For whitetails, I always carry my dad's Old Timer Sharpfinger. I remember when he got the knife so he didn't have to pack his old monster sized Buck 119. He's been gone for 6 years this month, but his knife will be with my son and I on Saturday morning...
Nothing like a leather man and a Kauffman #15. The Kauffman cuts everything but bone, the Leatherman opens the brisket, even on elk, it is all you need..
I have so many knifes i never use the same one from season to season. My favorite field dressing knife is the Wyoming Knife. I do prefer one with the Gut Hook tho.
Varies from hunt to hunt. I hate for one (or a pair) to feel neglected for very long. ...and I just like to use different knives! The two different pairs below are the ones I use the most.
I use this pair (Yellow Jacket and #1 Semi) from Gene quite a bit:
I use this pair (Slitter and B&T II) from Charlie quite a bit as well:
First year to use this one, a Flat Rock Scandi by Charlie May. I'm really liking it.
Very often just use a $1.99 florist's pruning knife. Good for a couple of field dressings then chuck it. Often times just whatever pocket knife I happen to be using daily although I prefer a straight blade. Sometimes a D.H. Russell #1 or bird and trout, CRKT or Knives Of Alaska or... Knives, can't have too many good ones.
Today, Gerber LST in my pocket. IF I carry a knife on my belt, it's a Gerber magnum LST. Sometimes that goes in my pack, otherwise either one of the skeletonized Buck fixed blades or a rubber handled Vanguard.
At various times in the past I've carried a "first generation" Gerber LMF without serrations, Buck folding hunter / Special / General, a couple small Browning knives, some off brand stuff, swiss army knives.
I'm not really particular. If I can put an edge on it and it holds that edge through gutting and skinning a deer, it's good enough. Today I lean towards lighter knives over heavier if the functionality is the same for my uses. That Gerber LMF remains one of my favorite knives of all time but I don't carry it anymore.
Buck 110 gets the nod more often than others. Buck 112 does a good job as well, although I like the extra length of the 110. This year for my wife's moose, I broke in a new Buck 113, it did a good job, BUT it has more of a skinning blade which I am not used to.
This weekend, I'm going to take out an old Shrade 1250. The bucks are just starting to run here, MAN I LOVE THIS TIME OF YEAR!!
I dislike folders for carcass work so I generally carry a German made fixed blade Linder, either the bottom knife in the pic below, which I is in 440C or the Super Edge 2 which is a essentially the same knife in ATS34 steel and with a synthetic handle.
The other knife I have started using which has turned out to be very handy is the Mora Roeing knife below.
Its cheap as chips but the small blade takes an excellent edge and the ball tip makes gralloching, and the initial cuts when skinning, a breeze.
This is the one I carry most. Not just for deer hunting, but nearly everything else too. I forged the blade of 1095 and the handle is ash. It is starting to show some age...
This is one of the two knives I am using while hunting this year. The steel is CPMS30V and the stag is Sambar. I also use it fishing and any other time I feel like I might need a sharp knife. Great utility shape blade.
My brother and I make knives under the label of Twin Blades and this is one of our standard models. It has a stiff, flat ground blade with a thin edge. The tang is tapered and the stag is also ground thin. Makes into a nice handling knife that is easy to use and look at. I actually have this one in a pouch sheath along with a set of pliers and it stays with me when I am on the farm. Please excuse the photo, the knife doesn't look that blurry in person. I'm trying to get acclimated to a new camera and am not there yet.
This and a Buck Trapper in my pocket that was a gift years ago from a friend who has since passed.
I own a bunch of very nice knives, from standard Case Bros., to Winston customs, to original Marbles. For some reason, I always end up with the old Buck 110 on my side and the trapper in my pocket.
Case Trapper with carbon blades and a little bone saw are all I use these days to get a deer skinned and gutted. I use a fillet knife for boning and trimming.
A Buck 110 is a fine knife at a great price as is the little fixed blade they call the "woodsman".
It does not really take much of a knife to work over a deer as long as it is nice and sharp and feels good to your hand. You don't have to spend hundreds of dollars unless it makes you happy.
Some of the knives in this thread are so nice I would not want to get them dirty!
I just carry an Owls Head large trapper,or an old Gator.My dad always carried an old Case xx,or an old K-Bar fixed blade.I still use them for skinning,but I don't like wearing a belt knife.
It is always one of two: a Randall #26 pathfinder or a KOA alpha wolf. The drop point shape of both knives are similar and are in that not to big- not too small size range. I also have a couple of Schrade D'Holder knives with similar blades that I also like a lot, one with stag which I have used and one maple one still NIB.
Victorinox Camper Model Swiss Army knife. Gave it the Gun Shield treatment a couple years ago and 99% of the blood, fat, etc., just slides off with a wipe on grass or anything else handy.
Been carrying one of these since the mid-1970s. The original disappeared after butchering an elk in the field about 15 years ago. The new one is just as good.
I've carried a a Buck 110 folding hunter since the early 80's. However, I'm thinking of leaving it home and carrying a Ka-Bar Dozier like this.
I bought a similar one on one of y'all's endorsement about 10 years ago for Mooseboy. Since then, I have really grown to like it. The blade shape is better for being up inside a deer, and it stays sharp through more than one gut job. It is also much less bulky in a pack. For the past couple of seasons, I've had this one in my cleaning kit and done the bulk of my gut jobs with it.
I have to say however, the 110 is still the knife I can sharpen the best. It stays wickedly sharp through season.
This is a very slightly reshaped paring knife out of VG-10. 3-1/2 inches long. Stays razor sharp forever. Walnut I had in the stock building drawer. It cuts better than anything I have used before, just like the other VG-10 blades I have for butchering.
