At what point would I need a 20 MOA base? I know, when I run out of elevation. If my intended self restriction is a maximum of 600 yards, would I need a 20 MOA?

What caliber and what scope? I'd default to not needing a inclined base for 600 yards, though there are exceptions. I probably couldn't get my 16" 358 Win to 600 with an old clam shell Bushnell.

Take the specs from your scope and half them. IE, if you have 50 MOA of elevation, call it 25. assuming your 100 yard zero won't be exactly in the middle of the scope, allow for that generously. So, will 20 MOA get you to 600? I have a 7 rem mag that only needs roughly 12 MOA to get to 600, for example.

Chris gave you a great explanation above.

This may help as well.

Really depends on the scope. An SWFA fixed has a ridiculously large adjustment range so you can get past 1200 typically without a sloped base. Other scopes, especially 1” tubes, not so much.

Also a 20MOA base may raise the eyepiece a touch higher possibly affecting checkweld.

Depends somewhat on the scope in question's total adjustment range. To 600, most likely not, unless you're shooting cannon balls.

Most times guys think that you'll automatically be in the middle of the scope's range when mounting with a zero base. Maybe, maybe not.....

Anything below zero is lost adjustment. No biggie if it's not a dialer, but no point in hamstringing yourself right outta the gate.

Nightforce 2.5-10 NXS Compact

I put the 20 MOA on all my setups that go west. So if I decide I need or desire more distance I don’t need to change the setup.

Looks like the 32MM have 100 MOA, the 42mm has 92 MOA.

My Bat VR action has an integral 0 rail, and I've gone over 1400 with the 6x47 Lapua barrel with the 32mm on top.

Only reason for the 0 is nobody at the time had one with a 20 MOA rail in stock.

I'd still go 20 MOA, and you can "play" in the middle of the scope.

All my LR toys have 40 MOA rails on top.......

I certainly agree with this. There are only two potential downsides to using an inclined rail to maximize the useable erector travel: the rear of an inclined rail is often slightly higher than a flat rail, so scope mounting is slightly higher at the ocular, and secondly, with some scope designs there is noticeable image distortion and resolution degradation when the erector approaches its extremes. This second case is a sign of a poor design, but none-the-less it may be a reason not to use an inclined rail.

You're only looking at like 9 moa of drop at 600... lol

I knew y’all could help

We need shooting system information......

the short answer is no if you are using a rifle (not rimfire).

Once you cross 600 things change, MOST rifle scope combinations (unless you are stretching shooting a lower vel. Cartridge) will reach to 600, and 800, but will bottom out before you get to 1,000 yards.

S0 if you are shooting 800 or 1,000 yds. - YES...

If you are shooting further than 500 -600 a lot and have a 1” scope... it’s not a bad idea to get a 20.

If most of your shots are 400 or under - NOPE.

I have a standard picatinny rail, with a Zeiss 4.5 X 14 with turrets, and I am just a couple of clicks short of running out of elevation at that range. Shooting. 300 WM.

20 MOA is for men that stand to pee.....

WOW, how did you figure that ???????????? the OP never stated what he was shooting

Because I compared drop charts for several different centerfire guns of mine at 600 yards...

223 AI with a 90 = 11.3
6.5 creed with 108s = 9.2
264 with 150s = 7.9
6SLR with 115s = 9

(11.3+9.2+7.9+9)/4 = 9.35


So unless he's trying to stretch a dog or rimfire I'd say 9 is a good estimate...

I’m glad I don’t look to shoot beyond 400-500 yards.
Its so much easier equipment wise. I grab my rifle and ammo
and I’m on my way to a hunting spot. Okay maybe binoculars on occasion. No rails, only low mount rings, nominal power oculars and minimal objectives. Ahhh traveling light is so much simpler. Let’s just say when it comes to gear I’m proud to be a simpleton- lol. And I can reliably take quarry offhand to 300 as I can supported. Not that I would, because I’ll always opt for supported shots. Everyone so concerned about equipment for 700 yard plus shots. I wonder if they remember what true hunting (stalking is). Forget about being proficient offhand out to 200. Those are probably words of a foreign language. Anyhow, once you think your going out to 600 you may want to consider a rail. Level rail would be fine.

Fuucking retard.

Another one of these guys.. "its only "true" hunting if you do it the way I do it"...

Then comes into the LONG RANGE HUNTING FORUM to trash talk long range hunting...

Brilliant.

Here is a clue:

It does not matter if I use my .44 Mag at 100 yards on a bull elk.



Or sneak right up to rock throwing distance of a speed goat.



Or pop a fat cow elk 5 football fields away.




for a well practiced shooter, a high probability shot is just that, versus a low probability one. You might want to educate yourself before you continue to post in the long range forum.

Mackay_Sagebrush - flank security.

One mans long range may be another mans chip shot.....

LoL. Nailed it. Thank you.

From 1865 to 1965 100,000,000 military rifles were built that started at 200 yards and went out to past 1000 yards.

Then in 1965 someone figured out that at the squad to squad skirmish level, almost no shots were beyond 200 yards.

This is not as over the top as the average guy buying a $100k bass boat.

20 moa rails is just dealing with human nature..... this one will not take 100 years to straighten out.