I have a Remington 700 in 300 WM that I might rebarrel to 28 Nosler. What changes will I need to my Remington 700 action to make it feed/function correctly ? Mag box, follower ?

I had a 7 Wby rebarreled to 7 Dakota and it required no changes at all to feed rails or bolt face, functioned well. I don't reckon the 28 Nosler is much different than the 7 Dakota.

I had two 7RM 700 BDLs converted to 26 Nosler, one for me, one for my hunting bud.

The fat, Nosler round would not pass thru the action rails on either 700, but would easily pass thru the rail of a Magnum M-70. Go figure. The bolt face was OK.

These 700s required a fair amount of action work to feed the Nosler round, including a RUM mag box with "windows" for the fatter round.

The 28 Nosler should be about the same.

DF

Open the rails
I used a 700 in 7mm
It will feed 1 from the mag fine ... put the 2nd round in the mag and top round will kick up........
Open the rails up and it works fine with 2 down

With the RUM box, you can squeeze three down, or use 2 comfortably.

DF


Edited to answer OP's question about the follower.

Std. mag follower works. No change to 7RM M-700 follower with 26 Nos conversion.

So the follower I have from my 300 WM will work then.

It should.

The 7RM follower works in the 26 Nos.

DF

It won't bother me to change out a mag box or follower.....I just don't want to be milling the action (opening feed rails) so that it becomes a permanent Ultra Mag action.

My M-70 Magnum action will pass a 26 Nos round thru the rails without a problem. But, I've read that CRF can be harder to adapt than Push Feed.

I'd suggest a discussion with your smith.

DF

Sounds like a lot of work and a PITA. Why not just buy a Nosler rifle?

If you already have the action, as in a shot out 7RM, .300WM, etc., it's less expensive to add a $600 premium barrel than buy a Nosler rifle.

Although they're a lot of gun for the buck, us "do it your self" types like to do it ourselves...

For example, I bought this 7RM BDL from my gunsmith for $400. It had smoke damage from a fire, but didn't get hot enough to char the wood, so the metal temper wasn't affected. The toxic smoke had corroded the barrel beyond repair. Add $600 for the Shilen Match #2, pillared and glassed by me (I work cheap), I have a half MOA 26 Nosler. Actually spent a few more bucks getting the action tweaked for the fat Nosler round, but still way less than a Nosler and I'm not sure Nosler puts as good a barrel on their guns.

I couldn't move the trigger adjustment screws, so I picked up a Timney 510 on Ebay, delivered for $108. This new Timney blocks the trigger and sear, not just the sear, reportedly for consistency in pull. It's set at 2 1/4 #'s.

I already had the Z3 4-12x50 BT, moved it from another gun to this one where it's likely to stay.

DF





RUM SS box with windows.


Sharpie marked yardages on the BT aluminum discs.

DF: RD has plenty of money....

That's one thing we do very well here on the Fire, help fellow Loonies spend money...

And, often it doesn't take but a small push...

DF

The Nosler rifle with a good stock, non-B&C that is, is somewhere in the neighborhood of $2500 I believe.

The above 26 Nosler, similar set up for a 28 Nosler, set me back around $1,400.

I'd be surprised if the $2,500 Nosler would/could out shoot it.

DF

Barrel it and see if it will work then if not modify the feed rails

Cases must pass between rails to get into mag box. Don't need it barreled to figure that one out.

Feeding after fitting the barrel may require some tweaking. Sharp shouldered cases don't generally feed as slick as the old tapered .300 H&H and .375 H&H. Those were made to feed slick and they do. With some work, sharp shouldered cases can function smoothly.

DF

Geez....I guess it IS easier and cheaper to get a Rem 700 in 7RM and punch it to Mashburn. No feeding/modifications to the action and cheaper brass to boot.

But about 100-150 fps less velocity......

No wonder rifle people are crazy.

Probably.

Definitely no action work needed.

Just depends if one wants to form brass or buy it ready to go.

The Mashburn is definitely an interesting proposition.

DF

Nosler rifle in 28 Nosler for $1799 at the Scheels store in Lincoln. I'd probably just keep shooting my 7mm Remington with a long throat.

Yup. There's that.

Plus, RD already has a perfectly good 280AI and a nice 300 WM. Why even bother with a bigger 7mm?

Then you may not want to do the 28 Nosler.

