Brass or Nylon bore brushes. What do you use. Thank You

Nylon, on the rare occasion that one is needed.

Same here.

Are you worried about a bronze brush damaging your barrel?

If you are NOT using bronze bristle brushes, carbon is building up in your barrel.


Clean patches do NOT equal a clean barrel!

Carbon will get so hard that it will not even show grey on a patch, must less black.

Teslong bore scope is the best money you can spend on your reloading/shooting career. Teslong will teach you to become an expert with your own cleaning technique/chemical choices.

Nylon for me

+1 . Nylon brush is easily replicated by using a quality patch along with quality cleaner

I would hope Mule Deer will chime in on this subject, especially in relation to a rifle that has been properly cleaned down to bare steel and then Dyna Bore coated.

I believe he has stated in the past that while the company used to say no phosphor bronze bore brushes they then said it was ok, their dyna bore coating could withstand it???
Of course they have no customer service/support anymore so you can't find out from them.

And as stated above bore scope is the way to go in accurately judging how clean your barrel is.

I don't know about stainless, but concerned about this very issue some years back, I took a scrap chrome-moly barrel, put it in a drill vise, chucked a cheap bronze brush (might have been an 'Outer's or Hoppes) and ran it dry for about 20 minutes 250 rpm on the barrels exterior where I could see and measure results. No measureable steel was displaced according to a mic reading to 10,000ths. The brush of course, was toast. This was not a surprise considering the Moh's Scale commonly lists brass and bronze at 3...and steel (unspecified ASTM grade) as 4 to 4.5. So then I got another brush, made a paste of carbon powder and Shooters Choice and spun it for a similar time...again, no measureable metal displaced but gave the surface a high gloss shine. What did I prove? Probably nothing, but I quit worrying about brushes.

I use Bore Tech carbon remover followed by their copper remover or their Eliminator. I also have a bore scope.

Being patient and letting the chemicals do their job is the key. Patches work fine, either home made or purchased, if you let the cleaners do their thing. No need for brushing 99% of the time

I always use a bore guide too.

Nylon brushes are a waste of time, they don’t remove anything from a barrel.

A Teslong bore scope has proven to my satisfaction that there is little to no need for brushes when using WipeOut.

LMAO. No customer service or support for over 2 years now. Snake oil.

Personal experience, Tubbs final finish won’t even touch that sheit. Maybe diamond embedded bullets would. It be permanent. Brush away to hell and back.

LMAO even harder than you Swifty. The ONLY guy on the Campfire who wasn't capable of installing Dyna Bore Coat properly in his barrel(s). No one else has had anything less than stellar results with it.
No one pays any attention to your comments concerning Dyna Bore Coat so why don't you just stop posting about it, everyone knows you are a hater.

As to stainless brushes, it is a well kept secret that some of the best gunsmiths initiate the rebore process for barrels by making a few passes with increasingly larger brushes until the desired diameter is reached.

As if I give a fook what azzwipes like you think. He asked how hard it was and I told him. So slither back under your rock. Also try to add something worthwhile except excess flatulence out of your mouth.

Evey time you opn your mouth on this subject, you prove what an ignorant and nasty POS you are.

This thread had nothing to do with dyna bore coat, it's about brushes, I simply asked Mule Deer about something I thought he has said, but of course YOU can't resist ANY opportunity to bash it.

You must be proud, you are the only person and the campfire who can't install it in your rifle properly.

Take a thread and fugg it up because you are a hater.

You must be a stinking liberal democrat.

And I'm not the one that needs to crawl back under his rock AZZHOLE !!!!!!

I think you’re onto something here…😜

Bronze brushes on guns without Borecoat, nylon brushes for those that have it. That’s worked so far for me.

Generations of shooters used bronze brushes, never heard of one damaging a bore.

Won’t use any brush on a rimfire barrel.

Haven’t used a brush on my cf barrels in years.

I do own them. Just haven’t seen a need to deploy them.

Ymmv

🦫

agree 100%, I don't use a bronze brush very often but depending on chambering it absolutely needs done from time to time

I have a bore guide for every rifle that I own, money well spent

Yeah, but what if you used a bronze brush as well as a FRAM filter?

Been doing it for 50+ years with Hoppe's, always clean them after shooting,never had an issue.

