OK, here's the deal. You have to purchase either a commercially produced knife or semi-commercial. What would you go with and why? (Glad this isn't for real, I love my Dozier).

Wait, wait, wait. This is your hunting knife. Be it deer, elk, etc. You'll use it for skinning, gutting, splitting rib cages, quartering, etc.

S30V Buck Vanguard

Good steel, USA made, a handle that fits my hand pretty decently, capable of the game duties you mention as well as a few camp chores I have been known to use my hunting style knives for. On sale, you can buy one for a Benjamin.

works for me!


ya!


GWB

My old Spyderco Bill Moran Skinner. Was a limited run over 20 years ago.

I've got several of the Spyderco Moran drop points. Those, IMO, are close to perfect factory knives.

I've got several Bark Rivers, while they are nice knives. They tend to be on the thicker side.

Try to find some old Gerbers from the 1960's-70's with the tool steel blades.

Years ago, maybe 15 or so. Gerber made the Gator with a drop point in 154cm, IIRC. I liked it, but lost it....

I tend toward the Scandinavian knives. Either a cheap Mora, a Helle, or possibly a Roselli.

Almost any sharp knife will do, but a Sagan Saw is nice to have for splitting a sternum and a pelvic bone if you're field dressing a deer in a place you can't take a vehicle to.

Buck 119 Special works just fine for me.

Of my knives today .. meaning knives I'm have some experience with already ... I think the rubber handled Buck Vanguard is my favorite. Mine sharpens up pretty well, holds and edge pretty well, and isn't slick when my hands are covered in blood.

I may have a replacement favorite but I haven't had a chance to use it yet. It's a Benchmade "Steep Country". It does not seem to be slick, either, and it is lighter yet.

In the past, my first favorite was a Buck General. If you've got the wrist strength to use it deftly, it is a great knife. The handle is slick when you get blood or fat on it. Very few people have the wrist strength to handle that much blade with precision and fatigue is dangerous.

The next / most recent past favorite before the Vanguard was a first generation Gerber LMF. It looks somewhat like what they market as the "Steadfast" now. The current LMF is a very different knife. 6 inch blade, pretty heavy. It sharpened nicely, held an edge fairly well, and the grip was not slick when bloody. I still use it in the kitchen "processing" meat and carry it in my bag in the truck at times. Oddly enough, it has taken to corroding .. deep etching of the steel and an odd rust. I've never had a stainless knife do that. It's not blood in the sheath, I've sunk it underwater for days, then run it through the washer twice.

Among folding knives, my favorite is the Gerber Magnum LST. It is pretty light, locks up reliably. I'm a fan of the Buck 110 but the regular one is too heavy for what it is. They once offered a version with a skeletonized titanium handle ... wish I had one.

I used to carry a saw some ... Wyoming Saw III, I think. The little one. I don't do that anymore deer hunting. Any parts I would have sawed loose, today I just peel the meat off of them and leave the bone in the field. It goes in my truck pack / bag when I'm elk hunting, however. I also carry a gerber pack-axe in that pack/bag.

Tom

Aw Jesus!

I would take a Japanese VG-10 paring knife, any manufacturer. Slicing the rib cartilage is easy and quick like cutting belly muscle, 2nd choice would be a KOA Jaeger Hunter in D2. I have done the gutting, skinning, quartering and stripping the carcass of a lot of deer with both. Very quick and easy.

I cannot for the life of me understand people using loppers, reciprocating saws, hatchets, axes, etc. for this work! I can and have many times taken a deer from just killed to stripped carcass in a little better than an hour with just a little knife like that. A Buck 110 will work about as well, but the steel is crappy and after one deer it's time to sharpen it again. I do use a reciprocating saw to cut up the bones to fit in the garbage. What the hell do you use a loppers, hatchet, saw gizmos and cleaver for? I sometimes use a big Santoku I had Dale Atkerson make for me out of very thick D2 as a cleaver for chicken parts, but I wouldn't have a clue what to do to a deer with a hatchet or a cleaver. I did watch my dad kill a deer once with an axe, but I got well clear of that rodeo and watched while I tried not to pee myself laughing. I have done almost all of it with a little bitty pocket knife with a 2 inch blade, and i have done more than a couple with a Gerber LST.

