7.5" gets you the A-Tip in all atmospheres and I find it strange brew to concoct something,that won't even eat your own wares. It all plays nice in typical 2.800"-ish COAL OEM mag confines. Hint.
88's will do nice things in 8" and that's better than 9". Hint.
I have a 7 twist HH that should find it's way onto a Montana honestly. Kinda think that'd be the combo I'd like the most. And probably least amount of money overall to get there.
I only have (5) rifles so chambered,with only 1-7",7.5" and 8" represented. Hint.
The 224 Speedmire shines brightly in a Montucky and The 'Horn has (3) of 'em. 88's are a Holy Fhuqking TERROR,no matter what they are inserted into and 80's are piles of fhuqking schit in comparison. Hint................
7.5" gets you the A-Tip in all atmospheres and I find it strange brew to concoct something,that won't even eat your own wares. It all plays nice in typical 2.800"-ish COAL OEM mag confines. Hint.
Agreed, 1:7.5 or 1:7 is the way to roll. One of the rifle manufacturers will see the forest through the trees.
I only have (5) rifles so chambered,with only 1-7",7.5" and 8" represented. Hint.
The 224 Speedmire shines brightly in a Montucky and The 'Horn has (3) of 'em. 88's are a Holy Fhuqking TERROR,no matter what they are inserted into and 80's are piles of fhuqking schit in comparison. Hint................
How is the standard chamber/throat dim. look in your opinion? S
R28 - you said Maximize performance.......well anything over 23-24" is more than I want, but I would go 22-23 if you want good handling vs a say 26" - blast it going to go up obviously. If you are not running a can, and want a portable sporter to carry, I would go 22-23 with a #2 - #3 contour, given the 22 bore, should shoot fine. I do like short stiff barrels, but my ears matter also, even with hearing protection, so there comes a point.....
Bore size and powder capacity as you can imagine affect powder burn per length, therefore performance and blast. Just depends on application. For a handy truck gun, a 17-20" works well, but one will lose some speed and increase blast. IIRC, Heavies have less 'loss' as you shorten tube vs running lighter bullet weights.
I would expect a nominal loss of 35-40 fps per 1" (starting at say 24/26) just a SWAG........
R28 - you said Maximize performance.......well anything over 23-24" is more than I want, but I would go 22-23 if you want good handling vs a say 26" - blast it going to go up obviously. If you are not running a can, and want a portable sporter to carry, I would go 22-23 with a #2 - #3 contour, given the 22 bore, should shoot fine. I do like short stiff barrels, but my ears matter also, even with hearing protection, so there comes a point.....
Bore size and powder capacity as you can imagine affect powder burn per length, therefore performance and blast. Just depends on application. For a handy truck gun, a 17-20" works well, but one will lose some speed and increase blast. IIRC, Heavies have less 'loss' as you shorten tube vs running lighter bullet weights.
I would expect a nominal loss of 35-40 fps per 1" (starting at say 24/26) just a SWAG........
You are welcome, you will do fine I am sure, look forward to hearing of your build specs and results, and perhaps pics!
Count on it.
Actually, I purchased my first Sig Cross in May. It is a 16” barreled 308. Fell in love with it, so I bought another, shipped it to the gunsmith to install a 22” Benchmark barrel.
Got to thinking that since these rifles were sort of a switch-barrel setup, I’d buy a third & have it set up with a 22 Creedmoor barrel. So, that’ll be the extent of the build per say. I have no doubt it will shoot bench rest accurate.
K7 - nice. I know years back I mentioned a '22-CM' after the 6.5 and later 6 came out. With heavy for cal bullets, the only downside I see for deer/hog sized game and under, is bore life. Recoil should be minimal, and case life should be much better than say an OEM 22/250 and Swift.
Suggestions on freebore and neck? Smith suggested a .259 neck in case I want to neck down Lapua 6 creed brass - what's the thickness of the Alpha? 0.100 freebore good for the 88's?
Without starting another thread & since we are on the subject, I am not as versed on twists as I could be. The barrel I intend to purchase is a 7.5" twist. The only reference I have is my old Ruger 77, tang safety in 220 Swift. While I do not know what the twist rate it was, It shot commercial Norma 55gr ammo into one ragged hole. Based upon the performance of that round on Texas Whitetail's I was thinking I'd like to stay in that bullet weight range as opposed to tailoring the barrel to a specific bullet weight. I have no idea going into it. The thought of 60's sounds like a great prospect listening to y'all discuss it. I would not mind 50's either. Again, any input is appreciated.
Your old Ruger is (99% sure) a 14 inch twist. It will stabilize everything up to and including most 60 gr bullets with the exception of polymer tipped 60 gr or monometal bullets.
I shot thousands of the Hornady 60 gr spire point from a couple of 22-250 rifles with the standard for the day 14 inch twist. I killed my first deer with that bullet.
If you never intend to shoot a heavier bullet than a 60 gr, then a 12 inch twist barrel will do anything you ever ask.
We used to hear "overstabilization" mentioned occasionally. It is not really a thing, with good bullets. What is a thing, is spinning a soft point bullet so fast that it can come apart. This might be a concern if one attempts to run a 40 gr 22 cal soft point at 4300 fps from a 22 Creed in a 7.5 twist barrel.
If you intend to work with heavy weight bullets like the 75 gr and heavier, then get the 7.5 twist and consider a 60 gr your minimum bullet weight.