Does anyone have the old Bansner instructions for finishing a fiberglass stock, or instructions somewhere/anywhere else? I have a Brown pounder that needs the inletting fixed, pillars, bedding etc. This is a project for me. I am comfortable with glass bedding, just never worked with fixing a fiberglass stock before. Directions to information would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.

KLM, if you just Google Bansner instructions for fitting...I'm sure you'll get all you need. powdr

Google is normally my friend, but this time it is not finding any instructions.

KLM, I see you're not getting much help so I'll tell you what I do. The first thing I do is buy 2 cans of Krylon flat grey primer. I then, using accuraglass, patch any voids, holes or build up any places that need it. After sanding these places down to spec I spray on a thick coat of primer. After it dries, I then sand it smooth w/light sand paper. The stock should be all different colors now. After getting the stock silky smooth...I then do my bedding. After the bedding dries pop the action out of the stock and clean up the bedding. I do not do pillars because if you do your bedding correct w/accuraglass ...they are not needed. I'm one of the guys that likes to bed actions tight w/o clearance. Makes it a little harder to get the action out but stays accurate. After the bedding and every thing looks good then decide on what you want for paint. Gray, green, desert tan alone or w/webbing. That's about it, powdr

I'll add to Powdr's comments, in that I use 2 different colors of primer, one after the first go of filling voids and pin-holes, and the second color after all the voids are filled. I also opt to wet sand whenever possible.

Than you gentleman. The fun will start this weekend.

We need pictures of work in progress.

KLM,

Nobody has addressed one point, except powdr and then perhaps not correctly, though probably through no fault of his own.

You mention installing pillars for the action screw holes. The original reason pillars were installed in stocks wasn't so much improved accuracy, as many assume today, but to keep the stock from compressing or even collapsing when the action screws were tightened. This was true of Mauser military stocks, but was especially true of early synthetic "lay-up" stocks, made of epoxied layers of synthetic cloth around a soft core: If pillars weren't installed, tightening the action screws collapsed the stock.

I haven't bedded a Brown Pound'r in years, and can't remember whether it has thick layers of solid material around the action screw areas--as the Bansner High-Tech stock does. If so, you don't need to install pillars, but if the Pound'r is as I described above, with a thin shell of epoxy/cloth around a soft matrix, then you do need pillars.

Another benefit of pillars, especially if you haven't done a lot of bedding, is that they help simplify the bedding process. This is the short version of the way that I was taught (by Echols):

-Using tape around the barrel to center the rifle in the forend, get the barreled action perfectly level in the stock (use a depth mic/caliper to establish the half-depth of the barrel in the forend and tape to level)

-Remove any stock material that it touching the action or barrel other than perhaps where the tang rests

-Apply your release agent to the action

-Use a set of cap head screws that will match your action threads and secure the pillars to the action

-Epoxy the pillars into the stock with them secured to the leveled barreled action

-When the epoxy has cured, secure the stock in a padded mill vise and mill the bottom side of the pillars to the proper depth and angle to interface with the bottom metal

-Now, when you torque the barrel down to the pillars, you will be sure that it is level. When you go to actually bed the rifle, you apply your bedding compound and then use either your cap head screws or the action screws themselves to tighten the action against the pillars. This makes bedding a very simple two-step process.

I hope that I explained it well, I'll see whether I can dig up some photos.

The descriptions all make sense. Yes, I am going to pillar bed to be safe. Without a mill It may make correcting the length challenging. But hey, I like a challenge.

Can I just create pillars with marine Tex, or is that not as good as steel pillars? Just thought I'd ask. Again, I want to do this correctly.

Thank you all for your help.

The pre-made aluminum pillars from Brownells aren't bad and probably won't require trimming. I'd go with those.

UPDATE


The stock had pin holes and many deep sanding marks/gouges. Mixed up some accraglass and coated all areas that needed attention with a layer. Is there a secret to putting just a thin layer on??


Sanded to my hearts content, thus the question on thin layers. Finished with a wet sanding today. Unless I've screwed something up I am very pleased thus far. I plan to apply a couple of coats of primer and wet sand before I move on to bedding.



There are two areas that showed the inner filling, looked like stainless steel wool. I put acraglass into them when I did the stock as it flowed down into the holes well. Suggestion on the best way to finish those holes to match the stock contour correctly?? I will be bedding the rifle in MarineTex and have acraglass gel also.



Need advise on the barrel. It is a turned down military, still in the white with fine surface rust. I would appreciate suggestions on removing the rust and a type of finish that will be durable that I can do myself. A mismatch between the receiver and barrel is fine. No, our oven is not large enough to fit the barreled action. This is a tool not a showcase.


I am planning to bed the action prior to final painting as I need to remove some stock material for the side safety after bedding to make sure I remove the correct amount and in the correct spot. This is a Husqvarna 1640 action.

KLM, it's looking good. Go to the Gun Garage (just Google it) and get some of the Colt 45 mesh for cleaning the outside of the barrel. It will leave it bright and shiney. It's also good for cleaning poor bores as well. The two holes on the right forearm can just be filled w/accuraglss. Leave it a little high and long for the spots so if it sinks into the hole some you won't have to do it twice. That or apply it and turn the stock upside down after about an hour. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. powdr

Powdr makes a good point about turning the stock upside down. I sometimes turn the stock upside down just after I scrape the overflow off with a popsicle stick. The bedding compound is still pliable enough and will 'run' down just enough to leave a raised edge about the stock line that can later be trimmed or sanded flush. Be careful, as some bedding compounds get brittle when cured and will chip out, especially along the top edges of the barrel channel where the compound is very thin.

Your probably finished but here goes anyway. To thin epoxy you can heat it in hot water and also thin it up to 10% with Xylene. I use an old credit card to squeegee it on. For filler acraglass mixed with micro baloons is easier to sand or add the chopped up fiberglass that comes with the kit. On the barrel I would use 3M pads till you get it the way you want. On stainless sometimes after polishing I will wire brush it with a fine stainless steel wheel to make random scratches on it for a less shiny finish. No experience with the home paints other than the rattle can types. Not very durable but easy to re-do with just Rustolium or Krylon. Check Brownels for dura coat and other harder spray on finishes.