what's the best motor in these trucks pertaining to years? Right now I see the Chevy 5.3 Vortex listed most in my area and the Ford 5.4 Triton as popular motors. I am looking for basically a truck that is more dependable and for the American market, these two seem to be fairly good motorwise. But I have last had a Bronco 79 back in college...a good 20+ years ago. I know American trucks have changed so much in 20 years. I have not yet splurged on a Tacoma even though I want one but they are priced sky-high in the new and used market. This truck will be mostly a weekender for me, so I will probably get a used Chevy 1500/Ford 150 and hopefully with the miles around 70-80K. Are the 5.4 Triton and 5.3 Vortex good dependable motors? I do not anticipate doing alot of towing but may tow a light boat or ATV that I look to getting one for my fast growing kids Looking for input on who has one etc. Oh, I see some GMC Sierras but know nothing about these trucks. And I will probably put a life on it eventually to get a bit more ground clearance.

So tell me what you know or have had experience with these Chevy/Ford motors or recommend any other better motors. I know I will not get awesome mph, but what da heck...this is going to be used what it is best designed for.

BTW...I like both of these trucks, have a few uncles who worked and retired for GM and I have rode in many Fords so to me dependability is most important than "name-brand"...but not so sure about Dodges although they seem to be more on the road these days

Thanks for your help...

I had a Ford F150 with a 5.4 Triton and a Tahoe with a 5.3 Vortex. Both were equally good.

our 5.3 vortec took a nose dive at 115,000. Was doing 65mph when the oil pressure dropped. Couldnt get it shut down in time to save it.

Out of the 2 chevys on our work crew this one that lost the motor has given us the least problems, the duramax has been a PITA. However both of them have given us way more problems than all the fords we have owned combined.

If I was getting a gas motor in a 1/2 ton truck it would be a Chevy, whether a 5.3 for light use or a 6.0 for medium use. I have owned and seen a 5.3 go 150,000 with little maintenance other than oil changes, saw it the other day ( a yr later) and it's still doing the same.

I have a little experience with Ford gas motors and I wouldn't trust one as far I as I could throw it and that wouldn't be far enough.

All the motors I speak of get a little work, they don't haul soccer moms or haul a little 200 motorcycle to the track, they get used.

Just saying experiences differ.

All that said, my main truck is a Dodge Cummins diesel! LOL

Bill

I have 3 toyota trucks & a Camry, the trucks range from 188K-202K, the 93 w/202K has been trouble-free, only repair was a starter @ 178K, the other 2 I can't say, I bought 'em very well used. Used toyotas w/lo miles are spendy, not much more to buy new and get a warranty. I looked at a new Tacoma, 4X4 Xtra cab 4 cyl. 5 spd, for under $22K, not sure what the V6 would be. I've owned all of the big 3, nothing holds up as well as the Toys.

5.3L GM. Most I know with late model GMCs or Chevys in extended cab shortbed 1500 4x4s, will get near 20MPG highway.

In a 2500 series, the 6.0L GM engine is a good one, but comes in closer to 15MPG in the newer ones. A buddy had a new 2001 Chevy 2500 ext. cab shortbed 4x4 that got closer to 17MPG highway, but understand newer ones are a bit worse.

I don't know a soul with an F150 ext. cab shortbed 4x4 that gets fuel mileage anything close to what the GM trucks do. A friend bought a new Ford F150 4x4 within a few months of when I got my 2006 GMC. Both trucks are fairly identically equpped. Mine has done 20MPG highway (often), his Ford struggles to get 18MPG on nearly the same trip to our hunting camps (30 miles apart).

Stopped to make an appointment to get my double axle trailer inspected today. The owner's son has a 2008 GMC 1500 4x4 with 5.3L engine. He says he's getting close to 21MPG, back and forth from south central PA to the Delaware shore. That one has the new fuel management system on it, mine doesn't.

Concerning diesels, my Dmax has been excellent, and I have modded it to the tune of 500ish RWHP and 1000ish ft lbs of torque. The Dmax is a significantly better engine than 6.0 PSD. Of course, the head of the class has always been the 5.9 CTD, though the DMax holds its own. I haven't heard much about the 6.4 PSD or the 6.7 Cummins, other than the 6.7 doesn't get as good of mileage as the 5.9, and though the 6.4 PSD is better than the 6.0, it doesn't seem to be as good as the Dmax.

Of course, for every generalization there is an opposing view out there. I see those opposing views all the time in my rear view mirror......

I'll agree with you that the duramax is a good motor. Im just saying that up until our warrenty expired, we never had to wash it because they do that when you drop it off at the shop.

