Invariably, my knives that have been in their sheaths for a year or two are loaded with that green crud heavily coating anything that's aluminum or brass. Of course, it only happens with knives stored in leather sheaths, never with plastic, nylon, or Kydex sheaths. Solutions?

I was thinking an application of car wax to the non-steel surfaces might work, if applied and dried before putting them back in their sheaths for storage.

Storing a knife or firearm in a leather sheath is just asking for trouble.

Get some of those silicone impregnated handgun socks from Midway.

You can store several knives in each sock.

Don't store your knives in leather sheaths. Better for the knife, better for the sheath, problem solved.

Some factory knives with lacquer baked on the handle will not be affected that much till it wears off.
Custom makers don't usually do that.

For clean up of knives, go to WallMart and get some Mother's aluminum wheel polish.
Tim

My concern with storing them out of the sheath would be damage to the edges. So how do you store your knives?

This,not for long periods of time,anyhow,like over a month.

Not so much for inexpensive sheath knife,but as far as a custom knife goes,the knife will actually stretch the leather of the sheath,making it a loose fit. You can correct this by wetting the sheath and letting it air dry ,without the knife in it.

You should not use leather oils on knife sheaths,you do not want to soften the leather for this application ( a knife sheath )

Carbon & Damascus custom hand made knives should never be stored in a sheath.

As far as the green crud,polish with simichrome or the like. Oil does not hurt,but can stain some lighter colored handle materials.

Lemon oil is great on wood ,bone & antler & I do not think it'd hurt any metal if used as a protectant of " patina" or corrosion,although not really the best for that.

AG Russell carries a product called " Rust Free" ,it is a clear liquid designed to protect metals against rust / patina when in storage,for collectors.

Make a paper storage sheath with commercial freezer wrap and masking tape. Just roll the knife in freezer wrap several wraps, fold over the end with the blade and tape to hold the folded over end in place.

Excellent. Thanks.

I use Ace Case or similar padded case. I wrap the knife in a cloth ( non oily) . Lay the wrapped knife opposite the sheath opening,like shoes come in a box.

Probably won't interest anyone but I just give my sheathes a hit with Lanotec when I get them, then leave in the sheath and ignore...must work as there is no verdigris on Randall knives made in the sixties (and newer) with brass fittings.

It should also be said that I am not a collector and I do not requires pristine goods.

I use the foam filled plastic cases like pelican. I store the knives in one and the sheaths in another. You can tip them all different ways and they will not move. I will post a pic when I get home

. [img]https://flic.kr/p/WtEWPa[/img]

This is what I did.



Used silver flatware storage box off of ebay. Non tarnish felt lining and a well made all wood box. I think I paid $15.00 plus $5.00 shipping.

And another single level for any incoming.



And what they look like closed.



Works for me.

twofish

Thanks for the picture. I think that would worry me a little.

Your pictures aren't coming through.

Edited post above with new pic links on Flickr....Photobucket sucks.

I generally just 'store' mine in the box it came in[out of sheath].

How could that worry you ? They don't move, they don't touch each other, they dry if the are wet.

Damn! I think you got it figure out. That's what I'm doing.

Like I said, it's cheap enough and it works for me.

Will fit in larger gun safes with shelves as well.

twofish

Excellent idea. I've already started perusing them on eBay.

Like you when I was new into guns I thought that's what you were supposed to do. I ruined one storing it in foam filled plastic case, it was dry when it went in & case stayed in dry area... couple months later came out wet & deeply pitted.