I have recently received a couple of late 1940s vintage long guns. They appear to be in pretty good condition. The metal seems to be entirely without rust or pitting and I don't see any obvious wear marks on moving parts. Both have walnut stocks and they are covered by that scum that is a combination of linseed oil, dust, and time. They would be pretty nice looking firearms if I could just clean the wood without damaging it.

OK so how do I remove the grime without damaging the wood?

KC

I doubt many people would hazard some advise without some pics.

I'd start with a light cleaning of the stock (barreled action removed) with Murphys Oil Soap and warm water.

I'd start with Old English lemon oil furniture polish. Have seen it do wonders on stocks that have acquired gunk over time. It cuts wax and non-drying oil but is finish safe.

Old English lemon oil is not a bad choice, but it is just scented mineral oil. Buy a bottle of mineral oil at a pharmacy for a third the price and you will be way ahead.

Use a small amount on a clean rag and wipe it as dry as you possibly can.

Paste wax will reduce the chance of future build-up...

I like the fresh, lemony fragrance of a freshly cleaned gun stock. Smells like... victory.

If they are really grimy and oil soaked Whiting works wonders.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...pers/old-fashioned-whiting-prod1133.aspx

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll start with something mild like Murphys soap first and go from there. The Whiting seems pretty complicated and possible to mess things up.

KC

Dilute the Murphy's as full strength it can remove finish and be sure to rinse it off well.

Murphy's is a poor choice... Water-based anything is a poor choice.

Stick to low risk options until they are exhausted.

Whiting is not used for general stock clean-up. It has the specific function of removing oil from the wood, almost exclusively in unfinished areas... As the finish SHOULD have kept the oil from getting into the wood.

If mineral oil does not get it I prefer to step up to Formby's Furniture Restorer and use it lightly while working hard at NOT removing old finish.

Not to hijack but what should you use on a new oil finished stock, Sako 85 hunter?

If they are really gunked up then a light application of Gojo hand cleaner can work wonders.

I would start very cautiously with something like Birchwood Caseys stock sheen or a real lemon oil furniture polish. Clives lemon oil is both a cleaner and a finish, not sure if it is available but it is a safe option.

If they are really valuable don't fool around and find a pro to do it.

A non-automotive paste wax. Johnson's is good, Bri-Wax is a little better.

Auto waxes have silicone in them and that will create a PITA if you need to touch-up in the future.

"Lemon oil" is a finish/waxing farce. It is in there for smell and there is not nearly enough to be a decent solvent.

As a blanket statment it shoul;d never be used near decent wood, including furniture. It evaporates slowly and leaves a dulled surface after a brief time, encouraging the reapplication (because it is so easy) and does nothing positive for wood. Be especially careful of any finish care product that claims to "Feed the wood."

R. Gale Lock Co. carnauba wax #36 (Brownell's) is the best I've used but it's damned expensive. It's hard enough to not pick up finger smudges from handling.

Clive's Lemon Oil is Slacum with citrus oils and natural solvents. Lemon is his name, he worked in several different capacities with BSA and several others in the London Gun trade.

Not to be confused with the common lemon scented mineral oils. It is the mineral oil and petroleum solvents in these that do no good.

Howards Feed and Wax is now my go to product for all my wood gun stocks and pistol grips. I have a M75 Hunter Stainless with a stock that should be similar to your 85. Howards's was great on it. Does not add any color or extreme shine, great for rejuvenating older stocks/grips that have dried ,also.

I'm with you. However, I will say that I once restored a CMP Garand walnut stock to like-new condition with hardwood floor cleaner and 0000 steel wool. At the start, the stock was absoutely black. When I was done, it looked like it had just come off the line. Start to finish I think I put in about two hours' work.

Ballistol makes the Sako oil finish look very nice and it won't change or hurt anything. I don't like wax on the oil finish because it changes the feel and can make them sticky or streaky. For instance the rubber holders on my gun caddy will leave a dull mark on an oil stock I've waxed. Don't like it. Scott's Liquid Gold furniture polish is also excellent on oil stocks. Their main ingredient is almond oil. No waxes or silicones in Scott's. Whatever you use follow it up with a clean microfiber to buff and remove all excess.

No more complicated than going to the garage and get the mineral spirits most of us keep around for general solvent use. Brush it on the stocks with a paint brush, let it soak and just keep brushing and wiping it off. It won't hurt the wood, will pull some of the oil out of the pores of the wood, and doesn't even smell bad if you use the odorless variety.

I've cleaned up a few old military stocks with mineral spirits with good results. I wouldn't use it on some sort of "finish", but if all you have is linseed oil and grime I think you'll be happy with the result. Heck, take the guns apart and put the metal parts in mineral spirits or kerosene to soak the old caked grease and oil out of the metal parts too.

Don't use anything with mineral oil in the mix as it will "penetrate scratches" and weaken and discolor that area. If it ever needs to be refinished, the oil penetrated,darkened scratch is nearly impossible to sand out. I used the Howards feed and Wax until I learned better.

Personally,I would use Renaissance Wax.