I have gutted, skinned and quartered 7 deer with it so far and it's still sharp as ever.
Grohmann Deepwoods Hunter, takes an edge easily and holds it very well. I highly recommend any Grohmann knife, for those looking to add a stylish and functional knife at a reasonable price.
Victorinox Camper Model Swiss Army knife. Gave it the Gun Shield treatment a couple years ago and 99% of the blood, fat, etc., just slides off with a wipe on grass or anything else handy.
For all of you interested:
The best there is, bar none-----
Walker Wax on your knives, Obenaufs on your sheaths.
Somewhete I have a buck fixed blade with a guthook, but it's vanished from the knife drawer. I carry my dad's old fixed blade case for sentimental reasons, but I also carry an Outdoor Edge combo pak with a smal bone saw and a swing blaze in my pack
An old Gerber folder that stays kickazz sharp. And last year I broke down and bought a Morseth out of a pawn shop here that is a great traditional knife. Laminated blade. It's purely an indulgence as my Gerber and a locally made b&t knife have served me well for years. Great steel in both of them.
This, hands down the best thing to ever come along.
Especially when I've taken two complete moose apart only with one of these. And a couple of blades.
I guess I could get a fancy one to carry on the belt though, just to look good.
Survival knife situation is different though.
Why? What does a wimpy assed little Chinese thro-away blade have on a real knife? Nothing, IMO. I'm certain I would break it. If you can't sharpen a knife, or use it for small fur-bearers, I could see it being an asset. But for big game? Why? Plus it has NO SOUL....
I carried this Marbles knife in good old 1095 steel tonight. It's hair shaving sharp. Nothing too special, but if you want to compare a Havalon to it, for use on big game, I'm LMAO.....
This, hands down the best thing to ever come along.
Especially when I've taken two complete moose apart only with one of these. And a couple of blades.
I guess I could get a fancy one to carry on the belt though, just to look good.
Survival knife situation is different though.
Why? What does a wimpy assed little Chinese thro-away blade have on a real knife? Nothing, IMO. I'm certain I would break it. If you can't sharpen a knife, or use it for small fur-bearers, I could see it being an asset. But for big game? Why? Plus it has NO SOUL....
SOUL has zero to do with using a knife. But if you want to thats cool.
I"m just utilitarian and use what works best for me.
I"ve seen all kinds of blades snapped over years of guiding, by idiots. YOu can even snap these blades if you don't pay attention. I did 2 weeks ago in a hurry. Hadn't done that in a long time.
BUT if my little wimpy assed Havalon can take a moose all the way down to skinned, gutted, quartered, deboned, caped, etc with no help... its more than enough for me. Cheap enough.
And while you are sharpening I"m further down the road.
I will admit I had a Randal that I was given to use and I made a few swipes on the last moose on the skin part of it, until it was dull. And put it away. I"d used it. Its a nice knife from a friend. I was not impressed and went back to what works best for me.
It may have to do that I was a taxidermist for years though too... I know how to use blades, and how not to use blades probably at least as well as the average person...and I find that cumulative time sharpening can be used for other more enjoyable tasks.
But like I said, I never fault anyone for their choice, but all means if it works. I'm just happy someone was smart enough to make a folder that fit the long autopsy blades... so I could quit carrying long fixed blade scalpel handles.
And I don't know a guiding buddy of mine that hasn't quit using other knives once they used this type.... Have 5 or 6 that use them exclusively on coastal brown bears... that says enough for me. Especailly when guides recieve all the top knives as tips/gifts.
A Buck Companion in my pocket and a Cutco serrated blade drop point w/florescent orange handle on my belt w/sheath stuck in a back pocket. The Cutco has a leather loop tying it to the sheath.- Muddy
Woodson: I always carry a Buck Model 317. This knife is a folding model and has two blades that are right at 4" long. This models thicker blade can easily "saw" through the sternum (rib cage) of a Deer for ease of cleaning - with a two hand hold on the handle. Then the more slender 4" blade is PERFECT for reaming and removing the digestive tract outlet of Deer (and Elk!). Several other knife makers have EXACT "copies" of this versatile knife including Puma, Case, Schrade and Sears as well as a couple other lesser known makers. With the two blades of this model I always have a razor sharp blade in case I wish to do some caping or another animal. This nifty knife will fit in a pocket but anymore I carry it on my belt in a custom sheath as they do not come with a sheath from Buck. Hold into the wind VarmintGuy
I carry a bark river bravo 1.5 for my survival, a GREAT and CHEAP havalon for skinning, caping and gutting. But when the carcass gets back i pull out my butchers belt with my forschner butcher knives as i have been a professional butcher for 16 years.
Since I first posted in this thread I gave myself a new knife for my birthday. This one was made by Mike Miller, Don't know what model he calls it, But it's the best knife I've owned by far.
Top is a Mora that goes with me in my pack anytime I'm anywhere in the woods. Kind of my 'emergency' bush knife (hence, the accoutrements on he sheath). I've got its twin in Carbon steel and it worked great for this impromptu little task...
Took the bottom two hunting this year as my friends don't know what a good (or sharp) knife is...
Got the Dozier this summer and REALLY wanted to try it out but no dice (or deer)... I'm wondering how the handle will feel and work when coated with blood?
Mojo, Having used a lot of Dozier knives and micarta over the years I can tell you, the handle will be just fine. In fact, to me micarta is just a bit tacky/sticky feeling when wet.
I'm a big fan of the folding lock back design originated by BUCK model 110. It's still a top choice for me due to edge retention and sturdy construction.
