I'm not a real gear head and prefer bone stock to everything else (if at all possible) but after experiencing a failure of the standard oil filter cap I thought I'd share.

Whilst removing the stock version the tabs on top sheared off and put a pin hole leak in the process:



Outside view:



After a bit of DuckDuckGoing I discovered it's a somewhat common problem and ordered one of these:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHP68A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A worthy investment IMO:





You do have to swap the innards:



Probably not news to a lot of you but thought I'd share in case others weren't aware.

Now you tell me...200,000 miles ago, I overtightened the plastic pos...and next oil change, tore the hell out of it getting it off of course, all the time the rage building, the voices in the head chanting...kill it, kill it. It still works but looks like an alligator chew toy.

Flintlocks,

I love Toyota but plastic and oil filters is about the dumbest schit I can imagine.

Better late than never I guess...

Couple things, what kind of watch you wear? Please say G-shock. 2nd are those legit marble floors in your house?

The new ones have a bunch of plastic parts. They are a fuggin pos. The Taco's are even worse.

FitBit and yes.

Last question did firenuts and consuela put them in?

I didn't have a problem with the plastic filter housing, but installed the metal one because my buddies were complaining about how difficult the plastic version was to remove on their pre-2014 trucks. On my 2017, I didn't have any trouble with it and makes me wonder if Toyota changed a design detail on the newer blocks.

I also bought the motorcycle wrench, thinking that I would remove the plug and drain the oil through the access door in my skid plate before dropping the housing. In the end, I usually just let the oil fly but did get more oil on the skid plate.

4th point,

Are those two different oil filter wrenches for the same cap?

Not sure what you mean about the motorcycle wrench.

Yeah, two different tools for the same filter housing.

The Motiv "socket" style wrench engages the tabs closer to the engine. That Big Bike Parts wrench fits really tight to the multi-sided end of the filter housing around the drain plug. I call it a motorcycle wrench since it's actually made for motos. The Tundra guys figured it out.

I believe I ordered mine from a moto shop in Florida. I can look for details, if you want.

I can probably find them based on the name.

Thanks though.

Definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Add a Fumoto valve and MotivX filter drain tool, and oil changes are fast and tidy.

First thing I did last year when we bought an '11 Lexus GX 460 w/95K miles

Seems my kit even came complete with filter too...$53 from Amazon

Still a PIA to change

here's a good on line store

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofspringfield.com/

A couple years ago we bought a demo Toyota Highlander, 7k miles. It had had an oil change at the dealers. The next time it needed a change, I played hell getting the cap off. The mechanic must have used an impact wrench on it. I finally got it off without damage but I sure didn't screw it down nearly as tight when I put it back on. It's plenty tight now but not excessive.

Ive got the metal one on the shelf ready for the next oil change.

What I want to know is why it comes standard in some cars but the Tundra gets the plastic one.

My local Walmart had the wrench for $5. The cast metal one, not the stamped sheet metal which slips like crazy.

I have a cast metal cup wrench that fits the hex and has slots for the plastic tabs. Changed lots of oil filters on Toyota's for work. Never busted a plastic cap even if I had to get a 1/2" breaker bar on them as they were so tight. Also a hose with adapter that fits the drain plug to empty the filter before removing.

Great tip - thanks. I’ve got one of these on it’s way for my 21.

The original cap on the old 2008 was intact, but pretty beat.

I noticed that the Motiv socket-style filter wrench, which is cast metal, could be installed incorrectly if not paying attention. Definitely want to rotate it around the filter housing until it is fully seated, if using that one. If not, then it won't fully engage the tabs on the housing.

Even though I bought and installed the metal filter housing, I am not 100% convinced that it is better than the original plastic one. In my mind, the metal casting can have internal inclusions/defects from the casting process that would seem to be very difficult to detect or inspect for. My guess is that you'd have a better chance of getting a 100% correct part with the plastic. Obviously the metal one is less likely to deform.

With the older engines, it seems like there was a problem removing the plastic housing. That is what my buddies told me, with their trucks. They said it felt like the plastic was going to break or get rounded edges. Like Flav's. The metal housing solved the high removal torque for them. But like I posted earlier, my engine block and plastic housing didn't have that problem. Basically tighten the housing down until it stopped, for installation. And for removal it never felt seized or stuck.

Man I hated doing those oil changes on the Tundras I owned, some engineer needed a swift kick in the nuts over that filter design and location. The best gift Toyota ever gave their owners is the 4.0 L in the Tacoma’s and 4skins, you can do an oil change in 5 minutes with nearly zero mess!

this kit also come with wrench to remove/install

my new to me '03 LX 470 comes with the good ole fashioned filter

whoo hoo !

I absolutely hate those damned oil filters, the design is the most retarded piece of engineering I've ever seen. Toyotas are almost all I'll own because I've had such great service out of them, but I can't believe they'd put such a stupid designed oil filter on their engines.

I cuss that thing every time I change oil in my 2016 Tundra. I had a 2014 Camry that had the same type oil filter and it sucked just as bad. I traded it for a 2018 Camry and they went back to a spin on oil filter for 2018, changing oil in it is much, much easier than the 2014. Hopefully the new engine in the next generation Tundra will go back to a spin on filter too.

I hear ya, the wife’s Lexus has the same F@#$ing design and it makes the biggest damn mess every time I change her oil. My sons Tacoma is a 2nd gen 4.0l and it s sooo damn easy compared to the Lexus or a Tundra. Google 4.0 liter Tacoma oil change on YouTube and will make you even madder than you are now,

Will pick up a cast metal tool to replace the sheet metal one. Thanks

My new to me 2003 Lexus LX 470 has the real deal spin off filter

Be getting one of these soon. Pricy but allows one to use a screw on filter like we all used to.

In my future.

I was skeptical of the newer design, using the reusable filter housing and disposable element, before I bought my Tundra. However, after nearly four years, I found it to be a non-issue. In fact, I liked the ease in being able to inspect the pleats of the filter element. My first oil change had manufacturing debris in the element, which was not unexpected.

I have no problem with spin-on filters, but the current Rubik's Cube isn't that difficult. Remove the filter housing. Replace the element. Reinstall the housing.

$200 to be able to use a spin on? Screw that. The cartridge isn't that hard to do. It only takes a minute longer than the spin on.

2010 4runner here w/ 224K. I've done all the oil changes except the first 2. No problems with the nylon OEM filter housing. The key is using the correct tool (not the 3.99 sheet metal cap wrench) and proper torque. There are lots of tools out there but I've found the Motivx with the slots works best. It doesn't stick like the non-slotted ones do. I think the spec is 20# on the housing which I've found is as soon at the housing comes tight you are at 20#. Also, install a new o ring in the correct location each time. If you king kong a titanium housing you will have the exact same problems as the OP had with the nylon one.
All that being said I've got nothing against the aluminum housing. It sure looks nice. But what if you cross thread it during installation? Which one is going to damage the block threads, the nylon one or the aluminum one? My biggest gripe is the damned skid plate removal. I still haven't figured out the angle on those hooks- at least when using low profile ramps.

It could have been over torqued at the dealership. I was between houses at the time of the previous oil change and didn't have anywhere to do it myself.

That truck was also bought in MT and almost all it's miles are from that area. I don't know if sub 30-95 + temps would have an effect or not. But it's possible.

I actually like the setup itself because I like being able to look at the element.

But the plastic failed me.

Fershure.