Last week end, the Tulsa show was going on. I never saw so many 336’s in one place. I believe there were many more 336’s than any other gun. I was surprised at the prices the vendors were asking, $1,200 to $1,450 was common.
I was looking for a 32 Special 336. Now I’ve just sold my 32 Special dies, brass and bullets so I don’t need one of those anymore. I think the cheapest one I saw was well over $1,200!
I’m tempted to sell my excellent JM 35 Remington, dies and brass. I have several hundred cases. I just shipped out some virgin 35 Remington brass and I don’t think I have any more new brass. I’m not interested in selling more brass unless the rifle goes with it, don’t ask.
What in the world is going on with JM 336’s??? I like them, but at those prices good bye JM.

All of a sudden everyone thinks they need a 336 and a Savage 99. Meanwhile 94 Winchesters are halfway affordable.

I just put back a '63 M336 straight grip, full tube 20 inch barreled 35 Remington at the local shop. Price was $400.00. It was not a collector grade, but was a solid working gun. The wood was in really good shape. The blueing was worn in the action area from carrying it in the hand, otherwise it was in good shape as well.

I couldn't believe how great that straight stock rifle felt in the hand and how quick it was to mount to the shoulder. Then again I shouldn't have been, it's the Marlin equivalent to my 94 Winchester. That slim stock and forend feels much handier than my '52 SC 35 Remington.

Happy birthday to me.

35 Remington brass - new - for sale

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...6277/wts-35-remington-brass#Post18326277

I am right there with you Pal. The old straight grip 336 Texans feel, point and handle better for me than any other Marlin.



I've got an old Ballard rifled 35 Texan that runs slick and shoots great.

My brother offered to sell me his .35 Marlin at a very reasonable price last year. No thanks. Too much of a PITA to find .35 bullets and brass these days and too damned expensive when you do, all for absolutely no advantage over the .30-30. I got rid of my .35 years ago because after killing a bunch of deer with each, I concluded that the only thing it did better than my .30-30 was empty my wallet.

I loaded up on 35 Remington ammo & components after I got that old Texan, so I'm set for 10-15 years of casual shooting and hunting. Damn glad I did it then, instead of now.

I used the 30-30 for years and it's a fine deer rifle.

I have enough components for each that cost is a toss up. I also have molds for each. It’s not hard to get cast bullets to the same velocity as jacketed with either. I’m not sure which is better at killing. If I ran out of jacketed bullets for both I’d likely choose the 35 though.

Maybe the high tariff for the new Ruger 336's has something to do with it ?

I load 35 Remington to 30-30 pressure in Marlins, getting 2150+ with 200 grain Sierras which expands them way down the shank inside 75 yards. The doe in the photo caught one in the near shoulder, quartered in about 130 yards and folded up.

..

Until this past season I had not hunted with a lever gun in over 25 years. Season before last, my brother had such a good time with his Marlin 30-30 that I decided to buy one.

That plan became three, when I came across good deals on a '86 CS 30-30, a '52 SC in 32 WS and a '52 SC 35 Rem. I was fortunate to be able to buy components or ammo at a good price for all three.

My brother challenged me to lever gun hunt only in Miss. this past season. I'm confident in all three and rotated them while hunting. As it worked out, I only got two deer and both were with the 30-30.

I didn't know this '63 35 Rem. model was called a Texan. I just knew it was a good gun for the price. More important to me is it was made in 1963 and so was my brother. He will turn 60 in August. As much as I liked this gun and would really like to keep it, it will be his birthday present. In my role as the family ammo maker, I'm going to load him two hundred rounds of ammo for it. I'll load him up Speer 180s or Hornady 200s, whichever is the most accurate.

Lever guns are hot right now...marlin .35s are bringing good money.I bought my .35 about 10yrs ago for 250

Mine likes my reloads with the Hornady 200gn FTX. Wish they would always group like this (shot yesterday at 100yards):

Maybe I'll get the 35 out this summer and try lots of cast loads. I'd think that with a flat point it would be a good deer cast bullet cartridge. I have 4 ea 30 caliber moulds, probably more 35's.

Gee really Devon? Well all the ammo manufacturers will be glad to hear that YOU , think the load they have been loading primarily for 45 years "could make a good deer load" your a moron.

Will you just STF up you bloviating no mind gas bag poser and go back to sucking dicks to pass your time.

