I have only had experience with medium size deer and Antelope, but here is my experience:

As a new hunter I remember purchasing and still have some large hunting knives (blades 5"+) and a Buck folding hunter (3-3/4"). I also bought one of those blades that has a handle that is perpendicular to the blade so you can work with your wrist strait. They all end up staying in the truck now.

At the recomendation of an older friend I tried using the pocket knife I always carry, a Buck model 301 C. That was 9 years and atleast 12 animals ago. The 301C is a three bladed knife with the longest blade being less than 3" and 2 smaller blades. Buck doesn't list any multi bladed pocket knives on their web site today. They do list the Ranger or model 112, it is a single locking bladed knife with a blade 3" long. That is 3/4 of an inch shorter than the 110 or folding hunter.

I like having extra blades that are sharp and ready to go. Short blades do not get in the way of what I do NOT want to cut. A small narrow blade easily slips into the joints to cut tendons for removing the skull and lower limbs. With a short blade I can guard the tip with my index finger while zipping open the abdominal cavity without getting my other fingers on the blade. I feel that I have less control when I am using knives with longer blades because my hand and wrist are farther from the work.

If you can skin the animal when it is still warm and plyable the skin can be mostly pulled off using some of your body weight and small guiding cuts. Maybe those big sweeping bladed "skinning knives" are a good deal when the animal has to be skinned cold. But that would take alot longer than pulling it off when it is warm.

A quality folding knife with two blades a little shorter than my index finger would be my ideal hunting and pocket knife. Take a large knife on a hunting trip where you might need it for survival. Keep a smaller blade handy when it comes time to work on the game, you may be suprised at which knife you really end up using the most.

seniorboyd,

I agree with your small blade concept. I like the Wenger Ranger series of Swiss Army knives, as they come in a variety of configurations that should meet just about any need or want. I use a Sagan Saw to split the pelvis bone and sternum when I dress a deer or antelope.

I disagree with the big survival knife concept. I think that a folding saw, like a Buck, or a Wyoming Saw, is a better companion to a quality folding knife than either a large knife or a hatchet. People hardly ever wound themselves with a saw, while they often manage to do so with an overly large knife or a hatched.

Sincerely,

Bearrr264

I went through a lot of knives during my 40 years of hunting. About two years ago a friend of mine wanted to make me a special knife, custom fitted to my hand and made for deer hunting.
This is what it turned out to be. 3.25" blade, 8" overall lenght. Strong knife and just the right size.
Handles are elehpant ivory, and notice the sheath is made for a left hander.

Bearrr and jbmi,
I appriciate your comments. I do keep a folding saw in camp for removing limbs when I don't feel like working the joints with the knife myself. I have not had the pleasure of harvesting an animal that was big enough were I had to cut through the sternum yet. A friend of mine has showed me several times how to trim around the upper penis and pull it down bladder still attatched into the body (animal hanging by its heels) cavity and out, leaving only a nice neat hole near the tail. I have yet to master that and have sawed through the pelvis with the same saw too.

That is a very nice and practical knife your friend gave you. Talk about a treasure!

I favor the larger blades to carry hunting. One of the reasons for that is I always carry a muskrat pattern pocket knife on me, hunting or not so a small sheath knofe would be redundant. Generally I'm wearing a Morseth that was left to me by an uncle years ago. I split the sternum with it, and sometimes the pelvic bone, but I usually save that for the hatchet. I have no use for saws. If I wereto get a soaking, and needed a fire large enoughto dry out, a hatchet is what gets that job done. Especially in foul weather. You have the ability to split wood that the saw lacks and that difference is important to me!

I've gotta say that I'm in the big blade camp. I usually carry a Fallkniven belt knife. I found that almost every time out, I end up using the fixed blade for something. Trimming those little branches that turn out to be in the way after the hand saw is put away, Prying loose bark off the spot where the tree stand is going to be hung so that the stand won't squeek, digging broadheads out of the ground and trees, making a quick ground blind, and of coarse field dressing. I can pry with it and not worry about breaking the blade. I've got quick access to it. I've pounded the blade through large sticks to split them to get to dry wood. I realized that I never used my pocket knife. So I don't carry a pocket knife. I do however have a multitool in my fanny pack. But that's more of a toolkit than a knife. I'm sure I could have done some of that stuff with a small pocket knife, but most of it I couldn't. I went bear hunting with a guy once, that carried only a small pocket knife. He had to borrow my knife to cut through a summer sausage. His wasn't big enough. I guess you should carry the tool that suits your needs.

