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Anybody ever try one at 24"?

I have a LVSF 22" 17 Rem I want to rebarrel, but I'd really like to go up to 24".

This contour is also know as the "remmag28" on the Lilja site. It would finish at .640" @ 24" (.657 @ 22").

Should I flute it?
I would not spend money on fluting. Make sure this "remmag28" has the shank the right diameter for a normal rebarrel, and not one of these barrel nut conversions.
I would waste the money on fluting!!!!!
After I wore out my .22-250 LVSF, I had it rebarreled to .257 Roberts with a Wyatt's long mag box and a 22" Lilja .257 1-10" twist 3 L&G barrel. Yep, fluted. I specified rem mag contour and it was a bit fat so I had to hog out quite a bit from the stock but the result was very pleasing. It would shoot 5 shot groups in the low 0.2s with 100 grain ballistic tips.

Basically a 700 CDL-SF is a 24" LVSF with a wood stock and a BDL mag setup. I've put a couple of those barreled actions into LVSF stocks and swapped mag parts.

So .. your idea of a 24" barrel is fine. Make sure you really get the contour you want 'cause what he calls a this, someone else calls a that, and vice versa. No reason not to flute 'cept cost. Weight savings isn't enough to worry about but the extra surface area to shed heat can make a difference. I've never seen any accuracy difference if the barrel maker is the one doing the fluting, that seems to come into play when someone tries later and doesn't really know WTF they're doing .. which, in turn, usually only happens when someone is too cheap to pay the barrel maker to do the work.

Tom
From the Lilja site: "Remington mag contour w/2.5″ long shank x 1.250″ .609″ muzzle dia. at 28″ this contour is the same as the LVSF (light varmint stainless fluted – .657″ at 22″) original Remington barrel is .640″ at 24″.
Originally Posted by Dooger
From the Lilja site: "Remington mag contour w/2.5″ long shank x 1.250″ .609″ muzzle dia. at 28″ this contour is the same as the LVSF (light varmint stainless fluted – .657″ at 22″) original Remington barrel is .640″ at 24″.


There is a difference. The Remington factory barrel doesn't have a straight shank like that. My LVSF certainly doesn't.
Any suggestions, mathman?
For machining set-up reasons just about any aftermarket barrel is going to have a more substantial straight shank section than a factory Remington barrel which typically begin to taper right away. Even when a gunsmith trims the shank on the short side for installation there's going to be a need for a bit of stock inletting near the receiver end.
If you like a slightly front heavy barrel contour like I do, the LVSF is a perfect contour. I have a LVSF barrel in .223 AI screwed onto my old .17 Rem action after I burned out the barrel and it is a really nice barrel for a day of shooting chucks, sage rats, targets, coyotes, etc... Not great for a lot of off hand shooting but I've done some with it and it works fine. But for bipod work and prone work, which most of my varmint shooting is it is the perfect contour and extremely accurate.

A little inletting with a new barrel is just part of the game. I'm not aware of any barrel makers that make a barrel that just exactly drops into the existing barrel channel. If it were me, I would order up the Lilja and start waiting. How far out are they now on their barrels?

Bob
I had a sort of "faux LVSF" built using a Brux #3 contour with a short shank - it was 5/8" and fit the inlet nicely. The Brux is darn close to the LVSF contour.
Thanks!

Sheister,
Not sure on the wait time, but I'm in no real rush.

Just an FYI, the barreled action is currently in a McM Rem Classic Edge.

Keep any thoughts coming....
Originally Posted by WayneShaw
I would not spend money on fluting. Make sure this "remmag28" has the shank the right diameter for a normal rebarrel, and not one of these barrel nut conversions.


I love the photo.
Photo? I don't see it. Is there really a photo in this thread?
Pic test...my current LVSF:

[Linked Image]
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