I do like the way the fords drive though. Guess they feel more like a truck to me (theres my biased opinion)

The 5.3 getting 20mpg? I wish ours was doing that. Were getting about 10mpg. Of course somebody decided a good idea was to put that motor in a c3500. Course what we do with it doesnt help

I have never liked how Fords drive. Dang things seem to wander all over the road compared to a Chevy. I think that is becasue of the lack of a center "dead spot" in the steering

They do tend to wander a lil. The chevy is tight and it rides soooo smooth. Still cant warm up to it though.

On a side note though, my ranger has very tight steering and it doessnt wander at all. My 87BroncoII was the same way.

Now that you emntion it, the Rangers do drive well enough, but they seem lacking in power compared to an S-10. I recented test drove a couple Rangers and an S-10 of the 2002-2003 vintage. Given they were within 10HP of each other, it must be gearing in the Chevy was lower.

Havnt drove the S-10's. My 99 ranger has the 4.0-OHV and 4.10's unfortunantly its got an automatic in it but oh well. Seems to rock along pretty well, and is still impressing me.

I'm looking into a programmer for it though. Its just hard to leave things alone. Im sure you know what I mean by that.

LOL!!! Next time you are in Roseburg I'll take you for a ride.............

LOL I'll take ya up on that one of these days.

You ever swing into that lil gunshop called Flying Cloud Trading CO?

I forget the name of the road, but off the southern exit y go across the bridge an hang a right. Its down by the warehouses that are by the RR tracks?

Toyota!

88 4Runner......still zinging along.. just short of half a million miles on it... 490,000 plus...

2200 RE... it isn't a dragster, but it gets there, gets great mileage and is reliable as hell...

I try to stay away from that part of town... The best gunshop is Roseburg Gun Shop on Diamand Lake Hwy. There is also an excellent Pawn Shop called Associated Buyers just north of Diamon lake HWY on Stephens.

I don't know if even that is enough understatement.....

It is kinda a sketchy area. He does alot of supplying for the cops. An uncle of mine ownes/operates it.

By the way Blaine, the ranger spanked a chevy last night. He was game though an I think he would caught me once my govenor kicked in (really need that prgrammer)

My better half bought a new '91 S-10 4x4 4.3L w/5spd, wanted to swap it on a new '94 Ranger, until she test drove one. Made me go along and drive it, to see what I thought. 4.0L w/5spd. Ranger was a major doogggg. Salesmen kept pointing out there was only about 10HP difference, told him I could read pretty good too. She wound up ordering a new GMC Sonoma ext. cab 4x4 with 4.3L and 5spd.

Have driven 4.0L Rangers and S-10 variants, had a 2002 ZR-2 S-10 myself for four years. No comparison in performance: 4.3L wins hands-down.

Funny you guys mentioned ride in the Ford vs GM discussion. Friend of mine had several Ford 250 Powerstroke 4x4s over the years, last year showed up in a new crew cab Chevy Duramax 2500 4x4 that replaced his similar Ford crew cab. Said the Chevy dealer made him a much better offer and his daddy had switched to a new Chevy Duramax, the year before.

Only complaint he has about the Chevy, is that his employees think they had more leg room in the back of his Fords. They travel alot to jobs, were used to hitchin' a ride with the boss. He told 'em to start driving their own trucks if they didn't like the back seat. None have so far.

He also thinks his Chevy handles and rides much better than his Fords did, no complaints on power or fuel economy either. Generally hauls a double axle enclosed trailer full of tools and equipment, several hundred miles per week.

The D'max and Allison may be a good combo but at 130k my truck is at the stealer again. As of today I have put more tie rods, U joints and wheel bearings in this truck than every other vehicle I have ever owned combined.
Then there's the holes worn through the leather seats.
Chances are pretty slim I will be buying GM in the future.

There it is, a glimpse of the truth.

or at least what matches up best with my experience.

The original question was about a high mileage truck, 1/2 ton in a fairly late model year.

Why, why, why are you only asking about the engines? If I could just drive the chevy engine & the damn engine alone down the road like a motorcycle I'd buy the chevy.

The problem is that awesome chavy engine comes with all this other crap, tie rod ends, ball joints, wheel bearings transfer cases, transmissions, front diff, rear diff etc.

Then the body that'll rust out over the rear wheels from the inside of the bed side panel, good luck keeping front tires on a high mile chev, rotate with every oil change if you want a chance.

The chev is gonna get 2 mpg better in most cases. So, drive both for 100,000 miles & the ford will cost you about $2500 more to do the 100,000 miles.


Now lets say we start both these used trucks at, 75,000 miles on the odometer. Now we add a 100,000 miles. The ford just cost you $2500 more in fuel to put on those 100,000 miles.

But in that 100,000 miles you won't be rebuilding the front end on the ford or replaceing the front diff, or the transmission or the wheel bearings or the rear diff & you aren't going to see rust over the rear wheels.

