Was there ever a time when marlin wood finish varied and was not so shiny?

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The old Marlins, in the 30's and 40's, had an oil finish.

Bought an 1895 CB and CBA that were NOT shiny. Made 'em shiny.

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The shine can be removed with steel wool, #0000.

Have both oil and shiny. Oil ones hunt in wet weather, shiny ones in nice weather or just shooting day with kids and grandkids they have to bring there own ammo. .22's and 30-30

I just refinished my 39A golden with Frombys tung oil. Lots of patience and 1500 grit made a beautiful job.

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1500 grit? May as well use typing paper. 600 grit is about as fine as I use. After that it's steel #0000 wool. It works great for me but may not work for everyone.

Don't let that city-dweller with the "deer" after his name hear you doing that!

0000 works great! Restores shiny finishes to a rich lustre when followed with an old time paste wax, too. Clean surface before applying wax.

For a "flat" finish, 3M Ultra Fine "black" pads work well, also.

You are confusing the two common sandpaper grading systems. P1500 is only equal to the US standard 800 grit. Still mighty fine, but not nearly as fine as it seems.

Steel wool has no place in stock work, ever. That despite the fact it was used for a very, very long time.

You are not worth any effort...

Pffft...you aren't able to wake up early enough...

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( Sitka deer said;

Steel wool has no place in stock work, ever. That despite the fact it was used for a very, very long time.)

Little does he know--- Been using steel wool on stocks for over half a century. Works great if you know how.

Please! Please! Do not believe me! Make a sample board and look at it under magnification and do another without the steel wool and you will stand a very good chance of seeing exactly why.

I did my first stock in '65. I used lots of steel wool until I found out why it is a bad idea. More to the point there are far better, easier ways to avoid the hazards produced by steel wool.

I have shown many how to test it and none believed in steel wool after.

What's next, Townie...washing your car with bird frap because its natural scouring ability on paint finishes??

You have no argument, whatsoever, so you want to change the conversation?

More to the point, steel wool has been known as a bad thing for decades and you have not heard about it until now? Or did you ignore the advice without even bothering to test it?

Please, spend a few moments and prove I am wrong.

Defend yourself all you want (on the internet)...you OBVIOUSLY don't know how to USE materials let alone what some of them are (abrasive pads) OR how to clean your project to complete it.

I’ve heard the no no on steel wool and on most of my projects I have chosen to ignore it and use some 0000 steel wool in my finishing process. However if I was finishing some AAA stock I would not want to take any chance. As far as grit goes I’ll actually use 1000, 1500, & 2000 at the end before I rub it out with pumice and rotten stone. I am doing a stock off of a old Sheridan pellet rifle someone gave me and going with a wiping varnish. On this yea I am using steel wool and not too worried about perfection. The rifle will be donated to my buddies place I use and be there for anyone who wishes to have a go with it, so I’m not worried about it being perfect. I have also used spray lacquer on some stocks because it is a easy finish to get a glass like finish when you aren’t worried about a finish that needs to be able to withstand harsh hunting conditions. That finish only gets wet sanding with 1000 grit or above.

My bad for derailment of the original posted question. Here is a little something that if accurate sheds light on the question about finish.

https://www.marlinowners.com/forum/marlin-collectors/75258-marlin-stock-finishes.html

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OK, I have tried the steel wool on wood test, After cleaning the steel wool sample of wood, I am sorry, but I see no difference. The uncleaned wood has tiny pieces of steel wool in the finish, so what? It cannot be seen with the naked eye. If folks wish to NOT use steel wool, that's alright everyone has their own refinishing process. However from what I see, I will not be changing, steel wool works for me and will continue to do so.

Well said.

So there ya go...the SCIENTIFIC consensus is someone working with a wooden stock should C L E A N (Leftist regions may spell it c-l-e-a-n or possibly c-l-o-w-n) the surface after using ANY abrasive of their choice. Various tools, methods and products are available for this stage of "finishing"...search them, but don't use g oogle.

Fantastic! You see the steel particles and they do not bother you. In the course of time the steel will rust. When it does so in the finish it will create freckles. It will be noticeable to the naked eye. It will create a haze in the finish. If you think that is okay, without even knowing what it will grow into, then best of luck to you.

Someone has to live in single-wides, drink Ripple, and listen to Toby Keith and Florida Georgia Line...

Loosen up your ponytail, Townie...

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How are the steel particles going to rust if covered with a properly applied water proof finish ? I have stocks refinished over 50 years ago---no freckles. Sounds like a myth created by some gun writer looking for something to write about. Or maybe he stores his gun in the bath tub.

Is this myth similar to the ones about weighing primer and heavy crimps being needed for best accuracy?

First, very few stock finishes are truly waterproof. All oil-based finishes readily transport water through them. Ordinary 100% oil finishes will pick up and release atmospheric water faster than dry wood. Water stains on oil-finished furniture is an example of oil finishes soaking up frank water which they do slower than vapor.

Epoxy, cyanoacrylate, and some paints are waterproof.

It is not even close to a myth and has been well documented for well over 50 years.

To find the steel particles or the rust freckles may take a bit of magnification. The haze they produce can be seen without magnification. You have undoubtedly seen it without recognizing it if you have looked at many guns treated with steel wool.

I always suggest a test board be made just to prove how wrong I am. You will be doing yourself a favor because you will no longer be "that" clueless guy arguing against something that is so completely true and obvious.

No ill will intended nor taken.

Looking back, i realize i had ignored an earlier post where you had made a sample, please describe your technique and i will happily explain the steps to finding freckles.