We just had the thread about what I should do, build my FN husqvarna or buy a Model 70. Well I had offered that FN along time ago to a friend that didn't have his own rifle and had actually forgot I offered it. He showed up today with the money and he was so happy to have his own rifle (he's had a scope for 4 years) I decided to follow through and sell it to him.

I loved that mauser and I have decided to build one but I know little to nothing about mauser actions. I am looking for the best one thats pretty common to find. I would like to keep the action around 5-6 hundred. This is where it gets complicated.

Fn
Husqvarna
Model 96
Model 98
Santa Barbra (sp)
Brno
VZ24
CZ
Mark X
And the list goes on and on and on and on

My head is spining at the options. I would like to get my money in with the best I can but have no idea what that would be.

What should I be on the look out for? Ones to stay away from? I wanted to do a .30-06 but have decided that being a mauser I will go 7x57 or .300 H&H depending on what action and bottom metal I can find.

So what should be on my shopping list? I am not in a hurry so I don't mind waiting for the right one.

Thanks you guys

Jason

Things that are important to me
Smooth bolt
Good gas handling abilities
Strong action

I know the smooth bolt is something I could feel for myself but I will likely be buying over the net so handling the rifle is not an option.

Jason,

If I were building a custom Mauser... (And yes, I've built more than a couple...) I'd go for the commercial actions:

FN
JC Higgins M-50 or M-51 (FN action)
H&R (FN action)
Firearms Int'l (FN action)
Husqvarna
Lastly; Interarms MK-X, Chas Daly, Remington 98

I'd steer clear of the Santa Barbara (Made in Spain)

Military actions I'd consider: VZ-24, 1909 Argentine, FN or Oberndorf Mauser

Just a matter of opinion... Hope it helps...

Someone else's opinion may differ...

Edw

The Interarms MkX and its followers were built on old FN tooling. Jc Higgens was the real sleeper of the bunch for a while, FN action and could be had for less than $300. I've paid as little as $175 for some of the ones that I had.

other than the thumb cut what are the differences from the military to commercial actions? The VZ24 is fairly cheap and common. I also have a source to choose from a ton of husqvarna actions but what one and what to look for in them?

Thanks

I had an old friend haul me around to some gun makers years ago and we had a couple of rifle components done 1909 Mausers worked over. He was a Mauser nut as I would call him. He tried to show me the merits of Mausers over other actions. I even bought the book of Mausers. If I was going to go with a build I would go with CZ. Double square bridge ,very strong actions. I have a couple 602 ZZK Brnos and a CZ I really like them. JMO

If you have access to many Husqvarna actions, find a favorite and go to town. I think they're some of the finest Mauser style actions made. I don't think you can go wrong.

A lot depends on the bottom metal that comes with it. If you can find a commercial action with a hinged floorplate that's often a really good. The only real advantage of the 1909 Argentine is the hinged floorplate.

The big difference between FN actions and Mark X's is the FN's are better finished, but that doesn't make all that much difference on a custom rifle. The Husqvarna's are very nice.

You'll have to spend more money getting a military 98 sporter-ready than a military action. Some of th emilitary actions will vary in quality depending on when they were made. VZ24's, for instance, are usually pretty good actions, but those made in the middle of WWII aren't nearly as well-finished, and the steel can be suspect.

These days, if I had to make a choice between a military 98 and CZ 550 action, I'd take the CZ, especially if I was contemplating a .300 H&H.

I would go with a model 640 Husky Hipower which has a large Ring FN mauser action. I would look for one with a crack in the buttstock that was in relatively good shape and go from there.I would search Simpsons Ltd. and or Alan's Armory to find the action that you wanted.

Sometimes you can find a CZ on absolute clearance that has been abused. I would then research the living heck out of mausers to get an overview about them.

After that level I might look at the 1909 Argentine small ring mauser. They are nice but a little more expensive.

Sincerely,
Thomas
Sincerely,
Thomas

The ideal action for you is strongly determined by your cartridge choice: the 7X57 can go in an intermediate length Mauser, but the .300 H&H really wants a magnum length action.