I can't argue that point at all. I still love my 35R. I have 2 identical 336, one in 30-30 and one in 35. Same year, same scope, same hammer spur. They are so close I need to really watch which one I grab. The 30-30 gets 98% of the plinking time. The 35 gets to go hunting.

I picked up the M336 35 Rem. a couple of weeks ago. I've got it cleaned, scoped and ready to sight in. Fairly sure my brother is going to like it.

I have 200 rounds loaded with Rem. brass and 200gr. Hornady RN that I'm going to give to him as well. I had 99 rounds of Win. brass I tried to add to, but couldn't find any. A week ago, my local dealer got in two cases of Hornady Leverevolution ammo priced at $38.00 a box. I sent the Win. brass and some of my RN bullets down the road and bought a case of the Hornady.

Given that we hunt with other guns and our age, I'm pretty sure having a case of ammo each and the stock to load it all back again will be enough for our needs. Our grandkids will be hunting with what we leave behind.

My 336 (last of the Remington Marlin models) 35Rem has developed chronic vertical stringing. Scope and mounts checks out okay and I've tried tight and loose mag screws and even removed the mag tube but to no avail. How do you bed one of these?

Only had about 600rnds through it so far.

Shot a few deer with the .30-30.
No complaints. One was a decent 9 pointer and another was my farthest shot, 200 yards. BANG..flop.
Shot 1 with the .35 Remington. Accidental head shot
Eeeew...
I now have a very fine 760 in .35 Remington, and plan to shoot more deer with her. 200 grain Core Lokts doing, chrono'd, 2285 fps.
I do expect gooey chests and other damage.

curious, “Have you chronographed your load?” It would be interesting to see shot to shot variation

I’ve not messed with the bedding on my 336’s. Maybe check on a Marlin site or google

This Marlin 336 SC in 35 Remington has become one of my favorite deer rifles. I don't recommend converting a collector Marlin 336 SC to a straight grip. But when someone else has started, and screwed up the conversion, I didn't mind finishing it correctly. It turned into a slim and very handy 35 Remington that is very accurate.

Loads are good.

I gave the bedding a go through the week - just a slim smear on the two "rails" of the forestock (that's all the contact area available). Made it a good tight fit.

Tried it at the range yesterday - with tight mag screws I still got the vertical stringing, with loose mag screws I got general overall less acceptable group sizes.

The vertical stringing is typically a tight cluster with a shot or two going high or low. The first shot on a cold barrel is always going be the worst offender - more often than not, high.


I don't know what happened but it used to like loose mag screws.

I've tried it with the mag tube off previously but it didn't completely eliminate stringing or improve accuracy reliably. I might just try it again with the mag tube off.

I know you said loads are good. No way the sizing die could have gotten screwed in a little further and changed the headspace ? I don't know if that would even matter.

My FLS die is set to neck size only - I've not had the need to FLS any brass yet, and haven't yet set the die to suit my rifle (haven't had any fired brass that was tight enough to need FLS). Brass life has been good - 14 reloads so far and counting.

It's definitely a bedding issue - I can switch it reliably between "string mode" and "pattern mode" by the tightness of those magazine screws now.

I have one that shotgun patterned that I relieved the forearm wood that touched the barrel and bedded the ends of the wood on the forearm at the receiver and at the end cap. This was a SC model with the short mag tube and end cap. It shot a little better after that. The wood was really tight before that and I had to fight to get the end cap on every time I took it down. The gun was an old one that hadn't been shot much if at all. After about 200 rounds through it, it started shooting really well and still does.

I neutral bed the forearm to the barrel, bed forearm to receiver, butt stock to receiver, barrel bands tight on every lever action I own and they all shoot good this way. My Marlin is a solid, consistent, sub MOA shooter and my Winchesters are 1-1.5 MOA.

The cost of Marlin's has exploded, sad but true. Here is my 336A and she didn't look like this when I brought her home from the pawn shop.



Refinish thread...

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...h/true/finished-336-project#Post12392227

My Marlin 1895 in 45-70 did the same thing when it started getting hot. I just accepted it as a lever gun thing. I only used it for hunting deer, so it didn't matter. I always sight in my hunting rifles with a dead cold barrel anyway.

It wouldn't. Headspaces on the datum line

You bedded a floating fore end? To what. Who told you to do that?