As per our PM, I'm sending you some 26 Nosler cases to see which actions will allow passage thru their rails. 28 and 26 Nosler, as you know, share the same case.

Bob makes a good point about the Mashburn being much easier to adapt to a std. mag. 700, no action alterations needed. But, you gotta form brass, whereas the 28 Nosler brass is high quality, ready to go, but very pricey.

I complained in the past about the price of Wby brass, even went to the trouble of converting fifty cent .25-06 brass to buck fifty .240 Wby. But now I have a 26 Nosler that uses two buck brass. Go figure that one...

DF


Edited to add, your 700 will become an Ultra Mag 700 after adaptation to the 28 Nosler, no way around it. Starting with an Ultra Mag donor is an option. I built a .404J using a M-70 Classic .300 RUM donor. That action would be a good candidate for the 28 Nosler with little or no action work needed. If it'll feed a RUM, it'll feed a Nosler. Same for an Ultra Mag 700 donor.

Always being practical.

Friend just sent back a 48 26 Nosler rifle. Guaranteed 1" with factory loads, produced 4". Swapped scopes, no better. Tried handloads, gained a little but not much. Sometimes you cant win.

Back in 1990 when I first started using it, the STW was the easy way to go fast with a 7mm or 6 point five. Its still pretty darn easy.

You saying Bob needs to hang up his Loony credentials...

"Practical" and Loony don't necessarily go together...

That's almost as bad as the four letter word, "NEED".

Man I hate that word...

To me, it's like fingernails on a blackboard, terrible racket.

DF

A magnum model 70 crf action will require a 300 rum follower and mag box, which is getting hard to find now.

Brownell's doesn't have those parts?

DF

No, they are old USRAC parts.

You can always buy the 7mm Mashburn Safariman has for sale.

7mm STW and 28 Nosler are awful close.

Talked to McWhorter last week and he said they still build quite a few STWs, prob 2 of 5 of their customs are STWs. Wouldn't have thought the demand was that high since you don't hear about them that often anymore. Robert Gradous is very fond of the STW as well, hence my decision to build one recently.

STW brass is cheaper...

To kind of pile on...I've been seriously contemplating the 7 Mashburn and the 28 Nosler. I have a push feed M70 7mag with a loose spot in the bore. It shoots OK but I thought it would be a fine candidate. I also have a very nice 300Win M700 BDL, but it shoots good and I'd hate to permanently modify it if going to 28 Nosler.

So if I've understood correctly, my pushfeed M70 shouldn't need any modification to go to Mashburn or 28Nos? I'm thinking about a 27-28" tube with Light Palma or slightly lighter profile. I have a heavy laminated target stock I'm going to trim down a bit that should soak up recoil without a brake on the barrel.

I think I'm leaning towards the 7 Mash but need to look into die and reamer availability. I haven't looked too deep yet, but kind of see it being a wash between the cheaper brass but more costly and rare dies and reamer of the 7 Mash versus $2 brass but fairly available 28 Nosler dies and reamer, especially as more of them are built. Forming brass doesn't scare me. I haven't worked much with belted cases, is anyone needing to use those collet dies that size that last little bit before the belt? That would be an additional cost unless I built one myself.

I would consider that nice one Safariman has for sale but I can't seem to connect with him...

Push feed M-70's, IMO, are a real sleeper. If the rails are like my M-70 .375 H&H SS Classic, the Nosler cases will pass between the rails easily with room to spare. I'd use that action for a Nosler build, if that was my choice.

If a M-70 RUM box is hard to find, you can cut windows in that one for the same effect.

I've used the Larry Willis body die for belted mag cases and it does work. It has a go/no-go gauge to let you know if a case needs sizing.

DF

I bought a stainless 700 sps rum with a rifle basics trigger in it for under $500. I have a 8.75" twist rock barrel on hand and 100 28 nosler brass. Now that hunting season is winding down I need to find a smith to chamber it.

I figure I'll save myself some extra work by just starting with a rum action. It's been pretty easy to find used ones around here.

Bb

I've had one for awhile, and have gotten some good use out of it. Having said that; almost all of the use was solving man-made and odd-ball problems.The main reason that I got it was I had a sizeable pile of .257 Weatherby brass that had been fired in a rifle I no longer had. Resizing it in a FL die wouldn't get it into my remaining .257. The Willis tool saved enough brass to pay for itself the first day. Other instances were a number of rifles that were cut with a non Saami reamer with a reduced base. In return for no discernible advantage, it opened up a situation where the chamber was smaller than typical reloading dies. The collet kept me in the game until I rechambered them in disgust. Another is chambers that are cut so disgustingly over size that when sizing there is a lot of brass that has to go somewhere, and it could go where a die won't reach. This is the principal use given in the dies promotion.

