6 Creedmoor...This will be like a trivia post...details to follow.

The GAP got the clap!!!

Loose screw

Bases tight, rings tight, action screws tight, screw for front sight base not touching barrel threads...

Tried two different scopes...mounted a third last night but got snowed out today.

It started out with always throwing a flier, then it progressed to obvious double groups. Now it is simply stringing horizontal...

Load data ?

Pic 1&2 = 41.3 of H4350 with 105 Scenar.

Pic 3 = 41.6 of H4350 and 105 Berger.

Pic 4 = 42.2 of H4350 and 105 Berger (recommended load)

Action screws torqued to 55 in lbs per builder.

Just read back through your build thread. Is the action bedded? You didn't mention that in the earlier tread that I quickly scanned through

I bedded it. I was getting double 5 shot groups, 2-3 and swapped scopes. Same results. I then sent to builder for bedding so I could get their 1/2MOA accuracy guarantee. Reinstalled scope #2 and hit the range. Getting schit like this now.

Find it hard to believe it is two bad scopes...

Bedding was my first thought.

Barrel Freefloated? How far off the lands with the berger? Hybrids?VLD?

DC, do you know the answer or are you looking for the answer? If you know, quit holding out!

What scopes were on it?

If shooting over flags adjust seating depth

haha. I have no F'n idea.

Scope 1 was Burris 3-9 C4.

Scope 2 was Kahles Helia 4-12.

I was saving up for a Nightforce 5.5-22, but then lost my job and wife served me with divorce. That being said, this gun doesn't deserve a Nightforce at this rate.

I am going to try scope #3, hopefully tomorrow...

Specs:

M700, trued/recut
Timney trigger
McMillan stock.
Bedded and pillars installed by builder.
Bartlein 7.5 twist in Remington magnum contour.

Tried TPS rings, EGW base, Burris bases, Burris Signatures. Currently wearing Burris signatures and bases, and installed Zeiss Conquest. Zeiss was on 338 Win mag and was tested and functioning correctly last week. Hated to pull it, but don't have other options.

DC, sorry to hear of the hard times. Hang in there man.

At least the rifle is something to focus on!

Can be any number of things.

Usually operator "error". How much force you hold gun with in your shoulder, trigger squeeze, parallax, etc.

Can be bullet runout, bedding, off center bore, and believe it or not, seating depth......

I would try a different set of dies.

Dink

They suck. What more do you want to know??

Looks like you have a spot in your barrel that is building copper and it clears it's self once in a while and throws bullets out of the group when that little copper chunk comes loose. Just a guess but I have had the same thing happen before thought I was going to lose my fn mind trying to figure it out. Bore scope showed a small peice of riffling missing and a build up of copper in the gap a few more shots and the spot was gone and smeared up the bore.

Did you eliminate the possibility of a magbox or trigger binding?

Fred, you might be onto something...

Carl, box is free floated in standard BDL configuration. Bottom metal was also bedded.

Run out on my handloads is only hovering around .001-.0015".

Just loaded 20 more rounds, going to shoot tomorrow. Like I said prior...could be scope(s) but Burris is on another gun now and shooting fine. Kahles could be the question mark.

Too much coffee...

This is definitely a gun issue.

When a Ruger 338 win mag sittng in skeleton stock out shoots a 6mm set up for accuracy, you know something is wrong in this world.

Ship it back!!

Dog, how many rounds have been through this rig?

Small lead-sled or bench movement right/left.

seating depth. it's telling you it's damn close but not quite. try seating out just a bit more.

Do you have a bore scope. I would love to know when you fine out.

was the flyer always the same shot? Like 1st shot 2" off the next four grouped together?

Flier varied.

Swapped scope, and retorqued everything. Shot this, not great but alittle better: (still not getting the 1/2 MOA though, black dot is 3/4")

Shoot the Tikka to confirm it's not you.....

Push the bullet back into the case a few thou at a time. It will snug up. Bergers are made on 3 different dies. Check the length (base to ogive) and seat accordingly. What bag set up are you using?

Start 10 percent low powder and kissing or fitting mag box which ever works. Work up the powder until the vertical is out. Move the bullet away from the lands 3 tho at a time until the horizontal is out. Quarter minute gun or 2 Minute gun groups should be uniform. If I shot that last group and new I was solid. I would bump a 1/10th or 2 more powder and seat 3thou deeper. Patience and listen to what the gun is telling you. Your close, stay at it, that sucker wants to shoot.

Had one with the same problem where the gunsmith said the barrel was neutral bedded the whole length. Went through load after load and it shot horizontal double groups. The rifle about made me crazy getting it to group. I prefer a rifle that will shoot almost anything well and load changes are for refining accuracy rather than finding accuracy.

Free floating didn't help. I bedded the tip and finally cut the barrel back two inches and recrowned. All problems went away.

Scope!!!!

