My 99 has the cartridge window on it. Loading the magazine full with the action closed, rounds 1 and 2 show through the window. 3 shows halfway, while 4 and 5 are not visible. If you push down on the rotor 3, 4, and 5 are there and complete. Is the rotor mis-stamped are is there an adjustment that needs done? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Dean

probably wrong rotor for that cartrage, as that is what happens,

What caliber is it chambered in Dean?

It's a 250-3000. If it is the wrong rotor why do the cartridges fit?

Since the .250 is fat round using a rotor for a smaller diameter shell would gradually turn the rotor so the numbers would no longer show. Did I get that correct?

I've been on the Savage Foum for over 4 years and I don't think I know much more now about identifing rotors than when I started. This is a subject that needs a lot of input and discussion.

Patch...give use some details on the rifle. Model, serial...etc.

I've got a couple extra rotors but sadly they're not for a 250-3000, one is a 30-30 the other a 303 Savage. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

It is Model 99G .250 take-down. Serial #330,XXX. Everything appears original except perhaps the rear sight. Do the rotors have a # on them like the buttplate, forearm, etc. ?

MD,

Is there a difference in the rotors or is that just what caliber rifle they came from?

No numbers and I think there are only a few that have the caliber marked on them. I thought some rotor calibers were interchangable but not sure.

If you have any experiance please post. Right or wrong it would give us a place to start.

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> As I posted earlier in another thread, I had some feed problems with one of my "F's".The gun was .308 cal. In attempting to learn the rotor spring adjustment process I wound up having the rotor assembly in my hand. The only numbers I saw on mine were the index numbers for showing remaining cartridges in the magazine. It is also my understanding, I may be wrong, that a rotor for .308 will work for .358. I would be interresting to know if the rotor is different for a rimmed cartridge. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Rick, those are just the caliber of the guns the rotors came out of. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I have 2 that are marked a 303 and 22 hp, I used a 303 in a 243 bubba, parts gun and it works fine with no modifications

My rifle feeds just fine. The cartridges load in the rotor easily, just wondering why I couldn't see the number through the window after 3. Like I said, thought maybe there was an adjustment or something.

Would the markings be visable without having the rotor out of the rifle? I would guess these might be from Pre-WWI rifles.

Your Bubba rifle must have been on a pre-900,000 serial action (?).

Patch, I have completely dis-assembled/re-assembled five M99 rilfes with the rotary magazines.

Thre magazines are spring tensioned and it's possible to have every thing 'work', but due to improper tension, the proper number doesn't show thru the little cartridge counter window.

IF your rifle shows between 2-3 with a full mag, ( one chambered or bolt closed on empty chamber??)

I think the rotor spring needs to be wound up a bit..:)pre-loaded more if that makes sense.

To check and see IF you get it adjusted right, one <dummy> cartridge in the magazine should bring the number '1' into view squarely in the little viewing window in the receiver side.

I would be surprised IF somewhere in time someone replaced the rotor with an incorrect on..Jim

If you turn the rotor all the way around by hand ,you can usually see the cal # stamped on the tapered part of the rotor at the front through the loading opening ,it is very hard to see, Hubert <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Hubert, That's correct.Magnifying glasses like one gets at the drug store for reading and a good light help see the caliber stampings, tho they are faint.

Some of the rotors are badly tarnished and the cartridge numerals can be hard to read thru the little window also, but one can open the action and use his finger to rotate the rotor around until the '1' appears and get an idea how much the spring-winding needs to be wound up for proper adjustment.
It's possible to overwind it 100%, but you'll know if you do that because you won't be able to load all five rounds in the mag.

When I had mine apart for cleaning lube, I lightly polished the brass rotor w/0000 steel wool to clean it up.