Had a guy in camp last year that liked to process his own deer instead of the guides doing it. We watched him zip along gutting, skinning, etc. This guy is wealthy and has killed more whitetail than most guys have ever laid eyes on. I assumed he used a custom knife of some type and was impressed by watching him, so I asked what knife he was using. He had a Victorinox paring knife that cost about $5! Said they were easy to sharpen, worked for what he needed, and no big deal if he lost it.

The Victorinox paring knives with serrated blades have worked well for me, one of the many good tips that Big Stick used to pass along, but the handles are a little too small to fit my hand well, so I've moved over to the Cold Steel Pendleton Lite Hunter style.

I like to split the sternum and cut a 1" piece out of the pelvis bone to facilitate removal of all of the internal organs as a single unit. I use a Sagan Saw to do this in the field or a limb lopper if we haul the intact carcass to a place with running water, so that we can eviscerate, rinse, and hang them in a cool place.

I thought you supposed to use only expensive custom knives in super steels for processing dead critters. Oh my!

I very much enjoy making "hill country wind chimes"




However I don't always just take the quarters and the the loins! LOL



I do like pork chops, or even putting a 1/2 pig split long-ways on the pit.



I find a sawzall very convenient for cutting the animal lengthways along either side of the backbone when it comes to making chops.



ever see a butcher use a saw?


Compound loppers work well for cutting off feet, head.





I hunt out of a camp, don't field dress

the time of day,




and how many I have to skin also are part of the equation as to whether its a "social thing" with my buds, or whether I'm on the production line!




Works for me,

YMMV.

ya!

GWB

Benchcraft 162 S30V or the Bark River Fox River LT Elmax

The small knife in the 2nd pic will do it all except for sawing one in half lengthwise. That's about what I use. I might be hard put to keep on buying the small racks of full meat chops to smoke did I live where I had pigs to shoot regular. I could make an exception for little piggies and saw them out I suppose. We have no feral pigs up here though, so when pork chops are on the menu I buy whole boneless loins. Lately, Sams Club has been selling Smithfield racks of ribs with the backstraps in place and off of maybe 60-80lb piggies. I just buy them, rub 'em up and into the smoker they go.

I've also got a Cold Steel Mini Pendleton Hunter I like to use quite a bit. Good steel, easy to sharpen, and holds its edge well. The small rubber handle is easy for me to hang on to, when my hands are good and bloody. I think they run about $43 bucks.

I've given all of my nephews one when they shot their first deer at the Ranch. I'd always gut their first deer with it for them. Then I'd hand them the knife and tell them they get to do the next one they shoot.

Fireball is a nice touch lol

Gw
What's the stutzen in the first pic? Also, love the orange crush combo in the second. Nice lanyards!

That's a Merkel K3 Jagd Stutzen.




That particular rifle is chambered for the 308 Winchester.





Ya,

If you recall, I have a number of your lanyards on different knives!














I find them to be very handy!

ya!

GWB

As an example.

I shot this pig. Course he would flop in the mud!




So when you're poking a hole in his leaders in order to get a strap thru to pull him out, it's mighty handy to have a lanyard when ya' drop your blade in the mud and it sinks. The orange kinda stands out!



Lucky i had a lanyard!





not trying to beat it to death, but at 66 my thumb joints are worn out. My grip ain't what it used to be. Kydex, and wet formed leather pouch style sheaths where you have about an inch or so of purchase can make it somewhat difficult to draw the knife. I find that the knots on the lanyard are an aid.


ya!


GWB

I bought a Spyderco Moran for a buddy and helped him skin a couple deer with it. I was pretty impressed. I can't think of a better option under a hundred bucks

Who made the sheaths? They are awesome

Another vote for the Buck Vanguard.

I like KOA's D2 knives too.

My two favorite KOA's, both D2



Yukon Belt Knife,




ULU


In fact I liked the YBK so much I had Gary Dukeman recreate one in D2



I liked it enough that when he showed me his "Oklahoma Belt Knife, I grabbed it!



ya!

