With a thread about scales running concurrently, I figured it would be interesting to see what the gang is using in the way of measures. What tools/methods are y'all using to get the powder from the jug into the cartridge cases?

I've used a bunch of measures in my life but I'm happy to skate through my Golden Years (which suck, by the way) using but two. The main one, used primarily at the bench at home, is an ancient Belding&Mull. It is very very consistent and handles all but the coarsest grain powders with aplomb. Even with small charges of small-flaked pistol powders it is a dandy. The downside is its crude adjustment of the drop tube, but once set (with the aid of an equally old 10-10 scale) it stays set and because of its unique sliding powder chamber which stays consistently filled as the powder level drops in the hopper, charges are guaranteed consistent. It's like an old friend I couldn't bear to be without.

The second one is a Harrell's measure. I opted for the Schuetzen model as I reckon to never use it for any higher weight charges than the 25 grains max it's rated for. It is without a doubt the finest swing arm measure I've ever used, in terms of accuracy/consistency and a very subjective "feel" which is hard to verbalize. I use it for pistol charges up through charges of fast-ish powders for the cast bullet .22/.25/.30/.32 shooting I do (said charges hover in the 12-20 grain range typically). Where it shines over the Belding&Mull is in its micrometer-adjusted repeatability - make note of the micrometer setting of the powder drum and I'll guarantee you it'll throw a charge on the money when you revisit that powder/charge six months later. I also like it for outdoor use at the range - I sat and worked out the settings for different powder charges with it at home and then take it to the range when doing experimental work, obviating the effects of wind/weather on the powder dispensing protocols. It really shines in regard to using it for breech seating cast bullets wherein a bullet is seated straight into the rifling ahead of a charged case, said case used over and over countless times without resizing by merely de-and re-capping and then throwing a measure of powder into it. After I got this measure I wondered howinhell I had ever got along without it.

Note, my requirements are fairly simple as I don't employ progressive loading machines - at the home loading bench cases are prepped and lined up in blocks wherein they're filled individually and powder levels in them are checked with a flashlight for safety peace of mind, even "high volume" pistol projects which for me are batches of a couple hundred .38's or .45's. My choice of measures and scales suits me just fine for that.

I mostly use a Redding BR-30 with a baffle in the hopper.

When I load for volume, I use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure. For everything else, Lee scoops and a scale.

Harrell's Custom or a Lee's Perfect. Opposite ends of the cost scale but both very accurate.

I had a RCBS but when I got a Redding BR30, I gave the RCBS away.

Only throw I've ever had or used is a Lee. I load and shoot on such a small scale the thing aint worth fiddling with. So I use the dippers to eyeball an approximation into the scale pan and an RCBS trickler to balance the beam.

I do the same thing. I mostly use IMR stick powders and found the powder measure I have won't measure them consistently anyway. For me it's more efficient to use the measures and add a little.

My current powder measure is made by Hornady......and it's a great tool IMO.

Prior to that I had a Herter's It also was a fine tool.

The development of short cut powders and super short powders has helped a lot for consistency but the biggest assist was when I realized that +/- 1/2 grain of extruded powders in cases like the .270 and .30-06 (and others of that volume and larger) really didn't mean squat. Just load them and go hunting.

Ball powders feed quite accurately in any measure I've ever used and as time moves ahead I find more and more of them in my cupboard.

RCBS Uniflow. Measures most stuff close enough except really course powders like 4831. When it's on the progressive, I just use powder that meters well.

i use a a Redding bench rest volume powder measure on a anchored goose neck thing ,seems to work fine.

Don't ever waste your money on that basic Hornady measure. It is incapable of handling stick powders. The cheesy little Lee perfect kicks its ass.

I inherited a BR-30, but sold it after it wasn’t a good fit for me. Now I just use a Little Dandy for some handgun stuff.

It ain’t for your “favorite” Trail Boss though!

I've been happy with my Redding BR-30 for rifle cartridges. I load most pistol rounds on a Dillon XL750 with the Dillon powder measure. It works well too.

Harrells, Lyman DPS III, half-dozen Dillon's on tool-heads with dies corresponding their powder make and setting

Have a Lyman Gen5, but for the most part I use a beam scale and weight each round. Gets cumbersome for pistol rounds, but works quite well.