I'm a fan of the Canadian Belt Knife profile and this has done really well. It replaced a Blind Horse Nessmuk that was stolen out of my truck in 2012. I'm STILL mad about that!
Buck 110. I love the shape of the blade. Had one for 25 years and lost it in the leaves after gutting a deer. Got another one and left it on the bumper of my truck, but I had my kid sit on the tailgate and back tracked and found it in the field and still have it. I use it for gutting and skinning. Then I use a Dexter 6" flexible boner to cut it up and bone it.
My Buddy Sharpsguy made me a custom Damascus skinning knife, being as he knows how much I like muslims he outfitted it with a set of camel leg bone handles, I cut up and eat the critters I skin with it at the dinner table too.
I almost always carry a kukri and a decent general purpose skinning knife, in my day pack,along with a small game hoist /block & tackle and diamond hone pocket sharpener plus lots of 2 gallon ziploc bags. theres no way in my opinion that a single small knife can perform all the chores,youll occasionally need, while out in the boonies,youll find you need an AXE, a hatchet, tomahawk or kukri for some projects
My daily carry, a serrated Buck 442 folder, and a fixed blade, probably a Harvey King Small Game, #2, or #8 depending on the mood. There is a Buck Pathfinder, Style # 105, and a Sagan Saw in the field-dressing kit that I keep in my hunting pack.
Whaaap Nice knife by Doug. He is one of the country's premier blade smiths. I saw his 500th knife that he just finished. WOW. One of those 5 figure knives. Have you been to his shop or one of the other Scagel makers in the area??? Tim
Have several and switch around but the most used is a western folder w composit handle similar in size to a Buck 110. Cheap but effective. Lately I have been carrying a boker copy of a dozier drop point.
Old case western my dad gave me when I was 12... straight 4" clip fixed blade. Occasionally my dad kinfolks 380 for sentimental reasons...
Recently Bought a bark river Gunny hunter (?) to get a high grade of steel...
Bought a Tyler May drop point this winter because it looked nice.
To sum it up... All of them,except the Kinfolks, is about the size of a buck 110 in a clip or drop point config. I have a 110 and would tell people to buy them as long as you are not splitting pelvic bones. Thats what saws are for.
Remington Big Game - damn thing stays nice and sharp and the guthook opens 'em like a zipper. I also used a large sized blaze orange Beretta Airlight but managed to loose the dang thing on a late season hunt.
I've got a crude old hand made straight blade that came out of a piece of tool steel that was liberated from the Sheet and Tube mill in Youngstown, Ohio about 100 years ago. It's been in our family for all that time, passed down to my father, to me, and eventually to my son. The sheath doesn't match the knife, and it's not a very pretty thing, but it works fine for gutting deer and stays very sharp. Never saw the need to put all most as much money in a knife as I do on my rifles.
I enjoy good cutlery and axes. Over the years have had the opportunity to use many fine knives both fixed and folders. Field dressed Deer with both as well as small game and birds. So far have not settled on one knife and tend to rotate field work through my collection. Last Fall I carried this Menefee made knife.
My best friend growing up's dad gave me this Estwing when I was in high school in the mid 60's. I carried it with pride for about 25yrs.
Then I bought a Buck Vanguard when they first came out (late 80's IIRC).
Now days I just shoot a meat Deer from the porch every year or two (usually a fawn ) so I use what's handy. This year it was an old carbon steel Northwoods B&T. Love that little knife.
Oh,,,,, and for the guys arguing about the Havalons. I've skinned furbearers all my life, have a shoebox full of skinning knives, and think the Havalon Piranta a friend gifted me is the best thing since they put pockets on shirts, but no way would I go hunting big game with nothing but that in my pocket. It might be handy to have along but that's about it. They'll spoil ya in the fur shed though.
Buck 110 Aluminum-handled old Gerber fixed blade Buck Personal
I have a little Gerber folder that came with my Danners a long while back and is probably my favorite, but I've recently come to like an Opinel #6 with a walnut handle.
probably got a 100 but I find myself using an old John Primble 2 bladed big folder that was given to me to me by a friend in 1965. Very easy to sharpen and holds a great edge..
Had a Schrade fold up on me unexpectedly. I still pack a Case Blade Exchanger as my primary field duty knife. It is the most positive engaging locking folder I own. I trust it with my fingers.
Used a Buck 110 for 30 years, then started using a Buck Vanguard from Cabelas with the S30V steel, excellent and really stays sharp.
Now I am using a Leatherman TI - The Leatherman's main blade is made of S30V steel too, it has an good saw and even a gut hook as part of the utility blade.
You can get a Buck 110/112 from the Buck Custom shop with S30V and your choice of handle and bolster materials for surprisingly little money. Just an FYI...
It wouldn't seem like a hunt if I didn't have to sharpen my Buck during skinning/quartering.
It's part of the whole hunting experience.
It ain't gonna win any points with knife snobs but Buck does a very nice job with their 440. If you can't get through a deer or a big mess of fish without your Buck knife going dull chances are it is your "honing skills" that are the problem and not the knife. Likely, your honing is creating and leaving a wire edge or burr that is snapping off which is costing you the performance of your knife. If you get a "better" knife, and use the same technique to sharpen it, you won't get all out of that one that you could either.
It wouldn't seem like a hunt if I didn't have to sharpen my Buck during skinning/quartering.
It's part of the whole hunting experience.
