I had some time to kill tonight so I made a light mount for my new stock on my 375 RUM. I find having the ability to mount a weapons light to my big game rifles to be very handy. In the past the addition of the light has saved my bacon during a brown bear charge. I credit the bright light as probably the biggest factor to shutting down that predatory charge.

In the past I had placed the mount on the left side of the forearm by mounting a rear Remington 700 weaver base. This actually works quite well but when shooting the big kickers from the bench it can sometimes catch your left hand and stings like a winch. This is what I have done in the past.



After seeing the light mount that Phil Shoemaker has on his famous 458 WIN I decided to try that style of mount for the new stock.

I started out with a piece of broken rail that came off the top of an AR15. I milled it down to the shape and size that I wanted.



Then I relieved a groove in the end of the stock for the rail mount to set in. This was all chisel work and not being a very good wood worker took me quite a while to get it where I wanted it.



The rail mount fits very well. I have one small screw at the front to hold it in place for now. I left it free to wiggle a little bit so I can �aim� the light before locking it in place with bedding material. I had to take the head of the screw down a touch to make sure it wouldn�t touch the barrel. It is essentially free floated back to the pressure point. I still have to to get it ceracoated to match the parkerized finish of the rifle and then will permanently attach it.





It turned out about perfect. It fits on the rifle well and I think it will be a much cleaner, sleeker, way to wear the light. You couldn�t really sling the rifle with the old style light mount, and this just looks much better. Its still very easy to manipulate the controls of the light and the light was very easy to �aim� to be right where the sights sit at 15-20 feet. Its amazing how much more confidence I have while tracking a wounded animal or walking in and out in the dark with a light on the rifle. I don�t use this as a replacent for a regular head light or hand held flashlight but in its niche it is very handy.



[img]http://i9.photobucket.com/albu...-B040-BBFE77FE93CF_zpsa206sa6p.jpg[/img]

THAT.... is one of the coolest mods I have seen on a rifle, in a very long time. Congratulations on making such a grand improvement and well thought out! Very clean looking.

If I ever get my decaying carcass back to the dark continent or Alaska again, I think I will add your light rail system to my 416 Rigby. Maybe even with a small light/lazer combo like I had on my bedstand SU-16 before I sold it.

This might be the best way to 'light up' my so far no rails anywhere CETME in 7.62x51 aka 308 as well.

Too bad you can't run a pressure switch up the forend so you can turn it on and off easier

Thanks for posting the good photos Josh.
I initially tried a pressure switch on mine but found it more complicated and delicate than needed on a hunting rifle and the rocker switch at the end of the forend is plenty easy and fast to use.
I have learned that it is easier walking at night with the rifle mounted light than even a headlight as you can constantly watch the perimeters of the trail simply by small hand movements rather than constantly having to twist your head about.

Glad I don't have to worry about that stuff. Not too many critters around here out to get you at night

The problem with the pressure switch is that you have to continue to hold it down, if you shift your grip or lighten the pressure the light will go out. The toggle switch works much better in that situation. I had a pressure switch on the light on my 45/70 that was quickly replaced with a push putton on/off switch.

One thing I have learned is that on the old canoe paddle Ruger stocks you can remove the front sling swivel loop and it is easy to bolt a piece of picitinny rail on the side like Josh showed on his first photo. What I like about that is that when the light is on the front sight bead stands out.

That is definitely an advantage with the side mount, a fiber optic front sight really glows in the fringe halo of light hits it.

Very interesting and clever mod.....

For those that want a temporary setup like me, who don't live and work full time in bear country, here's a neat inexpensive solution:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UTG-Bipod-Swivel-Stud-Picatinny-Slot-Adaptor-Kit-TL-BPAD1-/291289526231?

I can attach this gadget on the front sling stud on my Alaska Ti stock and affix a light just as easily.

Are these legal in the US hunting fields?

I use the Blackhawk version. Takes longer to open the package than to install. I don't like the stud sticking up on the UTG.




http://www.blackhawk.com/Products/S.../Swivel-Stud-Picatinny-Rail-Adaptor.aspx

Any pictures of it installed, Steelhead?

Using a light while hunting legality is probably dependant on where you are and what you are hunting for. For my use, I�m not hunting but instead using as a defensive tool so completely legal. You would have to remove the light while actually hunting big game.

My experience with weapon lights is strictly limited to law enforcement use. I preferred the pressure switch or a rocker switch that was spring loaded so you could turn the light off when you didn't want the bad guy to see you. I can see that with bears it is probably not a big deal.

I doubt it is legal here in AZ but have never contemplated it

Had one mounted on the side like top pic, and thought I liked how some of the light splashed to illuminate my front sight. But, the rifle had a qd mount scope, and with the scope installed, the spash back off the front sight goofed up my sight picture through the mounted scope. Been toying with the idea of mounting the light along the lines of the other pics, so it is below barrel, but not along bottom of forend. This thread may inspire me to get er done.

Who makes this rail for Lever gun tubes?

Wild West Guns,
http://www.wildwestguns.com/gun-parts/


they run about $50

Thanks! Hadn't looked at their site for a long time.

Interesting but I don't understand the use ?
With a shotgun, or Marlin 1895 for HD, or if it's dark for camp defense against wild beasts Ok but with the .375 RUM ... hum ... If I feel a danger I'll get a Shotgun (slug) or a lever action (444,45-70, 450) or a handgun (.357, .44) .. not a .375 RUM ..

I don't usually take extra guns on fly out hunting trips just in case a bear comes into camp. I doubt Josh or Phil do either. If you do they won't do you any good back in camp if you need to follow the blood trail into the alder patch at sundown.

The kid hit the nail on the head. There is rarely room for multiple rifles on an alaskan hunt. You either carry them in or they take up space on your wheeler or boat. A small weapon light doesn�t take up more room in a pack but can be very handy in a bind. Dont� discount the power of the 375 RUM, chances are your only going to get one shot anyway but I can run a bolt gun plenty quick if motiveated. What do you think is going to hit harder, a 44 lever gun or a 375 RUM. 270gr @ 3000fps is a lot of whomp.

Remember I�ve actually used a light on the 375 RUM to shut down a brown bear charge. It worked, and was easy to stick the light on as I walked out in the dark.

When its dark and your crawling thru brush and one of these steps out, there really isn�t a gun big enough.

I'm convinced I need to do this with my 9.3X62.

What is the best light and best way to attach to the rail? Best being brightest and most rugged.

That Streamlight TRL-1 HL is a bright SOB.

I need to take a picture of the mount I posted above that attaches to the front swivel stud.

Thanks Scott, I'd appreciate it.

Here is the Blackhawk mount with the TRL-1HS.

It does point up somewhat, no problem in the least making a shot at zero dark thirty for a few hundred yards. Obviously different forends will be different concerning angle.

You can turn it around the other way so you can attach a sling, I wasn't worried about it since I don't use slings.