you get to off of a trail, and hiking in a day or two?

Any wife material out there?


I appreciate the local knowledge, and am happy to repay the courtesy with South Dakota hunting/fishing secrets
Kings, Coho's, Sockeye, Humpies, and Dogs. Cutthroat Trout, Steelhead, Dolly Varden, Lingcod, and crabs.

Hunting depending on who you ask is great to not good. I tend to say that it is great with a little work. Ducks, geese, birds, Sitka Blacktail deer, Black bear, Brown bear, Mtn Goats, and Wolf.

Hiking all you could want or handle. One of my favorites is Spaulding Meadows Trail to Montana Creek (yes my campfire handle). Another good one or must do is West Glacier Trail to Mount MCGinnis trail it will take you to the peak, some amazing views. If you ski or snowboard its a must do in the winter too! Nugget creek trail, Thunder Mountain bowl trail, Sheep creek tra il, Bear creek and Bear creek to Granite creek are also worth a trip. Those should get you warmed up anyways.

As for wife material YES however there is also a lot of competition for them!
If you move up there I will give you some other great hikes. The ones I listed above are the ones I actually know the trail names of.
Posted By: cwh2 Re: Crystallize your thinking - 06/25/13
Juneau is one of very few places I'd recommend visiting in the summer to see just how bad it gets, before you move.

Between the politicians, the hippies, and the tourists, it wouldn't be in my top 10, but there are jobs there. As much as I dislike Anchorage, I prefer the options here. I don't mean to insult anyone's home - Juneau itsself is a great place, but like a lot of great places it is overrun with a-holes.

Originally Posted by MontanaCreekHunter
Kings, Coho's, Sockeye, Humpies, and Dogs. Cutthroat Trout, Steelhead, Dolly Varden, Lingcod, and crabs.

Hunting depending on who you ask is great to not good. I tend to say that it is great with a little work. Ducks, geese, birds, Sitka Blacktail deer, Black bear, Brown bear, Mtn Goats, and Wolf.

Hiking all you could want or handle. One of my favorites is Spaulding Meadows Trail to Montana Creek (yes my campfire handle). Another good one or must do is West Glacier Trail to Mount MCGinnis trail it will take you to the peak, some amazing views. If you ski or snowboard its a must do in the winter too! Nugget creek trail, Thunder Mountain bowl trail, Sheep creek tra il, Bear creek and Bear creek to Granite creek are also worth a trip. Those should get you warmed up anyways.

As for wife material YES however there is also a lot of competition for them!



I very much appreciate the insight. Glad to hear bear, goats, and wolf are on the table! Juneau seems like a good fit for me, other than the housing costs.

I ski every year so knowing that is an option is a huge plus as well.



I recently lived in Pierre, SD, which has about 10,000 people and is the capital so I have some inkling as to the territory/politicians. 10k was a whisker too small, as drinking was the main past-time for most folks, at least until hunting season. Rapid City, SD was a whisker too large, Brookings, SD was about right but the college skewed the numbers. Birmingham, AL where I am currently is painful, hot, humid, horrible, hectic, and high-strung.

Juneau has about 30k people correct? I would guess with a healthy percentage of young/young-ish professionals that work for the state?





I keep reading on here about Los-Anchorage and how the town has been changing in the most recent years, which concerns me.
See everyone see's things different. I think Juneau is pretty laid back. I try not to sterotype but in my experiance Anchorage had more then its fair share of undesireables.

Juneau's one big downfall to me is the tourist ships.

Most jobs in your line of work I would think will be either State or City and Borough of Juneau.

If your going to live in Juneau and want to capitalize on all the outdoor oppertunities you really need a boat. 18' to 20' skiff at a minimum in my opinion.

I look at Juneau as my base camp and the surrounds my playgrounds.

You ski so besides all the backcountry you can handle there is Eagle Crest (resort if you will) across the bidge on Douglas. From the lift there is easy access to some great backcountry. Warning make sure you know your chit and the people you plan to enter into the backcountry do as well. If you have never taken an Avi course and have no backcountry experiance stick to Eagle Crest until you can get some training. Once you have training and you meet folks to hit the backcountry with be honest and upfront with them about your lack of experiance. We all started off the same way.
Yea George, we have more than our share of Left Wing, Tree Huggin, Carpet Munchin, Harry Armpit, Granola Eatin, Subaru Drivin, Bunny Huggin, Liberals in this town. So don't say we didn't warn ya.

If your looking for IT work, look to the city or state.

Hunting and fishing, well, it is as good as you make it. Hunt hard, and you will eventually connect. Fishing is very time specific, one day you will slay em, the next day you will be pulling your hair out. There are some really awesome trails around here, Google Juneau Trail Mix. They are the fine folks who upgrade and maintain the trails.