It ain't gonna win any points with knife snobs but Buck does a very nice job with their 440. If you can't get through a deer or a big mess of fish without your Buck knife going dull chances are it is your "honing skills" that are the problem and not the knife. Likely, your honing is creating and leaving a wire edge or burr that is snapping off which is costing you the performance of your knife. If you get a "better" knife, and use the same technique to sharpen it, you won't get all out of that one that you could either.
You're assuming i'm starting with a freshly sharpened knife. I like to sharpen in the field at the kill, so I might already have two animals skinned out when I sharpen it. I know how to sharpen a knife. Been doing it for 60 years.
It wouldn't seem like a hunt if I didn't have to sharpen my Buck during skinning/quartering.
It's part of the whole hunting experience.
It ain't gonna win any points with knife snobs but Buck does a very nice job with their 440. If you can't get through a deer or a big mess of fish without your Buck knife going dull chances are it is your "honing skills" that are the problem and not the knife. Likely, your honing is creating and leaving a wire edge or burr that is snapping off which is costing you the performance of your knife. If you get a "better" knife, and use the same technique to sharpen it, you won't get all out of that one that you could either.
You're assuming i'm starting with a freshly sharpened knife.
Sure was! I thought you were jumping on the Buck knives are "useless" and have to be sharpened constantly bandwagon. They only do if you don't do it right.
If you can't get through a deer or a big mess of fish without your Buck knife going dull chances are it is your "honing skills" that are the problem and not the knife.
Absolutely true.
He just needs to learn how to sharpen a knife.
To prove it.....just send it back to Buck for sharpening.
When you get it back you'll be so happy to have an actual SHARP knife.
If you can't get through a deer or a big mess of fish without your Buck knife going dull chances are it is your "honing skills" that are the problem and not the knife.
Absolutely true.
He just needs to learn how to sharpen a knife.
To prove it.....just send it back to Buck for sharpening.
When you get it back you'll be so happy to have an actual SHARP knife.
Good grief! Read my response to that post. I can sharpen a knife as well as anybody.
As I suggested previously.....send one in to Buck for a proper sharpening and see how long it STAYS sharp once truly sharpened.
Ok, i'll explain again. I'm sort of old school, and have done things the same for many decades. Instead of starting a hunt with a sharp knife. I just sharpen it when it starts to get a little dull. I've done this since I was a kid, and got used to sharpening my knives in the field. As I mentioned earlier it's a bit of a ritual with me. It's how my dad did it, and I just copied everything he did. As kids will do. So, I always have a couple of stones with me to touch up an edge. I may have an elk and muley on the knife before I touch it up. Maybe more, maybe less. If I would start off a hunt with a freshly sharpened knife I wouldn't have to sharpen it in the field at all.
Like I said at the start of all this. I like the ritual of sharpening my knives at the kill. Strange for some, but normal for me. It puts a smile on my face, because it always brings back good memories of past hunts. Especially, with my dad who has long passed away.
SOUL has zero to do with using a knife. But if you want to thats cool.
I"m just utilitarian and use what works best for me.
I"ve seen all kinds of blades snapped over years of guiding, by idiots. YOu can even snap these blades if you don't pay attention. I did 2 weeks ago in a hurry. Hadn't done that in a long time.
BUT if my little wimpy assed Havalon can take a moose all the way down to skinned, gutted, quartered, deboned, caped, etc with no help... its more than enough for me. Cheap enough.
And while you are sharpening I"m further down the road.
Pretty much sums it up. There's a reason hundreds of elk guides use Havalon knives. I saw a guide at a show two years ago who had two Havalons on his table. I asked him what he thought of them, and he said the previous season he wanted to see how far he could go with one blade. He skinned one bison and X elk on one blade. If I told you the number it would strain credulity. He did use a steel to keep the edge up, but it was a pretty impressive feat, nonetheless.
Besides that, think about a guide's priorities. He wants something that works, not something that has "soul" (whatever that is). He wants to take weight off because he's walking miles in rough country with a load of meat on his back. So rather than take two or three knives with "soul," plus tools to resharpen them, he takes a Havalon with a few extra blades. Saves time. Saves energy. Saves money.
When his clients saw him using the Havalon, they all wanted one, so he became a dealer and buys enough to resell to clients. The two he had on his table were what he had left from the previous season.
I carry a Havalon every day. And by the way, the blades are not made in China. They are surgical scalpels, and they are made in India, the same place where the blades are made that your doctor uses to operate on your gut. If that makes a difference to you, I suppose you could ask your doctor to use an American-made knife with soul. Good luck with that.
A couple of incidental facts: 1. I know several doctors who hunt, and all of them use surgical scalpels for field dressing and skinning. So do all the taxidermists I know. They just want something that works. 2. A few other companies have capitalized on the Havalon idea, and are trying to compete against them. But Havalon's parent company, Havels, is a medical supply company and the blade Havalon uses is proprietary. It's better than the standard scalpel blades others use. It's more resistant to breaking and more user-friendly. (The pictured Havalon knife earlier in this thread is not wearing the Havalon proprietary blade.)
As far as the Havalons, I watched a guy break one cleaning a small whitetail. He was only cutting meat, no abuse, and he was lucky he realized the blade had broken, before it cut him.
I have a question for those who use a Havalon. In the above post a guide did a whole bison, and xelk. Not sure what xelk mean, but i'm thinking more than one.
So, if he can do that with one blade. What advantage does he have from any other sharp knife? If you're not changing blades, it's like any other knife.
I have a question for those who use a Havalon. In the above post a guide did a whole bison, and xelk. Not sure what xelk mean, but i'm thinking more than one.
So, if he can do that with one blade. What advantage does he have from any other sharp knife? If you're not changing blades, it's like any other knife.