I only do ball pistol powders so a Lyman 55 works for me

I have a Uniflow that isn't so good with ball powders for some reason. I tried taking it apart and cleaning it again, and fiddling with it to see if I could get the Uniflow to throw a consistent charge. The Lee was better for those propellants. When you have to fuss with your measure all the time, it ends up being faster to use a scoop.

Does anyone have a measure that throws consistently with Unique?

I’m on my second BR-30, the first having gone to the kids. I have both the large and small drums. I’ve always gotten good results. In the past. I would, when using a new powder, take a piece of graph paper and label one axis with the micrometer settings and the other with charge weights in small increments, weigh a couple charges, one near the low end and one near the high, and plot a line through them. Then when I wanted to set it for a particular charge with that powder I could go to my chart for that powder and find the setting that would give me that weight or very, very close to it.

I am still using the measure that came with my Rockchucker set.

It has been used a lot over the last 40+ years.

I like the Uniflow.

I upgraded mine with the Quick Change Metering Cylinder. I have 6 or 7 QC metering screw assemblies adjusted for loads from 10 gr. to 100 gr. So, if I'm gonna load a 60 gr. load, I install the metering screw assembly that's set for a load in that vicinity.

They make small and large assemblies. The small one has a sleeve that cuts down the diameter to that of the Uniflow Small cylinder. Those can be set for light loads and are accurate.

I don't have to do a lot of adjusting, just fine tune the appropriate assembly. I made a wood block with holes to hold the assemblies, each hole with a label.

Works for me.

DF

An old Bonanza (now Forster) bench rest measure is very consistent and repeatable, especially if you know how to use the vernier scale to set it...and always set it by closing the opening with the measure empty. Ball powders meter within plus or minus 0.1 gr in my experience...stick powder about twice that.

Same Here,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

For doing load development it's tough to beat the RCBS chargemaster, once a good load is found I for the most part use my Harrell's premium. it has it's limitations though.........for example my Harrell's will not throw a charge of HS6, for rare exceptions like this I'm glad I didn't throw away the uniflow

An older Ohaus made Dillon Eliminator scale and a pair of the Lee Perfects for me. I use one only for H110 since it is so fine it spills out the baffles and is a pain to completely clear. I store both stuffed with used dryer sheets to stop any static issue.

The key to really consistent charges is to consistently work the lever. Same speed/cadence and the Lee's are dead nutz even with stick powders.

This ^^^^^^^^

Works fine across the board with pistol & rifle powders..................obviously some shearing with the very large & coarse large rifle powders, but great with all others.

MM

Redding benchrest mesure and an ancient Belding & Mull. It’s a shame more folks don’t know about the B&M ……dang accurate measure. My load to load consistency is every bit as good as my Redding. My only problem is I only have the standard drop tube…..I’m out of luck if I’m dropping huge magnum loads. Old Indian trick though is to divide the load in half and drop twice, but it just easier to use the BR measure and be done with it.

"Does anyone have a measure that throws consistently with Unique?"

I've have good luck using my Uniflow for throwing charges of Unique. dunno if it's just a case of good luck or I I just hold the handle the right way. I have three Uniflows ( don't ask) and the other two won't throw Unique worth schidt. Go figure. I use them for handgun loads only with the exception for the .223 Rem. with ball powder..

For rifle cartridges I use the RCBS Chargemaster or Chargemaster Lite. They make resetting for the next charge simple during load work ups. I find them too slow for charging handgun rounds though.
Paul B.

Me three!!

There is a Harrell’s for sale in the classifieds

Unique has always been a problem for me when using a measure. I have an old RCBS Uniflow that's a million years old. It didn't work with some powders despite my efforts to tweak it.

I am going to try a Lee Auto Drum and see if it works. They are $50 CDN.

I have an old Lyman Duo-measure bought in ‘76 that I use sometimes for light handgun plinking loads. I use a scale to check every 5-10 loads. With it having two adjustable cavities, it works well. Normally though, if I’m working up loads I’ll use my Lyman DPS scale/dispenser for more precision.

Started out with an RCBS Uniflow with 2 chambers & still use it with the small chamber for most pistol loading. I got a BR-3 for loading at the range during my foray into benchrest a long time ago. It still sits in the range box with the Wilson dies & Lee Autoprime. Mostly using a BR-30 these days for centerfire rifle.