MCH-

I have done a little bit of back-country stuff, and I most ski black and double black in Colorado. I have ability and the athleticism to ski hard, but lack the experience for the 'beyond the ropes' type skiing. Though I'm lookin' to change that. I take it the pow is wet and heavy? Moisture content?

When I lived in Anchorage a 17 ft' Alumaweld with a 150 HP johnson prop/jet made adventures possible. A bit small for ocean going, but it got to Pony Cove a time or two, and got a few mountain goats for friends. Even enough for some wild times on Lake Tustumena crazy

Most fishing done from a boat then? Any salmon runs in rivers?



Glenn -

I've had my share of bleeding heart liberals, so I know how to handle those 'people' grin


I have no quarrels with hunting hard, and that is my preference.








Is a vehicle necessary?
If you don't mind the bus nuts, the bus is a good way to get around. There are folks who ride there bikes year round, though I don't see how they do it at 15�. There ain't that much road, the main road just got extended to 42 miles.
Heck, there are some that ride bicycles in Fbks in the winter. They're tough to see through the ice fog.
Bikes and cold weather are no problem; bikes and ice are another matter, ask me how I know blush
LOL

Studded bike tires. wink
Originally Posted by George_in_SD
MCH-

I have done a little bit of back-country stuff, and I most ski black and double black in Colorado. I have ability and the athleticism to ski hard, but lack the experience for the 'beyond the ropes' type skiing. Though I'm lookin' to change that. I take it the pow is wet and heavy? Moisture content?

When I lived in Anchorage a 17 ft' Alumaweld with a 150 HP johnson prop/jet made adventures possible. A bit small for ocean going, but it got to Pony Cove a time or two, and got a few mountain goats for friends. Even enough for some wild times on Lake Tustumena crazy

Most fishing done from a boat then? Any salmon runs in rivers?



Glenn -

I've had my share of bleeding heart liberals, so I know how to handle those 'people' grin


I have no quarrels with hunting hard, and that is my preference.








Is a vehicle necessary?


I don't doubt you abilities. I am just saying that once you meet up with folks to hit the backcountry be honest with them. If your the strongest link it should be known before the shtf as is if you are the weakest link. Safety is big to me. I lost a good friend on Mount MCGinnis.

I would say a car is needed. There is a bus system that covers downtown to the valley and Auke bay. Good luck telling your date you'll pick her up at the bus stop.
Originally Posted by MontanaCreekHunter
Originally Posted by George_in_SD
MCH-

I have done a little bit of back-country stuff, and I most ski black and double black in Colorado. I have ability and the athleticism to ski hard, but lack the experience for the 'beyond the ropes' type skiing. Though I'm lookin' to change that. I take it the pow is wet and heavy? Moisture content?

When I lived in Anchorage a 17 ft' Alumaweld with a 150 HP johnson prop/jet made adventures possible. A bit small for ocean going, but it got to Pony Cove a time or two, and got a few mountain goats for friends. Even enough for some wild times on Lake Tustumena crazy

Most fishing done from a boat then? Any salmon runs in rivers?



Glenn -

I've had my share of bleeding heart liberals, so I know how to handle those 'people' grin


I have no quarrels with hunting hard, and that is my preference.








Is a vehicle necessary?


I don't doubt you abilities. I am just saying that once you meet up with folks to hit the backcountry be honest with them. If your the strongest link it should be known before the shtf as is if you are the weakest link. Safety is big to me. I lost a good friend on Mount MCGinnis.

I would say a car is needed. There is a bus system that covers downtown to the valley and Auke bay. Good luck telling your date you'll pick her up at the bus stop.


Oh certainly so. I did some back-country stuff up near Steamboat springs last year, and was open/honest about my abilities and knowledge. Had a blast, and was safe. (My motto is safety first, then teamwork grin)

Suppose if I don't bring a vehicle, what would I tow a boat with � crazy Good point about a date also.


So for goats in that area, do most tool from cove-to-cove and stalk em' ? Or is backpacking in an option?
Goats would require a hike for sure. I don't know anyplace a boat would be of value. Maybe to get you up the Taku river but even there would still require a hike.
I "hear" ya can do that up Tracy Arm. Yankee basin is supposed to be a place to hike in to goat hunt, but I hear the trail is anything but friendly past a certain point. Most people I talk to usually fly into an alpine lake, and that can get spendy pretty quick. There is a bow hut area that is fairly easy access, if that is even possible with goats.
Tracy arm has goats. But that is a hike for someone not knowing the area. As the Taku was probably not a good suggestion on my part either. If I remember right the bow hunt area is good and close.
Oh my preference is for a hike, and a brutal one at that. I need to feel like I earned the trophy grin So I'm glad to hear that hiking is the preferential method

Reason I mention boats as I have hunted out of one, towards Seward IIRC.



