I just acquired a 1956 Model 336 in. 35 Remington that is rough at the least, no blueing, minor pitting, weathered wood. My plan is to cerakote and if the stocks are salvageable to refinish, or replace if needed. Any particular things to investigate before investing time, money, and effort in to rebuilding it? Got it dirt cheap, and realise any collector value is gone, but always wanted a .35 to pair with my .30-30, .32 Win and my first rifle ever, a model 39 .22.

Check bore and function prior to firing. If those are good take it to the range. If it shoots good, proceed with your plan.

I have a very similar rifle, maybe same year. What blueing remains is more green/gray than blue/black. It wouldn't shoot for crap when I got it, about 6" at 50 yds. Running a tight patch through revealed some tight/loose spots. Bore scope showed a lot of transverse tool marks on the lands. Did a fire-lapping sequence with my NECO kit and last time out it was holding 2.5" for five shots @100yds. Manual re-crowning probably helped too. Still some tool marks up towards the muzzle an it copper fouls a bit, but I think I'm calling that aspect of it done. Disassemble and check that the bolt and firing pin are in good shape and haven't been mucked with. They are pretty easy to tear down and there are utube videos to help. One thing to consider is the hammer on these early guns is different than what came later and none of the available hammer extension fit, that I can find. This may be important if you plan to scope it low, as it should be. I'm living with it for now but will be making a custom extension or modifying the hammer. I'll be revinishing the wood, then stoning and rust blueing the metal one of these days. Need to play with stock bedding to see if I can improve the accuracy a little, but it is sufficient as it is now.

[quote=gzig5]I have a very similar rifle, maybe same year. What blueing remains is more green/gray than blue/black. It wouldn't shoot for crap when I got it, about 6" at 50 yds. Running a tight patch through revealed some tight/loose spots. Bore scope showed a lot of transverse tool marks on the lands. Did a fire-lapping sequence with my NECO kit and last time out it was holding 2.5" for five shots @100yds. Manual re-crowning probably helped too. Still some tool marks up towards the muzzle an it copper fouls a bit, but I think I'm calling that aspect of it done. Disassemble and check that the bolt and firing pin are in good shape and haven't been mucked with. They are pretty easy to tear down and there are utube videos to help. One thing to consider is the hammer on these early guns is different than what came later and none of the available hammer extension fit, that I can find. This may be important if you plan to scope it low, as it should be. I'm living with it for now but will be making a custom extension or modifying the hammer. I'll be revinishing the wood, then stoning and rust blueing the metal one of these days. Need to play with stock bedding to see if I can improve the accuracy a little, but it is sufficient as it is now


Uncle Mike's now makes a hammer extension for older Marlins: Marlin® lever actions 1957-1982 #24520.

Unless there is a really new one, I've tried that one and it doesn't fit. I think the pre-57's are different and not supported as far as I can tell. OP and mine are 1956.

On the stocks, I suggest stripping and maybe sanding to get them desirable. For a coating I highly suggest a pine tar treatment. Go to YouTube for the how to's.

I thinned down some pine tar and used a torch to apply it to my new Ruger Hawkeye. It's a great treatment because it impregnates the wood pores when heat is applied. It locks in the pores and makes the wood much more impervious to water and weather. The old timers used it extensively on tool handles to get them to last and last.

I'm a pine tar convert.

I have a 24" rifle with half magazine from 1952 that I like. I found a hammer extension for a Model 36 that worked well. I have heard of others claiming extensions for the Model 39 and some Winchester 94s also working but have not seen it first hand. It is possible as I have used extensions meant for other models on other hammer guns to help those with smaller/weaker thumbs.