Just curious.
Pretty simple, really. Yes, X (which stands for an unknown quantity in algebra) elk means more than one elk skinned. The guide's point was not to show a person needs only one Havalon blade. He was testing a single blade's longevity and durability, not attempting to prove extra blades are superfluous. Just as a hunter would carry more than one knife on a remote hunt in case he lost the knife, broke the blade, or had some other mishap, one would carry more than one Havalon/blade on a hunt.
The advantage is a significant weight reduction without compromising quality of the cutting edge. In fact, being "scalpel sharp" is another advantage. Many people may claim to be able to sharpen a knife edge to the sharpness of a surgical scalpel, but in reality almost no one can actually do it.
My sister gave me a 4 pin BUCK 110 on my sixteenth birthday. That was 46 years and a hundred plus deer ago. I was a butchers helper in high school so it is and stays sharp.
My sister gave me a 4 pin BUCK 110 on my sixteenth birthday. That was 46 years and a hundred plus deer ago. I was a butchers helper in high school so it is and stays sharp.
You're a bit off on the years. The 4 dot started in 81.
Yes, I know. Just my way of asking how many elk it was? I've read guys who can't even get through a deer without changing blades.
The guide was sharpening the blade, so i'm not sure we're talking apples to apples.
Actually the guide was not sharpening the blade. He was steeling the blade. A steel is often called a "sharpening" steel, but it is mis-named. It does not sharpen a knife. High magnification will show that during use a knife edge becomes mis-shapen, folds over, and otherwise loses its fine edge with minimal steel being worn away. The steel does not re-sharpen in the sense that it removes steel. It simply returns the edge -- "restores" or "realigns" are perhaps the best words -- to its straight, fine characteristic.
The same thing can be done on the edge of a car door window, or the edge of a stainless steel table. In fact, too many knives made from good steel are sharpened when they don't need it -- all they need is someone who knows how to work an edge with a steel. Using a steel should not be considered a method of sharpening. It is a method of finishing -- or refinishing -- a sharp edge.
Every knife user would benefit from knowing how to use a steel. Not only will his knife remain sharper for longer, the knife will last longer because less steel will be worn away in resharpening.
The fact that he used a steel is disclosed precisely so one can make an apples to apples comparison.
To your first comment about guys who can't get through a deer without dulling a knife -- you are right. It pays to know how to use a knife. Cut from the inside of the critter. Do not cut hair. Do not use the tip as a wedge. Do not run the edge against bone. Many people do not use such care, and they'll dull any knife.
I notice some talk about the Buck knives being hard to sharpen. It depends a lot on the age of your knife.
In Buck knives, the steels went thus.....
Before 1981.---440C 1981 to 1993.--425M 1993-----420HC
The 440C was exceedingly hard steel and a lot of people had trouble with it. The 425M was a little better and the current 420HC is excellent in that it's not too hard to sharpen but still holds the edge for a long time.
It's always better to touch a blade up a bit now and then and keep it sharp rather than let it get really dull.
That's what "sharpening steels" are all about, by the way.....they are used to KEEP a sharp edge as butchers cut meat all day--not to CREATE a sharp edge.
Anyway, in 1981 the Buck knives became a little bit easier to sharpen and in 1993 the knives became quite a lot easier to sharpen.
Yes, any real cook, or butcher will tell you the value of steeling the blade.
Can we agree that it does restore sharpness to the edge compared to not doing it?
We can if we understand the difference between steeling and sharpening. Strictly speaking though, steeling is not restoring the sharpness to the edge; it's restoring the edge. Sharpening is removing material to create a new edge. Yes, a subtle difference, but meaningful.
I wonder how many people actually use a steel. Not many -- I'd bet the percentage is in the single digits. But then, lot of people don't even sharpen. I've probably talked to hundreds of well-intentioned people who leave that task to the evening before the deer season opens, and never get around to it. Some don't really even know how to sharpen a knife. Thus the market for a sharp, replaceable blade.
This is a very good video on the proper use of a steel. Everyone should have a steel in the kitchen along with a nylon or hardwood cutting board. My knives never go into a sink. Can't say the same about the other beaters that go into the drawer.
You're right, and that gets more confusing. Buck used left over drilled handles, and converted them to more or less pins. It's really hard to pinpoint a year made by the pins. Markings on the blade are more reliable, and accurate.
Some say the 4 pin started in 82, but that is probably wrong. Mine is a 3 pin, and I know it was built in 81.
I know what they are. It's more complicated than just 4 pin. It's the location of the brass and steel pins, and the pattern. Mine is a 4 dot 3 pin. Which came before the 4 pin.
You ask this on the Buck forum, and you'll get many different answers.
Anyway, it's not that important. They're all 110's.
Yes, any real cook, or butcher will tell you the value of steeling the blade.
Can we agree that it does restore sharpness to the edge compared to not doing it?
We can if we understand the difference between steeling and sharpening. Strictly speaking though, steeling is not restoring the sharpness to the edge; it's restoring the edge. Sharpening is removing material to create a new edge. Yes, a subtle difference, but meaningful.
I wonder how many people actually use a steel. Not many -- I'd bet the percentage is in the single digits. But then, lot of people don't even sharpen. I've probably talked to hundreds of well-intentioned people who leave that task to the evening before the deer season opens, and never get around to it. Some don't really even know how to sharpen a knife. Thus the market for a sharp, replaceable blade.
Steve.