I waited until this thread went down several apparently inevitable rat-holes to comment:

Haven't used bore brushes of any kind very often for years now. The biggest use I get out of them is wrapping one with a cotton patch to measure rifling twist.

Between excellent oil-based bore solvents such as Wipe-Out and Montana X-Treme, have never seen much need to brush bores. This includes not just to remove copper fouling but powder fouling--what little there is from today's cleaner-burning powders.

Also, my experience is that Dan Lilja's opinion that attempting to remove ALL powder-fouling is detrimental to accuracy. Dan came to this conclusion after lots of testing. And in my nearly 20 years with a Gradient Hawkeye bore-scope, he's exactly right.

John,
A bit off subject, but when using JB Compound I still wrap the patch around a bronze brush, because it appeared a synthetic brush didn't scrub the copper out as well, or at least didn't as quickly. What kind of brush do you use with JB Compound?

Either bronze or synthetic, depending on what I have on hand. (Still have some bronze brushes). The biggie I've found is using enough of whatever patches I have on hand to require some effort to push 'em through the bore.

As I mentioned earlier on this thread, the Teslong bore-scope has shown me how well modern solvents work. I’ve got lots of clean bores without brushes. The last time I used a brush was with a patch of JB Compound to clean up a Swedish Mauser.

Yep, a bore-scope is invaluable for determining how well various bore-cleaning techniques work--along with some test-shooting.

Which is how I discovered how much BS there was in older advice on cleaning--though a lot of it was due to older powders and/or barrels. With some newer, cleaner-burning powders that include decoppering agents I have yet to clean the bore in many newer rifles with great factory barrels, yet they're still shooting very small groups after hundreds of rounds.

Hoppes #9 to remove powder fouling and expose any copper fouling if present. Butches bore shine with a bronze brush for a quick clean, but if things are bad i grab sweets 7.62 and let it soak. With sweets i only use patches. A bronze brush does speed things along for a quicker clean.

Good to know there are still Campfire members who haven't tried different cleaning techniques in years....

If it worked for my dad and his dad I don't see any reason to change. Agree many barrels have been worn out from too frequent cleaning. I use G.I. twill patches and Hoppe's #9 and butch's Bore Shine to clean my handguns and rifles.

A bronze brush won't hurt DBC, but it's not necessary in DBC'd barrels, either.

These days, about the only use I have for brushes of any sort is to prep a fouled barrel for DBC.

Out of habit, a nylon brush with Hoppes for powder fouling only, or patches and Eliminator for copper fouling. Don't have a borescope - so if the bore is not completely clean, it doesn't seem to make a difference.

My milsurps typically only ever need Hoppes, and the patches never come out completely clean - doesn't seem to bother them.

I use nylon for the necks of brass when reloading but bronze for the bore.

Even when doing the copper removing thing.

Has not done any harm that i can tell so far and it has been since 1970's.

Thanks John. I still keep some bronze brushes around just for JB Compound.

gunswizard,

Good for you.

My point is that if some newer products and techniques work at least as well (and often better) with less work, why keep doing it the same old way? I can understand, somewhat, that doing it the same way your father and grandfather did it provides you some historical comfort. But please don't claim your traditional techniques work as well as newer products.

Well, one exception would be Hoppe's #9. The formula was changed around a decade ago, to an oil-based, faster copper remover that's far more effective than the original formula so many of us grew up with. But it still smells pretty much the same, one reason I still sometimes use it. But newer powders have far more effect on bore-fouling.

You and Gaschekt probably wouldn't know about that either.

Nope. Still burning military surplus IMR 4895 and a keg of IMR 4320. I have newer powders mind you but I usually burn my old stock first. Sometimes I clean with solvant and patches and sometimes the bronze brush comes out. I have a 280 that's horrible for copper fouling. The 35's only need a little maintenance and light oil to protect the bore. 30's are easy to clean as well.

Old habits sure die hard.

I'm a typical scrounge. When I get done with my current supply of cleaners I might be willing to take a look at the new stuff. If something is truly worth having I'm definitely all ears and can be persuaded to give something new a shot. Two of my newer to me cleaners are Sweets 7.62 copper solvant and Butches Bore Shine. I'd say both were worth the purchase. Yes I've read the instructions and understand that i don't need a bronze brush, but if I want to get something cleaner quicker I'll use one.