Here is my Western Field M720B built by EF Heym on an intermediate length commercial Mauser action for US import. This one has the traditional bottom metal with the small lever. I have been thinking of converting this one to .257 R (it is an '06 now).

There are lots of good candidates out there...jim

CZ with an aftermarket (I like the Ed LaPour unit) model 70 style safety. Can be had easily in the right length for an H&H. Smooth and nicely finished with an integral dovetail for scope rings already milled into the action. Wonderful action, bottom metal, trigger, scope base etc, to start with. Having minimal dollars of expensive gunsmithing to be done one can then spend the money on nice wood and a great barrel. BTDT, see avatar to the left of this post......

300 Holland + Mauser = $$$.

The 7X57 is a natural on a M98.

The CZ550 isn't a Mauser. Not even mauser like in my book. I'm not saying it's a bad action, quite good IMO. It's just about as much a mauser as a Remington 700.

Personaly, I would look for a nice Mexican smallring for a 7X57 and look elsewhere for an action for a .300H&H.

Terry

Is the ZKK 602 (pre 1989), closer? I know the safety is, well, different.

With apologies for the length.

Your question is rather complicated because you are really asking several questions, and also because there are many Mauser copies and variations to consider. I would strongly recommend that you get Frank de Haas� Bolt Action Rifle book which discusses many of the Mauser variations as well as related bolt actions such as the Husqvarna, Brno and CZ. Much of the discussion below comes from that book, plus Ludwig Olson�s Mauser Bolt Rifles, with a little bit from Jon Speed, Walter Schmid and Reiner Herrmann�s Original Oberndorf Sporting Rifles and Stuart Olsen�s The Bolt Action.

First things first. In terms of strength, safety and gas handling, you should generally avoid any pre-98 actions, including the M96 you listed among your options (but see exception below). The M98 action has better strength and gas handling than its predecessors.

Of the actions you listed, the FN (Belgian), Santa Barbara (Spanish), VZ-24 (Czech), and Mark X (Zastava from Yugoslavia) are all standard length actions. The FN and Czech are generally considered the best built, with Zastava and Santa Barbara actions rated lower in quality. The early post-war Husqvarna rifles were built on FN actions, the later ones were built on Husqvarna�s own actions which according to Frank de Haas were improved M96 actions and not a modified M98. This action is one exception to the general rule above about avoiding pre-�98 actions (but see further discussion below). You can distinguish between the FN-based Husqvarnas and the later rifles because the FN-based rifles are large ring action and the later Husqvarnas are small ring actions.

Mauser �98 actions can be subdivided into �small ring� and �large ring� actions. Small ring actions have a receiver diameter of about 1.3�, whereas large ring actions have a diameter of 1.4�. Small ring actions would be most suited to light rifles with standard calibers such as 7x57, whereas large ring actions would be considered more suitable for larger diameter cases such as .300 H&H. One way to tell visually is that when you look at the left side of the action at the junction between the receiver ring and the left side-wall, there is always a step down from the ring to the side wall on a large ring action, whereas usually with a small ring action there is no step. The one exception to this that I am aware of is the Czech VZ-33 and 33/40 which does have a small step-down, however unless you are very lucky these actions are outside of your price range.

Another consideration when it comes to cartridges such as the .300 H&H is action length. The standard �98 Mauser action was designed around cartridges such as the 7x57 and 8x57, and can accommodate cartridges such as the .270 and .30-06 without difficulty, however, it is a bit short for .300 H&H length cartridges, requiring some metal removal in the receiver ring, compromising strength. While this has been done successfully with high quality actions such as the FN (which was used by Weatherby for his magnums prior to him coming up with his own action), it is not considered the best way to go. A magnum length action is a better alternative. Of the actions you have listed, only the Brno ZKK-602, CZ 550 and the magnum length Mark X fit this description. The 7x57 can also be used in the "intermediate length" action of which the most common in the US is probably the Mexican Mauser.