Though I understand how they work I have never used a steel. Probably should pick one up and give it a try just to learn something new. In place of one, I currently use an ultra fine stone (hard translucent Arkansas). I have found that if I don't destroy an edge, I can maintain it, or more technically correct, resharpen it indefinitely with little effort before I have to go to a coarse stone. The stone does remove a little metal compared to a steel, but very little. A steel would be better for a guy cutting all day...that is why butchers and cooks use them.
The disposable knives have a lot going for them, especially for people who do not have an emotional attachment to knives and just want to cut stuff. Getting back to edge retention, if anyone thinks a Buck or comparable price point knife is trash, compare one to a disposable blade when it comes to heat treat and quality of steel. The disposable is likely made from the cheapest possible steel in a Chinese factory with basic heat treating, probably very "soft", but people are saying that they retain their edge a long time. Why is this, how can it be? IMO the reason is that they start out with a perfectly apexed and burr free edge created by a machine....probably some kind of laser. No wires or weak spots to snap off. Unless you roll the edge by hitting something hard or abrade it by cutting something dirty, it will last a long time, especially for what it is. In other words the steel probably ain't much but the edge is perfection.
Few people if any can duplicate that, even those that know what they are doing, much less the typical guy that leaves the wire edge on his knife after sharpening. When you consider the fact that good sharpening stones are far from cheap plus you have to know how to use them, it is easy to see why hunters are liking these knives. I probably won't ever use them because I like knives and fooling with them almost as much as I like rifles, but I can't knock them.
I have used the Spyderco ceramic triangle stick set your years. It creates a much finer edge that a kitchen steel, and it has a built in angle which produces much more consistent results with less wear on the blade. One thing not shown in the video is to take a couple a backward strokes to straighten the edge first.
When you consider the fact that good sharpening stones are far from cheap plus you have to know how to use them, it is easy to see why hunters are liking these knives. I probably won't ever use them because I like knives and fooling with them almost as much as I like rifles, but I can't knock them.
You gave two reasons why hunters gravitate toward disposable blades: 1. Good sharpening equipment is not cheap. 2. You have to know how to use whatever tool you choose.
I'll add a third: 3. The majority of hunters on opening day are carrying a fairly dull knife, even if they have sharpened it. (See point two.)
With an inexpensive, but high quality surgical scalpel on your knife, and without an emotional attachment to your knife, it's no wonder Havalon knives have become so popular.
A high quality American-made knife, especially a custom knife, is a beautiful thing and there are many reasons to have and use one. In fact, you don't even need a reason to use one other than you like it. But anyone says it's the only way to go is a bit of knife snob, similar to the optics snobs we see so many of. As RJY66 said, we don't need to knock them in order to position high-end knives better. The high-end knives can stand on their own, but they're not for everyone.
Incidentally, Havalon blades are made in India (not China), which has been producing quality steel on the world market for a long time. And since the scalpels are made for the medical industry, there is a high motivation to import high quality steel.
I know what they are. It's more complicated than just 4 pin. It's the location of the brass and steel pins, and the pattern. Mine is a 4 dot 3 pin. Which came before the 4 pin.
No.
BOTH the two dotters and the three dotters had four pins (three rivets and one pivot pin).....and BOTH came BEFORE the FOUR DOTTERS so your knife is an anomaly.....likely somebody put a newer blade on and older 110 frame.
Actually, the likely answer is not complicated. Your knife must have been slapped together from parts by a knife mangler.
I know what they are. It's more complicated than just 4 pin. It's the location of the brass and steel pins, and the pattern. Mine is a 4 dot 3 pin. Which came before the 4 pin.
No.
BOTH the two dotters and the three dotters had four pins (three rivets and one pivot pin).....and BOTH came BEFORE the FOUR DOTTERS so your knife is an anomaly.....likely somebody put a newer blade on and older 110 frame.
Actually, the likely answer is not complicated. Your knife must have been slapped together from parts by a knife mangler.
Got a picture of that strange knife?
Forums are funny. You guys will argue over the stupidest stuff. If my knife was slapped together it was done by Buck, because I bought directly from them in 81.
Now please. Enough of this. It's not that important.
One thing not shown in the video is to take a couple a backward strokes to straighten the edge first.
I use both a back stroke and forward when using a steel. With some practice you will be able to go by the sound of the stroke to know if you using the right angle or not. Some of the better flat steels seem to work better for me.
Buck hasn't had a single blade in 420 that's as good as what they used to use. My Granddads was in 440C and was down-right impressive. The newer ones are good to leave rattling around in the glovebox or under the seat just in case.
I have been using a couple custom or semi-custom knives. One is a Manley Blades in ATS-34, another Blind Horse Knives in 01 gets used a lot. My newest was a safety award is a Bark River Loveless in CPM3v. Even with my poor sharpening skills and poor blade skills, these knives stay sharp much longer than the softer steels. Maybe if I was good at not "hurting" my edge it wouldn't be important to me to use harder steels.
I almost always carry a kukri and a decent general purpose skinning knife, in my day pack,along with a small game hoist /block & tackle and diamond hone pocket sharpener plus lots of 2 gallon ziploc bags. theres no way in my opinion that a single small knife can perform all the chores,youll occasionally need, while out in the boonies,youll find you need an AXE, a hatchet, tomahawk or kukri for some projects
reading through this thread theres been a good many quality knives posted, (many I'd like to own) but I can,t help but wonder how many other guys like myself , do carry a second larger blade of some type, I'm betting a great deal of the guys that hunt farther from the camp or back pack in rather than hunt near a road and truck do! many of my friends that back pack in for elk hunts carry a tomahawk , I prefer the kukri, but I can,t imagine being able to function for days at a time back packing into remote areas with just a 4" skinning knife
A Leatherman Multitool and a Victorinox sheep skinner with a cheap sheath I made for it to ride in my pack. That sheep skinner with it's oversized plastic handle really cuts down on hand fatigue when skinning out game, I'll be hard pressed to ever buy something else for the task.