Tracy arm has some very brutal hikes, but you don't need to go that far for some good vertical hiking.
Well I spent my evening poking around the web, mainly focused on housing. Initially I was disappointed at the high cost/low availability. But I found some smaller free standing homes, and condos that were affordable by my standards. Several condos I found were around 150k which was not too far off from Alabama prices. Am I missing something with these? Obviously fees/dues etc factor in...


Now to just put in my dues at work and keep socking dough away like a crack fiend.
I have known a few to live in tents and Yurts! But they weren't trying to hold down a corporate job. LOL
Where are you in Bama?
grin


I'm going to pray about this, and chat with my brother who is visiting this weekend.

How are the churches and schools up that way?
Originally Posted by MontanaCreekHunter
Where are you in Bama?


Bombingham (Birmingham)

Believe it is the worst place i've ever lived in.
Been up there a few times. I lived on the opposite end of the state.

Church as in a building with pews and an alter? I don't know. But its gods country all around you.

Having something like this wouldn't be to bad!
http://www.seawolfmarine.com/ModelsOptions/SeawolfPilothouse2528.aspx
Quite tempting. Would that be to live in as well? I can't begin to speculate as to what they cost, and if you have to ask blush
You could live in it. But back to the looking for a woman thing, so what do you say we go back to my boat! LOL Oh yeah the bus will get us there!

I am not 100% but I believe something like that goes 100K+, minus motor/electronics.
Something like this would surely work too while saving you some coin.

http://www.hewescraft.com/mid-size-ocean-boats/sea-runner
Originally Posted by MontanaCreekHunter
so what do you say we go back to my boat! LOL Oh yeah the bus will get us there!



Still laughing over this one!


Sure would be great using a boat like that every day/weekend. I saw quite a few boats/houseboats on craigslist just poking around earlier. Something to think about whistle
This would work too for the budget conscience!

http://www.lundboats.com/boats/2013-aluminum/alaskan/2000-alaskan
I would rather have a good truck, a boat, and an ok house, then a really nice house, ride the bus and no boat. If your spending that much time in your house then your living in Juneau for no good reason.
I'm right there with you on every point!

A house is a place to eat and sleep, and the outdoors is for really living.


Boat wise a 20ish foot aluminum with hard cabin would be living the freaking 'I won the lottery dream' Any truck that can pull it works for me.
Also, it would not surprise me if you had a few bookmarks for boats online whistle

Good reading material that gets me pumped up!
I personally would want a beater truck up in Haines too.
Oh I drive a '94 honda accord down here that is cherry blush A reliable beater is the name of the game
No bookmarks. Just shooting you some options. If I move back up I will have a 25ish foot Aluminum boat with cabin for sure.
How old were you when you lived in Alaska?
I moved to Fargo, ND in 03 or 04 during high school, so a yougin' by any stretch. Lived there long enough to know I'm going back, especially now that I'm educated and working.
Originally Posted by glenninjuneau
I "hear" ya can do that up Tracy Arm. Yankee basin is supposed to be a place to hike in to goat hunt, but I hear the trail is anything but friendly past a certain point. Most people I talk to usually fly into an alpine lake, and that can get spendy pretty quick. There is a bow hut area that is fairly easy access, if that is even possible with goats.


I've got a pard that has done 2 goat hunts with his bow somewhere in SE and i'm thinking this might be it. If it is, that hunt is very doable with a bow, he's 2 for 2 on that hunt.
I lived all over the state during my young adult years & even have a cabin in Haines. If it were me, I would concentrate on the wife thing first and before you marry her, make known your ultimate dream of moving to Alaska.

Single women tend to be few & far between. Locally raised gals are a piece of work. The only time I had a legit girlfriend was when they came up for the summer from the lower-48; about every 3rd year; then they went home for the winter.

I wouldn't consider myself a catch, but I have a lot of good things going for me, including very good jobs. Alaska is wonderful, but after my experience, I'm convinced it is for young or "young spirited" couples who are committed to one another & enjoy the outdoors.

If you don't believe me on the women thing, here are a few favorite sayings:
"No one gets divorced or breaks up, you just lose your turn."

"Alaska, where men are men & women are too!"

"Remember girls when you leave Alaska you're ugly again."

As far as where to live, get back to me after you find your soul mate.

I did it backward, moved North, moved South, Just married relatively recently and will be moving back North again when my boys are close to finishing college. Save the round trip and take a good gal up with you, then get back to me for details on relocating.

I would say generally speaking, if they like snow & weather, & you can get back down in the lower-48 during the holiday to visit family & such, they will enjoy it. It's all about having a good attitude & sense of humor.

