Just bought a new action and it sure feels trashy between 5-6 lbs. but I haven't put a wrench to it yet. powdr

I think that a Bold or Timeny is worth buying sooner than later.

I like to change the bolt shrouds to the Military type, install a side swing safety and do away with the sear-blocker they come with. You can then adjust the MK10 trigger to a very nice pull and not worry the safety is "not holding much". Once you remove the safety from the MK10 trigger the rest of it is as good as a Temney or Bold.

Occasionally you can get one acceptable, depending on your criteria......

Spring for one of the 20% off Triggertechs.

X mark or mark X? Are we talking remingtons or mausers?

Remington

Then heed aalf’s advice!

I've only messed with one, but it was easy to get a nice, light, and creep-free pull without a lot of trouble. Couldn't say they would all be so easy.

Won a 204 Ruger VTR in a drawing several years ago, my first 700 with an X Mark trigger. Adjusted it down to a very crisp pull, and despite shooting out the original barrel and getting quite a way into its replacement, the trigger keeps working exactly the same way, with no trouble.

The X Mark without the screw through the trigger hasn't been to bad. I have one and adjusted one for a friend a couple weeks ago. Mine is at three pounds and crisp with just a very slight amount of overtravel. His came out with even less overtravel. Over travel doesn't really bother me. The X Mark Pro with the screw on my Mtn Rifle adjusted to about the same but I did buy a Timney to replace it just because of all the stories about that trigger breaking through the screw hole. For a hunting rifle I like the X Mark just fine, almost as much as the original Walker triggers. I haven't taken one apart to try smoothing it up though so that could change.

Ive found they are excellent...easy to remove and throw in the trash.

Get a proper trigger.

Is that you or Rommel talking?

They seem fine.

I do not like the screw in the face of the trigger though.

Maybe it does not bother others.


Not a fan of trigger dinguses.

The new ones have no screws sticking out and they adjust just fine. I have had excellent luck with them so far. Still not a walker trigger though.

I did not know that they hid the adjuster screw.


In general...I dont not prefer the new crop of easy adjustable triggers.

The new ones look like the old style ones. Screw in same place

Easy to remove and put Jard guts in. I did that with my 22-250 VLS. Of course I haven't used the safety on that even once that I remember.

I had two of them, after trying to "fix" them, ended up with Timneys.

Timney makes a good trigger but it is no comparison to the Jard. On my 22-250 (2003 rifle) VLS I have a 9oz trigger, on the Remington 700 VSSF I have a 16oz trigger. Two levers over four. Plus the Jard is much cheaper at $62. Assembly required.

One 1 in the safe right now, a 308 SPS SS I bought cheap when SW shut down here almost a decade ago. It's 3# w/minimal travel. I don't shoot that rifle a lot myself, but, anyone who picks it up can shoot it fairly well and the adjusted X-Mark trigger is leaps-and-bounds ahead of what most folks are used to. It's been nearly a decade since I bought it but nothing stands out in my memory regarding trigger adjustment so I suspect I spent the better part of 7-10min getting it adjusted to my liking and put it back together.

No doubt there are at least 1/2dz aftermarket triggers as well as a pre-X-mark that would be "better", but, the X-mark in that 308Win certainly isn't going to be the cause of someone not killing a critter.

If it would be then why the hell would someone be in the field with it?

I put an Ernie's spring in the last one. It actually made it quite useable. That said most wear Timneys and have one Trigger Tech Primary.

What I'm getting at is in a hunting situation, shooting from field positions, the X-mark in that rifle vs. say any aftermarket trigger shouldn't be narrowed down as a significant factor towards hitting or not hitting the intended target.

Probably not what I'd want to shoot for a day of Prairie Dogs or any sort of rifle competition, but, plenty sufficient as a "hunting" trigger. No flies an 3# and relatively crisp.

I do not care for the current X Mark Pro trigger, mostly because I do not like that danged screw where it is. In order to get one down to 3 pounds or thereabouts, they usually require a lot of adjustment, which means the screw is sticking out like a sore thumb. I was replacing mine with either a Timney, or an older style Remington, until I heard of Ernie the Gunsmith's springs. I ordered a couple, and they work, turning the X Mark Pro into a pretty decent trigger.

Some from years ago would not clean up, even with an Ernie spring, but newer ones have been easy to respring. I still don’t like them in general, but they can turn out ok.

Even with an Ernies spring, I still do not care for that screw in the trigger. On the rifles that I use a lot, I will replace an X Mark Pro, not respring it.

I set all of my target rifle triggers (apart from BR and "F" class rifles) to 2 pounds because that is the requirement for metallic silohuette spoter class. It was easy to accomplish a very crisp 2 pounds with the X-Mark Pro trigger. I certainly wouldn't waste money replacing it. GD

I know a lot of people don't like them but ive found them to be easy to adjust and as nice as say a timiney.

Trigger Techs are the best if you can swing it.

I have one I took off and sent to Neil Jones with a note to make it 1.5 lbs and as crisp as he could, it came back just as I had asked. I've tested it for safety as many ways as I can and it's reliable. As it sits it's great, I couldn't have done it myself but someone who knows what they're doing can certainly make them nice. He removed the screw, it's not there any more.

After a bad experience with the last versions of the Walker I would not adjust it myself. I would either send it to someone like Neil Jones or just buy a Trigger Tech. I also like a side mounted bolt stop and a MauserWinchester swing style shroud safety would be nice, but with all this you are close to the cost of a custom action.

Put a Timney in it, never look back!

I have one on a M7 and did not like it at all. Talked to my gunsmith and he said first thing remove the screw and work from there. If you can't get what you want bring me the gun. Took 10 minutes and I had a plenty good enough trigger. Better in fact than some Timneys I have owned. This said why did they replace the no screw version that came before the with screw version? I wanted to replace the trigger with a Triggertech trigger but at the time they did not make one for a Model 7.

The no-screw versions have been fine to me. They adjust easily enough down to 2.5-3.5 pounds. Haven't broke one yet.

I had one with the screw in the trigger, and the first time I went to adjust it the trigger broke in half. I have since put Timney triggers in all of my Rem 700's, and not thought twice about it.

Just installed a Trigger Tech Primary on a new SPS .223 Tactical, world of difference. Caught the TT on sale 20% off and free shipping at Midway. Have Timney and tuned Walker triggers on several other rifles and a Jewel on one rifle, the TT is the best trigger I have ever used. I used to think you could not beat a well tuned Walker but the TT is the way to go. Easy peasy install and adjustment.

jme

That's because the Trigger Tech also uses a sear connector (although they call it something else). GD

I know! That's the part that cracks me up with all the buzz about TT triggers. The TT is essentially a well tuned Walker..........

Sounds like MIM parts.

Timney uses machined aluminum and steel, no MIM that I can tell.

DF

If connecting rods can be made that way it seems like a trigger part could be made durable enough.

I think it would depend on how well the part was made, how massive or flimsy the piece and the stress it was subjected to. Once you experience a MIM failure, you tend to avoid such, sticking with more conventional stuff.

DF

The quality of manufacture angle is what I'm getting at too.

I think some parts may be more amenable to MIM mfg. A part with enough mass and without thin or vulnerable areas would, IMO, probably do better with MIM than others.

It's hard to beat milled metal or investment casting like Ruger and others use. Those parts are really strong and I've never heard of problems with breakage.

DF