Sounds like your .280 needs a DBC treatment.

Care to unpack the DBC treatment for those of us less enlightened?

Dyna-tek bore coat. Just read a article from Barsness from Shooting Times regarding his experience with this in saving a 338WM barrel. Great read. I may need to get some. My 280 rem mountain rifle is fun to shoot but tough to clean so it doesn't get used much.

It has been around since about 2007. It was originally developed for military use for automatic weapons by a company in Kansas that did a bunch of research involving silica-based compounds that reduced friction. The product, now known as Dyna Bore Coat, combines a quickly-drying liquid glue with the silica. When spread inside a clean, dry bore, then fired with a few "curing" rounds (which melt the silica) it results in a very thin, slick surface coating that reduces fouling of any kind by at least 50% (usually more), so also results in much easier cleaning of the little fouling that results.

One of my first experiments was with a .338 Winchester Magnum, where the Sako barrel had increasingly fouled worse over the first several hundred rounds, despite fine initial accuracy. Eventually the bore became essentially copper-plated within 20 rounds, and I was considering replacing the barrel until trying DBC--which reduced fouling so much that the barrel would shoot accurately for 80+ rounds without cleaning--and then would clean up with one application of an oil-based solvent, such as Wipe-Out or Montana X-Treme.

Have used it a bunch of times since then, most often in varmint rifles that get shot a lot at prairie dogs. Generally it results in no need to clean for 200+ rounds, and even then the cleaning is very easy--as in one application of a solvent like those mentioned above. Sometimes it results in bores that almost never need cleaning, especially with newer powders, to maintain the same level of accuracy.

Just curious here- are we discussing bore cleaning
because someone tripped and plugged the barrel
of their gun, or because accuracy has gone to pot
or something, or exactly what ?
Just me, but, I never put a rod down my bore unless
it's full of rain, or the projectiles start flying off in
unintended directions. I can't see scrubbing it
strictly for the sake of scrubbing when it shoots great

Ranger99,

Sounds like a great plan, if all you shoot are paper targets, for no real purpose...

Otherwise how do you know when accuracy is gone or is about to go?

If I knew I was infallible & any new miss was the rifle’s fault, then I could go clean it.

Assuming whatever I missed was so unimportant that going off for a cleaning at that point interrupted nothing...

Gaschekt; That Barsness guy and Mule Deer agree so much it's uncanny... Always solid advice from either of them though... lol... By the way, You might also try the 50 round barrel break in trick on that 280, I use the savage arms method and it worked very well for me on a hopelessly copper fouling win 70 fthrwt (also a 280)... I followed the instructions to the letter (it's a bitch of a job), but i abandoned the brush and old school solvents and used KG12 to get that copper out, and using a clean burning powder in the break in ammo will make the job easier... No more copper fouling and accurate too...

I use nylon brushes if I am using Montana or 7.62 but brass for everything else.

Thanks for the help guys and to Mule Deer for sharing your experience and solutions. First shot accuracy is of Supreme importance as a hunter and consistent results will happen with a barrel that stays in consistent condition. Therefore I'd have to disagree with Ranger99 on how to treat a barrel. I like running a barrel like running a cast iron skillet. Cleaned oiled and maintained they're super easy to keep in good condition and when I'm done with it I still have a desirable product. Sounds like I have a 280 that's up for a DBC treatment session.

Thanks for the response Mule Deer. I was just curious more than anything as to wether you could use a phosphor bronze brush without damaging the coating. I myself have not seen a need for any brush, was just curious.
Unfortunately, even mention Dyna Bore Coat in a thread(even if it's not applicable to what the thread was originally asking), the thread seems to go right down the toilet depending on the responders.

I notice that also tends to happen when you don’t mention Dyna Bore Coat...

Then there is this:


I've pretty much gone BACK to this process and only occasionally use copper solvents like Wipeout...

MD, please tell me where in my post I claimed that traditional techniques work as well as newer products. Folks on this forum seem to love to read things into my posts that were never said.

gunswizard,

No, you didn't exactly state that--but you heavily implied it: "If it worked for my dad and his dad I don't see any reason to change."

He didn't ruin it with a bore brush but whoever threaded that muzzle needs to learn what tooling works and what doesn't. Those threads look like chit.

