I put together my 1st ever kit knife: Enzo Trapper. I feel I did a very good job with the sanding and polishing. Fit and finish look nice. But I need to seal the scales or handle. I'd like to keep the lighter color or hue if possible.

Suggestions what to apply? I've heard Linseed and Danish oil. I have no idea what Danish oil is. I've used TRU Oil for a gunstock. Something like that which cures hard and tough is what I'd like but I haven't a clue.

Minwax or Johnson paste wax........

I have used boiled linseed, danish and Tru oil. All very similar (in my opinion) as to what they are and how they work.
You can do an oil finish, or.
You can do exterior poly eurethane finish--tougher than oil.
I would hold off on the wax till last.
jmho
Tim

You may want to just go with poly. Some of the oils change the color tone a bit. I have used Danish wood stains such as Watco, but no experience with the oils.

The wax I suggested earlier is great on tough hardwoods like ironwood (that don't need much of anything), but it really isn't very protective......

Where's the pics?

It's not done....

If I could make a decision I'd run out and buy the product and finish it

I would just poly it because curly birch is not that hard. And it is light enough for some oils to change the hue.

Pick satin or semi-gloss and have at it.........

Minwax Helmsman Exterior Spar Poly Urethane.
Warm the wood and urethane and apply liberally.
Wipe off and apply second coat and rub it in.
Wipe off and apply third coat and rub it in.
Let cure for a day.
jmho
Tim

Any of the finishing methods above will work very well. Here is one I want to try, but never have.

Sand smooth, up to 600 or 800 grit. Using thin Super Glue, using a cloth to apply, apply a very thin coat of Super Glue to entire handle. Apply as smooth as possible.

Sand again, if it needs to be smoothed up, with 600 800 paper. Apply another coat, and continue applying coats until grain is filled.

Sand with 600 or 800 paper, if surface is rough. If surface is not rough, leave it like it is if you like glossy. If not glossy, sand with 1000 grit paper, to polish and smooth up the final coat of Super Glue.

If you want an oil finish, apply a very thin coat of Tru Oil, and wipe it off. Sand if necessary with really fine paper, 1000 or finer, and apply another very thin coat of Tru Oil, wiping off the excess.

You can stop here, if you are satisfied with the finish, and apply wax, as suggested above.

This may seem to be very time consuming, but it is not. I used to make pens, using this procedure, and it didn't take but 5 or 10 minutes, but I did let the lathe do the work while I held the sandpaper.

I used a type of lacquer for the final finish, instead of the Tru Oil, but I think Tru Oil would give a nicer finish.

Here is some stabilized spalted Hackberry with a super glue (CA) finish.

If you like an Oil finish Walnut Oil from the art supply places will not darken or yellow the wood as much as linseed or tung.

You can oil then use CA over the oil to get more grain to show and durability.

Plain oil is soft but the feel and grip are good. Oil is easy to do a touch up on.

Varnishes always end up chipping when I have used it. I might be letting build up too much.

"You can oil then use CA over the oil to get more grain to show and durability."

As far as I know, I don't think CA will adhere to oil. I think it would be best to polish the final coat of CA with fine sandpaper, then put a thin coat, or more, of oil on the wood.

I might be wrong about the CA adhering to the oil, but you can try it and see.

Polishing the final coat of oil with some sort of rubbing compound will really make the grain pop out.

Finished. Went with the suggestion of Helmsman poly spar. Figured it was simple but I F'd it up pretty good. Was way stickier than I thought. Had lots of lint clung to handle. Quite a job getting it back to serviceable as I panicked when not dry.

Eventually got it though I am not sure I have enough coats. It's hard now. Had questions of how to get metal polished or rivets polished after they are coated with finish.

Eventually salvaged things with 000 steel wool and elbow grease.

J J
Nick job. That is pretty much the program.
I use "Mothers" Mag and wheel polish for last step before wax.
I get it in the automotive section at wally world.
It cleans and polishes everything.
It will turn black where in contact with brass. I do a heavy polish then wipe off and do a light polish to remove the black.
Works on metal and softer stuff also.
Then Ren wax.
jmho
Tim

He knows!!!!!

gunmakers have used nitric acid for years to bring out the grain in curly maple, to make it "pop". If recall correctly they used a dilute solution on it and the lightly heated it. Which brings the grain out.

Potassium permanganate works for me. Get at pharmacy.
Just add water to the powder and apply. Don't be afraid
of the purple color.
Tim

Looks nice. Fine job......