I would get away from the pointy bullets and try some BTs just to see...I think it is a seating depth issue...but you got to know the gun will shoot....it is guaranteed so you can send it back....

Clean barrel..?

Clean barrel..?

Dont want to hijack the thread, anybody mind if I throw up a pic for your guys diagnosis on a rifle giving me fits?

I'd try a few more bullets just to check things out. I've had rifles shoot terribly with some styles while really liking other styles.

No objections so here goes.......

.223 AI PN #2 contour on a 700 action in a McM Classic bedded by me (which I'm thinking is the issue as I've looked at everything else).

The three groups were shot last night at 200 yards, load is-

Formed Lapua case
CCI BR-4
27.0 RL-15
Sierra 65 SBT kissing the lands

I get the same two in one out with 75 AMAX as well.

Scope has been swapped, screws are tight, good trigger, bench technique is solid, went so far as to shoot it with the mag assembly removed to check for binding, 45 inch pounds on the action screws, front sight base screw not bottoming out. I'm at a loss on this one........

I've tried Hornady 105 BTHP, the 105 Scenar, the 105 Berger Hybrid, and the 95 Ballistic tip. Three primers, three scopes...All give me lackluster results.

What is your twist. Regardless, in your case I would say the problem is Pacnor, haha.

1/8 twist

Nothing from nobody...........?

have you tried different scopes and different powder?

I pulled my scope, cleaned gun, and buried it deep into the safe. I'm over it.

My dad has a Hi-Wall in 225 Winchester that did that exact thing. I went through over 150 bullets of different types, different powder, primers. scopes and nothing seemed to help.

I sent the barrel back to Douglas, they kept it and sent a new contoured blank, it now shoot nice round 3/4" groups.

Sure not saying that is it but maybe?

Is there bedding under the shank? I fought my 6x45 for a bit. After nipping the start at the fn start list, I bedded it with a float all the way to the lug and tip pressure and it finally tightened up. MR contour.

Don't know if it was just my lucky day or not, but no more bedding under shank for my stuff.

Dogcatcher-

Different scopes, bullets and powder have all been tried. I'm over this siht too, wont bury it though, just rebarrel and try and start fresh.

16 Bore-

Yes there is bedding under the shank, this barrel has a 1" shank, bedded the full length of it. Next stop is the Dremel and a re do of the bedding .

I feel your pain. Easy to see why so many damn Tikkas get bought. Seems Chad Dixon is a fan of bedding only the lug and no shank. FWIW.

Bedding always seems to get monkeyed, yet I've never seen a tutorial/thread worth a schit to read about it. Trial and error...and Dremel. .

I would offer this observation for your consideration. I have alot of custom rifles as well as factory rifles and have been in your situation before. Check to see if the bolt handle is touching the stock. Secondly and most important, the crown may not be as perfect as it looks. we use a Manson crowning tool with expandable mandrels or pilots and find that even rifles that cost $3000 to $4000 dollars were improved by recrowning with an 11 degree crown. Alot of barrels sre drilled off center and are not exactly round . It can be done in 10 minutes on the gun. The gun smiths around here are using them to get a concentric crown. We have never seen a lack of improvement.

Funny you mention Tikka, one of the most accurate rifles I own is an old 595 in .243, the thing is so accurate its ridiculous. Bought it some years back as a beater, I've wrestled with the idea of dropping it into a McM and making something out of it, 1/10 twist rate and mag confines always puts an end to those thoughts though. If I could find one of the older T3's with the 8 twist in .223 I have a feeling a lot of the more expensive rifles I own would find there way to the back of the safe......

That reminds me. Check that the front action screw isn't hitting bolt head. Sharpie it up and open/close the bolt a few times. Base screws while you're at it.


Ask me how I know.....

I have a McMillan for a Tikka sitting in my safe right now. I'm done with the custom gun game of roulette. I'm thinking a 7 mag would fit the stock nicely.

My current Tikka's 3-shot group at 600 yards:



My $3000 custom's group at 100 yards:

$268.00 Ruger American is starting to look tempting as a stopgap while I fiddle with the 3 customs and a Montana that are frustrating me currently, damn near disposable at that price with no custom rifle wait time..........

Wont swear off building just yet, but I think I'm done with Montanas, I'm 1 for 3 there and at $1200.00 I think I can do better, blasphemy I know.....

What's up with your Montana's?

75 HPBT at 200 yards



65 Gameking showed great promise the other day, need to see if it can repeat it now. Not ready to quit on this one yet, had another .223 that got tripped though, every trick ever suggested has been done to both.

Have a straight out of the box .308 that is sub MOA with a half dozen loads.

Just getting tired of laying down $1200 to play roulette with a rifle. They all need a little tweaking the Kimbers seem to have become a full time job for me, they're not fun anymore, I want to shoot not tweak.........

I feel your pain. I've got a 270WSM in the safe that I haven't even touched yet. Been fighting another rig as of late, and not in the mood to start another.

eric, I think you have a bad barrel. How big is that orange dot?