From the point of view of a modern sporting rifle, the primary weaknesses of the military Mauser are the lack of a bolt handle and safety adapted for low scope mounting, lack of provision for scope mounting, and double stage military trigger. The inconvenient floorplate release is also a deficiency, and the stripper clip notch and hump is unnecessary. Thus, sporterizing a military Mauser generally addresses these points.

In terms of modifications, mods which improve function include improved triggers and modified bolt handles to clear low scopes, and these are commonly designed into commercial models. The post-war commercial Brnos (and the CZs) from about 1948 onwards have double square bridges with integral dovetails for scope rings. Commercial models frequently have hinged floorplates and releases in the trigger guard. However, other modifications may be made to save costs and may or may not improve functionality.

For example, safeties to clear low mounted scopes can be a mixed bag. The original Mauser safety was quite ingenious in that it blocked the firing pin and locked the bolt in the fully safe position, in the intermediate position blocked the firing pin but allowed the bolt to cycle to empty the cartridges, and also assisted in easy disassembly of the bolt for cleaning. However, because it pivots vertically through 180 degrees to achieve all these functions it was not compatible with low scope mounting. The common �improved� button safety located beside the bolt shroud on the right side does allow for a low-mounted scope but usually only blocks the trigger, which is a less secure system.

In terms of gas handling the original Mauser design is one of the best. Among its features is an internal collar in the receiver ring, which was only interrupted on the right side by the extractor slot � the so-called �C collar�. Gas escaping on the right side was vented out the ejection opening. On the left side, gas escape was largely blocked by the collar, and any gas that got past that was vented out the thumb notch. Gas that got into the bolt was vented into the left locking lug raceway and out the thumb notch. Finally, there was a flange on the bolt shroud to deflect any remaining gas away from the shooter.

Commercial actions based on the Mauser such as the FN and Zastava (Interarms Mark X, etc.) eliminate the thumb notch, which strengthens and stiffens the action (de Haas� book shows a photo of a late WWII Mauser action cracked at the bottom of the thumb notch) at the expense of less effective gas handling in the unlikely event of a case rupture. Furthermore, in the FN, except for the very earliest post-war actions (roughly pre-1948-9), the internal receiver collar was cut out on the left side as well as the right, a cost-saving measure which further compromised gas handling. The Zastava also has the internal collar cut on both sides, whereas the Santa Barbara retains the C-collar internal ring, as does the Brno and CZ. Some actions such as the Brno ZKK and CZ omit the gas deflection flange on the bolt shroud for a more �streamlined� look.

If you want to have ALL of the gas handling features of the Mauser �98 then you�ll have to go with a military action or early commercial actions with thumb notch. However, the general consensus seems to be that converting a military action to a sporter is not cost effective these days. In addition to the modifications already mentioned, the magazine box, follower and feed rails may also need to be worked on because Mauser actions were actually built around the specific cartridge they were designed to be used with. Thus, when a Mauser action is rebarreled for a different cartridge there can be issues with reliability of feeding. But there are still lots of �sporterized� military rifles floating around at reasonable prices which have already have these modifications done, and if (BIG IF) the mods are well done and the price reasonable such a sporterized action could be a cost-effective alternative to a commercial model.

Of the military models the 1909 Argentine Mauser is particularly desirable - hence expensive - because it is the only military model with the hinged floorplate and release found in commercial Mausers (and custom rifles). If you have to buy the bottom metal separately from Sunny Hill, Blackburn, etc. it�ll cost you around $500! Otherwise as others have already mentioned the most desirable military actions are the Czech VZ-24, Argentine 1909, and FN, along with DWM and Oberndorf. Wartime actions (WW II) are less desirable because of concerns about workmanship and metallurgy.

If you can live without some of the gas handling features of the original design then commercial actions have the advantage of having many of the desired modifications built in. In the case of the .300 H&H, they also come in the appropriate length.

