Guys,

I�m not looking for suggestions on how to pan lube as I�ve been doing it for some time and have a technique that now works very well for me. Just thought I�d share my comments on one area I�ve had problems with in the past and solved, in case others are experiencing similar problems, which is obtaining completely filled out uniform lube in the bullet grooves when pushing the bullets out of the lube cake. Even when the grooves were filled out, I could tell some of the lube in the grooves would have a tendency to fall or roll out of the groove. It was usually the lube in the 1st or last groove exiting the cake. This is certainly not a new problem and has been reported and discussed previously in BPCR forums. BTW I�ve exclusively used SPG

In an attempt to eliminate the problem I experimented with preheating the bullets with a hair dryer and/or hot air gun to various temperature and allowing the lube cake and bullets to cool to various temperatures: slightly warmer than room temp, room temp, some cooling in the frig, more cooling in the frig, cooling in the freezer, etc. Nothing seemed to consistently work. So I finally said the he** with it and decided to use the cookie cutter method. So I grabbed a used cartridge case and expanded the neck to a diameter just slightly over the bullet diameter. I then drilled out the primer hole to �� to allow using a dowel rod to push out the lubed bullet. I also drilled a small hole completely through the case in front of the rim to allow air to escape when pushing the cutter down over the bullet with my finger covering the drilled primer hole. Nothing I tried worked near as good as this approach. I now get perfectly filled out lube grooves every time and the lube sticks tenaciously to the grooves. Here�s a photo of my simple cutter and push-out rod. And it�s almost as fast as pushing the bullets out with your bare thumb.



Wayne

Wayne,

I've used exactly the method you described, and then rejected it. It comes down to whatever works best for an individual.

The main problem I encountered is that the "cutter", and particularly the vent hole(s), pretty quickly gets caked up with lube and has to be cleaned out, which is messy and time consuming.

It does depend to some degree on the type of lube involved. Their unique properties lend themselves better to some techniques than others.

I've tried several pan lubing methods, and have a fair collection of pans, etc. What I've settled on is a flexible container for the lube and bullets, a low, flat container made of plastic, or the flexible silicone cake pans. I put the water in a straight sided frying pan, and place a coil of heavy copper wire in the bottom to keep the lube container off the direct heat, sort of a double boiler.

After cooling, I just twist the container enough to get the lube cake and bullets out, hopefully in one piece, and press the bullets out with my thumb. When it works right, you are left with a cake of clean holes, that facilitates the insertion of another batch of bullets. As you have found, there is an optimum temp at which things work best.

Paul

The first cutter a friend from the fire made me was like yours but drilled so the bullets could pass all the way through. I soldered a big nut to the end to help push.

I then needed a cutter for 205gr 45s in SPG and made one from a golf club shaft. I like the way it works.

Paul,

I've never had a problem with the cutter getting caked up with lube and I've used it for cutting out up to 200 bullets at a time. The little lube that does collect in the cutter is easily melted out after seach session by heating with the same hair drier I use to preheat the bullet.

Wayne

Like I said, it may depend on the particular lube. I've used several, but certainly not all, and I can't claim to have done any well controlled experimenting.

Still, to me, the cutter method is a solution in search of a problem.

Different strokes, YMMV, and all that.

Paul

To clarify, I'm not trying to be contentious or snarky, just sharing experience and perspective, which is what this is all about.

I have found that by using the right kind of container, the hardened cake can be popped out, as well as the individual bullets, in two simple hand operations without tools. I have found with most lubes, and if the temp is right, the bullets comes out clean and with the grooves well filled. The bases should be wiped.

In my experience using the cutter, there will be excess lube on the bullet exterior, if the cutter has enough diameter tolerance to position and make a clean cut without shaving lead. The potential to misalign enough to shave lead is always there. Granted, technique comes into play as well.

Now, there is a case where the cutter may be optimal, and that is with lubes that don't stay in the grooves well. By that I mean the lubes that don't allow the bullet to pop easily out of the cake, or that comes out of the grooves in the process. In my experience, those are the lubes that have a hard waxy texture.

I always end up balancing end performance against the PITA factor. Some top shooters swear by certain items, including lubes, that others may not care for.

On the topic of lubes, I have found that most form a green corrosion inside the case mouth adjacent to the lube grooves. Some are worse than others, and some of those cause such adhesion that it is as if the bullet were glued into the case, not something I care to deal with.

Paul

Paul,

I took you comments as just sharing your experiences and making suggestions. I never figure my way is the only way and always seem to benefit from hearing how others accomplish the same task. What usually happens is just when I believe I have the problem nailed down, someone comes along with a better idea.

Wayne

A couple of pics of the green stuff.

The first is a test I did by coating several cases with various lubes. Most of them turned the brass green.

The second are some pulled bullets. The green on just the top band suggests that exposure to air through an imperfect seal may be a factor.

Paul

This a very timely thread as I'm about to pan lube for the first time.Have all the tools and associated goodies for the lube.Just poured a batch of Lyman Whitworth 457121PH for my 45/110. My question, do the number of grooves and or depth make it easier/harder to hold lube?

Woody,

I'd think that, all things being equal, deeper grooves would hold the lube better. However, that depends on the characteristics of the particular lube. In general, a lube with a degree of stickiness, often coming from lanolin content, will stay in the grooves better than one with a significant waxy base. As a practical matter, I wouldn't avoid a bullet of a proven design just because of groove depth. It is the overall amount of the lube carried by the bullet that matters more than how it is placed. Fewer and bigger grooves vs. more of the shallower grooves can hold the same amount.

There are bullets with significantly smaller grooves that are favored by some shooters. The minigroove money design comes to mind, and there may even be a micro-mini out there, but perhaps that just exists in my aging mind. The common Lyman Postell also has relatively shallow grooves. There are a lot of variables to consider, and one is bore or fouling management. Those bullets with less lube require more attention to wiping, etc. OTOH, excess lube that blows out the barrel isn't doing any good. When we had steel buffalo herd shoots around here requiring 25 fast shots, I added a lube cookie to my lubed bullet loads, and you could see the chunks flying. It did let me cram round after round into the chamber without using the blow tube or wiping, though.

Paul

This Parker Hale comes highly recommended by Sharpsguy as one of the better all round greaser hunting bullets for most hunting applications.It does carry alot of lube and I probably would chase it with a cookie for extra measure anyway.Guess my lube composition will be proof in the pudding, we'll see very soon....Thanks Paul

That is the bullet I just got the mold for at sharpsguy's recommendation too. I will be pan lubing DGL

I use flexible bread pans for my lubing. I use a mixture of purified beeswax, parfin wax, vaseline and STP gas treatment. I throw in a red crayon so I can see the wax in the grooves. I keep everything hot in a slow cooker. I set the bullets in my pans which sit on flat borads to add rigidity to bottoms of pans. After pouring the wax, I let it cool a bit to set and then place in the freezer. After an hour or so in the freezer, I pop the cakes out of the pans and take them to my mini drill press. I put 3" piece of 3/8" wooden dowel in the chuck, line it up over the hole in the table and punch them out into my hand waiting below the table. Quick, easy and the grooves are full. I run the waxed bullets through a Lee sizing die and load.

The drill press idea sounds slick.

My thumb does get kinda sore pushing bullets out of the lube cake.

Paul

Of course the simplest solution to this lube problem is to just convert to paper patches and put the lube in a bottom drawer to be used only when you need a woodscrew lubricant, or perhaps in cases of severe constipation