Has anybody else tackled these?

Owners manual says 30,000 mile replace them, and I'm at about 43,000 now. I got 16 of the OEM plugs, and started in on it tonight. Book says gap ought to be .043" and the first 2 I pulled were only .045". Not all black and sooty, some red deposite stuff, but not bad looking plugs at all.

I'm wondering do I need to pull all 16 and check for wear? Or will all the cylinders burn their plugs at the same rate? It's going to be a real PITA to get to all of them. Was 7 degrees out and I got the wood stove cranking and had the shop up to 25 and was already to settle in for a night of cussing and busting knuckles, but figured I'd stop and come in and check with the experts on here.

Jason

FWIW it's a '12 2500.

They should all be the same. If they're not, you have another problem like a leaking head gasket, bad injector, or something.
If the vehicle was older, since I was going to all that trouble, I'd get a compression gauge and check each cylinder as I went.

I have 181K on my Frontier and I have never taken a plug out, the 275hp 4.0 still gets 19.5 in town and 22 on the highway and I drive the biatch like I hate it.

Personally I would not pull the plugs for another 40K minimum.

Read an article linked on Facebook yesterday about Car and Driver's Dodge Dart long-term test vehicle. The factory recommended replacing the iridium plugs at 37,000 miles. They ended up paying the dealership a little over $43 apiece for the plugs and the total service bill was almost $500. What the hell is Chrysler thinking these days?

I have a 4.0 liter V-6 4WD Tacoma with 233,000+ miles on the odometer and have changed the plugs once (at 150,000 miles). Performance and fuel mileage remain the same as they were with 10,000 miles on the odometer.

Well, I was concerned I'd negate my warranty if I didn't do it. I've been reading a bunch about them, and from what I can tell they supposedly run better on the copper core plugs, hence the 30,000 mile change. As opposed to for example my 06 Chevy that had a recommended interval of 100,000 with the OEM iridium plugs.

The truck is running good, just trying to stay current on it with services etc. Only new vehicle I've ever had.

Mudhen, the dealer in town quoted me north of $300 to change the plugs, I'm not paying that. The dealer also quoted me something ridiculous just for the plugs. Looked the the manual, did some poking on line, and I got the same NGK plugs that came from the factory for $70 something bucks for 16 of them at Oreilly's. But they're not platinum or iridium plugs either.

I don't know if it's just something unique to these motors they're supposed to eat plugs that fast? But it looks like I'm putting the coil back on those 2 plugs and buttoning it up for awhile before taking it on again.

Put it off 'til dave needs to return a favor...

Your ignition system was designed for the standard plugs, use what is original and replace at the recommended time. 30,000 miles. There are many vehicles with plugs designed for 100,000 plus miles, but you don't want those plugs in a vehicle designed for standard plugs, it will cause drivability issues.

I would replace them but I would wait for warmer weather.

I just replaced the plugs for the first time on my 2006 Silverado (4.8 V8) at 140,000 miles (yes, I waited a little long). I expected trouble getting them out. Nope, no problem. I expected them to look awful. Honestly, if you'd told me they had just 40k on them, I would have believed it.

Changing plugs every 30k miles??? I thought that went the way of carburetors and cassette decks.....

For whatever reason this motor is supposed to run better on the copper cored ones.

For what I paid for the damn thing I'd better keep up with the little stuff. Going to make a run at it tonight.

He'd crossthread one on purpose.

Just threaten him with pulling the red cord. That oughtta keep him in line.

Well 5+ hours later I got 'er done. Holy balls what a PITA.

I have 255,000 miles on my Ram 2500 CTD and have never changed the plugs. Lately I have noticed that when I really get down on it, it has black smoke coming from the exhaust. Could that be my problem?

Tim

I looked and looked and couldn't find my spark plug wires, much less the plugs themselves in my Cummins either? WTF??? Damn thing smokes when I get on it as well

I don't think you guys are running enough sugar in your fuel by the sounds of it.

I don't want an obese truck.

How far into it did you start thinking the $300+ at the dealer wasn't sounding too bad?

Use premium and it won't smoke as much.

At about hour 3. In all seriousness it wasn't as bad as I had feared. But to do over I'd start at the firewall and work my way out. The driver's side had the brake system in the way, but there was enough room to move my hands around at least. Though you have to do it a piece at a time. Socket, then extension, then knuckle, then ratchet. The passenger side furthest to the cab was the worst with coolant hoses in the way. The absolute biggest PITA were the plastic clips that fasten the wires to the coils.

No codes popped up when I fired her up, the next week will see a couple hundred miles on them. Hoping to squeeze a little more mpgs.......

Gruff, What are getting for mpgs with the Power Wagon?

Depends on the day. If it's warm, no wind, and I keep it around 55-60 I've seen 14 quite a bit. But that's a rarity.

Typically if I don't let it idle too long in warm ups and I keep out of the gas pedal, I can average around 13. But I rarely drive that speed for any distance so I'm around 12.

Ate the factory BFG's in 18,000, the Cooper ST Maxx's I put on after are almost toast, so far they've lasted 25,000. I'll probably try and squeeze another 5,000 from them and try the Nitto's.

The ball joints, drag link, and steering box all needed replaced. That God for warranty and extended service plans.

All in all, still glad I got it. Best truck I've ever had or driven.

Just a heads up, on some cars and trucks you can jack them up, pull the front wheels and get to the plugs a hellava lot easier.

They should require automotive engineers to actually work on their monstrosities before they can sell them. Maybe they'd learn to design a car that can be worked on. A friend had an Aerostar van with a V6. The Ford shop here told him that the only way to change the left rear plug was to pull the engine.
Years ago, I was in the market for a small pickup like a Datsun, Hilux, etc. Ford had just started carrying the Mazda & looked at one. I couldn't see any way to get at the oil filter. It was under the engine and on top of the suspension A-frame. I could see it but I don't think I could have got a hand in there to get at it without removing a bunch of stuff.

Well, you made about $40 on the job so I guess you did O.K. depending on what else you would have been doing with your time.

I'd read on a forum where some guys recommended pulling the (whatever it's called) from the inside of the wheel well for access. In my case it woulnd't have helped any.

I hope that wasn't to me. I saved a hell of a lot more than $40 doing it myself.

Woops, that was a typo. I meant to say $40 an hour. That better?

On my Dodge, I can change either the the fuel or oil filter in 1/2 the time by pulling the wheel well liner. A battery drill with a nut driver has it out in a couple of minutes.

Ha, yeah that makes more sense.

Didn't you take a train out with your son to pick it up and drive back? If so, the memory of that alone would make me want to keep it forever. Those Power Wagons are fantastic trucks!

Yup, that truck is pretty special to me and the boy. Matter of fact he was there with me the whole time helping with the plugs. Damn handy have him around to grab tools that kept slipping out of my fingers and falling through to the ground. Quick eyes too to see things I missed.

Did the spark plugs come with parking instructions by chance?



Travis

Thanks, Sounds like it is a little better than the gas hog 6.0L Chev. Around 9-10 mpg winter, 11-12 mpg summer, 14 mpg on the road 55-60.

I put Hankook Dynapro ATM's on about 10,000 miles ago and they seem to be a good tire so far.

30k plug change, on modern ignition?

Not on a bet. I won't even check them before 75-80k.