I have a quart of 51-C-1313-400 mil surp rifle bore cleaner in a steel OD green can. I wonder if it's as good as wipeout, or Hoppes

Not a Gun Writer - but as has been discussed at length on the forums - chemicals remove carbon.

Some chemicals work better than others. Good carbon remover needs little to no brush strokes to remove it.

On the occasion that I do use brushes - they are nylon.

YMMV

Respectfully,
GB

Good chemicals do.

My guess is that as more shooters buy bore-scopes, like the very affordable Teslong, the Campfire will see far fewer posts on what "works" for cleaning rifle bores.

But maybe not.

Life is way to short to not use bronze brushes when suffering a barrel cleaning.

When it's time let's get the party started and ended post haste.

Rubbing around with a nylon brush is just silly.

Well I had the brass brush for a number of years and I recently went to Cabelas and they have the nylon bore brush. I know the bronze brush cleans but when I use a patch it still is (bronze) it is still showing streaks after many tries. This is from the brass itself.

So I bought the Nylon brush and jag (both stainless) and no more blue streak.

While lookaround at custom barrels a couple of them (douglas is one) state "Do not use stainless steel brushes or abrasive cleaners in barrel). I am not using stainless steel brushes but does is stainless body ok? I presume its ok. And this is for a coupe of SPS rifles that the bores may be iffy...

I recently clean my barrel and did a couple of boretech swaps or three and then did the nylon brush with stainless steel and there are no streaks on the patch...much better than before.

So glad I have a mind reader to interpret my posts.

Aren't you glad at least 1 person actually reads them.

I'm using bronze brushes less these days, although they are still useful for some tasks. I use them most on pistol barrels to remove powder fouling, which they do quickly.

Wipe Out has mostly eliminated the need for them when cleaning my rifles.

Metal bore brushes are for cheap mass produced barrels.

Bronze for rifles and revolvers.

Nylon for most auto handguns.

Nylon for the RARE RARE time I want to remove copper with KG12.

For ~5 years now I've had a medical condition that makes shooting really small groups an iffy thing on some days. With that in mind, I was still beginning to believe that the barrel on my H&R/Sako .222 was beginning to go south.

Just a couple of months back I read a thread here on bore cleaning and decided to give the Bore-tech Cleaners a try. Cutting to the chase, I have decided that there is barrel life left in the .222.
Sub inch groups are routine again, and I put 5 into 5/8" last week on a good day

Actually talked to a Bore-tech rep on the phone and he recommended wetting thoroughly with a patch and then10 or 15 passes with a nylon brush wetted in the bore guide slot.

I got a lot of stuff out of what I thought was a fairly clean bore, and the rifle is obviously shooting better. I'm not sure that wetting the bore brush did much for me. It appeared to go right through the brush and pool into the bore guide.
Overall, the process worked.

I remain a bit foggy on using copper solvents with brass jags, as I start getting blue on the patch as soon as I apply the solvent. Like a lot of things, perfection may only be in the end result.

I made it a minute and 14 seconds into the video. I reckon I'd cheerfully pay the price of a new barrel before watching another minute...

Was it the fact that it doesn't matter much what solvent to use or was it that the guy knows what he is talking about?

Or both??

He lost me at malleable ductile machine steel for the "war effort" being hammered. shaped, smoothed, or forged.

Ignorance in this thread is unbelievable.

I have my own rifle range, load and shoot out of heated and AC house on the spot. Rain or shine, we shoot.

Couple of things, carbon builds up on it's self. If you let carbon stay in the barrel, it gets so hard you will not get it out unless you use 600-800grit silicone carbide paste from brownell's.

As people talk about this or that working, MUCH is left out:

A. caliber used

B. number of rounds fired

C. verified with clean patches or a bore scope.

I can tell you that I have most chemicals on the market today. I shoot everything from 223 customs to 7 STW customs. There is a great difference in cleaning a 223 that has fired 40 rounds and cleaning a 7 Mag that has fired 40 rounds....jeez, where is the common sense.

Issio and Montana Extreme have the best plastic brushes, but I use bronze bristle brushes. The first 50 strokes on the bronze bristle brush does the heavy work, then wrap a patch around the brush for use with JB, Montana Extreme Copper Cream, or Flitz bore cleaner.