TC1�s comment also raises an interesting question � what constitutes a true Mauser action? It can be argued that the essential characteristics of the Mauser action are the dual opposing locking lugs, cock-on-opening firing pin system, third safety lug, non-rotating extractor with controlled round feed, and breech and gas handling system including the internal collar and flanged bolt shroud. Secondary features include the bolt shroud lock to prevent rotation when the bolt is open, ejection system and bolt stop.

When looked at in this light, most commercial FN actions as well as all Zastava actions could be classified as modified Mausers because of the extra cut in the gas collar which degrades gas handling.

On the other hand, the Czech (Brno and CZ) actions up to the present time retain the full Mauser internal gas collar and in this respect are true Mauser 98�s. The early postwar Brnos up through the ZG-47 also retain the ejector system, bolt stop, and safety on the bolt shroud, although the safety design differs from the Mauser and thus, I would argue, would qualify as �true� Mauser actions.

The ZKK and CZ differ from the Mauser in the ejection system and bolt stop, which closely resemble the Winchester M70, and the bolt shroud, which lacks the gas deflecting flange, as well as the different safety and trigger system. The bolt only has a relatively small gas vent hole compared to the dual large vents in the Mauser bolt. In addition, the external shape of the receiver is quite different and requires significantly different inletting into a stock than a Mauser. In his book, Ludwig Olson considers these modifications put the ZKK and successors outside of the Mauser system. However it could be argued that the ZKK and CZ breeching system, which retain the C-collar internal ring and Mauser-type extractor, is closer to the original Mauser design than the later commercial FN and Zastava, which modify the breeching itself by extending the left lug raceway slot through the internal gas collar itself. It should be noted that there has been some controversy about whether the CZ as currently sold, is still a controlled-feed design. It is not clear to me at least whether this is due to design modification or a quality control issue.

The Husqvarna, as mentioned, appears to be a modification of the Mauser 1896 design and lacks the internal collar of the �98, as well as having a gas escape management system marginally inferior to the original 1896 design according to de Haas, albeit comparable to the Winchester pre-64, Enfield 1917 and Springfield. Although it is strong enough for modern cartridge pressures due to its quality materials, it cannot be considered a Mauser 98-type action IMO.


So, some desirable Mauser actions:

Original and copies:
Oberndorf Mauser military and commercial (expensive)
DWM military
FN military and pre-WWII commercial
Czech VZ-24
Argentine 1909 (probably too expensive)
Czech VZ-33 and G33/40 (small ring, probably too expensive)
Mexican 1910 and 1935 (small ring, designed for 7x57)
Early post-war (pre-49) FN commercial actions
Brno 21/22 (expensive)
Brno ZG-47 (expensive)

Modified Mauser-types
FN post-1948 (also found in early Husqvarna, JC Higgins M50/M51, H&R, Browning, Firearms Intl, Western Field)
Zastava (Interarms Mark X, Charles Daly, Remington 798) � generally considered lower quality than FN, but Interarms version had a magnum length action
Brno ZKK 600 series � comes in magnum length action
CZ 550 series � comes in magnum length action

Of course, this is just my opinion and I could be wrong.

Thanks you guys. So many options.

Find a nice early 60's Browning Safari in .270 and you're all set...money ahead and resale return will be higher.

Jlin22,

I applaud you, Sir for your comprehensive, but fairly brief synsopsis on the the suitably of Mauser Actions. I have all three books that you mentioned, but I still learned something from your post.

Many years ago I looked down my nose at all Mauser actions. My thoughts at the time, were that they were 2nd class war relics. I have learned much since, and I now appreciate the better ones for what they are. I am now down to just a few, but I truly like them. Anyone considering building a Mauser would do well to read and heed your post.

Edw

Where does a guy find a NIB FN action?

"Where does a guy find a NIB FN action?"

According to de Haas, FN stopped making Mauser action rifles in the 1970s. My 1974 Gun Digest lists them but my 1977 edition does not. So finding a NIB FN action 35-some years after they stopped making them is a matter of luck more than anything else and if the seller is at all knowledgeable it will likely cost you one or more limbs - his pick. :-)

Jlin222,

Welcome to the Campfire!