None of these measures does terribly well with the crunchy old long grained IMR powders. Loading 20 to 50 pieces at a time it's not a big deal to throw c.1/2 gr under desired weight & trickle up.

That is what I do, use a lot of IMR 4350. No big deal

My Redding throws it .3 +- but, the Belding and Mull does much better at .1 grain.

That is what I did as well, until I bought a RCBS Chargemaster. Still do it for small reloading jobs.

My main one...and the one that goes to the range with me...is a tuned-up Redding 3BR. I've got a couple of Belding and Mulls that I've blueprinted and they're also excellent. For handguns, an ancient Herters that I found NIB throws powder like magic.

Good shootin' -Al

Here's an inexpensive trick that might revitalize your powder measure.

1. Take it apart and clean it completely.
2. Use dry graphite lube on the moving surfaces.
3. Reassemble and work powder through it, feeling for any spots where it hangs up. If so, relube.

Often, new measures will have gunk and preservative on them coming from the factory.

I use a Lee Perfect and trickle the last bit onto the scale.

Sample of one maybe-the auto drum works well for me with Unique. The Lee Perfect does +/- .2 grains or so as well, not bad for my Unique loading uses. It's a not full snort revolver powder around my place.

Making sure your new measure s clean and properly adjusted is a good plan, and a bit of dry graphite is too. Running a couple of hoppers of propellant through it also tends to distribute dry graphite through the mechanism, as this is used on the granules of propellant.

Practicing a consistent stroke also helps with consistency: I make one firm stroke down on the handle, without hesitation, hitting the stop firmly at the end of travel, count a beat, and then up. Others may have a different rhythm, but the point is to do it the same way each time. I find it helps in this regard to do a whole batch, charging each case one after the other, before seating bullets. I throw all my charges, and don't throw underweight and trickle up, as I've found by experiment, surprising as it may seem, that if anything I get more consistent velocity that way.

FWIW I've found the Lee Perfect punches well above its weight for consistent results with a wide range of propellant.

That’s been my experience, as well. I use a JDS QuickMeasure, and charging cases is fairly painless with excellent results.

I have used a Lyman #55 for decades, it's smooth, have a rhythm, double tap the handle twice at the bottom of the dump.
If you don't some grains will stay in the bottom of the drum Shute to the cartridge with any static around, so it's a habit and it works.
I usually weigh to get going, and then start loading, stick, ball, flake it don't matter. Big or small charge, this measure eats it all.
Just make sure to tap the handle against the stop.

A handloader needs to do a little testing to see what works for their measure and their personal throwing style.

I don't tap on either end of the stroke of my Redding BR-30. I don't use my only fingertips on the knob of the charging handle either. I grasp the shank and the knob of the handle and dispense the powder with a slow, high torque motion. I'm firm against the stops on both end of the stroke, but no tap. The motion I use prevents kernels of extruded powder from hanging up the stroke or producing a lot of vibration which would change the "settle" of the powder column. It also slows the movement of the powder from the drum to the funnel section of the measure body so I don't have bridging problems.

This method has worked quite well for me with IMR 4064 and 3031 in loading several thousand rounds of 308 Winchester. I haven't done much testing yet, but the method appears to be doing quite well with IMR 4350 in the 6.5 Creedmoor.

To be clear I'm just reporting what's working for me, I'm not arguing for or against what anyone else is doing

A Prometheus is by far the most accurate that I've used, but what bunch of pieces. I use a Harrels pistol measure for very small loads, a Jerry Hensler modified Bruno measure for 25-35 grains of powder, and a MCRW for the rest. The MRCW is a Lyman 55 clone with a Teflon coated body and the rest is a SS Culver conversion.

I use a Harrels small pistol measure. I use a Chargemaster for rifles. Hasbeen

I have been using an RCBS Uniflow powder measure for 23 years..... and I do not trust it with Blue Dot. If some hangs up, it makes a light charge and the next charge is a heavy one.

I have Lyman with a culver conversion and it works great had it since the mid 80’s

I do as well. Very nice measure. I have RCBS and Lee as well, I find the RCBS OK, The Lee not so much.

WOW, sounds like a cluster Fhquk...!!!!!!!!!

I wanted to show you where the graphite goes on my Auto Disk. The break in period was reduced with some crocus cloth and graphite. I did this in the dim times before electricity and running water.

