Folks,
I just acquired the above varmint rifle with a heavy barrel.
I've not loaded or shot this caliber before. I do load for several other calibers. Any pointers on what brand of brass? Normally use Lapua or Nosler IF I can get it! Ordering Redding dies tomorrow and I'm looking around for 50 grain Sierras or Nosler, not easy.
I've got N133-N135-N140-N150_IMR 4895-Varget on hand, any preference?
I was told not to look for MOA accuracy from a No.1 but I'm going to give it a chance. Sometime load development shrinks groups.
do you think the 22-250 Remington in this rifle is an honest 300-yard coyote / groundhog rifle?
Thank you in advance for your time and consideration.
Shoot straight and stay healthy.
Semper Fi
Soup

Soup soup soup. If you aren't looking for moa or better, this may not be the right forum for you buddy. Also the 50gr pills have terrible bc. At minimum I'd be running the 53gr Vmax with the better bc. You also didn't say if your rifle has a custom barrel with a fast twist. If it were, you could use higher bc bullets like the 77gr sierra or 80+gr pills. This may be why you are not getting a response. Also, from what I've seen with the Ruger #1, they are not tack drivers by any means. If I were wanting to consistently hit groundhogs at 300+ yards, I'd be looking for a sub moa rifle. And that would be consistent sub moa for 10 shots, not 3 at 100. Then shoot it out to your max distance and see what your rifle can do. Say 400 yards at least. Further out it's alright to use 3 shots for triangulation and poi testing. At 100, 3 shots should be a ragged hole. Then, at longer range, I'd be looking at nice consistent looking 3 shot groups at minimum. That's the only way your are going to know what it's going to do at distance. This is the long range forum, right? Ruger used to run the 1 in 14" twist on most of their 22-250's, which really limits you to the bullet you can use. If that is the factory barrel, you may not even be able to use the 53gr Vmax, as some guys have issues with it not stabilizing in a 1 in 14" twist barrel. YMMV with that, as they shoot very well in my 14 twist rifles. A coyote is a big target at 300 yards, but a groundhog or sage rat or similar is not and would require decent accuracy. Hence the reason I suggest sub moa.. Since you ask about powders, I don't use any on your list. I use H4895 and AR Comp. I think we need more info on your rifle. What is the twist rate? What's the bore condition? Is the throat toast or has it had minimum rounds through it? All important factors when considering a 22-250..

50 sierra blitz kings shot really well in 1/14.

Soup, haven’t used any of the N powders you’ve listed but Varget and 4895 work pretty well with the 22-250. I also can’t answer you on how accurate the Ruger will be but I’d still expect it to be a good shooter in a 22-250. I know a few folks like them a lot and have a couple fairly easy trick moves if they aren’t shooting to standard.

Even with the 14 twist you should still be good with most of the 50’s and likely with the 52 ELD and probably even the 55 grain tipped bullets as well.

I’m not sure if they are still available but Hornadys 55 grain SP might be of use to you in that gun. They are usually dirt cheap and work on varmints up through deer. They’re usually accurate as hell too.

Good luck with the #1. Hope it is a great shooting rifle.

I bought new #1Vs in .223 and .22-250 about thirty-five (or more) years ago. Both were very accurate, but neither would hold a zero for long, and, as I recall, I tried different scopes.

Since then, I worked with another .22-250, a bolt-action. It had a commercial Mauser action and a Lilja barrel and a 6X Lyman silhouette scope. Very accurate with many bullets but I generally used the 50 grain Sierra Blitz and H4895 powder. I don't remember whether or not I tried this combination in the #1V, but I suspect it would have been accurate in it, too.

i really like Ruger #1`s great rifle , the very 1st thing i do is clean the barrel well and use my bore scope ,then i see how well the rifle will shoot with my hand loads , if there is a problem with accuracy i glass bed part of the forearm and float the rest. i preferred 52 -55 gr. bullets and in a 22-250 i used H414 or WIN. 760 . i always volume load my powder with a Redding bench rest powder measure, use Redding dies ,Federal or Remington primers, brass is either Federal or Remington. have a great time shooting your Ruger #1 one of America`s finest made firearms,Pete53

My first .22-250 was a Ruger, though it was an M77 tanger, not a #1. 40 grains of H380, 50 grain hornady SX, WW brass, and Fed 210m primers. Half inch. A more recent .22-250 really liked Varget with Speer 50 grain TNT and those Hornady 50 grain SX bullets. I have not had a lot of luck with 55s, especially the longer polymer tipped bullets, in a 1-14" twist. (Exception was a Swift with a PacNor barrel.)