A serious Mauser expert and collector I knew liked to say what made a Mauser a Mauser is as follows...jim

"This poses an interesting dilemma as the Mauser came in what can be seen as the complete reliable package.
Three features define the Model 98 ( actually the model 92 and what followed after.
1. Dual opposing front bolting lugs that bolt into a enclosed ring under the front bridge. This is important as at the time of design most rifles were rear bolting. In fact this was a radical departure in design at the time.
2. The sprung extractor claw with opened boltface allowing for controlled feeding and extraction. This piece of steel on the side of the bolt was / is most ingenious in it's function and operation. We must not forget the original rifles were not sporters or DG rifles but were made as infantry weapons and in this role the Mauser lead a revolution in gunmaking.
3. The most important feature of the Mauser,and here most modern factory guns fall flat is the Case specific magazine box
Mauser understood the science of making magazine boxes and followers, this is seen by many as the key to this rifles success.
The followers all had a "sloppy fit" and this coupled with the exact dimension for specific cases make the rifles what they are, absolutely reliable. ( only when the rules of this feature are met though ! : many custom and factory guns are built on the mauser principles but due to cost omit or overlook the magazine box issue and then they fail)
Now if we look at CZ and their ZKK and 550 series rifles they have a one size fits all mag box for the magnum. This may work for some cases but not for all and imo this is why some work and some fail."

Thanks for the welcome, Grasshopper and HunterJim!

That's a very interesting point on the CZ and ZKK magazines, HunterJim. I haven't seen anything specific on that but I wouldn't be surprised, since that sort of detail seems to be exactly the sort of thing that would get dropped, either as a cost cutting measure or out of simple ignorance. The kind of thing that gets lost as institutional memory fades - i.e. the stuff that wasn't written down before the old timers get fired (because they were paid "too much") or retire - and then people realize the stuff doesn't work as well any more.

One of the most interesting sections in Speed, Schmid and Herrmann's book is only a couple pages long - it gives the measurements for the magazine boxes for original Mauser sporters for the different cartridges chambered. In some cases the difference is only fractions of a millimeter. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that there were different measurements for the receiver feed rails as well, depending on the cartridge.

I would like to know who the idiot is that rates the Zastava action lower in quality? Good grief, the workmanship polishing and bluing is top drawer. Zavodi Crvena Zastava is just about the oldest foundry in the world.....They made millions of first rate Mauser Actions......Millions! To say their actions are low quality is ludicrous. Regards, Rick.

And to think I passed up a brand new FN commercial action just the other day!!!! I know, I'm a moron!

This has been a VERY good and informative thread! Thanks to all for their contributions! Excellent read even to one addicted to the 98 action as myself....

I've noticed that Classic arms currently has a lot of VZ24's available in, they say, very nice condition, if one is interested in an action....

http://www.classicarms.us/firearms.htm

Just scroll down thru the Schmidt-Rubins & etc. to find them.

Kaywoodie

I have been buying and using 1908 Brazilian mausers this last year I have found them as complete rifles for $100.00 a pop from a well known distributor. So far they have all been DWM's and all have been very clean with no pitting.

Hi, Rick,

RE: the quality of the Zastava. Sorry if my conclusions about the quality upset you.

They are based on several sources, such as statements in Frank de Haas' book such as, "My first Mark X action was poorly polished. The floorplate was not level and smooth - it has several flat spots which can be felt and seen, as if extra polishing was done to remove deep tool marks from these places. The floorplate and the guard were polished separately instead of together, leaving the edges of the hinge joint rounded. The bolt-stop and the bolt-stop spring were also polished separately on a soft polishing wheel and their rounded edges certainly look out of place on a "custom" action. ...the sight-mounting screw holes are dished and the edges of the left receiver wall are rounded. ....the polishing was inexpertly done."

