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I picked up a Savage 99 in 308. Wanted one since I was a teen, many years ago. I was told it was a 99E but have not been able to confirm this. The gun is a working gun, not a safe queen. I have some questions at the bottom:

Some features:
-Serial number is 10744xx
-The lever boss code is IOR
-There is an S on the barrel under the forend
-There is no ID on the stock under the [align:left][/align]butt plate, although there is a S and an A on the underneath side of the butt plate itself.
-Monte Carlo stock
-Lever safety, not tang safety
-Cocking indicator
-No cartridge counter

Hopefully the pics or links show up below:
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/tmp/159119.jpg
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/tmp/159120.jpg
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/tmp/159121.jpg
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/tmp/159122.jpg

I have some questions:
1. What year was it manufactured? Based on what I have pieced together on the web, my best estimate is 1965, but there seems to be conflicting information.
2. What model do I have? 99E? other?
3. I like the rubber butt plate and it is functional but have seen no pics similar to it on the web. Is it factory?
4. I put a scope on it and am satisfied with the accuracy shooting Barnes TSX 165 gr at 100 yards but always looking to make my groups smaller. I dropped it off at my gunsmith to see if he can polish the trigger and possibly lighten the 5 lb. pull a little. Is this the kind of accuracy I should expect from 5 shots at 100 yards? Is there anything else I should be looking at to tighten the group?

Attached picture savage1.jpg
Attached picture savage2.jpg
Attached picture savage3.jpg
Attached picture savage4.jpg
Your rifle was made in 1964. A lever safety and no cartridge counter indicates it IS a 99E, but the stock isn't original. Can't quite tell, but it might be from a 99DL - or an aftermarket stock. Rubber buttplate is not factory.

And.. the accuracy depends on so many things. If you handload, different bullets/powders might help. Optics make a difference. Not to mention the shooter. grin

I hope your gunsmith doesn't do any more than polish/lubricate the surfaces to lighten the trigger. If he starts removing metal, the gun can become unsafe and be subject to slam fires. These are hunting rifles, they don't have triggers that can be tuned to be benchrest quality.

Welcome to the campfire!
Yeah, he seems to know what he is talking about. He knows all he can do is polish it. I learned something new from him: lock time, the time it takes from hammer break to primer strike, is longer on lever actions than bolts and is one of the contributing factors to accuracy issues of all lever guns. If he can get it closer to 4 lbs from the current 5.2 lbs, I will be happy. He suggested hand loading too which I will do if my dies ever get in. I am a little disappointed to hear the stock is not factory, but I guess I should not care that much... as I said it will be a working gun for me, not so much a collector's gun. Thanks for the reply.
The factory stock was birch, and often with a varnish/paint to make it look walnutish - the stocks were the worst thing about the 99E's. So if that one's walnut than in some ways you have an upgrade. They are popular hunting rifles with the 20" barrel, very handy in the woods and blinds.
Welcome and congratulations on finding the rifle.
You found the right place to ask questions about the 99. These guys are great and are bottomless pits of knowledge.
It may take some work to find a load but im sure it can do better than the picture you posted. Although, my 64 has been more finicky than my 76; each is it's own rule.
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