The only #1 I've gotten to shoot consistently sub MOA was a .375 H&H stainless. I've gotten a couple others down near MOA. You can help a good bit by adding a set screw between the forend hanger and the barrel to maintain constant tension there and dampen the vibrations that come as the main spring drives the hammer. Often that will fix vertical stringing.

Tom

If you cant find Sierra or Nosler, Hornady seems to be pumping out product. Their #2240 the 50gr. SX shot very well for me in a 77V over 4895 or RL15 with devastating ('splodey) results on groundhogs. Pushed not quite to max, I think it was around 3800fps, 300 yds shouldn't be much of a problem. I've heard Varget may do better, but it wasn't a thing yet when I had a 22-250.

Tom gave you good advice, bed the forearm also slightly relieve and bed the radius/flat where the forearm goes against the action. Quickest way to tune a No.1 is add a Hicks Accurizer before bedding. As far as bullets 53 VMax is an iffy with your 14 twist. Found on mine it likes flat base more than boat tails. 53/55 Varmageddon shoot well, 50 blitz or 53 Sierra work also. Powders H380, 4895, Benchmark and Varget work good. Also get the trigger cleaned up by a smith who knows what he’s doing. Best prospect is 3/4” with occasional 1/2” or better but it will never be a consistent 1/2” gun. Good Luck.

https://eabco.com/Hickspkg.pdf

Mine,

The barrel is the heavy varmint 1 in 14 twist. The action is bedded where it touches the forend but the barrel is not free floated .
It has a 3 screw adjustable trigger which is currently very nice and as I stated fully adjustable . I've also got a Kepplinger set trigger but don't feel the need to install right now .
I'm looking for a Wilson case length gauge and a modified case to use with my Stony Point gauge ,can't seem to buy one anywhere .
Thank you
Soup

The 55 ballistic tip shot well in a 1 in 14 22-250 I once had. I have a 1 in 8 twist now. I hope it shoots well for you.

somehow i would float the front part of the barrel if possible that will always be a small problem otherwise with retaining same point of aim and impact if not floated. you will have to shoot this rifle to find out what grain weight bullet shoots best , myself i have always been more consistent with group size at 100 yards with a heavier bullet. ballistic tip bullets like posted are a great cheaper accurate bullet i sure like them.

Soup: Soup: Soup: I actually own and Hunt with SEVERAL Ruger #1 Rifles - mostly the #1-B models - but I also own and Hunt with 3 (three) Ruger #1-V models.
And two of those are in caliber 22-250 Remington.
One of the 22-250's is the stainless steel laminated stock model - it easily bests 1 M.O.A. for 5 shot groups at 100 yards.
The other is the blued walnut stock model with heavy barrel.
I prefer LOTS of variable scope power on my heavy barrel Varmint Rifles and these two sport my favorite - the Leupold 6.5x20's!
Those scopes are one of the reasons those two Rifles shoot so well - I am sure.
My third heavy barrel Ruger #1-V is another stainless steel model with the laminated stock - it is in caliber 204 Ruger - I love this Rifle and again it easily bests 1 M.O.A.
I hesitate to recommend a specific powder for your 22-250 because my 22-250 Rifles have been settled on loads for a long time and the new powders were not tried.
One bullet I hope you try in your 22-250 is the Sierra 55 grain Blitz (not the BlitzKing) - it does everything well - including Rock Chucks and Coyotes!
I have been buying and shooting Ruger #1's since they first came out (first #1 was a beautifully stocked 6m/m Rem. with serial # 1,300!) and I will be the first to say that "accuracy" can sometimes be difficult to attain with the various models of #1's.
But over the decades the heavy barrels have been easier to attain accuracy" with - in my experience.
Best of luck to you with that 22-250 - and I feel your pain in seeking out components in todays market.
Keep us advised.
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

