Not having any luck finding this with my searches. Anyone have this info?

Thanx

No clue. I'd try to contact the importer. Be prepared to deal in Yurrupean terms, Nm or such.

https://applifast.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Applifast_Conversion_Table-Torque.pdf

Meanwhile, I wouldn't obsess over not knowing. Just use your head. All the fuss about torque specs is a relatively new thing. Somehow we got by for decades with Snug, Pretty Tight, Damn Tight, and Farmer Tight. Main thing is to not break anything, or bugger up any screws. In most cases, the front screw gets tightened first, and the most. Something with twin V-blocks might be a bit different.

Call Blaser-USA in San Antonio. Ask for Tom or Andre, the gunsmiths.

I just sent a pm to the gunsmith at Blaser. I'll post his answer here when I hear back.

43 inch lbs. is the proper torque spec.

.


I am in total agreement with Pappy on his views of torquing, it is just another "thing" that shooters do to feel better. The fact is that a suggested torque is just that - a suggestion to start from. Unless the receivers are perfectly bedded there is no one torque that is going to be right for any manufacturers rifle regardless of the suggestion.

Tighten the front screw reasonably snug, then tighten the rear screw a bit less, test fire for groups, if they don't suit you then generally a little less or more tightness on the rear screw will tighten things up (assuming that the bedding is not total crap). When you get to the "sweet spot" put a dab of nail polish in alignment with the screw slots and after the rifle has been disassembled tighten back to the same mark. It's not rocket science.

We could have a long discussion about the calibration, or lack of, on most torque wrenches and the proper, or more often, improper use of torque wrenches, they are a delicate device and are often misused. Having had experience in a PMEL lab where quality torque wrenches were checked every ninety days it was amazing how many required re-calibration.

drover

Thanks to all for info.

I agree with those who say the exact amount doesn't really matter--partly because I have experience with a couple M18s, one belonging to me.

By the way, there is no front action screw. Instead there's a front action nut, which fits a bolt (or screw, if you will) firmly attached to the front end of the action. The M18 is one of those modern rifles with a different sort of bedding system: The slot in the action behind the bolt fits a steel plate in the stock, resulting in minimal contact area--and hence little chance of the bedding and action mismatching, stressing the action.

Which is one reason M18s shoot so well. In fact, I actually doubt whether tightening the front or the rear of the action first matters as long as both end up tight.

I requested the same info on a sauer 100 from their help desk......5 N

I figured it's the same for the M18