I’ve been shopping for a front disc brake replacement on my ‘16 Toyo 4Runner. Job will include new rotors, hardware and ceramic pads. The vehicle has 75k on the odo, and this will be my second replacement. Two different shops have recommended draining and replacing brake fluid. Has anyone Heard of this?

B

I get that every time I take my F250 down to have the oil changed. It's turtle pucky. Back in the old days, before sealed stainless steel lines, it may have been a good idea but unless you live on a steep mountain and pulling a no brake trailer burning your pads and boiling your fluid, don't worry about. It's just a terror tactic to upsell.

That’s exactly my son’s recommendation.

Thanks 6mm.

Bob

You are so welcome.

W. Bill

What is making them wear so prematurely?

The way I am reading it is they have been replace 2x and this will be the 3rd set?

Agreed. Three sets of brakes within 75K?

You are correct about the third set. I can only speculate, but the first set lasted about 54k, the 2nd about 22. My guess is lousy installation, or better yet, lousy rotors via China. I had no idea the pads were poor, but I could feel the pulsing when braking hard, thus warped rotors.

Alot of slotted rotors are directional. Put them on the wrong side.,.....

If you got factory solid rotors and only got 22k, something is wrong

The new set being installed will be done at the dealers. The last set were installed by a respected Toyota mechanic, They were warranted for 24 mos, they lasted 27.

Have you had the same issues w other vehicles and front brakes?

In this area, stuck calipers are more common
than in the old days of cast iron with stainless
steel pistons


JMHO- i change all fluids in my vehicles frequently
Extreme heat, condensation, and electrolysis are
the enemies here. And most fluids are cheaper to
replace than parts

I like to at least bleed the brakes and remove any debris or contaminants. I change out the brake fluid by syphoning out old and adding new insuring I am keeping the master brake cylinder at least half full, never let the master cylinder go dry. Do the same with power steering fluid also.
Good video on bleeding brakes by yourself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5O...ex=3&ab_channel=felixtcat1felixtcat1

Are you sure that wasn't the ABS doing what it's supposed to do? They pulse to prevent skidding.

I hate ABS but that was my thought also.

Swift

Guys, thanks for the comments and expertise. Specifically, this is the first time in many moons of driving that brakes have dumped the bed so soon. The pulsing was different and more pronounced than ever before.

Best,

Bob

My 2004 Tacoma, although not a 4 Runner has 13 0K on it. I replaced pads once. Rear, never touch although they are drum brakes. Around here any time you take something in for brake job,they turn the rotors.Those things are thin to begin with.One turning will put them at minimal thickness. The first time they get hot they will warp,then you get the pulsating. Then you go back and they get a whole brake job from you.Changing out disc brake pads on a Toyota is one of the simplest jobs there is.

Except on older vehicles when the brake wheel cylinders leak and it required it, I have never changed brake fluid in any vehicle my entire life

every two years or so, I have to replace the front brakes on my '88 4Runner. I have no idea of why they go bad so quickly, but it is a way of life. Last year, it was everything plus new manual locking hubs.

On every one I've worked on, once the caliper is off, the rotor just slides off the lug bolts...after some pounding to break it loose sometimes.
I'm another who doesn't change fluid.

If you price new rotors, they don't costs much more than the cost of turning the old ones. Labor is expensive.

Use OEM Toyota rotors/pads...plenty on line sources

But 75K miles & 2nd replacement ? Seems very excessive

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/4runners.127/

https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/

Tikkanut et. al. Thanks again for the replies and the suggestions. I’m sure O.E.M. is the way to go.

Trying to understand the resistance to regular brake fluid changes here. I guess I’m one of those that goes against the flow. My 43 years of experience in the industry may have something to do with it, but perhaps not. My shop works on German auto’s both new and old, and I see firsthand the result on the old cars. By old, I mean 80’s and earlier cars. The properly maintained ones will for the most part have their original calipers and master cylinders, unless they have 300+k miles on them, and then it’s usually had a master cylinder. The ones that have been stored and had the minimum done to “keep them running” are the ones that need brake calipers, and usually come in with fried pads and rotors due to binding brakes. You can change out the fluid dozens of times and still be ahead instead of paying for new or reman components on some of the old Porsches, Benzes and BMW’s that we see, assuming you can even find the parts for them nowadays…..

My opinion, for what it’s worth……..

I'm still trying to wrap my mind around replacing the first set of OEM brakes at 54,000. Both my Tacomas went well beyond 100K on the rear drums, and beyond 200K on the front discs.

Lots of down hill with the foot on the brake instead of downshifting?

I listened to Click and Clack, must have been over a decade ago, and a call from a guy with a new caddy that took it from Sacramento to Reno and back (over Donner) and arrived back home with worn out brakes. As Boston flatlanders, Click and Clack just couldn't figure out what could have happened. But ride your brakes down hill and heat them up good, and you can burn up a set in very few miles.