There is also an uncredited article from "African Sporting Gazette" titled, "Reigning Supreme - FN�s great action in increasing demand," which stated, "Between the millions of military actions and the tiny precious supply of commercial Oberndorfs lies a somewhat neglected area: commercial actions made elsewhere. Some were pretty questionable, such as certain periods from the Zastava plant in Yugoslavia, which produced the Mark X. Some of these were so roughly made as to be unsalvageable for a fine custom rifle, and many gunmakers flatly refuse to work on them.

Other commercial actions, however, were every bit as good as the German Oberndorfs, DWMs, and Sauers. These include actions made at the Czech Brno plant, and those made at Fabrique Nationale d�Armes de Guerre � FN � in Li�ge, Belgium."

Then there's an article by Don Heath, editor of "African Hunter", titled "Professional Hunter Proficiency Exam", which describes experiences with various heavy rifles in the yearly Zimbabwe Rifa Professional Hunter and Guides training/refresher course, and the actual proficiency exam itself. Here's what he says about the Interarms Mk X: "Apart from the fact that the barrels are soft and wear out very quickly, these are intrinsically sound rifles that are simply shoddily put together. They are famed for springing the magazine floor plate open and dumping the contents on the firer�s feet. Never seen one that wouldn�t feed reliably though, and with a little bit of gun smithing to make the safety catch more positive so that it doesn�t get accidentally swept on as the bolt is opened (or accidentally knocked off in the bush) and the stock properly bedded to cure the �magazine dump�� they can be made into very workable rifles. They are though, very definitely rifles that you take first to your gunsmith and only then into the bush as the two students at Rifa discovered."

In contrast here is what he said about original Mauser and FN rifles: "The remainder of the field was made up of Mauser actioned rifles. The original Mauser in .404 and the FN in .458 worked great, as expected. The trouble for a learner Hunter or Guide is that these makes are hard to come by. Original Mausers are beginning to wear out, and apart from .404 and 9.3x62, most are chambered for rounds unsuitable for serious hunting [note: this is in the context of a dangerous game rifle]. As soon as you see a Mauser chambered in .458 or .375 you know that it is a conversion (see my comments on custom rifles below). FNs are seldom seen on the second hand market. They represent the peak in the Mauser rifle�s development, and those lucky enough to own one seldom find a reason good enough to sell it."

So, while you have had good experiences with the Zastava, it appears that has not always been the case.

I am a Mauser guy as well and find this thread a mine of imformation. Have built on both ex mil FN Colombian and 1908 DWM and they are both superb actions. Even the bottom metal cleaned up nice with a little re-contouring and a button release built into the floor plate.

Von Gruff.

I am a Mauser nut (you can tell from my screen name...) but I think building a precision shooter on Mauser basis may not be cost effective any more. One thing not mentioned by previous posts is long lock time and high inertia of the firing pin. The other issue is the availability of quality trigger. I mean, a trigger comparable to jewel or Savage Shooter's Supply delightful 10oz trigger. But depending on what you want the gun for, it may or may not be a problem. The bottom line is, with all monies spent on accuryzing, new trigger, firing pin asembly, making cycling smoother etc. etc. you may be better off buying modern commercial action or whole rifle. Small example: A friend of mine decided to have a build of 6.5x55mm long range rig on FN basis (he already had the action). After all blueprinting surgery and rebluing, with Lilja barrel and very nice wood, it costed him over $1200. About the same time his gun was done, I bought all factory Tikka off GB in the same caliber, just under $600. Quite honestly, Tikka still has the smoothest action and both guns shoot with exact same accuracy.

There is no question that there are actions that are more cost effective, and have individual points of superiority compared to the Mauser.

However, consider that the Mauser was designed to be the safest, strongest, most reliable action, given the technology 100+ years ago - in other words, the BEST. Not that cost was not a consideration, it always is - but not the primary one.

Most modern actions, are still modeled on the Mauser prototype of dual opposed forward locking lugs, but designed to be CHEAPER TO BUILD. For specialized purposes such as benchrest, other actions have long ago supplanted the Mauser, but it is remarkable that for the highest grade sporting rifles, the most expensive custom actions are the Granite Mountain, Satterlee, etc. - basically blue-printed Mausers.