The comment that some carbon left in the barrel is a good thing, this is absolutely not true. I build my own benchrest and long range hunting rifles and you can see groups open up as the carbon starts to build up, within 40-60 shots. The only constant you have is getting the carbon out, as if you do not get the carbon out, it builds up on it's self....at some point it is new barrel time due to carbon.

Accuracy is a relative thing, and not many actually know when their flyers are due to carbon as they blame it on wind, or shooting technique.

Guys, if you do not have a borescope, you are as ignorant as Jed Clampet on how clean your barrel actually is. Teslong has one heck of a bore scope now that plugs into your lap top for $80, or they have a nice one with a screen for $139.

I have every cleaning product that Wipe Out makes, Kg, Montana Extreme, Shooter's Choice, and some others. Bronze bristle brush within the first 50 strokes on the brush does the work. Those that use bronze bristle brushes or plastic brushes, use your caliper and measure the dia on the brush every 10 strokes...get ready for a shock.

I recently had a retired friend send me three barrels he had "shot out". I got them, cleaned them, examined the throat and bore. All they needed was cleaning and the bullet seated out a tad further toward the lands. He was cleaning with patches on a tight fitting punch type of jag.

Also, moisture can accumulate under the carbon and cause some serious rust pits.

Bottom line, people are not set up to clean their guns to make it easy, and they do not like cleaning guns to begin with. So, half azz is good enough, call it done.

For deer hunters that shoot few rounds per year, half azz will get you buy. Amazing how many just pull a "Snake" through their bores and call it good.

I have found a penetrating oil called, "Free All" that has a chemical in it that will dissolve carbon over time. The company sells a 14 oz pumper can that will last a very long time, and is also the best I have ever seen in breaking loose rusted on bolts. Free All is a very advanced penetrating oil and far superior to some more popular penetrating oils.

I will not make any comments about some of the Wonder cleaners mentioned that were about as effective as Kerosene.

If you are prudent and want a good bore cleaner with good brushes, google, "Ed's Red" bore cleaner, you make it up yourself.

Summary, if you do not have a bore scope, you have absolutely no idea what your cleaning method and chemicals are doing....totally ignorant of what is going on. If you don't believe me, you will the first time you run your Bore scope down your bore! PRIDE is one heck of a butt kicker.

Keith,

The guy who made the comment about powder fouling is Dan Lilja, who knows more than a little bit about such things. Here's part of his comments on barrel cleaning from his website:

"It is important to break-in a barrel. The jacket material must be removed after every shot during the initial few rounds. If this isn’t done the areas of the barrel that fouled will tend to pick up more fouling and it will build on itself. It is important to get a layer of powder fouling on top of the lands & grooves. This hard deposit will prevent the copper from stripping off the bullets. However, if the internal finish of the barrel is too rough the barrel will never be completely broken-in and fouling will always be a problem. Some barrels can’t be broken-in.

"A similar phenomonon can exist if the shooter uses an abrasive-type cleaner too often. The abrasives are very effective at removing all traces of both powder and jacket fouling. I mentioned that a barrel can be too smooth. The abrasives can get a barrel too clean as well and in effect the shooter is rebreaking-in the barrel again every time he cleans. This can end up in the dog-chasing-his-tail scenario. The shooter thinks the barrel is a fouler, as evidenced by the copper accumulations in the barrel. He works hard at removing the copper, resorting to using an abrasive cleaner. But when he does he removes the desirable layer of carbon fouling left by the powder and exposes fresh steel ready to grab some more copper off the bullet on the next shot. The cycle repeats itself. Like the dog the best way out is to go lay down and take a nap."

I'm not completely ignorant without a borescope. I've always shined a very bright flashlight around the muzzle crown area and looked down as far as I can see which is probably a 1/2" or so. I generally judge the cleanliness of the remaining barrel by what I see around the crown. I do agree that a good bore scope may be the ticket for a better inspection, but I can see alot around the crown. And yes, I've found a bronze brush does do a better job of loosening the tough carbon fouling than mere solvant and patches.

Gaschekt,

You're wrong about being able to tell much about fouling by examining the half-inch behind the muzzle. It can show up anywhere in a bore, often when there's little or none at the muzzle.

Also might mention that since that Dan Lilja article I just quoted appeared in Precision Shooting in 2000, more than one very effective carbon solvent has appeared on the market. I know because I use them, and they do not require a bronze brush to remove as much carbon as desired--which I firmly believe, both to what Lilja says and my experience, that a little carbon left in the bore does indeed enhance accuracy, and help reduce/delay copper fouling.