If it's engine & engine only that you are worried about, hell I'll take a chevy engine in my ford truck, that'd be just fine with me just so I don't have to have any of that other stuff that normally comes with the chev engine

Course the mpg of the chevy when placed in the ford is probably going to drop a bit cause the ford is just built heavier all the way around.

The chevy engine inside the chevy truck is the best part about the chevy truck.

That being said, stick a 5.4 ford in that chevy truck & the 5.4 becomes the best thing about the chevy truck.



As far as ride & handling, I'm at a total loss for words. I truly believe it is a matter of perspective based on what we have become used to.

chevy guy hops into a ford & it don't feel right, feels stiff, tight or what ever.

ford guy hops into a chevy & it don't feel right, he might actually stop the truck, get out & check to make sure everything is ok up front, all the steering linkage looks as if it's attached, lug nuts are tight, he gets back in & carefully drives it to where he has to go with it taking the shortest white knuckled route possible praying it doesn't break while he's driving it cause he dang sure don't want to pay for what ever it is that makes it feel like an old spring mattress riding on shopping cart wheels...



oh, I might have gone too far.



So, totally neutral here.

Both great trucks, in there own ways...


(flame suit on)

I can't say I really ever noticed any appreciable difference in fuel economy between the Fords and chevys I have owned. All have been 4x4 but some have been geared a lot different than others. The worst offender on that list is my wifes 1500 Ram with the Hemi. Stick yer foot in it and you can watch the fuel gauge drop. 14 mpg. OUCH! OTOH it sure is fun.

"Chevy owners become bitter and cling to there engines....."

oh I crack me up!!

I'll turn Democrat before I ever purchase another Chevy truck!

Wow! Not a single Chevy fan to defend the brand?!?!?!?

I guess you wer right NDave.

I just got back from the stealer. The bill I just paid would put a knot in any ones stuffing. I never had issues like this with Ford but then I've never seen leather seats with holes in them by 60k before and hear that it's "normal". Then there's the instrument clusters. I've been through three of them.

The elders have a word for that around here.

"oofda"

How are the power windows & locks holding up? I like the manual assist method I see with the chevy windows, it's neat. Push the button with left hand, lift upwards swiftly with right hand, hold on the button & withdraw hand quickly just before it's completely closed & hope it makes it that last 2 inches without help.

fuel pump?

gas engine chevy sho-nuff like them some fuel pump....

Do you ever get any anoying messages about servicing engine, check engine or that sort of thing? So often that you don't pay any attention anymore?

OK, I'll stop now, not nice... not nice dave, behave yo seff!!

Chevys typically run more fuel pressure, they won't start with less than 45 PSI or so in general. Fords don't run that much. It will mean a little fuel mileage. Chevy's also run taller gearing in general, not a lot, but some 3.49 v. 3.55 for example K1500 to F150, again a little bit of fuel mileage. The gear ratios in the trannys to are set up different. Ford always leans twords doing work as oposed to acceleration or fuel mileage. Chevys also tend to be a smidge lighter again a bit more mileage.

Chevy's tend to have lower payloads-softer springs thus the ride difference and that's across the board S10 to K3500.

I am getting more and more down on my 2004 chevy suburban. Leather cracking in places and wearing thin in others, instrument knob paint worn through, and I have a box of plastic parts that have fallen off or busted off the interior. Now my toyota tundra on the other hand is 2 years older and the interior is the same as the day I bought it, harder use on that truck too. Chevy Suburban is a pavment queen for the most part, although with the wife hauling the kids around in it there has been some torture testing! The 5.3 engine and drive train seems reliable, not more so than the tundra, but acceptable.

ok here is a man of both trucks. I had a 2000 F150/5.4l auto for 6 years. I've been a ford man all my life. had brief toyota moment for about 6 mths but then bought the 2000 f150.

In those 6 years I replaced:
3 ball joints
an azz load of heating/cooling/radiator parts
at 70,000 mi the engine developed lifter noise at start up
a vaccume leak nobody could find (and a lot tried)

and last but not least 2 rear ends... yes two of probably the best rear ends ever made.

I now have an 04 tahoe with a 5.3/auto

that being said, this will probably be my last chevy.

There are more rattles in this thing than there are parts, the steering feels like something is always going to fall off, I could rebuild the motor by the time the windows rolled up,the gas milage is no different than a Ford, the torque is lacking, and if I get one more "service tire moniter" or "buckle passanger" warning when they have their seat belt on, I'm goig to drive into a birde inbankmen and let the sob burn.

I'll take a '79 F-150 any day over todays crap.

whew...now I feel better

atta boy, let it all out.

wow, your 2000 ford was rittled with problems. A buddy of mine has a 99 f-150 that he bought used. previous owner had cranked up the torion bars up front to gain front end ground clearance. It's cranked too high, he's the only other person I know of other than you that's replaced front end parts on there f150.