Jlin222, your 1st 7 posts have been an informative and entertianing read. I personally still don't consider a CZ 550 a mauser though There isn't a single part on either one that's interchangable without a lathe or mill. The features you mentioned can be found on many actions that don't qualify either.

One thing I would like to add to what you said about the Zastavia actions. While I agree whole hartedly with your commnets on quality. The actions do clean up very nicely and are decent actions for custom builds. If I was left handed and wanted a custom Mauser I would buy one without hesitation. I'm using one of thier "mini" actions for a pretty cool custom .223 that'll probably be the nicest rifle I'll ever own.

Terry

Terry,

Having lurked here for a while I have great respect for you and many of the other posters. I looked over a CZ but I've never tried interchanging parts, so I take your point. I've only got two Mausers of my own, an FN and a Brno 21H ( which I got in part because of some of your posts) and I like them both a lot. I think it's an interesting discussion anyway.

I'm not trying to knock the Zastava - de Haas, who certainly has a lot more real experience than me, did say he thought they were basically sound, and it sounds like they have had good periods and not so good ones.

I've seen the progress reports on your mini-action and am looking forward to your posting when it is completed - looks like it will be a real beauty! I've got an early .222 Sako L46 that is quite nice, but surely not as nice as yours will be.

Terry, I quite agree on the above quote. That said, however, I do consider the CZ action a Mauser DERIVATIVE the same as I consider the M-70 (I believe one would normally think of the M-70 as an imporved M-54), 1903 Sprg, and the Husqvarna. Even tho' parts don't interchange for the most part... One can definitely see the influence on the design. If I'm not mistaken, the US govermment paid royalities to Mauser for the design of the 1903. Likely by the time the Husky action came along, the patents had expired.

Edw

De Haas was spot on, I just wanted to say they can be cleaned up. If there is a Zastavia and F.N. action on the table, I'm going to pick up the F.N. everytime.

Terry

Your criteria of smooth bolt, gas handling ability and strength have commerecial FN 98 written all over them. You can find them for $400, but you may have to break down an existing rifle to get one. I�d drop the 93�s, 96�s and Santa Barbaras.

Under most circumstances, I wouldn�t bother with a military 98, since you�ll spend 2-3x the cost of a commercial action to make it anywhere as nice. The exception is when you�re building a new rifle in the chambering for which that action was originally chambered. Mauser magazine boxes and feed lips are set up for a specific cartridge, and may not feed smoothly with something else. Getting them adjusted properly can be extremely expensive, so if you decide to build a 7x57, it might be worth starting with a military 98 that was built in 7x57. This also makes a good case for building a custom 30/06 on a commercial that was originally a 30/06.

The H&H cartridges can be a problem in a standard 98, since the magazine box has to be lengthened for them to fit. That also means shortening the feed ramp, which some people feel reduces the action�s strength. It�s probably best to go with a true magnumn-length action for them. That said, various factories have built 375�s on standard 98 actions over the years, so this is probably more of an issue in a conversion done by someone who may not have known what he was doing.

A Kuhnhausen Mauser Shop Manual will have enough details to keep your head spinning for months as you plan this project. Brownell�s probably has them.


Okie John

Jlin222 is smack-on regarding the Zastava Mark X; it's crude in comparison to FN or many of the other of the best Mausers (1909 Argentine, Oberndorf, the better VZ-24s, and others). As Mule Deer noted above, the Mark Xs can be cleaned up, but they were not manufactured to the same standards as these others.

Many/maybe most of the 1909 Argentines were a bit soft, are often treated to hardening in a custom project. The '09 floorplate is indeed a fine piece of work, suitable with minor gunsmithing for the finest in a custom rifle (I'd argue better than the replacement stuff in that the floorplate does not cover the inletting which allows a top drawer stocker to further showcase precise inletting).