Chefs knife in 0-1 and G10 handle material. These take lot of patience to make. But when they turn out like this it’s worth it!

Very nicely done! Has a French style (Sabatier) "spear point" blade that's nicely tall at the heel.

I'm always surprised there's so little conversation about kitchen knives here. I have many handmade kitchen knives, but no handmade hunting knives. I use kitchen knives everyday, but hardly ever use a hunting knife!

What's the purpose of the scallop at the blade heel/bolster? Blade length?

The scalloped area at the blade heel is to have 100% edge on the cutting board and not a wide part of the blade at the plunge line areas. It’s about 7” blade length.

I love my kitchen knives! I need a chefs knife like this myself.

Very nice!

That’s awesome! Well done sir!

That is nice . . . VERY NICE!

I would have to build a display case for it!

2021 needs to be the year I make one of these for myself. I have a few paring knives and 1 killer 5” utility but I need an upgraded chefs knife.

That's a winner.

I don't talk about my kitchen knives because none are what I would call special. My knife block is full of a set of old Chicago Cutlery I rehandle with Mountain Mahogany, wood from a tree where I loved to hunt. There are a couple others laying out which are blades I bought and added handles. I use a steel to maintain an edge in the kitchen and about once a year I'll recut the edge with my Edge Pro.

well done

Very well done! A beauty

What thickness stock did you use? Is that blued?

It’s a ferric chloride etch finish. A pre patina so to speak. I use 1/8” on this pattern since it’s so tall and gets thinner down as you get to the tip really nicely.

That's a damn good looking knife.

Do you water jet out the pattern?

That is very nice, I like the finish also.

I cut every pattern by hand and allow for small variations to morph the patterns into the best evolution they can be. I don’t believe this can be done using computer to drive the product. My hands and choices do. I can be super precise also cutting out and grinding to a scribe line I know a machine can not duplicate by the nature of the process. I choose the control vs ease that’s my experience anyways. It’s all in the small changes I find.

Good looking knife indeed......as to a good 5" Utility.....I have learned with all my time in a Kitchen, that this is the best all around knife a cook/chef can have!

That’s bad ass.

How much?

Thanks man. Sent you a pm

That is super nice. Well done!

Yeah, those wide, thin, flat grinds are somewhat of a pain. Well more than somewhat.

Very nice job.

Yes. Wide and flat = effort for sure.

That’s nice.

What's the blade height at the heel?

I use 2” stock.

Any pics of the 5” utility and your paring knives? I have a few custom boning knives and a sweet paring knife, but no chefs knives.

I’ll see if I can upload some to post here.

3” paring knife




5” utility

You make great looking knives. I really like that parer with wood.

Thanks Billy. That one turned out exceptionally well!

Those O1 as well?
S.

They are. That’s my main steel. I just prefer it. I use it 98% of the time.

When the edge returns light that well in a photo you know it's good.

Flat out gorgeous.

That's a beauty.

Are you heat treating the steel? If so, what sort of hardness are you looking for?

Thanks!

I heat treat my steel. I always look for 58-59 range.

I can say that the result has been what I’m looking for vs a number so it may be dead nuts 59-60 vs 58-59. I honestly trust the result vs trying to get obsessed with the rc number. That number can vary depending on how the material is prepped to test. I trust my heat treat recipe more so that trying to chase a number that can vary as you are truly only measuring the exterior hardness at the surface. It’s a tricky discussion to explain.

I know the result has worked for many years so I trust that vs telling someone a number and feeling like that explains it all to someone.

But to answer your question a little more precise what I’m looking for is a knife that won’t chip out, the edge won’t roll and is also easy to sharpen. Balancing the ease of sharpening with edge function is the magic dance.

My D2 knives are a little harder to sharpen so I’m sure those hit around the 60 mark vs 59 in 0-1. Or it could more be the build of D2 to have a harder wear resistance vs the rc number.

Thanks for the info... I'm not into some sort of precise Rockwell number, just wanted a general idea. Buying a handmade knife is an investment in the maker - his ability and vision. It's not a science, it's a craft and the "feel for the steel" that comes from experience - as your answer clearly illustrates!

Ha ha. I hope I didn’t get long winded but I had to add in real info vs an answer