Filler for wood checks and voids - 03/16/02
Sitka (et al)- See you're back in the world again Sitka. Here's something you might have occasion to try. A fellow brought me a repro Husqvarna stock to finish up. You know the kind- almost completely to dimension , usually too much wood removed? Hate them. Anyhow this piece of wood had in inclusion in the forend of either dark soft wood or a bit of bark. It was either remove it and put in an inlay or try to toughen it up. I've used epoxies in the past for this but it's usually harder than the wood and when you're sanding the adjacent wood wants to wear away faster than the epoxy. On my rodbuilding bench I had a bottle of a rod winding finish sold by Pacific Bay. This stuff gives a polymer type finish but you use it straight out of the bottle. It's also thinner than the two-part polymers so it penetrates well . To end this, 4 coats of this and the soft spot was now firmed up and as it had flaked away from the surrounding solid wood it was also above surface level. I preheated the area with a heat gun and the wood just sucked the stuff in.
<br>A bit of wet sanding and voila it now just looks like a darker bit of grain. I think when the rest of the stock is finished it will blend right in.Benefit was the sanding rate is very similar to the solid wood so it levelled out well. I suspect it will also work well for refinishing where you want to build up a depression (bump mark) in areas that preclude sanding them out such as along the thin edges of some forends, adjacent to checkering etc.
<br>besto
<br>A bit of wet sanding and voila it now just looks like a darker bit of grain. I think when the rest of the stock is finished it will blend right in.Benefit was the sanding rate is very similar to the solid wood so it levelled out well. I suspect it will also work well for refinishing where you want to build up a depression (bump mark) in areas that preclude sanding them out such as along the thin edges of some forends, adjacent to checkering etc.
<br>besto