I just bought a No1 V in 22-250 also. I have a 223 No1 V, that gun shoots very tiny groups with a 55 grain bullet. I am hopeful on the 22-250 also. I have not shot the 22-250 but I have never had a bad No 1. Yes some took some work, but so far all have been at least MOA rifles in the end. I am will be working on three new ones soon including the 22-250, 300 wm and a 45/70.
I had a 220 swift that was almost as accurate as the .223.
It averaged 3/8” groups. Should still be in my safe. The above .223 will be with me until I pass it to my grandson along with my 257 roberts. The Roberts took the most work as it was a 3-4” in gun when Ruger sent it as a replacement. I drilled and tapped a set screw in the hanger
and made a saddle with a recess for the screw. Kinda of a homemade Hicks. I made a wedge of wood and moved it in and out shooting groups with out the forend. I found the sweet spot which gave me a approx of forend tension needed. ( I drilled forend set screw after testing with the wedge). I then bedded the forend and free floated the
forend along with relieving the stock slightly where it contacted the receiver. I had article years ago that showed the procedures. I am not sure but think it was Guns and Ammo written by Ross Seyfried. Good
luck and dont be surprised if it shoots nice groups or needs work. Enjoy the process

Soup,

I havent messed with as many #1’s as some others on here have but the ones I have messed with shot preferred loads very well. The last two I played with were in 22hornet and .222 and both shot preferred loads around 1/2” for 5 shots at 100 yards.
Neither are heavy barreled varmint rifles and both are bone stock. I would suggest making sure the quarter rib on yours is tight.

As far as the 22-250 being a 300 yard coyote or ground hog rifle… absolutely yes. I’ve killed many coyotes at 400-500+ yards with a 22-250. I’ve probably shot more H4895 through 22-250 barrels than everything else combined but did try 8208 a few years ago when I got yet another 22-250 for shooting coyotes and it seems to work just as well. Varget, imr4064, h380, CFE223 have all worked well for me. I generally shoot 50BT for coyotes as fast as I can push them because they usually go in and blow to pieces and don’t destroy the hide coming out. As far as general purpase bullets the 55 hornady sp is cheap and accurate and kills anything from p dogs to deer. I’ve had good luck with about any bullets in 14 twist 22-250’s except the 55 blitz king and 53 vmax.
Good luck with your new rifle!

TTT

I still a 1974 birth year Ruger # 1 in 22/250, the rifle shoot 1/2 inch groups right out of the box. I used Bruce Hodgdon load of 38.0 of H-380. Supposedly Bruce named "H-380" for his load of 38 grains that he used in his 22/250 rifles......this was story often printed in the gun magazines in the 70's. Not sure if true but the load certainly worked in my rifle.

I love the Ruger no1 for shooting prairie dogs
Mine is in 20 tac
They don’t particularly shoot with a bolt gun
But I’m a hiker so I shoot off sticks and a Turkey chair no benches and there becomes more variables
Involved than group size
It will still work fine at 3-400 yds
If you miss that means you get to shoot again

No experience with the 22-250, but I recently completed a custom #1 that I had rebarreled to 6mm CM.

For the forearm bedding, Apoxie Sculpt is the way to go for the hanger to forearm fit. Very controllable and will not run like other bedding compounds. I got a 1/4 lb kit and after using it to build up and bed the stock and forearm, I still have quite a bit left.

Here I am bedding the hanger to forearm. This is a fiberglass stock. After bedding this area, I bed the area between the receiver and forearm, using one layer of tape to insure that area was free floated. I then used Marine Tex Grey for the remainder, using tape on the barrel to create the free float. If I was doing a wood stock, I would probably just do the hanger spot and just make sure the barrel was free floated.




The 6mm CM is shooting a consistent 1/2" at 100yards. I have not drilled and tapped the hanger on that rifle yet, but have done so on another #1 in 338Wm that showed improvement.

A little different slant on loading for a 22-250.

I developed my favorite load for the 22-250 in '79 for a 14 inch twist MIJ Wea Mk V Varmintmaster. Fifteen years later, the load worked just as well in a new Savage 112V, until I toasted the barrel.

34.3 gr IMR 3031 with a CCI 200 and the Hornady 60 gr spire point gave very consistent .75 moa.

Not the fastest or flattest load over the first 250 yds. But I developed the load to shoot beyond 300 yds.

Final note: The Hornady flat base spire point always shot well for me in 14 twist. Not so with any boat tail poly tip in 60 gr.

I have the exact rifle, best I ever got it to shoot was with a 55 gr. v-max and a max charge of H-380, it did 1 1/4" at 250 yards, but it does need trigger work, working on finding someone to do it in my rural area. However I did once take 9 out of 10 crows at 380 yards.

Take it apart and polish all the engaging surfaces. Nothing wrong with a Ruger trigger that taking off the rough edges wont cure;

Yes, it’s more than an honest 300 yard coyote rifle. I’d shoot deer at that range with the right bullet of any standard weight. Like a good soft point or X bullet. Soft points better I think.