I picked up an old FN Browning a little while ago that needed a stock. I dug around a little and got one out of the bargain bin from Great American Gunstock Co. for what I thought was a good price.

I've started to sand it up over the last couple of months. Downloaded several how to's and working through the process - taking my time. The wood is coming up beautifully, not sure what the defect was...

Probably finish it with tru-oil.

Anyway, the original stock has some checkering that I would like to duplicate on this one. I see Brownells has checkering kits, but, but,..

I would not say I'm a gifted craftsman but I can do nice work if I take my time. I'd appreciate some voices of experience on checkering. Is it hard to do? The tools don't seem expensive but which ones?

Thanks in advance.

Find a copy of Monty Kennedy's book, I think it is "Carving and Checkering Gunstocks"

There are a 1000 different way's to finish a wood stock. Some way's are well thought out and some are just pure voodoo. I'll share my way. It's simple and gives decent results.

After I finish shaping and sanding the stock down using 300gt paper, I stop the sanding process and seal the stock with Permalyn stock sealer. I'll let this dry for at least 8 hours. After that I'll fill the pours in the wood. The way I do this is I'll make a "mud" using rotton stone, bone black and Permalyn stock finish. I mix 3 parts rotton stone to 1 bone black and then mix it with the stock finish until it becomes a paste. Get and old Tee shirt and start rubbing this paste into the pours of the stock. When you do this the stock is going to turn black from the bone black. Don't worry about it, you're going to sand it off later. Let dry and repeat this process a few more times until you feel like you've got all pours filled. IMPORTANT: If this stock is already checkered don't let this paste get in the checkering. If it does use a toothbrush and some mineral spirts and brush it out before it dries. After the stock is dry it'll be completely black and gray. Get a bucket of water and some 300gt wet/dry sand paper and start after it. Keep going until you get all the bone black sanded off the exterior of the stock and it's only in the pours. I usually go over the stock one last time with 500gt paper and call it finished. This will give your wood a VERY rich look to it.

After that I let the stock dry a day or two inside the house. When I feel it's dry I'll seal the stock again with the Permalyn stock sealer. After the sealer is dry I'll hand rub about 3 coats of finish on. I don't do anything inbetween coats but let it dry. After 3 coats are on and dry I'll wet sand VERY,VERY,VERY lightly. Just enough to knock the "fuzzies" off. Be very careful not to break the finish.

When that stage is complete, here is where I vere off the path a little. Most people will rub every single drop of finish on a stock, I don't. the way I do mine is I'll smear the finish on very heavy on about half the stock. I'll let it sit for a minute or two then I buff it off with a Tee shirt. I'll repeat this process about 10-15 times. Enough finish stay's on that it builds up but doesn't leave shiny or dull spots you can get when you hand rub sometimes.

I really like the Permalyn stock finish. It looks and works like an oil but it's a poly finish and is extremaly durable.

Permalym sealer & finish, Rotton stone & Bone Black can all be ordered from MidwayUSA.

Here are some results of this technique. Notice the black purs, it's a nice touch.






Hope that helps,
Terry

Thanks Terry,

Yes this will help, I'll post picks when it's done.

I was at first thinking of a synthetic stock but it just didn't seem right with that old FN Browning. Even though this is taking some work I'm liking how the wood is turning out.

Got a bunch more done tonight watching the Steelers squeak one out.

I applaud your efforts! It sounds like you are approaching the project with the right attitude. There are as many ways to finish a gunstock as there are opinions on internet forums. They are all good (well, most of them). You need to settle on what works for you. After, and only then, you have mastered the art of stock finishing should you look toward checkering. Monty Kennedy's book remains the best. Ask questions 'til you're no longer welcome, read everything you can lay your hands on, then buy a set of basic tools from Brownell's. (I went with DemBart's, and still use them, but there are others out there---maybe better) Then, lay out patterns on pieces of scrap wood and start checkering. Make your mistakes there, (and you will make mistakes) and not on that nifty stock you just created. Step up to pieces of curved scraps, and when you can lay out and execute a neat checkering pattern there then snatch up your new stock. Checkering is one of those art forms that may seem daunting, but if one takes it a simple step at a time, one can do it.

bumpage...........

Browning FN update...

I was (before Christmas) going through a highly iterative process in order to fit the action into the stock. I have not done this before so I'm probably far slower than most. One has to try to fit the stock in, see where it's hanging up, and then sand or chisel a little bit out - then repeat. The action is almost fitting although the safety tang seems to be hanging up on something inside. Just getting back into it...

I have a Brownells glass bedding kit ready to go, this will require some more reading.

I picked up a copy of Monty Kennedy's book, good book and very useful. Kennedy laid out some plans for a stock carving brace stand that I'm going to make.

I am practicing on Pine right now with my new DemBart checkering set.

This is taking some time but it's kind of enjoyable as well.

FWIW - After you've finished getting the method straight, on pine - get off softwood and onto a hardwood ASAP, preferably a scrap with some grain twists in it.

Then, when you've moved up to curved practice pieces, scrounge a beater take-off gunstock somewhere, that has impressed checkering on it, and rechecker the existing pattern to positive checkering (if it's negative checkering), or re-point it if it's positive.

I hope you are gifted with patience.

.

Absolutely no value in spending time on junk IMO&E. Make a set of handgun grips or something similar and checker them. Working with something you have no intention of using will lead to a lack of attention and care.

Retracing checkering is an entirely different skill set from actually checkering... Start with something like rosewood which will cut beautifully and you will learn what it is supposed to feel like.
art

Thanks for the input guys.

Right now I'm trying to get on to the tools by carving out some patterns I've drawn on a flat piece of pine.

Next step is to get some walnut from the building supply. I'll check and see if they have rosewood.

And yes, patience is required.

Westcoaster
PM sent...

Art,

Final finish question?

I have used Tru-Oil for the finish is okay. Some areas look great, some look good. The rear butt area still shows some open grain, and quite frankly, I am tired of playing with it. May spend some time next winter, for now I am done.

The question I have is should I put a final coat such as wax on it. I have tried the Howards Wax-N-Feed, and it looks okay, but I don't think it is really sealed. I think the Wax-N-Feed is more for indoor use.

Would Johnsons Wax work okay if I need a final protective finish.

Thanks,

Curly

Curly
If you ever see the word "feed" in a wood finish product throw it away. Period! The concept is beyond absurd and only done to confuse folks and pimp product.

Johnson's is a good wax and will hurt nothing. Do not use automotive waxes as they almost always have a lot of silicone in them. That will give you grief when you put on another coat of oil.

Oil finishes are basically oils, resins, waxes and solvents. Oils and resins build the finish layer, waxes help it flow out and look good while solvents make it easy to apply.

I like Bri-Wax better than Johnson's as it is harder, but it is also much glossier. Johnson's is good stuff and I would never hesitate to use it.
art

Thanks Art,

I was just not sure if I needed to put a final finish coat on the wood.

I am assuming that this will need to be periodically reapplied?

Curly

I use paste wax everywhere on guns, especially when they are going to see saltwater use. Metal and wood get a heavy application. If it is below grade and unseen it gets wiped, but not buffed particularly. Topside gets polished.

Repeat as often as you like. With wax the polishing removes all but the thinnest layer... Adding more really does not add more, just redistributes it.
art

You mention above that after you have 3 coats on, you will wet sand VERY VERY VERY lightly. What grit paper? 500 or even finer?

Bob