In regular, non oddball use a reloader can get along just fine without ever have even heard of the Willis die and never miss a beat. The situations where it is useful aren't particularly common, and for the most part you can ignore the belt.

Yep, for sure.

DF

I kinda figured it was like that. So far I haven't seen any issues with my 300 Win but I've picked up brass from the range that after sizing wouldn't go into my chamber easily. They had insanely flat primers though. Looking forward to playing with one of these two cartridges next year.

A 300 WM case lubed up with some imperial sizeing die wax and one stoke into a 7mm Mashburn die is about all the case forming your going to need to do, to get a net shape case.
Its that simple.
I have never had a issue with sizing just ahead of the belt.At least not with my Mashburn.
If you have a problem with tight cases.A few .001s off the face of your shell holder will typically solve that problem allowing the case to go farther into the die
Redding sells shell holders in sets with different sizes just for that type of issue.
I run a load of H1000 and a 168 Berger classic hunting bullet.For deer.
It almost matches my bench guns for accuracy....
dave

I believe the Redding shell holder sets are in increments of how much less the case goes into the die.

Someone buys a RUM rifle based on hype and advertising, then finds out it's a lot more gun than he can handle, or imagined. He gets tired of paying a ransom for ammo, ends up selling a slightly used gun.

Should be some fairly good deals on the used gun market, at gun shows, on line, etc.

DF

I see more than a few right here in the classified's.

Pick up a slightly used RUM for $600 or so, fit a $600 premium barrel and you have a $1,200 28 Nosler, probably with a better barrel than the Nosler rifle.

More gun, less money.

DF

Here you go. SS action for $388.

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/36_57_981/products_id/2388

Yep.

I got used BDL bottom metal for my recent 6.5 Creedmoor project for $50 here on the Fire.

With spring replacement the new Remington trigger can be used. Not a Timney but useable with some tweaking.

Stocky has a good selection of stocks at all price ranges.

Sounds like an ongoing project to me...

DF

I found the bottom metal that I'll use on this rig that I bought on the Campfire classified's that was originally blued but I wanted something to match up with the SS action so I sent it off to Robar for a NP3 finish that should make it corrosion proof. These are heavier than I thought, but are beautifully finished by Williams. Pretty much the same as a Sunny Hill stainless unit, but Williams doesn't make them in stainless or even better yet if they made it in aluminum. I've made up my mind that I'm not going to butcher up my Custom Shop African Plains Rifle in 300 WM that is extremely accurate. I'm in no rush, so I spoke with Mike Lee at Defiance Machine as I've always wanted a custom clone 700 and the Defiance Rebel, I think, is one of the very best. The options are endless and you can get a mod 70 type 3 pos safety now so I might as well go all in.

This is the refinished Williams unit.

William bottom metal is top quality.

Here's the Williams in an Echols Legend, M-70 RUM that became a .404J. Note how well the Legend is inletted for drop in fit.

DF

Only knuckleheads like you and me appreciate these tiny little details like bottom metal fit and appearance and scope mount fitting as well. I have a Sunny Hill unit on my Remington CS African Plains Rifle which is slightly more streamlined as the Williams piece. I remember Echols using the Williams BM (with a few trick moves to install I'm sure) on the Legend rifle.

That just means we're genuine, certified Loonies, not posers or wannabes...

DF

No Imagination or Pretend when building something that's right from the start.

There is a somewhat easier solution to salvaged brass range pickups, at least when it works. Usually it does.

If you get a .300 Win small base die it will almost always reduce the oversized case enough to chamber in any rifle. The utility doesn't end there; if you take the decapping/expander rod out you can put the base squeeze on .257 Weatherby,.270 Weatherby, .264 Win, and 7mm Rem mag as well.It effectively turns it into an improvised body die. It won't work on .338 Win, or any of the full length magnums but at the price of brass these days it can be worth while to buy a small base die and cut the top off with a grinding wheel.

A 30-06 small base die makes a small base body die for a .270 and a .30 SB die will do 7/08 and .243. With a bit of thought there are other possibilities.