2"orange circle or a 2.9" vertical group at 200 yards.

Haven't given up on this one yet though, 5 shot group at 100 with 65 Gameking, gonna see how it does at 200. Maybe take the bedding out from under the shank or full length bed if that doesn't work

Lack of shooter skill. Pretty obvious since you are the nut behind the butt...

Laughing, you hitting the bottle up and dredging up old threads or what ?

Tanner

O'douls makes him dumber than usual.

Lousy Indian?

Tanner, you have to remember...I only shoot half a box a year. Practicing for my first deer hunt.


PS...to the others not named BSA1917douche: the barrel company couldn't get this gun to shoot either. They replaced the barrel and provided all the gunsmithing free of charge.

So still a mystery. That sucks. Crazy.

No mystery, bad barrel. Gun is now a hammer.

That's a much better outcome. I read your post to mean that after replacing the barrel, the barrel Co. couldn't get it to shoot.

Sorry for the confusion. They had me ship them the complete rifle. Their staff all took turns shooting it, even put it into a chassis with no luck. They swapped the barrel and voila. That is all I know. They were very helpful in the process.

Try something on your Kimber - make sure a doubled up dollar bill will easily float down the barrel channel. My 257 was giving me fits. After the obligatory mag box, bedding, etc tweaks, it was still shooting 2-3" groups. I surmised the barrel was still hitting the channel during recoil. The barrel channel was free floated but not as much as it should have been. I took a bit more from the channel. The other thing I did was put a towel under the gun on the front sand bag. Presto 1" groups at 100 yards with Nosler Partitions - and a 0.100" jump to L&G (mag box confines).

Or sell all your Kimber MT to me for $500........... <G>

I had one go wonky on me. I had done all the work and had shot it into the .2's.....but just haaaad to index the barrel another. 001" to sleep well.

I did so and the rifle shot poorly. I chased down everything possible right down to the chamber runout. I put it back together and the rifle tipped over and made a funny noise. I whacked it with a rawhide mallet and I found that one of my Warne rings was cracked. I couldn't see it but I could hear it. When I tore the scope down it was obvious.

Now I smack them all with a rawhide and listen.

Glad you found your culprit and it was cheap.

It wasn't cheap!

Got gun back, didn't shoot. I called gunsmith and was told since I didn't bed it, I didn't qualify for the fictitious 1/2 MOA Guarantee.

I shipped gun back on my dime and wasted money on bedding thinking I would now get the guarantee. Didn't work, gun still didn't shoot. Gunsmith did not believe me.

I then had one of their team shooters try it. He could not get gun to shoot either. It was then shipped back to gunsmith who told me I would be getting a new barrel. 6 months later I called and asked the status. They said they were waiting on a new barrel. Finally got a call and they said the culprit was a crooked recoil lug and I wouldn't be getting a new barrel. Told me the gun was fixed and it now shot "one hole."

I received gun again, the barrel was now polished. I shipped gun back to get the original finish put back on.

Got gun back, still didn't shoot. Gunsmith claimed I did not know how to shoot, and the accuracy guarantee was not his problem. I asked him to buy the gun off me for a giant loss then. He declined and told me to send it to the barrel maker who would be able to shoot it because they were all experienced rifleman, unlike myself.

I shipped it to barrel maker. They boasted that surely they could make it shoot. After a couple weeks, they called back and said "gun doesn't shoot." My reply "I know, that is what I have been saying!"

They FINALLY re-barreled it, and now it shoots.

I lost almost two years, and an estimated $500 in bedding and shipping fees for a simple re-barrel!

Lesson learned...don't deal with rock-star gunsmiths who have fancy websites and run around in tactical gear playing army on the weekends.

You're gun had the CLAP....................

LOL

Does said gunsmith have a website you can share? Would hate to see someone have to learn the same lesson.

Same question from me........?

After having been through the same as Dogcatcher223 more than my share of times, I decided never again. Since my quests were the ultimate commercial rifle in 280 Remington & 300 WSM I then found that you just can't get what you want when buying commercial. So, to the custom shop I went.

Got exactly what I wanted, have had zero problems working up loads, the gun is tolerant of nearly anything I run through it, both are highly accurate, weigh exactly what I want them to weigh, give repeatable, dependable results at the range & afield & are a pleasure to carry.

I now have what I need & want. And, I did not have to settle for anything less. If I knew at 20 years of age what I know now, I would have bit the bullet, had a custom built then and been done with it.

NAME HIM please.
Obviously it wasn't his work that was bad. He was dealing with a bad part. The part manufacture stood behind their product, the installer did not.
Naming him/her is not a knock on the quality of work - just the integrity of the PERSON doing the work.

In fairness to the Rock Star Gunsmith, was not his only job initially to install the barrel on an action trued by someone else, a $290 job?