The numbers are stamped on the rotor and can be made more visible with a wipe of indelible ink into the stamping and ten buff off leaving the ink in the number stamping.jim

Jim is correct. I had the same problem with my 250-3000. When I took it apart for cleaning I found the nut on the rotor was loose and that the spring was weak. I tightened the nut which brought the numbers back in line right to left (the nut has left hand threads) and put a half-turn more tension on the spring. Everything lines up perfectly from 0 to 5 and feeding is more positive.

I would also like to address the differences in rotors sometime, and maybe find a place to list different pics of the variations. I probably have 10-15 rotors, some marked and some not.

I took apart one of my 22HP rats and found a rotor with two sets of stampings. One for 22HP and the other for something else. 1899H rifle, 1914.

Either a screw up during assembly or a replacement rotor and restamping somewhere down the line.

Chris

I've been out of pocket since my last post, but thanks for the input peoples. Jim, I loaded each round (1-5) individualy, and then closed the action after each. 1 and 2 are centered and show in the window. 3 shows halfway, 4 and 5 do not show at all, but are visible when you push (turn) the magazine down. This sounds like a tension adjustment? If so, I know a gunsmith who can do the work. Of course, have to wait till I get the bucks. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Dean

Patch, Hard for me to say from here.but:

With start of empty magazine, you might try useing your finger to rotate the rotary unit manually until '1' appears in the window initially, then continue to rotate it until you see the '5' appear.Then continue on around until the '1' appears AGAIN and see IF it'll rotate to '5'.

IF that works, I'd say the tension is about 1/2 what it should be and/or the nut that secures the spindle as a unit needs tightening.
There is a small screw on the receiver side which can be loosened-removed so the rotor can be adjusted in tension to the proper place.That is a good place to start before digging deeper and dis-assembling.

The M99 rifle is not difficult to dis-assemble/re-assemble IF you have the procedure.
I use the Gun Digest Centerfire rifle book on Firearms Assembly-Disassembly and it has good pics and a decent description for the rotary mag M99 rifles.

http://www.gun-tests.com/gunbooks/20-1.html

Buttplate-buttstock is removed, then lever then bolt assembly to access-remove-examine the rotor.

The trickiest part is selecting a large flat blade screwdriver with sufficient shaft length (12" or so) and proper blade thickness-fit to loosen the bolt deep in the buttstock that secures it to the receiver.
YOU DON'T WANT TO BUGGER THE HEAD ON THAT BIG BOLT AND REMEMBER TO HIT THE BOLT HEAD WITH PENETRATING OIL THE DAY BEFORE..:)jim

cwerely// what was the other stamping withthe 22 HP, It could of been for a multi barrel rifle set if it is a take down, <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

What is the serial on the rifle? This is interesting. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I'll have to enlist the help of someone more dextrous than I. I couldn't turn the rotor past the first 3 with my fingers, forget on around. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> Do you mean the screw above the window? Is this simply a "set" screw and then you adjust the rotor nut? Live and learn! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

The set screw for the rotor is above and just forward of the cartridge counter window in the receiver left side.

I am not where I can check a couple of things, but as I recall, the screw can be loosened and then the rotor can be charged up or back to adjust proper tension.
IF the retaining nut has loosened inside, then take apart is required.jim

Patch, Checking up on a few details I have a bit more info for you.
The set screw that retains the carrier-spindle assembly is as I said...above and left of the cartridge counter viewing window.

BEFORE you loosen & remove the screw, open the action and restrain the carrier-spindle assembly from spinning-unwinding.
A small softwood stick wedged gently into the magazine against the spindle-rotor should do that.

THEN, you can remove the screw and fiddle with the spring tension by winding it up or unwinding it a bit so it has proper tension and the numbers show thru the window properly related to the number of cartridges in the magazine.

Interstingly, my Gunparts-Numrih catalog shows spindles for all the cartridges, ( eight or so) but with the exception of the one for the .358 Win, they all show the same MFGR part number.