I'm also a large knife fan like buckstopper. I have broken several smaller knives. Since I ride a lot into hunting areas , I carry enough blade for almost any chore,camp or butchering, I usually have a large & medium size marine style Camilus survival knife on which I have made horn handles for, a Buck skinning knife, small hatchet, and a miter box saw in my saddle bags, or panniers if I'm pulling pack animal.

I am always prepared to stay out overnight away from camp if the situation arises that I'm too far from camp to make it back in a reasonable time. A small 3' knife won't cut it ( pun intended )under those circumsatnces .
I carry a 5" blade on my belt.

I once had a bd experience with a Gerber folding knife ( read stupid here).
I was fishing for stripers on Lake Mead. These fish usually have to be knocked on the head after caught to kill them.

I took the Gerber and holding it by the handle, hit a fish on the back of the head with the back of the blade. When I did, I must have squeezed the bar on top that locks the blade. The blade closed with my hand in the way and buried itself in my knuckle down to the bone. The guy I was fishing with commented that it was long way from my heart and qiut whining and fish. By the time we got to a hospital late that night, it was too late for stitches.

I have since then been vary leery of folding blade knives.

In the past I've uesd a large Buck with a 5 7/8" fixed blade. Good for heavy use such as a machete for small limbs and vines while walking in the woods, popping out the joints of the legs while skinning, and splitting limbs for the fire........After the Buck I bought a Cold Steel 4 5/8" fixed blade. As good as the Buck but a smaller package not as clumsy as the longer blade. Also has a drop point blade which I think is better for skinning chores. Next I bought a Buck Lighting 3 1/4" fixed blade. Not intended for heavy use, the blade is a lot thinner. Good size for skinning, but the blade has a real sharp tip and sometimes nicks items not ment to be cut. Since it is to small for heavy use and not wanting two fixed blade knives on my belt I have gone and bought another knife. New knife is a Cold Steel Trail Blazer 2 1/2" folding knife with a drop point blade. Has a pocket clip and thumb hole for easy one hand opening. Now I tote a folder and a fixed blade and that takes care of all my task while a field. Cold Steel locking knives have some of the stongest locks on the market. A big plus for me. The Trail Blazer is just right for squirrels,rabbits,and Alabama Whitetails. Have 4 Cold Steel knives, 2 folders and 2 fixed. The best knives I've owned. But I would like to try a Benchmade Osborne Axis lock with a reverse tanto point and 154CM steel. 3 1/2" blade 2.9 oz. It's just hard to get past the price tag of $150.00.

Senior, please do not take offense, but you are pulling your penis's all wrong <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Deer is on the ground , cut down the penis the same way, and cut out the a- hole. Milk out some feces from inside the deer, and cut the intestines where there is no poop. now pull out the whole works. A-hole ,penis(urethra) and small section of intestine that you cut, and unbroken bladder will all slip right out the back. Pick up deer by front legs and cavity blood will flush out the big whole. I learned this from an old timer and passed it on to others that stood by in amazement. It is really slick.

I like the small blade idea too. I currently use a Buck Switch Blade model. It is nothing more than a light folder with various 3-4 inch blades. I've got a clip point blade, a skinner blade, a gutting blade and a serrated blade. Then I have a very short, light Sagen Saw I got from Cabela's.
These work great on both deer and Pronghorn. Even if you must skin them on the ground. You don't use the same blade for the whole animal. That way they stay very sharp for easy use.
I'm with the last poster. I always cut around the anus first, so I pull it out intact. And I always cut along side the strenum, through the cartilage, to make sure I get all the blood possible out of the chest cavity, etc. This also helps to cool the animal. I skin all my animals when I drop them, before I transport.
The next one I get, particularly if he is a long way in, I'm going to bone out. I'll stick the meat in a compactor bag, or wrap it in a space blanket, etc. And then into a pack. E

after i finally got my crkt urban shark sharpened to a fare-the-well (those crkts seem to come with a very steep edge; good for punching through rib cages; not good for field-dressing) with a shallower grind, i found it to be a wonder on the two deer i have field-dressed with it this season. it went right through the gristle holding ribs to the sternum, and did the hide slitting and gut detaching very nicely. and it fits right in my palm with the blade end projecting no farther than the end of my pointer finger. for a sheath knife, i do like like the slightly larger russell/green river "camp" blade and the classic green river "trade" blade. i think that overall the crkt is best, though, because of that sharp anus-circling point.

as you can see, i like inexpensive, hard-working knives. for a drop-point, i do like the old gerber bolt-action. mine is 18 years old. i saw the other day the company is still making that design. i think a sharp-nosed design like the urban shark (it's really a so-called tactical blade) is best for those who have field-dressed a few deer first with a drop-point. it much easier to make a messy mistake with a sharp-nose knife than with a drop-point.

