Newbie questions....

I am setting up my 6.5CM with a 2.5-15x44 scope. The scope has a ballistic turret and am planning to set it up to shoot up to 500 yards once I finish develop a load for the rifle. A few questions I have so far are:

1. Is a scope level a necessity when I am NOT planning to shoot beyond 500~600 yards?

2. I am intrigued by Accuracy 1st scope level. Are any of you familiar with it? If so would you share some pros and cons?


When I plug in the BC for the BT set up, the bullet (Hornady ELD-X 143 gn) has G1 and G7 BC under MACH 2.25, 2.0, 1.75. Since I am calculating out to 500 yards, I am planning to use BCs under MACH 2.0 column.

3. Do I use G1 or G7 BC to calculate the trajectory? They are quite different....0.604 G1 vs. 0.303 G7 for the bullet.

Regards,

For your uses and distance:

1: a level probably isn’t necessary but isn’t a negative either. Some of my rifles have levels and some don’t, shooters choice there.

2: I have no experience with the accuracy 1st model quoted but know guys that like them. Assuming the scope tracks true and the reticle is leveled to the bubble level it will be fine.

2: g1 drag model was designed for flat based bullets and g7 for boat tails so g7 is a more accurate model for the eld-x. G7 numbers aren’t as big on paper so it doesn’t sound as cool but it’s better.

Stabila makes the most accurate bubble level.....

Personally, I don't use scope levels. It's not automatic, but after shooting enough I can see when the scope is level or not. A SCATT machine has helped develop this sense. You? I can't speak for. A lot of competitors use a level.

What is your ballistic calculator? Can you shoot close enough to need something beyond JBM? 600 yards is pretty close (it's still only midrange), but what size target are you shooting at? Will you take advantage of sighters? I'd use JBM and choose the bullet from the list to set up the turret. There are a lot of variables that can be input, most won't count for more than a 1/2 minute. A change of 1,000 feet in elevation isn't even good for a minute of elevation at 600.

What scope? What rifle? What mounting system? Why a 143?

1) Whatever it takes to be square

2) The only place I want bubbles,is in a creek

3) G7

Hint...............

Thanks so much for your feedback folks. Really appreciate your input.

I am setting up my rifle/scope for 500 yards for my fall hunts. Though I feel comfortable shooting at that range and maybe a bit beyond, I am hoping to be able to get closer to my targets.





To answer your questions, I chose Hornady ELD-X 143gn 6.5 mm because I have read numerous positive reviews. It appears my rifle likes it. During my preliminary range session, it is shooting < 1/2 MOA.

I will use the G7 BC to calculate out my ballistics. I am using Swarovski calculator for the BT on my Z6i 2.5~15x44.

Regards,

yhc

Shoot 147's instead,sell the Swaro and get a real scope that tracks/repeats/holds zero.

Hint.................

Thanks again for the input. I will look into 147s.

Swarovski has been working out very well for my hunting purposes. Just curious as to what you would consider a “real scope”?

Regards,

Real scopes track,hold zero and do not waiver POA/POI on zoom shift.

Hint..............

I haven’t seen anything so far that’d make me pick the 143 over the 147, and the 147 does add a bit of slip as well.





If the 143’s shoot I’d bet the 147’s will as well.

I didn't see that on your rifle last weekend at the Icebreaker, when you pounded the 1500 yard target over and over...…(In the wind).

Must have been luck...;)

I have.... if shooting them at Big Game, I’ll take the 143 every time. I wasn’t impressed with the 147s on deer, penetration was lacking, and the one bullet we recovered weighed about 35 grains.... it fell out of one of the entrance wounds when we rolled the deer over. Haven’t caught a 143 yet.

Where's the patented bungee cord attachment mechanism?

bungees are for amateurs......quick-grip clamps, or bust, for us 'pro's....

Like??????

I think he might be talking about fixed phaquers, they do track and hold zero, glass is mid-range but very useable.

At extended ranges a scope level is a benefit, especially under field conditions. Bench resters level with the front mount.

This point is easily proven when shooting small targets at distance........try getting reliable hits at 1000 and beyond without a scope level! If you come to my range don't forget to bring lots of money.

The OP says 600 yds, max.

At 600, it's pretty easy to see a 1/2 MOA cant. I can even see a 1/4 MOA cant without much problem. The biggest problem is paying attention to it.

If the target is generous in size at 600 yards proper technique will probably get you by.

That is cool......does it come with a rail you can hang a tactical flashlight on??

I don't know what happened to this company, but I thought they had the best scope level. Tuneable, electronic, flashes Green when within used-defined tolerances.
https://web.archive.org/web/20070613051158/http://www.microlevel.biz/

I've seen a couple of these in use, IMHO, they were pretty bright in twilight illumination, even on the lowest setting.

https://www.shortactionprecision.com/products/send-it-electronic-level-system

But they did help a shooter get hits out to ~ 1400 yards with his rifle.

For the OP, a simple quality bubble level will meet anything you need to start - SWFA, Vortex, they work.

Don, you’ve been hanging with cummincowboy at the park again 😬😎

Beav, you cut me deep.......

LMFAO. Be kind fellas.

Hunts, I humbly apologize. That was low, and I’am sorry. Congrats on banging 1500 yard steel consistently. 😎