Just picked up some Mora Companions. I plan on having them everywhere. Pack, truck, sling, belt...hell I may strap one to my climber.
I got them everywhere. Couple on the boat, , 2 at the cabin, one for garden work in the shed, one in the work truck. Picked them up at a gunshow for 9.00 ea a couple years ago. Can't be beat for the money.
Man is there some nice knives in this thread. Its been a buck 110 for me for the last twenty years. Before that a Schrade that I lost in the woods in my teens. Still haven't gotten over it....lol
For years I used a Buck Lite that was given to me by my dad until i let someone use it. They "sharpened" it for me on a grindstone and it has been useless ever since. I gave it to my son a couple of years ago and sent it back to buck to have a new blade put in it.
Now days I carry a Case XX Trapper given to me by my best friend in my pocket and a Havalon Piranta and a Mora Knife in my my pack.
I have a decent amount of knives to choose from, but my favorites are these two Buck Knives (118 & 110) - in fact I cleaned a deer with each one if them this past week.
woodson; Good morning to you sir, hopefully the week treated you well and this finds you where you'd hoped to be on a cool October morning.
Thanks for the thread and thanks to those who've joined in to make it an interesting read/view.
While I've carried and experimented with a good number of different shapes and steels over the years, over the last few seasons this Vantage Pro that I rescaled with blaze orange micarta rides in my back pocket.
Three years ago I bought this 52100 blade from an online ebay shop, stuck some maple scales on it and cobbled together a sheath. It rides on my belt beside a Leatherman Wave and my cell.
I'm really liking the shape and size of it, though I'm not certain they quite got the heat treat right as it's a tad on the softer side for really good edge retention.
I may just have to grind one from some old D2 sawmill planer blades I've got and see how that works out. I did these from that supply and they hold an edge well - but they ride in the pack on long walks so that's a different thread.
Thanks again to all the folks who've shown their knife choices - good luck in all your hunts.
I think I responded to this some time ago but since I "got into" two deer this morning, maybe an update is in order.
For a long time my favorite folding knives were the Gerber LSTs. The last 3 I got (all at once, not separate mistakes) have been much more difficult to sharpen and haven't held an edge well..
My first rubber handled Buck Vanguard saw some action today. It continues to impress. It generally rides in one of the vertical pockets on my Badlands 2200; my wyoming saw (III) and a 3-AA maglight ride in the other side.
The newest knife I've been using probably wasnt' meant as a hunting knife. It's a Cold Steel SRK in stainless. It sharpens surprisingly well, does survival-y things (or at least trims branches etc for setting up trail cams) well, and today it did a great job on skinning 1-1/2 deer 'til I swiped the edge across my truck bed.
I need to find a newer / better 2-1/2 to 3 inch folding knife to do the things the first two Gerber LSTs I had did so well long ago. Something in that 2 ounce range.
I carry a case trapper in my pocket and have skinned gutted and cut the meat off many deer carcasses. I carry a Mora #2 in my truck door pocket that I use if I bring them to the shed.
My daily carry, a serrated Buck 442 folder, and a fixed blade, probably a Harvey King Small Game, #2, or #8 depending on the mood. There is a Buck Pathfinder, Style # 105, and a Sagan Saw in the field-dressing kit that I keep in my hunting pack.
These still work, but I've replaced the King knife with a Dale Howe Medium Drop Point #4. Still packing the Buck Pathfinder #105 and Sagan Saw in the Johnson Woolen Mills daypack.
I used a J A Henckels Friodor (top) for over 40 years. The last 4 or so, I've been using a Grohmann #1 (middle) or a #3 (bottom) with stag scales, and really like them. The Henckels still always gets a ride in my pack.
I don’t have a deer pic. Just my elk. But always a fixed blade on my hip. Havalon or outdoor edge with extra blades in the pac. https://imgur.com/a/2LxZl
I skinned 8 deer and butchered them with this guys knives, at our deer club, then another guy with a cusom knife borrowed mine after his would no longer cut:
McCroskey Custom Knives StillWater OK 877-256-4837 mccroskeyknives.com
I skinned and butchered two elk with one of his elk skinners, never needed to touch it up
A good friend, skinned 300 beaver before his got dull
I skinned 8 deer and butchered them with this guys knives, at our deer club, then another guy with a cusom knife borrowed mine after his would no longer cut:
McCroskey Custom Knives StillWater OK 877-256-4837 mccroskeyknives.com
I skinned and butchered two elk with one of his elk skinners, never needed to touch it up
A good friend, skinned 300 beaver before his got dull
There are knives, then there are working knives.
You posted this exact post a few weeks ago....Someone called BS on the 300 Beaver claim.
You might want to explain the claim....It does seems outrageous.
I used a J A Henckels Friodor (top) for over 40 years. The last 4 or so, I've been using a Grohmann #1 (middle) or a #3 (bottom) with stag scales, and really like them. The Henckels still always gets a ride in my pack.
I carried the Grohman Bird & Trout for deer work several years. They are nice knives.
Carried an Old Timer like that for many years. It disappeared and I replaced it with a Buck 110. I don't like the sheaths for either and carry in my front pocket. I like the Schrade better as it doesn't eat through my jeans as fast. Damn shame they quit putting the hole in them.