A lot of methods here, and some interesting ways of skinning.

I have been cutting the a-hole out, stripping the intestine, cutting it, and tying it off before removal. Haven't had the pleasure of getting a bull -- yet. One issue we have here in CO is that some evidence of sex has to remain on a portion of the meat. Also, I seem to have read that you are supposed to retrieve the head of a bull.

Two years ago I de-boned and packed out a yearling cow. NOT cutting the rib cage, nor cutting the pelvis, nor cutting the hip joints made it a lot easier. Now that we have concerns about Chronic Wasting Disease, which is found in the spinal and cranial cavities, and takes something over 1200 degrees F to kill, it makes great sense to NOT cut bone.

I also prefer a short knofe. I cut that cow up with a Schrade Clipit (the drop point larger version, ~ 3-3.5" long). Admitedly, it was a bit lite duty, but worked fine. Spyderco makes a very strong bladed 2" long lock back, and Gerber makes that knife with the large finger hole (which sounds exceedingly safe when your hands may be slippery from cutting and gutting). About three years ago I got lost ands made a fire with a bunch of Aspen logs. I was glad I had my saw (in this case a Gerber switchable blade unit). It was light enough I had packed it for cutting the pelvis (before I tried not cutting the pelvis). I generally carry a Case Arapaho, though I haven't dressed an animal with it in years, it has been an extra blade for skinning. I generally don't skin until I have the animal back at camp or home. But that is when I can load it easily, as opposed to hiking, and it is cold enough to freeze the animal at night.

Both. For deer and elk, I carry one of each, a big Buck fixed blade plus a smaller folding Shrade. I prefer using the smaller one for most of the work. I'm not that great of a sharpener, so both knives usually need a new edge after 1 elk. I dropped a bull once right in a rock crevice and could NOT get the SOB out. I was alone so wound up just sort of hacking away at what I could get out until he was light enough to pull out. Used the big one there mostly. I carry one of those Gerbers you mentioned with the finger hole as an everyday pocketknife, so it usually gets bloody too. It is easy to hold when wet and I've got the grip strength of a school girl in my left hand, so it's a little safer there. (If you ever break your wrist, don't wait 5 years to get it fixed.) My Wyoming saw goes in my meat pack, it's real nice for taking off legs, zipping up the rib cage, cutting branches, etc. I've got a Gerber Gator that looked to be just right for hunting but I can't keep an edge on it to save my soul. It usually stays in my truck tool box.

I've never tried one of those pelvis-cutter serrated deals, but they look like they'd work. I always seem to just make a mess trying the rim-job method of pulling the anus back through, so I've gone back to just splitting the bone.

SD

I once dressed out a deer with a little 3 bladed folder. Got the job done. If I have a choice, I'll take about a 4 inch fixed blade. You need somthing fairly heavy to cut through pelvic bone, but for my money anything longer than 4 inches is a waste.

Broke a chip out of a Schrade back in '78 while splitting a pelvis. Got a Schrade Hone Steel and have used it for splitting every since. It also will do to touch up the blade if needed. Bob

Not sure I understand. You use a sharpening steel for splitting? The way I do it is to put the tip of the blade a little to one side of center on the bone and smak the pommel with the heal of my hand, then pull the blade straight out without twisting. Move down about 1/2 inch and hit it again. I keep going all the way down the bone, and then grab both legs and push them apart. The bone usually pops right apart. How do you do it with a steel?