GWB

Passport,

The sheaths are by Larry Parsons,

http://www.parsonssaddleshop.com/

Larry is also on facebook.

ya!


GWB

There are a lot of good knives out there but I would probably default to a Buck. Last Wednesday before dark I killed two doe whitetails. I gutted, skinned, and quartered them with my Dad's old 110 that I sent back to Buck to have the blade replaced. I cut through the sternums. I did not have to stop at any point to sharpen it. When I started in had a fresh shaving edge and when I finished, it would still drag on arm hair and try to shave. I freshened up the edge quite easily in about 5 minutes on a Soft Arkansas yesterday afternoon. Its ready for more mayhem. I think Bucks hold an edge well enough for anything I'll ever need to do, sharpen easily, and are dirt cheap for what you get.

Production knife?

It will probably have Japanese steel and/or mfg on it.

Forgot about koa, they're another great option for the money. They did good with the d2

One of my favorite fixed blade "production" knives



Cold Steel "Outdoorsman".

This knife is always in my kit as was the one that preceded it, which I lost somehow somewhere.

I use it for breaking briskets an removing entrails!




Junglee, and Cold Steel!



and a Cold Steel Master Hunter, w/ guthook, Carbon V. Used it for a number of years before I started collecting customs.

ya!

GWB

Seems all Jap sourced steel.

I've been using the hell out of one of these Mora's and they're pretty hard to beat.

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Mol...7114&sr=8-3&keywords=mora+knives

Agree with Travis Davis Clarke on the Mora.

Stupid good for the money.

Mora knives have to be the best bang for the buck out there.
I picked up a 511 for my son's first "real" knife.I like the guard for the kiddo but it kinda gets in my way.
My favorite is the 510

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Allround-3-75-Inch-Carbon/dp/B00KIT3KR8

These two are pretty decent for factory offerings, Kershaw gentleman's folder and Moki Banf





Both VG-10 blades and under $100. Don't know why Kershaw discontinued the 1993.

Thanks for that link Gdub . . .Larry is right next door in Mustang. Think I'll go see him.

I have to agree with the Moras. I have bought several and their value far exceeds what I pay for them. I also like the other scandi brands like Kellam Puukko, Marttiini, and Helle.

That Moki intrigues me.

Like I need another fugkin' knife... Thanks, a-hole.




Dave

Glad I could enable. I forget who tipped me about the moki. Not quite the fit and finish of a custom blade, but a useful grind and good steel. The handle is sized more for girl hands, so I'm sure you'll love it.

I'm used to skinny and short.

Should be a perfect match.





Clark

I use a Vicky.
GFY.

Vicky

Not high production, but a fantastic knife by a real craftsman, Dave kauffman. I posted this a few years ago and Rick Menefee had a conniption fit. Oh well, it is a real nice knife...

Love the old Cold Steels GW. I've got quite a few of them.

I'd use the Buck 103, the "Skinner".

Like mine also

If you were hawkin' "real craftsman" of the knife trade with the offered example, I am glad Rick spoke up.

I believe that I have one, still in the blister pack. Brother gave it to me for Christmas, many years back.

For the OP question, D.H. Russell Bird n Trout or KOA Cub.

Hard to beat for the money. I just picked one up for 63 bucks from LL Bean (25% off coupon)

Fox River LT has thinner blade than regular Bark River

Something from Bark River....classic drop-point or Canadian skinner should do the trick.

Buck made a knife years ago called a selector... I think. You could change blades by depressing the locking mechanism on it and change from a serrated, drop point, or a saw... liked it so much was quite distraught when I couldn't find it. Went out, found another and bought it. Found the original....now I have 2. Love them. They work well for what I need. Also have a 110... and thanks to you guys several customs. 2 from Gene Ingram with a third due around the 1st of the year... so thanks.
whislpig

This is a good production knife. Good ol 1095 steel too.

Might be a little hard to find these days though.

I have a Case version of this.

I bought a Gerber Gator S30V fixed blade from Cabela's that I really like and recently, a Buck 103 skinner, I like both equally well.

Well before I became a knife snob I ran KOA and cold steel

That’s cool..