I skinned 8 deer and butchered them with this guys knives, at our deer club, then another guy with a cusom knife borrowed mine after his would no longer cut:
McCroskey Custom Knives StillWater OK 877-256-4837 mccroskeyknives.com
I skinned and butchered two elk with one of his elk skinners, never needed to touch it up
A good friend, skinned 300 beaver before his got dull
There are knives, then there are working knives.
You posted this exact post a few weeks ago....Someone called BS on the 300 Beaver claim.
You might want to explain the claim....It does seems outrageous.
🦫
. 300 Beaver before it got dull?!....Holy Hell Batman!!.....😄...Hb
Been using this Boker for years. Sharpens easy and holds a razor sharp edge. Only gut 2-3 deer max per year though with it. I don't ever use it for anything else.
I skinned 8 deer and butchered them with this guys knives, at our deer club, then another guy with a cusom knife borrowed mine after his would no longer cut:
McCroskey Custom Knives StillWater OK 877-256-4837 mccroskeyknives.com
I skinned and butchered two elk with one of his elk skinners, never needed to touch it up
A good friend, skinned 300 beaver before his got dull
There are knives, then there are working knives.
8 deer skinned, butchered no touch up? 300 beaver. tough to believe having a few high end custom knives
All I ever killed was dinks and basket racks until one day I went trout fishing 16 years old got out the truck and there she lay in the ditch Schrade folder in the sheath right beside the road somebody lost there kryptonite
This are with me all the time, the Leatherman on my hip and the others in my pack I normally have a moose or elk tag in my pocket as well as deer tags, and use the hatchet for multiple tasks I have beeen known too wear the Marrttinii at times however. ">)
But last Christmas, my wife gave me my first custom, a drop point hunter by Seth Borries of Southern Longbeards. Guess I ought to give it a try this season.
But last Christmas, my wife gave me my first custom, a drop point hunter by Seth Borries of Southern Longbeards. Guess I ought to give it a try this season.
When I was a kid I had a Buck Woodsman, but as I got older my hands got too large for the handle, so I moved to a Pathfinder.
Last couple years it’s been a Marbles Fieldcraft(the one on the left). The convex grind on these has no equal IMO…scary sharp!!! and hold an edge very well. These have the 52100 steel.
In the early days I used the Old Timer folder my wife bought me before we were married 47 years ago. Then the Sharp finger got some use for awhile. For a few years I used a pair of Buck 450 Vantage? folders. Been planning on using the Mora ever since a coworker gave it to me after finding it in his yard one morning. Never had a sheath for it so always seemed to pass it up for others. The last decade or so I've been using custom knives more often. Dozier Yukon Pro D2, Gene Ingram #1 S30V, another Ingram Light Hunter also S30V, and a Mike Miller Light Hunter in I think ATS-34. Well looks like my picture posting is busted.
In the early days I used the Old Timer folder my wife bought me before we were married 47 years ago. Then the Sharp finger got some use for awhile. For a few years I used a pair of Buck 450 Vantage? folders. Been planning on using the Mora ever since a coworker gave it to me after finding it in his yard one morning. Never had a sheath for it so always seemed to pass it up for others. The last decade or so I've been using custom knives more often. Dozier Yukon Pro D2, Gene Ingram #1 S30V, another Ingram Light Hunter also S30V, and a Mike Miller Light Hunter in I think ATS-34. Well looks like my picture posting is busted.
For the last few years I have found that an Outdoor Edge Swingblade does most of what I need but there’s also a Remington Big Game multiblade folder that rides along for the saw blade. Nothing so fancy as most apparently.
In the early days I used the Old Timer folder my wife bought me before we were married 47 years ago. Then the Sharp finger got some use for awhile. For a few years I used a pair of Buck 450 Vantage? folders. Been planning on using the Mora ever since a coworker gave it to me after finding it in his yard one morning. Never had a sheath for it so always seemed to pass it up for others. The last decade or so I've been using custom knives more often. Dozier Yukon Pro D2, Gene Ingram #1 S30V, another Ingram Light Hunter also S30V, and a Mike Miller Light Hunter in I think ATS-34. Well looks like my picture posting is busted.
Very nice!
I agree. I particularly like the Old Timer and Mora. It's too bad the Old Timers have been offshored.
In the early days I used the Old Timer folder my wife bought me before we were married 47 years ago. Then the Sharp finger got some use for awhile. For a few years I used a pair of Buck 450 Vantage? folders. Been planning on using the Mora ever since a coworker gave it to me after finding it in his yard one morning. Never had a sheath for it so always seemed to pass it up for others. The last decade or so I've been using custom knives more often. Dozier Yukon Pro D2, Gene Ingram #1 S30V, another Ingram Light Hunter also S30V, and a Mike Miller Light Hunter in I think ATS-34. Well looks like my picture posting is busted.
Very nice!
I agree. I particularly like the Old Timer and Mora. It's too bad the Old Timers have been offshored.
HA! It was actually that 47+ year old Old Timer that grabbed me. I have my Dad's 55 year old Case variant of the same:
I like those two. Looks like a very well designed pair for use as a field knife. The bottom one would serve better for skinning
Thanks. I spent several iterations with Phil getting those perfect. Wish the pic was better...that bottom one is as good a drop point/skinner Herron style semi-skinner I've ever used but it doesn't come across in the angle.
I just carry my regular 2/3 blade(always sharp) pocket knife. All knife work is done at the house. I skin and gut with an old big Queen folder or an old big Tree Brand folder. Into my cooler for about a week. Then out on the table for processing. The ONLY knives I use now for boning and disassembly are Rapala Fillet knives. They are the absolute best for this job. Around 2 hrs with these knives and my cuber and grinder Mr Deer is ready for consumption.