Yeah my girlfriend told me that too ... I think she was just trying to make me feel better!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

About what I expected from an Aggie. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

The HoneSteel is basically a chisel. The flat sides are useful to hone and the edges are like a steel. It does have a chisel point on one end. Where I hunt rocks are not hard to find, just hard to avoid. I just split the pelvis and break it over my knee.
I don't use it to sharpen any more since I got a Lansky. The edge lasts much longer. So it isn't a round steel that you imagined. Sorry about that. But now that you bring it up I haven't seen one in a while, may not be made any more. Now that I think about it it is made with some magnesium in it for emergency fires. Hope this clears up your questions. If not inquire further and I will try to answer for you. Bob

I understand what you're saying. Just crossed my mind after reading your post. I wonder if it would pay to carry a small sharp chisel for the purpose. Maby even make one. Shouldn't be too difficult to design and make one just for splitting. Have to give this some thought. Maby a short piece of an old file (or a new file, might be even better) with a small handle. Somthing light and short.

If you make one give yourself at least 1/2" a the top, maybe more. At least 6" long. Give yourself plenty of room to guide the end of the blade by sight. I think 3" minimum. Measure your hand to custom fit. I use the edge to chisel through the pelvis. By that I mean if the blade is 3/4" wide I use 1/4" to do the work. I watch the leading edge and guide the blade with my eye. Hope this helps. Bob

I'm not sure if one should call it large or small, but I use a Marble's Plainsman, which has about a 4 to 4 1/2 inch blade. What I like about it is that the blade is the correct lenght for my whitetail and blackbear needs, and the blade is nice and thick. I have no problem spliting the sternum and pelvis, or cutting the occasional popple whip. Someone else does my skinning, so I can't comment on its usefulness for this.

What in the world is a "popple whip"?

One December in Iowa at 10 below, it was so cold I couldn't smack the pommel of my knife hard enough to cut into a pelvic bone. Wound up doing it with a rock. Dinged up the brass pommel of my Vangard pretty good. Now I think things like that give a knife, or gun, personality. Every time I look at that knife I remember that day.

As for a chisel I'm thinking maby a blade 3/4 in. wide 3 or 4 in. long, with a flair above the 4 in. handel about an inch in diameter. Maby make it all steel so you could bash it with a rock if necessary. Any thoughts?

How about somthing like a saw blade. Anybody ever done this job with a saw blade type thing? How do they do it in the slaughter houses? Anybody know?

Quote:
Yeah, my girlfriend told me that too...

Strange, that's not what she told me.

We have some trees here call "trembling aspen," or "popple." They are a fast growing, shade intolerant species that will be only about one to two inches in diameter when they are say 12' tall, and usually densely spaced. We call them popple whips because of their shape.

Troublsom1 .... sorry about that ... I would have assumed most would have measure upto 4" <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Keep using that pump ... she'll work for ya! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

In the Slaughter House:
They have a device that looks like a medium sized chain saw and works on a priciple like a cross between a [Sawsall and an Air hammer] Solid blade no chain.
They split the whole carcass with the same tool.

In the olden days they had a two-handed Clever with a blade about 18" long, weighed in at about 15 to 20 pounds, before that in the real olden days, it was a real medival looking axe. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

small knife? or big knife? ....... well yes, actually i carry both in my fanny pack while hunting. the larger knife that i've carried for several years now is a buck vanguard, and it is an excellent knife for any heavy cutting that needs done....

my smaller knife is one that i ground from a piece of stainless tool steel bar stock. i inserted the tang in a piece of 1/2" pipe, hammered the end down on the tang and silver soldered it in place. i then vinyl dipped the pipe handle..... the blade was originally 3" long and is approx. 3/32" on the spine, and tapers quickly from about 3/4" down to a very sharp point... it is a miserable thing to sharpen but once sharp holds an edge fairly well. it is useful for making piercing cuts, as in removing the rectal area of a deer. i will have to remake it before too long or find a suitable replacement elsewhere. if i elect to make another one i will have to research the steel type a little more carefully to make the thing easier to sharpen.

my dad had a little bitty leather handled case knife that he used for the same purpose and used it for 20 years or so anyway but i didn't find it when he died. never seen another like it.....

in the past i have used folders for field dressing and probably will again at some point or other.... i just dislike the difficulty in getting them clean while still in the woods. my little pocket gerber is always with me....... john w

I like a stout fixed blade but not too long. The longer knives have too many disavantages such as excess weight and poor leverage. Buck makes a "Zipper" that is really nice.

I had a Zipper but didn't like the zipper part. Traded it off and got a Vangard, which is the same thing without the zipper.