I've got a... 2001 currently with about 165k & so far so good. put new spark plugs in at about 150k, which has been my most costly repair/service so far.

I had a 97 f-150 that had the famous Windsor 5.4 knock on cold starts. But it never bothered the life of the engine & the piston slap knock would go away when the engine warmed up.

I've got a 77 F-150 4x4 at home too though, and if I could get modern gas mileage out of it, I'd drive it all the time. but 12 mpg is the best I can do with it & it's 3.50 gears, 3 speed AT with no overdrive

Put a modern 5.4/AOD in that old bugger & I'd be smiling like heck!!

ya know, I'll buy another Ford, but I was so pizzed. I won't buy a new one again though. I had new truck payment with all the problems of a used one. The new ones are sharp looking.

neighbor kid wreked the posi on his 01 but no other problems.

the tahoe runs good, but damn those rattles drive me nuts. it had 78,000 when I bought it, it'll turn 100,000 on my way to work tomorrow.

Dave I'm just waitin for the front end on my 99 ranger to start loosing parts. Previous owners had installed a 3" body lift and cranked the Torsion bars way up. Looks and runs pretty good with 33x12.50's though

When I got it, it was a certified mall rat. Its whole outlook on life changed when I drove it off the lot

I'll run it until I have the cash for a suspension lift. Of course looking at the price of lift kits for that lil ranger has me wondering about Slapping a Dana 44 under the front an callin it good.

Oh yea, manual locks an windows baby!!!!!!! No more issues with mud clogging up the window track.

The steering and wheels bearings are weak points on the Dmaxes. Unfortunately Dodge and Ford have decided to emulate GM's front wheel bearings, and the Fords have at least as many problems. I don't know about Dodges becasue they didn't give in to the lunacy of this wheel bearing design until recently.

I wish I had known you were having issues sooner because I could have steered (pun intended ) you in a better direction.

I replaced my Pittman and idler at around 60K (in my garage) and installed Cognito Pittman and idler braces. That ends the issue with worn out Pittmans and idlers. BTW, GM will tell you your Pittman and idler are okay even when there is excessive play in them.

I also installed tie rod sleeves and poly bushings in the a-arms. My truck steers like a sports car and actually holds a toe setting.

The wheel bearings are the only weak point left. I am hoping the aftermarket will offer a fix, but at least I can get them for under $150 each nowadays and they only take about an hour per side to replace. When I ran 295s and 315s on 16x8s, the WBs would last 30K. I am hoping with my 285s they will last longer.

I haven't had any issues with u-joints.

I got 2 surprises the other day Blaine. The first was when I was replacing the brake pads on the ranger. I got to lookin and couldnt see any grease zerks. Looked like a whole lotta non greasable areas that should be greased. Goona have to look into that.

Also managed to find a doe and a yearling at about 60mph. Managed to miss the doe but hit the yearling square on with the drivers side tire. One hell of a bumpity bump and the side of the truk was covered in hair blood and chewed up grass. But other n that no damage was done ( +1 for lifted trucks). I was pretty concerned about the aligntment but so far it all feels fine.

I looked at replacing the wheel bearing myself but it was only about $200 less and it would have taken me a lot more than an hour. The upside is that by doing it at the stealer they now have a life time warranty.
Only getting 30k on a wheel bearing is ridiculous. I see others that only get 50k. I guess by that standard I'm doing pretty good. At 175k I'm letting the D'max go.
I had Dmaxalli tech from the diesel place inspect my pitman and idler arm at around 80k and he said the same thing.

The tend is to go greaseless, and while that is probably less MX for the warranty period, I think it's limits the true longevitiy of a vehicle.

I think 50K is a common WB life for stock size tires.

Eric is one of my go to guys for DMax stuff. The other is John Kenendy.

Think it would be worth trying to install some zerks?

I'm starting to think that a SAS would fix a whole lotta lil issues like this one.

I don't know how successful that would be unless there is alreay a spot drilled and tapped for one. I would just be sure that when I did have to replace ball joints to sue ones with zerks........

yeah that's really about all you can do.

Get a decent set of greaseables if/when you replace those joints.

it's really nothing all that new Bogger.

If I remember correctly there are non greasable joints even on my old 77 F150. I'm thinking the front axle end joints on my dana are non greasable.

Still originals too, and still tight. not bad for a 31 year old truck.

our 98 f250s 5.4 triton has 273,000 on it now. A couple coils around 200,000miles, a waterpump @ 269,000 miles. Nothing major at all.

Runs like new, doesnt smoke, doesnt use oil. Been a great motor. The tranny hasnt needed jacket squat either.

My isuzu rodeo has the same deal. Sealed front end. The only area i can grease is the U joint at the tranny end.

No biggie, everything is in great shape so no reason to mess with it.