Big game for me is whitetail deer - I own several production knives but mainly use the Buck 118 Personal from gutting to skinning to butchering the meat. I do prefer the older versions with 440C steel - the edge lasts longer but is tougher to re-apply.

Agreed......I retired my old Estwing when the Vanguard came out back in the 80's.
I piled up a lot of memories with it and that little 102 over the years.

The blade profile is so much better on the 192 Vanguard for removing back straps.

I didn't know they changed it.

I've gutless skinned a lot of game with that old Vanguard without any problem though. I love that knife.

I have a nice puma knife , about 20 years old or a 75th anniversary Buck 119

For cheap no frills user. Cold steel Pendleton lite. $15.

I hacked the belt clip off to carry in my orange vest pocket.

Growing up, my Dad liked and used Buck knives so that's the route I took buying my first knives. Years later, I have a couple drawers full of mostly production and a handful of handmade knives. The knife I tend to use most in the field these days is a KOA Alpha Wolf in S30V with the rubber non-slip grip. To answer the original question regarding purchasing "either a commercially produced knife or semi-commercial", today it would be another Alpha Wolf in D2 with either G10 or stag scales just to try something different.

I've never liked carrying a fixed blade knife while hunting. Always much preferred just sticking a folder in my pocket. I have a bunch of "folding hunters" including a Buck 110 and 112, an uncle Henry LB7, a couple of Old Timers, an old Puma 970 "Game Warden", a two blade Case "folding hunter" and an old FRN handled Parker. My favorites of those are the Puma and Parker because they're big enough to get the job done, hold a razor sharp edge reasonably long and are considerably slimmer and lighter than the Bucks and Schrades. If I had to buy a new one I'd get another Puma, either the Game Warden or the stag handled Prince.

You'd pay $150 for a knife with 440a steel (Prince)?

I received a Buck 118 recently. If a guy wanted one knife to field dress, skin, quarter, and debone a deer this would be a good candidate

What steels are available for the 118?

420HC and 5160 right now. You might be able to find D2

I agree on the 118 but you need to be careful with that swept up point. It can get you in trouble in the body cavity. BTDT. I really like my 116 for gutting and the 118 for everything else. Being able to run them through the dish washer guilt free don't hurt either.

Yes, the up-swept tip could lead to trouble in the gutting process........haven't BTDT put can certainly see the issue. Only time I've had that "trouble" was when rushing to get the job done.

If the upswept tip bothers you, take a belt sander to it.....

My 118 I just bought has D2.;) Knifecenter. 62.94 tyd

Thanks, just ordered one

Me 3.Thanks for the heads up

Anyone used a case lite hunter?

I'd just keep using my old 105 and 110.

Case xxChanger. I have had this one for many years. It handles anything you want.

For pure hunting and skinning an old Western Knives 88 in a Marbles Woodcraft design.
[img]https://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-hf5q...5680618.1517267375-2068126535.1513620483[/img]
Great steel, holds an edge and great skinner.

Bug-Out kit a UTK 0200 8: battle axe in 1095 steel.
[img]https://fitzwillies.com/manage/products/132/edit[/img]
A brute that can do it all.

All around knife knife, survival, hunting, defensive, SOG NW Ranger in AUS 8 steel.
[img]https://fitzwillies.com/manage/products/141/edit[/img]

You can never have just one knife.

I've been looking at some pretty nice knives from both ESEE and The Bushcraft Store, and was wondering: for general skinning, deboning, etc., other than difference in sharpening, is there any grind preference for that kind of work? All seem to come with either the standard bevel grind or scandi grind.

I had mis-placed my Boker Kalashnikov Auto for about a week. I hate to be without an auto EDC. When I spied this it was lust at first sight. The fact that i got it for about 60% of MSRP made it irresistable to a knife-slut such as I.


ya!


GWB









ya!


GWB

I've owned this Gerber bolt action knife since 1984. It has 3 blades (drop point, gut hook and saw). It has seen a lot of work

Shazztastic, Ya...

Caught an Emerson flavored Protech, on Thursday.

Vickies always score tens in my book...for something more all around Benchmade Grippies or Buck 110/112 Drop points in S30V are the tops currently IME... But then, maybe ME is behind the curve...