I was going through my rotors today and I think I have at least 5 different versions.

1. The kind with the flat spindle "cap", the part that goes between the brass spindle and nut.

2. Concave spindle cap.

3. Slotted stud/bolt that holds everthing together ( opposite end of the LH nut).

4. Brass spindle that has a slit/slot for the spring on the non threaded end of the bolt.

5. Brass spindle/rotor that doesn't have the slot in #4.


Anyone know the time periods different rotors/spindles/magazine where used? Seems they had a big barrel of them and just grabbed whatever randomly.

Someone could make a life work of this subject. I'll add a wee bit. I have a number 5 brass from s/n 185,8xx. Don't know if they were all without slot prior to WW1 or not. The slot made assembly much easier. There were at least 4 material types before the first aluminum carrier. Brass was most common, but also brass plating (partial) on steel, unfinished cast steel, and case colored steel. I'm going to guess that steel was used during wars due to scarcity of brass. Unfortunately, I don't have s/n traceability on most of my drawer full of carriers.

I wouldn't know where to start in terms of some chronological definition of the evolution of the various parts. I suspect the changes were driven by the addition of cartridges beyond the original .303.

Very early on there is also a rotor made of some sort of pot metal like composition. They don't hold up well from the few guns I've seen with them.

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i have seen one of those totally worn out, in an old 303, Ill have to dig thru my stuff and find it again Norm

I just found a new type I didn't even realize I had. Concave cap that is left handed threaded. So it threads on to the stud and then then the nut threads on after. It wasn't staked, so the nut acts like a jam nut.

This all started because I finally obtained a 38-55 rotor ( just the brass part ) and am trying to make it whole. So far I'm not able to find the correct parts in my stash. But have a few more to go.

Why in hell didn't they mark what calibers these rotors are for?

what and make life easy ,, just another present from Savage.

LOL.

I have a 25-35 rotor that has a stamp. It says 22 but is definitely not a 22HP. It perfectly matches the 25-35 rotor in my 25-35 1899F. I'm thinking that stamp probably isn't factory.

I make 22 HP cases from 25-35 cases. Thinking one rotor would work in either.

They did stamp a few for a while. Mostly 22HP and .303. They are so similar I think they had to do that to avoid mixups. I still can't see the difference in the 2 though?

Where did the 38-55 fall from?? Good for you!!

If you run out of stuff to make it whole, get ahold of me.

Surprisingly I got it from Numrich, unfortunately they only had the one.

I have a feeling I'll be getting a hold of you to see if you have the parts for it. I have a few more rotors I'd be willing to scavenge parts from for it but I'm almost positive they aren't the correct ones.

If you take pictures I can add to the rotor info in the Misc good info section. IID's would be good to have but if not available just having a picture might make it easier to talk about.

This is why I only buy rifles that don't need work. But I do understand the fun of learning from the experience of piecing one together. Carry on and educate the rest of us as you go, please.

I don't mind taking some pictures, I wasn't sure if anyone would be interested so started the thread to answer my own questions. Some of these things are really tough to get apart but I'm pretty good at it now. I have learned that even rotors that seem to work ok, work way better after disassembly, cleaning and reassembly. What a big difference, although I'm haven't been screwing with any of my "good" rifles. Mainly spare parts and project guns. Also been converting the rust on the caps and bolts bluing to keep the rust at bay. That can make a very big difference on receivers and barrels too. Not only does it stop the rust without hurting the existing bluing but makes them look a little nicer without making them look reblued.

Since someone was nice enough to send me a scathing email about converting the rust, instead of asking me to clarify, I'll provide more info info.

I'm not talking about evaporust or any of that type of stuff. First degrease the part. For small stuff I use dishwashing soap like Dawn. Then lightly taking the loose-ish rust off with a brass or nylon brush. Then boil the metal part in water ( preferably distilled or RO water ) for 20-30 minutes. Remove, card off the previously rusty area with #0000 steel wool, then wipe down with oil. It's basically a very light rust bluing. It definitely won't make it look new or fix pitting, but it will convert all the rust. Just using steel wool, Frontier 45 pad, copper scrubber, etc and then oiling generally doesn't get all the rust and it will come back unless I'm unseen places.

Does anyone have a picture of a 38-55 rotor?

I sold the only 1 I have ever seen without getting a pic.

I specialize in orphans, so get a lot that have been messed with/messed up by POs. Even more critical than the carrier=rotor is the cartridge guide. I have interchanged 22 HP, 25-35 and 30-30 carriers, but in every case the cartridge guide had to be changed or modified. In some cases, the auto cutoff is a player as I recently experienced in a 22 to 30-30 conversion. There are probably 5 times as many different cartridge guides as carriers, and none of the guides were ever marked. I suspect that carriers get blamed for problems that are really due to cartridge guides and/or cutoffs.

My 303 is a 1909 with a 303 stamped brass rotor.... not EVER taking it out of the rifle again, so no picture, though.

8 0r 10 years ago there was a pic of all the rotors , i did see it not to long ago but cannot remember where , i think it was posted by the guy that had parts back then and sold out ,
i cant remember if it was you Mike that bought the stuff.

norm

OK go to MISSalinus info at the top of forum page scroll down and you will find a section called carriers it is in there

norm

I looked there Norm. I don't see one labeled 38-55 in the marked pic and nothing like one in the other.

Yes I bought the parts lot from Tal35

This is one of those questions I hate to Ask. I didn't know Tal had sold out? Is he still around? Doesn't seem that long ago he had a bunch of barrels for sale?

Will photos of one in the rifle help?

Sure Rick. The milling on the rotor head is what i want to see. As i recall the rotor head was milled out for the .38 bullet. None of the others make room for the bullet itself.

Tal35 sold off his Savage parts many years back. He is very much still around.

Numrich Arms has pictures of several different cartridge guilds. Might be wise for those into the parts to keep a picture file when you can find them with info. They not might always be there when you need them.