I completely cleaned the Auto Disk when I got it home. After cleaning, I polished the disks and the metal surface that the disk rides on. I do not remember what grit the crocus cloth was, but it was very fine. I applied the graphite and dumped in some powder to work it through the measure.



You can see where the graphite was applied to the base of the measure. Smoothing this surface, and the disks, then applying the graphite helped immeasurably getting the powder to dispense uniformly from the get go.

.

This isn't the greatest picture, but the graphite was applied to both sides of all the disks. Working powder through the measure helped get graphite onto the areas inside the measure. The arrow shows the side of the disk where I did not get any graphite. I only use this measure for handguns and it is over 30 years old. Touch wood, it still works fine.

30 minutes of work after getting it, and occasional touch ups throughout the years.

I apply graphite as a lubricant on the sliding surfaces of my Belding&Mull, by merely rubbing them with a #2 pencil. Doing that once in a blue moon keeps it running smoothly.

It's nice when you can do that with a pencil. I hope to be able to do that, in part at least, when I receive my Auto Drum.

Still have my Uniflow and two different Harrell's; one the Premium and the other Pistol. Haven't used any of them in the last 1-1/2 yrs since buying my Fx120i w/ Version 3 autotrickler. I can't imagine going back to the others but will hang on to them in case the lights go out.

I have a Lyman 55 that my father owned and used , and a Harrel as well that I have owned for about 20 or so years.
For my BPCR rifles and cartridge shotguns I have an MVA , all of them are very accurate when used with a consistent lever throw style .
Cat

I use an old Redding that I bought used in the 90's. Not sure what model it is, but it's old enough that it has the brown crinkle finish instead of the current green.

I use Lee dippers and a RCBS 505 scale and an old brown Redding trickler when working up a load. Once I've decided on a charge I use an old Lyman 55 for handgun and small rifle rounds and a Franklin Arsenal measure for everything else.

I started with a borrowed Lyman 55. It was good with all of the WW spherical powders and Hodgdon spherical rifle powders but Hodgdon's spherical pistol powders seemed to shed too much dust making it sticky and inconsistent. Also did well with 2400. Wasn't worth a [bleep] for cylindrical or flake powders.

When I returned it, I bought a Hornady basic powder measure which I still use. It has pretty much the same likes and dislikes as the Lyman.

All of my flake and cylindrical powder loads get weighed.

For scales ... aside from my dad's old scale that I started on, my first was an RCBS 5-0-5 and it was good. 5-10 years ago it got to be inconsistent so I "upgraded" (I thought) to the 10-10. I don't think it is as accurate as my old 5-0-5 was, not as repeatable. For instance, when I'm weighing charges, if the arm/pointer is descending toward the 0 mark I get a different weight .. by about 0.3 to 0.4 grains .. than I get if the same charge in the pan is rising toward that 0 mark. I reckon one of these times I need to remember to order a new 5-0-5.

Tom

There are 5 Lyman 55's in my shop. One is my Dad's No. 55 Ideal. Three are set up for volume loading 38 Special,.357 Mag. and 22-250.

For load work up I dip with Lee measures, trickle and weigh.

I've had many measures over many years including a Harrell. Got rid of everything some time ago except four Reddings, all of which were bought thirty to forty years ago. These include two Match Grades (one for rifle, one for pistol), a Competition BR-30, and a 3 BR.

I ran a Lyman 55 for pistol. Ball powder, worked fine
Got two of em now, one short tube one long tube. Both used, one has box. Kinda cool.

Actually, have a big ammo can w various powder measures and another of scales. Guy used to collect reloading stuff.

Got some Texan presses too.

When working up loads I use Lee powder dippers, RCBS 5-0-5 scale and Redding trickler.
Handgun loads and ball powders - RCBS Uniflow.
Loading up a bunch of rifle cartridges - Lyman DPMS II (with the III upgrade).

I've used Hornady, RCBS, Lee and Lyman. The Lyman 55 has always been my favorite.

Harrells is a treat to use, I have had them ALL!

I have four, three Lyman 55's, one stays set for my standard 357 load, and one stays set for my standard 45ACP load, and the third is for all my other pistols. For standard loads in all my rifles, I use a Belding & Mull. Working up loads is done with dippers, trickler and scale.