Dan, also made that comment a few years back. Things have advanced greatly since then. I am familiar with everything in your quote. I don't want to pick apart the many wrong things in that quote, they are just dated.

If you were to post that quote on Accurateshooter.com, the board would light up with many tearing apart the many things wrong in that quote that does not apply at this time. Gun Bore cleaning technology has grown exponentially since that quote first came out.

Competitive shooters are shooting much better, and clean barrels are one of the main reasons.

John, it is hard to tell a guy that does not like to clean, and will not clean a barrel properly that he is shortening up the life of his barrel.

While we talk about the gun cleaning,posters do not put in perspective whether the he is a casual shooter, casual shooter only verifying zero and hunting, or competitive shooter. So, you have no idea the amount of shooting that the poster is doing or the intensity of the calibers that are being shot.

While one guy thinks that 3/4" is great for his application, the next guy is having a new barrel installed at 3/4" groups.

No doubt that as Teslong bore scopes get to be more plentiful among shooters, shooters will become their own experts with their cleaning techniques for their personal application.

As far as carbon in the barrel, the burning chamber usually extends as far as 17" or so into the barrel or more on big magnums. Depending on the powder used, there is often a thicker area of carbon build from the throat as far as

7" or more inches into the barrel. This carbon will build up to a point to where it is land height, with some difficulty removing that carbon Plug. At a certain point, that carbon will get to be harder than the barrel steel, diamonds are made of carbon subjected to the extremes of heat and pressure.

I am a shooter looking for the extremes in accuracy, 1/4" groups and smaller. So, my application is applicable to my shooting discipline. My Magnum deer rifles are 7 Mags, and they shoot ragged holes with Krieger, Brux, Hart, and Bartline barrels. As the carbon starts to build up, I start to loose accuracy. The constant in the equation is getting the bore clean to bare metal, and I rarely use abrasives because I do not let the carbon build up to that point. If I let the carbon build up, then it would be forever increasing over time, little by little.

My 308 with their Krieger barrels shoot sub 1/4" groups at 100 yards, sub 3/8" at 200, and an inch or a tad less at 300 when the wind is not howling. R#15, Varget, xbr 8208, and H4895 leave some carbon in the barrel, better use new bronze bristle brushes when you start cleaning them after 60 rounds. When the barrel is clean, two fouling shots and back to dumping the bullets in a bullet hole at 100 yards with a 10-50 Sightron III, good muzzle break. I have never seen any chemical on a patch remove the carbon on a 308, it is always good bronze bristle brushes. I don't worry much with Copper fouling because it is long gone by the time I get to the bottom layer of carbon fouling.

I could go on and on. Guys, buy a Teslong bore scope, find out what you do not know.

I guess these little groups I'm shooting are lying to me, and like Keith I've been shooting and cleaning for a long time. I change up what I do based on what I see around the muzzle. I wouldn't call my process wrong. It's just using what I have. It's kinda hard to explain except I know what I'm looking for regarding a clean barrel and a clean muzzle area. I look for clean crisp well defined rifling edges. My whelen is a good example of a good barrel. I clean it until it's got this seasoned look and I know I'm done. The rifling is well defined, the bore shines, and like I said it can shoot some pretty good groups. That 280 of mine is another story. I have a time with it's tendency to lay down quite a layer of copper wash.

Keith,

I have several very accurate rifles as well, but have found many exceptions to what you have observed about powder fouling.

One would be the Remington 700 Varmint .223 I purchased new 21 years ago, shortly before Ramshot TAC appeared. When the barrel was new it would group in the low .2s with the right handloads, for 5 shots at 100. The first time I used TAC in the rifle, it was fired over 500 rounds without losing any accuracy--and the bore-scope showed only the faintest hint of either powder or copper fouling. I cleaned it anyway, just to see what happened, and the accuracy went south for about 15 rounds until the bore "fouled" again.

It kept shooting the same way for over 2000 rounds, including the almost total absence of any fouling, before the throat started to erode, whereupon I smoothed the throat with a few fire-lapping rounds, then treated it with Dyna Bore Coat--which had appeared in the meantime. It went back to not fouling enough to affect accuracy for hundreds of rounds again.