Numrich has done a decent job over the years, , but they are not infallable in their nomenclature and I suspect that they would catalog and bin the parts( when they had them) from rifles of known caliber or by caliber stampings on the spindle itself.jim

If the magazine has been dismantld the carrier spring must be retensioned.

Rick, yes.and if the cartridge is too skinny, it will not turn enough and each # will be further away until they can't be seen, <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for all the info everyone. Now I know enough to be really dangerous. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Seriously, I'll have a gunsmith (with 99 experience) do it. The rifle needs a good cleaning anyway. Thanks again,
Dean
---------------------------------------------------
The only "stupid" question is one unasked.

Patch, tweak the attached file once it's loaded on your C drive and print it out.Decent parts breakdown on the typical M99 with rotory mag..Fewer than 6 parts..The tensioning on reassembly is the only part which one will fiddle with to get perfect..jim

fwiw,Over the years, I have encountered many folks who are hesitant to attempt new tasks.Fear of failkure, messing something up etc I suppose.
Maybe I'm different, just stupid..:) or exceedingly reckless, but since growing up on a farm far from dealer-mechanic support and often without cash to fund such even if down the road, I learned how to learn and do things necessary to keep things working properly.

A few requisites for those daring folks who may be so inclined:
A place to work.Lighting.
Set aside proper time.
Proper tools.
Make notes or take pictures these days with a digital camera as you go from the start to the finish.
Gather EVERY bit of information and experiences of others you can beforehand.
Assess the task, the tools, the expertise required and read-reread the instructions.
Then assess your own capabilities, tools etc so you don't get into a project over your head, mess it up or fail to be able to complete it.
About everything we have, particularly the older things, were made and assembled by humans..:)
Some items were made assembled useing veru specialized tools which we don't have and won't afford.
Plan the work and then work the plan.

By and large, in a country where in the past men and women learned to do/fix and make things without relying heavily on others, I see a trend these days for folks to never try.
This old saying is true:

"Our doubts and fears are traitors to the life we might have.
When we listen to them, we miss achieving many good things..because we never attempt.."jim

<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />Jim,
GREAT words of wisdom AND advice. No way in heck could I have said it better. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I agree with you 100% Jim. Now though, with a disability, a lot of things I try to do I physically can't. It's the pits, because no one does things like you would have. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> Dean

Dean, Wish I lived down the road as this old man would come by and help you myself..:)

I've never been a watchmaker..:) as it concerns dexterity..
Prett ham-fisted ageing farmer whose fingers are big and knobby..:)
I have often gotten one of my sons or even a friend with better eyes and nimbler hands( the wife) to do some of the more delicate things under my direction..

At the very least, a man armed with some knowlge and instructions might take the rifle AND that to a gunsmith who'd never seen an M99 and he'd then be able to affect the fix..

Good luck..Presently, it sounds like the rifle functions well, just an adjustment needed for the counter to show accurately..jim

The rotor that I have with two sets of stampings, it doesn't have the calibers stamped, but does have the following stamped:

0,1,2,2,3,3,4,4,5,5

One set works for the 22HP, the other set prob for 303....

After looking a little more closely at the numbers, the style of numerals (font) are not identical. ie: the two 3's are of slightly different style. Probably stamped at a later date....... Perhaps this rifle did not start life off as a 22 HP. Who knows...

Serial 1590xx

IF one looks at the actual cartridge dimensions, the .250 & .300 Savage should probably have the same rotor and follower..jim

Does anyone with calipers want to take some dimensions ? I really would like to take pics of some of these by themselves and ID them. Maybe to put them on a site somewhere for future questions?

I'm pretty sure it's just spring tension. I just recently took my .300 99F apart to polish the rotor so I could read the numbers once again. I now have the same problem as patch. It lined up fine before. I was hoping there would be an easier way of setting the tension but after reading the posts in here, I guess it's just a matter of trial and error. Thnx Mad Dog for the referral to this forum.

Tal, are any of those .284? Would be numbered 0-4 instead of 0-5.