There's a of of marriages in remote Alaska, that can't take the move "Outside"; and there's a lot of "Outside" marriages that can't take remote Alaska.
Originally Posted by Kushtekaa
I lived all over the state during my young adult years & even have a cabin in Haines. If it were me, I would concentrate on the wife thing first and before you marry her, make known your ultimate dream of moving to Alaska.

Single women tend to be few & far between. Locally raised gals are a piece of work. The only time I had a legit girlfriend was when they came up for the summer from the lower-48; about every 3rd year; then they went home for the winter.

I wouldn't consider myself a catch, but I have a lot of good things going for me, including very good jobs. Alaska is wonderful, but after my experience, I'm convinced it is for young or "young spirited" couples who are committed to one another & enjoy the outdoors.

If you don't believe me on the women thing, here are a few favorite sayings:
"No one gets divorced or breaks up, you just lose your turn."

"Alaska, where men are men & women are too!"

"Remember girls when you leave Alaska you're ugly again."

As far as where to live, get back to me after you find your soul mate.

I did it backward, moved North, moved South, Just married relatively recently and will be moving back North again when my boys are close to finishing college. Save the round trip and take a good gal up with you, then get back to me for details on relocating.

I would say generally speaking, if they like snow & weather, & you can get back down in the lower-48 during the holiday to visit family & such, they will enjoy it. It's all about having a good attitude & sense of humor.




Certainly some wisdom here, but like any good youngin' I am genetically inclined to ignore some of it grin
Besides

[Linked Image]
I appreciate your honesty & that being the case I would suggest the Anchorage or surrounding area (Palmer, Willow, Eagle R, etc.). There are more available gals there, jobs, plenty of hiking, & you can readily access good parts of the state by road. You can explore on the weekends and find out what you like without overcommiting to one area.

If you further your career and want to move I would suggest the Kenai area / Homer, Kodiak, or Southeast, Alaska except Juneau. At least visit Juneau for a week in the winter to see if you like it because IMO it has some of the worst weather in the state or at least the worst combination of wet & cold, plus you are hemmed in with no place to go unless you have a deep-V boat & then you can only use that pushing about 8 months out of the year.

The interior is possible, it does have good hunting for moose & caribou. If you watch the TV series called "Yukon Men" on the Discovery channel that will give you a good idea of the interior portion of the state at least on the big rivers.

My favorite places in Alaska are Tenakee Springs, Haines, Homer, & Cooper Landing. Mind you these are fairly small places, especially the first and the last, but to me you are living right in the thick of the wilderness everyday. Resources are slim or high priced so you have to some ingenuity to get by. Also, I believe that having mechanical skills are the best skill you can have for the state because you are constantly jumping in a truck, on a 4-wheeler, snow machine, boat, etc... & that stuff just doesn't like to run in the cold & wet sometimes.

Good Luck in whatever your endeavours
Posted By: las Re: Crystallize your thinking - 06/27/13
Well, trails ain't much here in Kotz, but you could hike 40 miles down the beach no problem. Buying a house could be a bit tricky too (very limited), but the rest is all here.

God knows we need some IT expertise here.

We joke (OK- it's not a joke) that they walk electrons up here one at a time at gunpoint...

GCI and OTZ are our internet providers.
Originally Posted by las
that they walk electrons up here one at a time at gunpoint


I good quite the chuckle from that one.


Any good talking points would be greatly appreciated, so feel free to continue the discussion.


Originally Posted by George_in_SD




Birmingham, AL where I am currently is painful, hot, humid, horrible, hectic, and high-strung.



You should've picked Huntsville, one of the nicest towns in the SE.

Of course, I'd still rather be in AK, or MT.
Ole' [bleep]?

I've been to Jims gun and pawn IIRC on the name; was quite a nice gunshop in a terrible black area of town.

I wasn't too impressed driving through the city on a few occasions, but that does not say much.
Posted By: las Re: Crystallize your thinking - 07/05/13
Craigslist Seattle, etc.
Posted By: Calvin Re: Crystallize your thinking - 07/05/13
Originally Posted by cwh2
Juneau is one of very few places I'd recommend visiting in the summer to see just how bad it gets, before you move.

Between the politicians, the hippies, and the tourists, it wouldn't be in my top 10, but there are jobs there. As much as I dislike Anchorage, I prefer the options here. I don't mean to insult anyone's home - Juneau itsself is a great place, but like a lot of great places it is overrun with a-holes.



Agreed. Juneau just doesn't have it.
http://alaskaslist.com/1_Alaska/

Alaska List; in case nobody already gave you the link. Real estate for sale by owner mostly
some good info here....I like where I'm at ...nobody for miles...no jobs for miles....and no food stamp sourdoughs,for at least 15 miles that I know of....
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