My first powder measure was a RCBS Uniflow. I learned it was easy to toss just under the correct weight and then trickle in what was missing. It did all right for the first 15 years or so. Two things happened.

1) I started trying to load H4831. For whatever reason, H4831 just would not meter out properly. It kept bridging and I'd get up to a 7 grain difference from one load to the next. My fix for the problem was to make a custom dipper out of a rifle case and then trickle in whatever made it right.

2) I started loading more pistol ammo. I was not getting consistent meterings, so I got the pistol drum. That did okay, and I still use that setup for small batches.

I was getting into volume loading and bought a Hornady LNL AP a few years ago. That came with a Hornady LNL powder measure, and I've been quite happy with the press and the measure.

Last Christmas, I got a Hornady LNL Auto-Charge. My latest thoughts on this device are here:
Update on the Auto-Charge

It does just fine. It took a little noodling about, but I got it to do as good a job as the RCBS. It's about a wash on speed.

I love my Harrell's also, used it for a couple hours this morning. I am glad I didn't throw away my Uniflo though.

For whatever reason my Harrell's will NOT work with HS-6 and the Uniflo comes in handy for that one powder

Which is part of the reason I have too many powder measures!

uniflow, redding br30, two dillon mounted on progressive presses. also a mec bushing type on my shotshell press.

Harrells pistol Powder measures work very well with AA#5, 7, 231, Tight group, etc. I don't know why Boat Anchor's will not work with HS 6?!!!

All Flake powders are just a bitch to deal with, Blue dot, unique, red dot, green dot, and 700X. Flake powders have a tendency to "Bridge" in the powder measure creating an light charge and a heavy charge...I weigh every one of my 45 ACP loads with 200g Hard cast with 6.0g of UNIQUE.

Lyman 55 seems to work OK with Flake powders for my heavy buckshot loads, but in pistols the charges are so small, you just can not afford much of an error.

i've got a saeco with a seely masker[sp] conversion. works pretty slick.

Ed

I've used a redding BR for at least 35 years.

I have a three Reddings, in various sizes, one reason I have too damn many measures! But evidently they're making a new model, so.....

I started out nearly 50 yeras ago with a used RCBS Uniflo, switched to Redding BR-30 & 10X and have had a Harrel's. Other than price my experience and the way I reload has shown little advantage one over the other. Currently I'm using a Redding for rifle loads and an RCBS Little Dandy & Forster Bonanza for handguns. I've also designed and built my own measure for pistol loading, currently it has a dedicated bushing for the "Skeeter Skelton" load of 7.5gr. of Unique.

If you could trade all your Redding BR 30's for Harrells, you are in a very good place. I still have one Redding BR 30, and a redding BR 30 with a pistol insert, set for various calibers.

Every time you use a Harrells, you say to your self, this is the way that powder measures should be made....dang...what a piece of engineering! The Harrells are a very fine family, dedicated to doing the absolute best for shooters.

Ever Consider a powder measure a tool worth passing along to your children and grand children? You should at this time. When they are gone, one of the GREAT advances in Reloading is gone forever.....barr none!

Always good to hear there is one PERFECT powder measure/bullet/cartridge/rifle etc.

I have already expressed how much I like my Harrell's but there might be a measure even nicer, a Neil Jones powder measure. I don't own one but got to use one for a weekend................never could justify the $500 price tag to buy one

The new Harrells, has 6 clicks in between a number, not 4 like the older models.

Write down the number for the charge, go back to that number, time and time again. The Harrells mechanisms are like fine Swiss Jeweled Watch! The powder column on the Harrells is horizontal like the Lyman 55, not vertical like the Redding.

That being said, on stick powders I either throw low and trickle up, use lee dippers and trickle up, or work up a load for a particular rifle/bullet establishing the "spread" on the accuracy node, then throw in the middle of the charge.

Old friends from my youth are still on the shelf being used, the lyman 55 for flake powders in my heavy shot shells, a BR-30 for my ball powder rifle loads.

YEP I WANNA GET THAT PERFECT POWDER MEASURE/BULLET/CARTRIDGE/RIFLE ETC. TOO ? THEN I CAN THROW ALL THE JUNK I HAVE PURCHASE OVER 50 SOME YEARS AWAY OR WIFE CAN SELL EACH ITEM FOR A BUCK A -PIECE AT A GARAGE SALE !