Have seen the same thing with many other DBC'd barrels--and even when they did start powder-fouling, it was easily removed with KG 1Carbon Remover. Same deal with the Hart barrel on my 6mm PPC bench rifle, though it has never been DBC'd, and it shoots in the mid-one with more than one load, all featuring very clean-burning powder. Clean it around every 50 rounds.

DBC must be a Game changer, and very soon I will be all over it.

The mind is like a Parachute, has to be open to work properly, I hope I never quit learning.

Thank you for your help with the DBC, I have been reading about your using it for a while now, just need to jump on the band wagon.

Keith

It is a game changer, indeed. You'll wonder what to do with all the spare time that you used to spend cleaning barrels for hours on end.

Keith[/quote]
It is a game changer, indeed. You'll wonder what to do with all the spare time that you used to spend cleaning barrels for hours on end.[/quote]

Yep! Which has been one of my major points ever since first trying it, which from my shooting notes was in 2007--back when it was still gray instead of clear. Did you ever use any of the gray stuff, Jordan?

Just like the Sun rising in the morning you know JS will be all about DBC.........

Sort of the way you'll surely rail against three groove barrels, and me against putting ice in sipping whiskey.

That's exactly right.......

Brushes-
nylon brush w/ 320 grit silicon carbide lapping compound applied to a 2" round patch for smooth bore shotgun barrels assisted w/ a cordless drill motor...followed by a wet patch of solvent...followed by a patch of oils....5 minutes DONE.

bronze brush in handgun barrels....coppered...out comes the silicon carbide lapping compound on a patch & jag.

Keith-
Most will never comprehend.

Each barrel shoots different, each barrel cleans different....of same lot...cut w/ same chamber reamer.

90% of the available products...are SNAKE OILS.

Test you foaming shaving cream that camo's copper & does NOT remove it.

Most would be better off using WD40 & Windex to clean bores.

Those who pull a boot lace thru said bores & are satisfied.....good luck...a carbon donut will surface in short order.

Any imperfections in any bore are heat risers/carbon/copper traps...like a pot hole in the road & will NEVER iron out..NEVER..even if lapped or fire lapped.

Carbon under copper will collect moisture & corrode/pit any barrel.

Test-
Take your favorite SNAKE OIL & pour some in a small glass jar w/ enough to cover a jacketed projectile.
Mic & weigh a projectile.
Drop said projectile in your favorite SNAKE OIL.
Allpy an air tight lid on jar.
Annotate particulars on a piece of masking tape and fix/stick it on the jar.
7 days later...inspect said SNAKE OIL to ascertain IF it has changed color or etched said projectile.
80-90% of SNAKE OILS will go months w/o a witness of etching the jacket let alone turning blue from the ammonia eroding the copper from said jacket.


All verified in the Arctic & w/a Gradient Lens Bore scope from decades of .....TESTING....EVALUATING.....

Please name a few non-snake oils.

I know this is an old read but, it does show how many opinions there are on rifle cleaning and “bronze” brushes. It makes one’s head spin.

https://www.6mmbr.com/borebrushing.html

John,

I don’t recall if my first bottle was clear or gray, but they changed to the clear formula right about the time I started using it a bunch. It used to come in the clear, plastic containers, but it dried out quicker than necessary in the plastic bottles so they went to aluminum. I remember the gray stuff used to stain stocks and stuff, so it came with a warning.

And why wouldn’t I be? I tend to like stuff that simply works and makes my life easier.

[[/quote]
I don’t recall if my first bottle was clear or gray, but they changed to the clear formula right about the time I started using it a bunch. It used to come in the clear, plastic containers, but it dried out quicker than necessary in the plastic bottles so they went to aluminum. I remember the gray stuff used to stain stocks and stuff, so it came with a warning.[/quote]

I started playing with DBC toward the end of the gray era. It was interesting, because while effective it wasn't particularly pleasing to the eye, especially if you got it on a stock. I also knew a few people who installed DBC who got some the gray stuff inside the chamber as well as the bore, and complained about it. But chamber-slop was easily removed with a bore brush of the right size, since it didn't "cure" like DBC in the bore. (I also suggested such people put an empty case in the chamber when installing....)

They went to the clear formula and aluminum bottles maybe two years, at most, after that.